How to Cook Indian (82 page)

A few sprigs fresh mint

4 green chiles, stemmed and slit

3 lemons, cut into wedges

1. Put the
dals
in a large bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 3 cups (600 ml) water and soak for 2 hours. Drain and set aside.

2. Soak the
lapsi
in a separate bowl in 1½ cups (300 ml) water for 1 hour.

3. Wash and soak the rice in another bowl in 1 cup (200 ml) water for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

4. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes or until golden brown. Set aside.

5. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining 4 tablespoons oil. Add the cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon, and sauté until fragrant. Add the ginger paste and garlic paste, and sauté until the raw flavors disappear.

6. Add the lamb and sauté until browned. Add half of the sautéed onions and stir to combine. Add the salt, chile powder, and the drained
dals.
Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.

7. Add the
lapsi
and turmeric, and stir.

8. Add 5 cups (1 liter) water. Increase the heat to high, cover, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer for about 1 hour or until all the
dals,
the
lapsi,
and the lamb are completely cooked.

9. Add the rice and cook for 30 minutes. Continue stirring and adding up to 2 cups (400 ml) water as the mixture becomes dry.

10. When the rice is cooked, mash the mixture with the back of a ladle to make a porridgelike consistency.

11. Add the mint, cilantro, and lemon juice, and stir. Set the
khichra
aside.

12. Make the tempering: Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the ghee. When the ghee melts and small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, remove from the heat and add the chile powder and
garam masala.
Add this immediately to the
khichra
and cover the pan to trap the flavors. Let stand for about 5 minutes.

13. Stir and transfer to a serving dish. Garnish with the mint sprigs, the remaining sautéed onions, the chiles, and lemon wedges. Serve hot.

Kolhapuri Pandhra Rassa

Lamb-flavored curry

Kolhapur, an ancient city in southwest Maharashtra, boasts a bold and aromatic cuisine. Some of the most famous Kolhapuri dishes are meat preparations, including
sukka
lamb (page 378),
tambda rassa
(red lamb curry), and the recipe here.

Serves 4.

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

2 tablespoons white poppy seeds

¾ cup (90 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

2 medium red onions, quartered

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger

6 to 8 cloves garlic

¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick

4 or 5 green cardamom pods

1 black cardamom pod

5 or 6 whole cloves

1 blade mace

2 bay leaves

2 green chiles, stemmed and slit

5 cups (1 liter) lamb stock (page 35)

1 teaspoon table salt

1 tablespoon ground white pepper

A few sprigs fresh cilantro, finely chopped

1. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the sesame seeds and dry-roast for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside to cool.

2. Put the poppy seeds in a small bowl, add ¼ cup (50 ml) warm water, and soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve.

3. Place a small nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add ½ cup (100 ml) water. Add the roasted sesame seeds and the soaked poppy seeds. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve and set aside to cool. Transfer to a food processor. Add the coconut and 5 tablespoons (75 ml) water, and process to a fine paste. Transfer the paste to a small bowl and set aside.

4. Place a deep nonstick saucepan over medium heat, add 1 cup (200 ml) water, and bring to a boil. Add the onions and boil for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain in a colander, transfer to a spice grinder, and grind to a fine paste. Transfer the paste to a small bowl and set aside.

5. Put the ginger and garlic and 1 tablespoon water in a spice grinder, and grind to a fine paste. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

6. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the nutmeg, cinnamon, green cardamom, black cardamom, cloves, mace, and bay leaves. Sauté for 1 minute.

7. When the spices change color and are fragrant, add the onion paste and sauté over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 5 to 6 minutes or until most of the moisture has evaporated but the onions are not browned.

8. Add the ginger-garlic paste and green chiles, and cook for 30 seconds. Add the sesame poppy seed–coconut paste and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring continuously.

9. Add the stock and increase the heat to high. When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir the white pepper into 1 tablespoon water and add it to the pan. Add the salt and stir well. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.

10. Garnish with the cilantro and serve hot.

Kolhapuri Sukka Lamb

Spicy coconut lamb

Most lamb dishes from the city of Kolhapur, in the Indian state of Maharashtra, lean heavily toward the fiery end of the heat spectrum. They mostly use
sankeshwari
chiles or
lavangi
chiles, which have quite a bite. However, if you cannot lay your hands on either of those varieties, use any red chile powder. Here we have used
bedgi
chile powder, which is slightly less spicy than cayenne but lends a beautiful red color to the dish.

Serves 4.

1¾ pounds (800 grams) bone-in lamb, cut into 12 pieces

2 teaspoons table salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1¼ cups (100 grams) grated dried unsweetened coconut

5 medium red onions

¼ cup (50 ml) plus 1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 tablespoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

4 medium tomatoes, chopped

1 tablespoon red chile powder, preferably
bedgi
(see Note page 234)

½ teaspoon ground green cardamom

1 teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1. Put the lamb in a large bowl, add 1 teaspoon of the salt and the turmeric, and stir well. Set aside for 20 minutes.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 3 cups (600 ml) water. Add the lamb. When the water comes to a boil, lower the heat to low, cover, and cook for 45 minutes or until the lamb is cooked through.

3. Uncover, increase the heat to high, and cook until the water is reduced to about 1 cup (200 ml). Drain in a colander set over a large bowl (reserve the stock), then transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

4. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the coconut and dry-roast until light golden brown, stirring continuously to ensure that it does not burn. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside to cool.

5. Slice half of the onions and chop the rest.

6. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the sliced onions and cook, stirring with a slotted spoon from time to time, until crisp and golden brown. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Set aside to cool.

7. Transfer the coconut and browned onions to a food processor and add ½ cup (100 ml) warm water. Process to a fine paste.

8. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining ¼ cup (50 ml) oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the chopped onions and sauté until golden brown. Add the ginger paste and garlic paste, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and sauté for 5 minutes.

9. Add the chile powder and the coconut-onion paste and cook over high heat for 8 minutes or until the oil comes to the top.

10. Add the lamb and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the reserved stock and cook, stirring continuously, for 10 minutes or until the sauce is thick and the lamb is well coated.

11. Sprinkle with the cardamom and
garam masala.
Serve hot.

Laal Maas

A fiery-hot lamb curry

Laal
means “red” and
maas
means “meat.” But do not be tempted to make it too red by using more chiles–it has plenty already (though some of my chile-loving friends would probably use more). Serve with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

15 to 20 dried red chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 cup (250 grams) plain yogurt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon table salt, or more if needed

1¾ pounds (800 grams) lamb leg, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) pieces

¼ cup (50 grams) ghee (page 37)

1 bay leaf

2 black cardamom pods

4 green cardamom pods

2 (1-inch/2½-cm) cinnamon sticks

10 cloves garlic, sliced

4 medium onions, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. After 2 minutes, add the cumin and coriander, and dry-roast for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.

2. Transfer to a spice grinder with the dried chiles and grind to a powder.

3. Put the yogurt in a medium bowl and add the ground cumin-coriander-chile mixture, the turmeric, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the lamb and stir well. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to marinate.

4. Place a medium nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the ghee. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the bay leaf, black and green cardamom, and cinnamon, and sauté for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute or until light golden. Add the onions and sauté for 8 minutes or until the onions are golden.

5. Add the lamb along with the marinade and sauté for 15 minutes.

6. Add 2 cups (400 ml) water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour or until the lamb is tender. Adjust the seasoning.