Making Artisan Cheese (22 page)

Heat curds slowly to 102°F (39°C); this should take forty minutes. Stir gently and frequently to keep the curds from matting. Once you reach the target temperature, maintain it for an additional thirty minutes, stirring gently. In the meantime, draw a pot of water (6 cups [1.4 L] minimum), and maintain it at 60°F (16°C).

With a sterilized measuring cup, draw off the whey to the level of the curds. Begin adding the water to the curds and stir. Continue adding the water until the temperature of the curds drops to 80°F (27°C). At this point, you should have added about 5 cups (1.2 L) of water. Maintain the temperature for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the curds from matting.

INGREDIENTS

2 gallons (7.6 L) whole milk

6 tablespoons (90 ml) mesophilic mother culture, or ¼ teaspoon (about 2 ml) mesophilic direct-set culture

4 drops annatto coloring diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool, unchlorinated water

teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool water. (see
page 72
)

1 teaspoon (5 ml) liquid rennet, or ¼ tablet dry rennet diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) water

2 tablespoons (36 g) cheese salt

TECHNIQUES

For illustrated steps and tools, see Intermediate Cheese-Making Techniques,
page 82
.

Colby cheese is similar in color and texture to Cheddar, but it has a milder flavor and is softer and moister.

Pour the curds into a colander lined with cheese cloth or butter muslin, rest it on top of a catch bowl, and allow to drain for twenty minutes at room temperature. You will notice that the curds become dry and firm. Pour the curds back into the pot, and mill them into ¼" (6 mm) pieces by hand. Blend in the salt.

Pour the curds into a 2-pound (900 g) cheese cloth–lined mold. Cover the curds with one corner of the cheese cloth, and press at twenty pounds for thirty minutes. Remove the cheese from the press, and slowly unwrap the cheese cloth. Turn the cheese, rewrap it in cloth, and press at twenty pounds for thirty minutes. Repeat this procedure, and press at forty pounds for one hour. Repeat again, and press at fifty pounds for twelve hours.

Take the cheese out of the mold, and unwrap the cheese cloth. Allow the cheese to air-dry on a wooden board for several days, turning every four hours. When the cheese is dry to the touch, it is ready for waxing and ripening. Completely cover the cheese in clear wax (see instructions for waxing on
page 81
).

Age in your refrigerator at 50°F (10°C) at 80–85 percent humidity for two to three months.

Yield: 2 pounds (900 g)

Artisan Advice

Certain cheeses, such as the cheeses on pages 107–113 fall into a subcategory of style known as washed curd. At the end of the scalding and stirring steps, whey is removed from the pot and is placed in very hot water, generally between 120°F and 140°F (50°C–60°C). This washing removes the lactose from the curds, which slows down the acidification process and allows the curds to absorb some of the water, giving the cheese a smooth texture.

Gouda

Gouda derives its name from a town just outside Rotterdam. Gouda is a washed-curd cheese made with whole milk, and is molded into the familiar rounded wheels.

Gouda is a washed-curd cheese made with whole milk that has a rich creamy flavor and consistency.

INGREDIENTS

2 gallons (7.6 L) whole milk

8 ounces (225 grams) mesophilic mother culture, or ¼ teaspoon mesophilic direct-set culture

teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool water (see
page 72
)

1 teaspoon (5 ml) liquid rennet, or ¼ rennet tablet diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool, unchlorinated water

6 cups (1.4 L) water at 175°F (79°C)

Brine

Cheese wax

TECHNIQUES

For illustrated steps and tools, see Intermediate Cheese-Making Techniques,
page 82
.

PROCEDURE

Heat the milk to 90°F (32°C), then gently stir in the starter culture and cover. Let the milk ripen for ten minutes. If using homogenized milk, add the diluted calcium chloride and stir.

Maintaining the target temperature of 90°F (32°C), add the diluted rennet, and stir for one minute. Cover and let sit at the target temperature for one hour. Check for a clean break (see
page 83
) with a curd knife (or your finger) and making one cut through the curds. Once you have a clean break, cut curds into ½" (about 1 cm) cubes. Stir and let the curds rest for five minutes at target temperature.

With a sanitized measuring cup, draw off one-third of the whey. Gradually add the heated water and stir. Bring the temperature to 92°F (33°C). This will take about 2½ cups (570 ml) of water. Continually stir to keep the curds from matting at the bottom of the pot. Once you reach the target temperature, let the curds rest for ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain off the whey to the level of the curds. Stir continuously as you add more of the 175°F (79°C) water until the temperature of the mixture arrives at 100°F (38°C). Maintain this temperature for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the curds from matting. Let the curds sit in the pot for thirty minutes, maintaining the target temperature. Strain off the whey using a colander.

Cumin Gouda

This is a nice twist on the traditional Gouda. The addition of zesty spice makes the cheese a good choice to accompany dark breads and robust beers.

Follow the recipe for Gouda, with the following modifications.

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon (7 g) cumin seed 1/2 cup (120 ml) water

PROCEDURE
Cover the cumin seeds with water and boil, covered, for fifteen minutes. Add additional water as necessary to keep the seeds covered. Strain the seeds, and reserve the flavored water. Allow the water to cool before adding it to the milk. Heat the milk, and then add the starter culture, as directed in the recipe. Once the curds have drained, add the cumin seeds and blend thoroughly.

Pour the curds into a 2-pound (900 g) cheese cloth–lined mold. Cover the curds with one corner of the cheese cloth, and press at twenty pounds for twenty minutes. Remove the cheese from the press, and slowly unwrap it. Turn the cheese, rewrap it in cheese cloth, and press at twenty pounds for twelve hours. Repeat this procedure, and press at twenty pounds for twelve hours. Remove the cheese from the press, and bathe it in the brine solution for three hours.

Remove the cheese from the brine solution, and pat dry with a paper towel. Ripen in a home cave (dedicated refrigerator) at 50°F (10°C) and 80–85 percent humidity, turning and washing the exterior daily with washing solution (dip a clean cloth into the brine solution). After three weeks, the cheese is ready for waxing (for more information on waxing, see
page 81
).

After waxing, ripen the cheese for another three months for a medium flavor, or nine months for a more intense, extra-aged flavor. Turn the cheese three times a week to achieve an even distribution of fats and moisture.

Yield: 2 pounds (900 g)

Gouda with Mustard Seed

Gouda and mustard seed is a natural pairing.

Follow the recipe for Gouda, with the following modifications.

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

2 teaspoons (about 4 g) mustard seed

½ cup (120 ml) water

PROCEDURE
Cover the mustard seeds with water and boil, covered, for fifteen minutes. Add additional water as necessary to keep the seeds covered. Strain the seeds, and reserve the flavored water. Allow the water to cool before adding to the milk. Heat the milk, and then add the starter culture, as directed in the recipe. Once the curds have drained, add the mustard seeds and blend thoroughly.

Edam

Washed-curd cheeses, such as Edam, tend to be mild and smooth when young but can exhibit a robust flavor when aged for an extended period of time. Edam is made with low-fat milk, is not washed, and is shaped into balls rather than wheels.