An Armchair Traveller's History of Apulia (44 page)

San Giovanni Rotondo

Most people who come to this town do so to visit the tomb of Padre Pio but it is worthwhile wandering round the old part with its gateways, churches and sixteenth and seventeenth century palaces. Such is the fervour of devotion to Padre Pio that another new church had to be built to accommodate the thousands of pilgrims who visit the city. This is next to the one over his tomb, was consecrated in 2004 and is capable of holding more than 7000 people; it is one of the largest and most modern in Italy and was founded almost entirely by contributions from the pilgrims.

San Vito dei Normanni

The area was inhabited since at least the Bronze Age but the modern settlement dates from the tenth century AD when it was founded by a colony of Slavs from Croatia. Bohemond d’Hauteville built the fortress as a hunting lodge; it is now the
Comune
where one can obtain the key to the rupestrian
Church of San Biagio
with its wonderful Byzantine frescoes. The town passed from the Hautevilles to the Sambiase then to Raimondo del Balzo Orsini. The church of the
Madonna della Vittoria
was built to commemorate the participation of many of the inhabitants at the Battle of Lepanto. Like many Apulian cities it was greatly increased in size under Mussolini and again in the late twentieth century making it difficult to reach the old part – and making parking a nightmare.

Tàranto

One of the most important centres in Magna Graecia, traditionally founded in 706 BC. The
archeological museum
has amongst other things stunning gold jewellery found in tombs in the surrounding area. Also of note are the
Cathedral
and the
Old Town
, the
Fortezza di Laclos
and the
Castello Aragonese
built originally by the Byzantines for protection against the Saracens and Venetians and greatly altered by Ferdinando II d’Aragona in 1486. It is one of the most polluted cities in Puglia, however, and not a place to linger, nor is there much to see in the way of Greek remains – a couple of columns from a temple here, a grave there – and the rupestrian
Cripta del Redentore
with good frescoes dating from the twelfth century is now closed for restoration.

Trani

Of all the coastal cities in the Terra di Bari Trani is probably the most attractive place to stay; the old part is less shabby than that of Bisceglie or Molfetta, the port beautiful and there is more to see than at Barletta. The origins of Trani really only date from the the ninth century AD when the seat of the episcopal See was transfered from Canosa to Trani after Canosa was sacked by the Saracens in 813. The fishing port expanded and became important during the Crusades and the
cathedral
dedicated to St Nicolas the Pilgrim was founded in 1097. The bronze doors made by Barisanus of Trani in 1175 are outstanding. From the same period dates the Templars’
Chiesa di Ognissanti
. Frederick II had the greatest influence on Trani’s prosperity, building the walls and
castle
and granting privileges to Jews and Florentines who traded with the East. There are still two synagogues – the
Scolanova
restored to the Jewish rite and that which became the
Church of St Anna
but is now a museum. The city declined during the Aragonese period with the expulsion of the Jews but recovered under the Bourbons and now the Jews have returned and form one of the largest communities in Italy.

Troia

An attractive city on the top of a hill in the predominately agricultural area south west of Foggia. According to legend founded by Diomede in the twelfth century BC. The earliest archeological evidence points to a much later date but it was a Daunian centre and taken by Hannibal after the battle of Cannae. The present city began to be built round a fortress, after the town had been besieged and sacked by the Saracens, in 1019. The
Romanesque cathedral
with two rose-windows and outstanding bronze doors by Odisirio da Benevento was built by the Normans in the twelfth century using material from the Byzantine church and the Roman city. Pope Urban II held the first Council of Troia in 1093 followed by three more – the last in 1127. Owing to its allegiance to the papacy, it was besieged by the Hohenstaufen emperors Henry II and Frederick II. The city sided with the Angevines, the Aragons and then the Bourbons.

Vieste

Vieste was inhabited from paleolithic times later becoming a Greek colony and a Roman municipality. During the Middle Ages, be-cause of its strategic position on the tip of the Gargano, it was fought over by the Byzantines, Normans, Lombards, Venetians and Arabs. The castle was built by Frederick II in 1240 and later strengthened with bastions and ramparts but was seriously damaged in 1648 by an earthquake. It was attacked by the Turks in 1480, 1554, 1674 and 1678. During the
Risorgimento
many died in violent clashes between supporters of the Bourbons and supporters of the Unification. Now it is a popular sea-side resort with a lovely beach.

Venosa (now in Basilicata)

A Roman colony and birthplace of Horace it has evidence of its origins in the stones used to build the
Church of the Santissima Trinità
, many of which come from the Roman city around it. This church built by the Normans and consecrated in 1059 was later given to the Benedictines who began to enlarge it on a vast scale, but had only reached the arches, when they were banished by Pope Boniface VIII in 1297. The Order of Malta to whom it was given established themselves in the city and the building was never finished – hence its modern name of
La Chiesa Incompiuta
(The unfinished church). Next to the church is the Archeological Park with remains of the second century AD Roman amphitheatre, a fine mosaic pavement and Roman and medieval buildings. There are two medieval fountains from the Middle Ages – The
Fontana Angioina
erected by Charles of Anjou in 1298 and the
Fontana di Messer Oto
erected in honour of Roger of Anjou. Pirro del Balzo’s castle in the centre of Venosa was converted from a fortress into an elegant residence by the composer Gesualdo and is now the Archeological Museum. Below the city the
Jewish and Christian catacombs
lie side by side and date from the fourth to sixth centuries.