How to Cook Indian (2 page)

Authors: Sanjeev Kapoor

Green chiles:
Fresh green chiles are used extensively in Indian cooking, either whole, split, minced, or puréed with other ingredients depending on, aside from textural considerations, the amount of heat desired: Whole chiles lend their flavor without imparting too much heat to a curry, for example. The best substitute for the long, slender Indian green chiles are serranos, which are about the size and thickness of your finger, medium-dark green, and a bit hotter than jalapeños. To store chiles, pull off and discard the stems, rinse them, then pat them dry (or let them sit on a sunny countertop on a clean towel to air-dry for an hour or so), wrap in paper towels, and store in an open plastic bag in the refrigerator; they’ll keep for several weeks. Alternatively, store them whole or minced in the freezer for several months, thawing only as many as you need at a time.

Red chiles:
In this book, where red chile powder is indicated, a powder made from a milder variety like Kashmiri red chiles is my preferred chile type, though New Mexico chiles, or even paprika, can be used as a substitute. The quantity can be adjusted to taste. Many different varieties of dried chiles are sold in Indian grocery stores; check the package label or ask the store’s proprietor for guidance. In some recipes I indicate that the very mild and deep-red Kashmiri red chile powder is most appropriate, and in some cases
deghi mirch,
which is very similar to Hungarian paprika, is best; in these dishes you could use paprika instead, but don’t be tempted to substitute cayenne, which would be far too hot. Note, too, that U.S. “chili powder” (with an “i”) is a mixture of different spices and herbs for making chili, and should not be used for these recipes. When whole dried red chiles are called for, the thin, finger-length hot cayenne peppers (or a milder type) can be used.

Rice:
Fragrant, long-grained basmati rice is generally used in India for special occasions and to make biryanis. There are many other types of rice, including jasmine and short-grain rice and parboiled rice, available at Indian grocers and regular supermarkets. Indian markets sell basmati rices at different price points depending on the length of the grains, the percentage of broken grains, and overall quality. For more variety, stock brown basmati rice in your pantry as well—it’s becoming more available in regular supermarkets.

Spices:
Indian cooking relies on spices in a way unlike any other world cuisine, and staring down a typically long ingredient list can be intimidating if you are just starting to learn to cook Indian. However, once you have the basic spices, the recipes become infinitely more manageable. Whole spices, and many preground spices, will keep for ages in airtight containers in a dark cupboard (claims that they’ll lose all potency after a mere twelve months to the contrary). A convenient way to store your most-used spices is in a
masala dhabba,
a round stainless-steel container with seven smaller compartments for different spices. The best models will have two lids, one of them very tight-fitting to keep the spices from mingling. When you begin to cook, simply pull the whole container from the cupboard and spoon out the spices you need. To start, I’d recommend filling a
masala dhabba
with ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric, whole mustard
seeds, whole cumin seeds, whole green cardamom, and ground
garam masala.

Tamarind:
Tamarind is available in several different forms: as whole ripe pods, which you can shell, soak, and push through a sieve to remove the seeds and fibers; as blocks of stiff tamarind pulp, which also need to be soaked and strained; and as tamarind concentrate, sold in squat plastic jars. If you’re using concentrate rather than the reconstituted pulp, reduce the amount in the recipe by half.

Vegetable oil:
Any kind of vegetable oil will do for most of these recipes—peanut and mustard oils are traditional in different regions (see page 589 for more about choosing an edible mustard oil), but canola or safflower or a blend of oils can also be used.

Yogurt:
Plain yogurt is a very common ingredient in this book and is useful to have on hand—it keeps for weeks in the refrigerator. Use full-fat varieties, if possible.

E
VERYDAY
T
OOLS AND
K
ITCHENWARES

You don’t need a vast arsenal of special kitchen equipment to make the recipes in this book. Here are the basics. (You’ll find a list of specialty equipment on page 591.)

Double boiler:
A double boiler is used to melt chocolate gently without burning or seizing, and to cook sauces or thick liquids that might burn if cooked over direct heat. It consists of an upper vessel (containing the food to be cooked) situated above a lower pot of water. When the water is heated, the steam produced transfers heat to the upper vessel. If you don’t have a double boiler, use a regular saucepan and set a heatproof metal or glass bowl on top of it; make sure the water in the saucepan does not touch the bottom of the bowl.

Griddle:
Making Indian griddle breads such as
roti
and
paratha
is easiest with a heavy cast-iron or nonstick Indian griddle, or
tawa,
which is either flat or slightly concave (for shallow frying), but a large cast-iron skillet will do in a pinch.

Mini food processor, blender, spice grinder:
Many households in India rely on an appliance called a “mixie” or “mixer-blender,” a combination food processor, blender, and wet-and-dry spice grinder for the various puréeing and grinding required in some recipes. A mini food processor, blender, and/or electric spice grinder can handle all of these tasks just as well—and there’s always the simple mortar and pestle for quickly grinding small batches of whole spices. If you’re short on space, you might consider using a regular countertop blender with a one-cup “food processor” jar attachment for blending batters and puréeing small quantities of wet ingredients (chiles, cilantro, ginger, and so on) for seasoning pastes, and a coffee grinder for spices.

Saucepans and soup pots:
Have a variety of saucepans and soup or stock pots ready for simmering small quantities of sauce components and larger batches of soups and
dal.

Sauté pans:
You’ll need a heavy nonstick or well-seasoned sauté pan or skillet for most of the curries in this book. A twelve-inch or larger one would be useful.

Steamer:
All-purpose Indian steamers are made of stainless steel with stacked trays that can be fit into grooves inside the main vessel; the lid is vented to allow some of the steam to escape. Food to be steamed is put on plates that are then set on top of the trays. A bamboo steamer will work for these recipes if you put the food on a plate before putting it in the steamer tray. For
idlis,
steamed rice cakes, you’ll need an
idli
stand to fit into a steamer pot (see page 591).

Tempering pan:
Many of the
dal
and curry recipes in this book feature a uniquely Indian final step: Tempering. A bit of vegetable oil or ghee is heated and various spices are added and cooked until they sputter and release their distinctive aromas. The mixture is then drizzled into the
dal
and the pot is covered and left to stand for a couple minutes while the sizzling oil and spices meld with the lentils and vegetables. An Indian tempering pan is a small cup-shaped pan with a rounded bottom and a long handle; a very small, heavy sauté pan or skillet is a fine substitute.

Utensils:
A
slotted spoon
or
wire skimmer
is used extensively throughout this book to stir and scoop frying foods out of hot oil.
Tongs
are used to turn griddled breads as they cook, lift pot lids, and gently transfer delicate ground-meat kabobs from skillet to serving plates—a
thin metal spatula
is helpful here as well. A
mortar and pestle
can be useful for grinding spices and making chutneys.
Muslin cloth
or
cheesecloth
is used to drain yogurt and fresh
paneer
cheese. A
fine-mesh sieve
and a good
colander
are handy for draining and straining as well.
Skewers
—either bamboo or metal, thin or wide and flat—are used to make kabobs.

Wok:
The
kadai,
or Indian wok, is a deep, flat-bottomed pan with curved sides and, usually, a looped handle on either side. It’s used for quick deep-frying and also for
dals
and curries. A nonstick or well-seasoned Chinese-style wok or even a wide, deep sauté pan or saucepan would work fine for most dishes.

Indian cooking is known for its use of spices and spice combinations (commonly called masalas). Our affinity with spices can be traced back to ancient times and is still a trademark of contemporary Indian cuisine. In my childhood days, there was always a flurry of activity with the advent of summer, when family and friends prepared various masalas and other preserves. Good-quality spices would be cleaned and sun-dried or roasted before being pounded in various combinations to create the variety of masalas to be used throughout the year.

Most masalas can be bought ready-made these days. But people who like to make their own masalas, or those for whom packaged masalas are not easily available, will find most of the basic recipes that are used widely in Indian cooking in this chapter. Be it
chholay masala
or
garam masala, dhansak masala
or
sambhar masala,
fresh garlic paste or fresh ginger paste, these are the go-to recipes for every home cook. I think you’ll find that these masalas are worth the preparation, and that they’re sure to please the most discerning palates.

Also in this chapter you’ll find recipes for the making of
roti, paratha, naan, appam,
and other favorites, which are key in rounding out these meals.

Almond Paste

Makes 3½ tablespoons.

15 almonds

1. Place a small nonstick saucepan over high heat and add ½ cup (100 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, add the almonds and remove from the heat.

2. Let the almonds soak in the hot water for 5 minutes. Drain and peel. Transfer to a spice grinder, add 2 tablespoons water, and grind to a smooth paste. Use immediately or store for up to a day, covered in the refrigerator.

Boiled-Onion Paste

Makes ¾ cup (190 grams).

3 medium onions, peeled and quartered

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 3 cups (600 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium, add the onions, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.