Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags (6 page)

a. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark these dimensions directly onto the
Right
side of a single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.

From the first exterior print fabric

For the x-small bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long

For the small bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 9″ (22.9 cm) wide × 6½″ (16.5 cm) long

For the large bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 11″ (27.9 cm) wide × 9½″ (24.1 cm) long

From the first coordinating exterior print fabric

For the x-small bag:
Cut 2 panel B’s: 4″ (10.2 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long and cut 1 tab: 2½″ (6.4 cm) wide × 2″ (5.1 cm) long

For the small bag:
Cut 2 panel B’s: 5½″ (14 cm) wide × 6½″ (16.5 cm) long and cut 1 tab: 2½″ (6.4 cm) wide × 2½″ (6.4 cm) long

For the large bag:
Cut 2 panel B’s: 7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 9½″ (24.1 cm) long and cut 1 tab: 2½″ (6.4 cm) wide × 3″ (7.6 cm) long

From the second exterior print fabric

For the mini bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 5¾″ (14.6 cm) long

For the medium bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 10″ (25.4 cm) wide × 8″ (20.3 cm) long

For the x-large bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 12″ (30.5 cm) wide × 10¾″ (27.3 cm) long

From the second coordinating exterior print fabric

For the mini bag:
Cut 2 panel B’s: 4½″ (11.4 cm) wide × 5¾″ (14.6 cm) long and cut 1 tab: 2½ (6.4 cm) wide × 2½″ (6.4 cm) long

For the medium bag:
Cut 2 panel B’s: 6″ (15.2 cm) wide × 8″ (20.3 cm) long and cut 1 tab: 2½″ (6.4 cm) wide × 3″ (7.6 cm) long

For the x-large bag:
Cut 2 panel B’s: 7½″ (19.1 cm) wide × 10¾ (27.3 cm) long and cut 1 tab: 2½″ (6.4 cm) wide × 3″ (7.6 cm) long

From the lining fabric

For the x-small bag:
Cut 2 panels: 10″ (25.4 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7cm) long

For the mini bag:
Cut 2 panels: 11½″ (29.2 cm) wide × 5¾″ (14.6 cm) long

For the small bag:
Cut 2 panels: 13½″ (34.3 cm) wide × 6½″ (16.5 cm) long

For the medium bag:
Cut 2 panels: 15″ (38.1 cm) wide × 8″ (20.3 cm) long

For the large bag:
Cut 2 panels: 17½″ (44.5 cm) wide × 9½″ (24.1 cm) long

For the x-large bag:
Cut 2 panels: 18½″ (47 cm) wide × 10¾″ (27.3 cm) long

From the fusible interfacing

For the x-small bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long and cut 2 panel B’s: 4″ (10.2 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long

For the mini bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 5¾″ (14.6 cm) long and cut 2 panel B’s: 4½″ (11.4 cm) wide × 5¾″ (14.6 cm) long

For the small bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 9″ (22.9 cm) wide × 6½″ (16.5 cm) long and cut 2 panel B’s: 5½″ (14 cm) wide × 6½″ (16.5 cm) long

For the medium bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 10″ (25.4 cm) wide × 8″ (20.3 cm) long and cut 2 panel B’s: 6″ (15.2 cm) wide × 8″ (20.3 cm) long

For the large bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 11″ (27.9 cm) wide × 9½″ (24.1 cm) long and cut 2 panel B’s: 7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 9½″ (24.1 cm) long

For the x-large bag:
Cut 2 panel A’s: 12″ (30.5 cm) wide × 10¾″ (27.3 cm) long and cut 2 panel B’s: 7½″ (19.1 cm) wide × 10¾″ (27.3 cm) long

2
APPLY FUSIBLE INTERFACING TO THE EXTERIOR PANELS.
Note:
See page 172
for interfacing application tips.

a. Place the
Wrong
side of each exterior panel A and B onto the fusible side of the corresponding interfacing piece. Using a damp pressing cloth*, fuse the interfacing in place. Turn the panels over and press them again, making sure there are no puckers.

3
ATTACH PANELS A AND B TOGETHER.
Note: If you are using a directional print, organize your panels in the following manner to ensure that the seams on both sides of the bag line up. Place panel A + panel B next to each other for one side, and panel B + panel A for the other.

a. Place one panel A and one panel B
Right
sides together, matching the following raw edges for the size bag you are making.

• X-small: 5″ (12.7 cm) edges

• Mini: 5¾″ (14.6 cm) edges

• Small: 6½″ (16.5 cm) edges

• Medium: 8″ (20.3 cm) edges

• Large: 9½″ (24.1 cm) edges

• X-large: 10¾″ (27.3 cm) edges

Pin along the matched edges.

b. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam along the pinned edge. Backstitch* at each end. Press the seam allowance* open.

c. On the
Right
side of the panels, topstitch* ¼″ (0.6 cm) on each side of the seam.

d. Repeat steps 3a through 3c to attach the second panel A and B together. Each attached panel A/B will now be referred to as an exterior panel.

4
INSTALL THE ZIPPER.

a. Place the zipper face down onto the
Right
side of the first exterior panel with the zipper head ½″ (1.3 cm) from the side raw edge of panel A. Place the long edge of the zipper tape ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the top edge of the panel and pin it in place.

b. Using the zipper foot for your machine, stitch ⅛ (0.3 cm) from the zipper coils, starting and stopping ½ (1.3 cm) in from each side edge of the exterior panel. Backstitch at each end.

Figure 1

c. Place the first lining panel
Right
sides together with the first exterior panel, sandwiching the zipper in between. Pin them in place along the top edges of the matched panels.

d. With the
interfaced
side of the exterior panel facing up, sew over the stitching that attached the zipper, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge. Backstitch at each end.

Figure 2

e. Flip the lining over the zipper, matching the
Wrong
sides of the lining and the exterior panels. Pin them together. Press the panels away from the zipper, pressing under the ½″ (1.3 cm) unstitched fabric at each end.

f. On the
Right
side of the exterior panel, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge, topstitch ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the seam that attached the zipper. Backstitch at each end.

Figure 3

g. Repeat steps 4a through 4f to attach the second exterior and lining panels to the other side of the zipper. Be careful not to twist the zipper.
Note: On the exterior panels, make sure to line up the seams that attach panels A and B. Position the panels across from each other.

h. With the exterior panels facing up, lay the panels on a flat surface, spreading each set of exterior and lining panels away from the zipper. Measure ½″ (1.3 cm) in from the side edges along the bottom of the zipper and make a mark on the zipper coils. Bar tack* over the coils to make a new zipper stop.

i. Trim the excess zipper, leaving a 1″ (2.5 cm) tail beyond the new zipper stop. Open the zipper.

5
MAKE AND ATTACH THE TAB TO ONE EXTERIOR MAIN PANEL.

a. Fold the tab in half lengthwise, with
Wrong
sides together, and press a crease along the folded edge.

b. Open the tab and fold each long edge in to meet the center crease, and press.

c. Fold the tab in half again at the center crease to enclose the raw edges, and press. Pin the folded edges.

d. Edge stitch* down each of the folded edges and backstitch at each end.

e. Fold the tab in half, matching the short ends, and pin.

f. On the
Right
side of one of the exterior panels, measure and mark 1″ (2.5 cm) down along the side edge where the top of the zipper is located.

g. Place the pinned ends of the tab even with the side edge of the exterior panel below the mark and pin in place. Machine baste* a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam to secure the tab.

6
ATTACH THE EXTERIOR AND LINING PANELS.
Note: Leave the zipper halfway open for this step so you can turn the bag
Right
side out.

a. Separate the exterior from the lining panels. To keep the lining out of your way while you stitch the exterior panels, place the lining panels
Right
sides together, matching the raw edges, and pin them in place. Then fold the unstitched edges at the top of the lining panels in toward the center of the panel, and pin.

b. Place the exterior panels
Right
sides together, matching both the raw and the unstitched edges. Pin them in place. Starting and stopping at the top folded edge on each end of the zipper, stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down both sides and across the bottom edges. Backstitch at each end.

Figure 4

c. Trim* all four corners in the seam allowance, being careful not to clip your stitching. Press the seam allowances open.

d. Unpin the lining panels at each end of the zipper. Match the edges,
Right
sides together, and pin them in place. Starting and stopping just under the zipper coils, stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down both sides and across the bottom edges. Leave a 4″ (10.2 cm) opening centered on the bottom edge for turning the bag
Right
side out. Backstitch at each end.

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