Making Artisan Cheese (9 page)

Ripening

The final stage of cheese making is the ripening. Ripening is associated with rennet-coagulated cheeses, which are typically matured for a period of three weeks to two years, depending on the type of cheese. After a cheese maker has followed a recipe and produced a raw product ready for maturation, it’s time for the cheese to develop into something beautiful and tasty. The process of ripening is a complex relationship between the curds, salt, rennet, and culture.

Although there are suggested times for ripening a cheese, there is no hard-and-fast rule, because many different cheeses can be consumed at different stages of ripeness, depending on the flavor preference. The only exception to this would be with cheeses for which the flavor will be noticeably inferior if consumed when young, such as
blue cheese. It is interesting to note that the length of aging is related inversely to the amount of moisture in the cheese. This is due to the fact that any cheese with high moisture content is susceptible to breakdown from the increased activity of the bacteria in the cheese.

The ripening process itself is a result of a series of complex biochemical reactions involving one or more of the following media:

rennet

naturally occurring enzymes found in the milk—especially important when making raw-milk cheeses

starter culture and the enzymes found within it

secondary microorganisms and the enzymes found within them

One example of a secondary microorganism is propionic acid, which is a bacterium that is added to Emmental cheese, giving it its unique holes, or “eye development,” as we say in the business. Other examples of secondary microorganisms are the molds and bacteria used for ripening cheese that are explained in further detail below.

The process of ripening involves three biochemical changes: glycolysis, lipolysis, and proteolysis. Each one involves conversion by enzymes of a particular substance into simpler compounds (glycolysis involves sugars, lipolysis involves fats [that is, lipids], and proteolysis involves proteins). Simple compounds, such as peptides and short-chain fatty acids, are crucial in transmitting flavor.

Another thing to keep in mind is that as a cheese ages, it is slowly dehydrating. When a cheese loses moisture, the fats and proteins are concentrated. This in turn will give the cheese a fuller flavor and a creamier, denser texture. Granted, this explanation is an oversimplification of a very complicated process, but it helps to define some of the variables at work when making cheese.

The process is a complex relationship between the curds, salt, rennet, and culture. Many different cheeses can be consumed at different stages of ripeness, depending on the flavor preference.

PART TWO
Making Cheese

“Cheese, wine, and a friend must be old to be good.”

–
CUBAN PROVERB

The process of making cheese, in many ways, can be just as fulfilling as eating it. Whether it is the fresh yogurt with which you top your fresh fruit or the section of cheddar that you cut from the wheel, the fruits of your labor will be ample reward for the time spent. With a few simple pieces of equipment, such as a cheese press, molds, and standard kitchen utensils, you are ready to make cheese.

CHAPTER THREE
BasicCheeseMaking: Getting Started

The best place to start making cheese is with fresh cheeses. They are the easiest to make, require little special equipment, and do not demand any serious time commitment in terms of making or aging. Fresh cheeses are sometimes known as acid-curd cheeses, because in some cases they rely on acid alone (or acid in combination with heat) to create the coagulation of the curd. Depending on the type of cheese you make, you can start in the morning or early afternoon and, in a few hours, have cheese ready for your evening meal.

However, there are some drawbacks to fresh cheeses. They are very mild and have subtle flavors, although they can be spiced up with the addition of herbs, fruits, or vegetables. Fresh cheeses also have a short shelf life and need to be consumed rather quickly—in some cases, the same day that they are made. Although a two-year-old Cheddar makes people salivate, the same cannot be said of a two-year-old cream cheese, if you catch my drift.

Fresh cheeses, such as the Neufchâtel shown here, are a joy to make, because they can be made and eaten—fresh—the same day.

A Few Words on Sanitation

Before we commence with the cheese-making process, it is imperative to take a serious look at proper sanitation procedures. Although cheese as a food is generally safe to consume, it does have the potential to produce serious food illness, so it is best to follow basic sanitation procedures when making your own.

First, you must sterilize your equipment. There are several ways to do this.

One method is to simply put all of your utensils in boiling water for five minutes, and then let them air-dry. This is the best method for sterilizing your milk-heating pan and metal tools, such as slotted spoons, curd knives, and so on (for more information, see The Importance of Cleanliness, on
page 25
).

Alternatively, you can create a mild bleach solution using two tablespoons (28 ml) of household bleach to one gallon (3.8 L) of water. This solution works equally well for sterilizing tools. You want this to be a mild solution, so don’t go overboard. Be sure to rinse off and airdry all utensils, because any bleach residue will have an adverse effect on the cheese cultures and rennet. When you are finished making your cheese, thoroughly clean all of your tools in hot water and dish detergent, and store them in a clean place.

In all cases, remember to relax when it comes to sanitation. We’re making cheese here, not running an operating room. Use common sense. Cheese has been made for more than 2,000 years, mostly with tools that today would not be considered safe by your local health department. If by chance your cheese becomes contaminated, you will more than likely run into a greater risk of hurting your cheese than you will of causing an illness.

In all cases, remember to relax—we’re making cheese here, not running an operating room.

Equipment

For making the basic fresh cheeses, most of the equipment you’ll need can be found in your kitchen.

Colander:
Any type of colander will do, but I prefer one with a high-footed bottom, so the whey will not touch the cheese.

Slotted Spoon:
Stainless steel is best.

Cooking Pot:
Again, stainless steel is preferred. Cast-iron and aluminum should not be used, because they are reactive to acids and will give your cheese a metallic flavor. You may want to consider buying a pot designated for cheese making. This will spare you the frustration of having to scrub the burn stains off the bottom of your catch-all pasta pot before making cheese. In any case, be certain that your pot is large enough to accommodate two to three gallons of milk. There is nothing worse than starting off with a pot that’s too small, and then scrambling to find a bigger one.