Making Artisan Cheese (12 page)

Variation:
Crème Bulgare
Use the same procedure as for yogurt, but simply substitute light cream for milk.

Yogurt Cheese

Yogurt cheese is one of the easiest cheeses to make. Its beauty lies in its simplicity; no special tools are required, and it can be made in as little as eight hours. Light and delicious, with a cream-cheese texture and a tangy flavor like that of sour cream, it has many uses. Although traditionally made with plain yogurt, try it with some of the flavored varieties, such as lemon, vanilla, or better yet, coffee.

PROCEDURE

Select a low-fat or nonfat yogurt variety labeled as containing live cultures. Do not use the Swiss- or custard-style yogurts, because they contain gelatin, which prevents the whey from separating from the yogurt and thus prevents it from forming cheese. You can use as much or as little yogurt as you like. Keep in mind that you’ll get half as much cheese as the yogurt you put into it.

Line a colander with cheese cloth, and place a catch bowl underneath. Pour the yogurt into the lined colander, and spread the yogurt across the cheese cloth, taking care not to compress it. Cover the colander with a clean towel or plastic wrap, and set the yogurt, colander, and catch bowl in the refrigerator to drain.

Check on it after two hours; you should notice that a considerable amount of whey has drained from the yogurt into the catch bowl. Discard the whey (or save it for baking). Gather the cheese cloth into a ball, and tie the ends around a wooden spoon, as shown on
page 84
. Suspend the yogurt above a deep bowl or stock pot by resting the wooden spoon on the rims of the container, so that there is room for whey to drain into the container.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds (0.9 grams) low-fat or nonfat yogurt

TECHNIQUES

For tools and illustrated steps, see Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses,
page 48
.

Traditionally made with plain yogurt, yogurt cheese can be topped with sun-dried tomatoes for a savory spread.

Allow the bundle of cheese to continue draining in the refrigerator—without disturbing it—for another eight to twenty-four hours, until it reaches the desired consistency. After eight hours it will be a soft spread; at the twenty-four-hour mark, the yogurt cheese should have a consistency comparable to cream cheese.

Remove the cheese from the cloth, form it into a ball, and place it in a covered plastic container in the refrigerator. Stored this way, yogurt cheese should keep for up to two weeks.

Yield: 2 cups (400 g)

Cream Cheese

If you have never had fresh cream cheese, you are in for a treat. Virtually all of the commercially produced cream cheese contains stabilizers and gums that extend its shelf life. With this recipe you will have a wholly natural cream cheese, and you’ll never need to shop for it at the supermarket.

PROCEDURE

Heat the creams to 90°F (32°C), then stir in the buttermilk and pour the mixture into a sanitized mixing bowl, preferably glass or any nonreactive metal. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Wrap a few kitchen towels around the bowl, making certain that they fit snugly. Place the bowl in a warm area, and let it sit for twenty-four hours.

After twenty-four hours, the cream mixture should have the consistency of yogurt and should not move when the bowl is leaned on its side. If it still has some movement, the cultures need more time to develop, so let it sit for another six to twelve hours. Once you have a firm mixture, pour it into your cheese cloth–lined colander with a catch bowl underneath. Allow it to drain for fifteen minutes, then fold the cheese cloth over the cheese. Place the colander in a deep bowl for continued draining. Cover it with plastic, and place in the refrigerator for as long as twelve to fourteen hours.

INGREDIENTS

4 cups (950 ml) non-ultra pasteurized half and half

1 cup (235 ml) non-ultra pasteurized whipping cream

2 tablespoons (28 ml) buttermilk

Salt

Herbs (optional)

TECHNIQUES

For tools and illustrated steps, see Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses,
page 48
.

Homemade cream cheese has a fresh flavor and creamy texture that will make you wonder why anyone would go to the store for this breakfast treat.

Remove the curd from the cheese cloth, and salt to taste. Add herbs if desired. Reshape the curds into balls and wrap them in fresh cheese cloth; put the balls back into the refrigerator in the colander. Make sure that you have a drip bowl under the colander to catch any additional whey. Cover the colander with plastic wrap, and let it sit for thirty-six to forty-eight hours, depending on the firmness of cheese you desire.

Place finished cheese in a sealed plastic container in the refrigerator. Stored this way, the cream cheese should last for up to two weeks.

Yield: 1 pound (450 g)

Lemon Cheese

Delicious and simple, lemon cheese can be used as a light, refreshing spread. Add some fresh herbs, such as chives or dill, for additional zest.

PROCEDURE

Heat the milk to 165°F (74°C), stirring frequently to prevent the milk from scorching. Once the milk reaches the target temperature, take the pot off the burner and stir in the lemon juice. Let the milk rest for fifteen minutes. The curds will partially separate in the milk. If you are using homogenized milk, the curds will appear as thin threads.

Pour the mixture into a cheese cloth–lined colander with a catch bowl underneath, and tie the cheese cloth into a ball. Place the colander, cheese, and catch bowl in the refrigerator, and allow the cheese to drain for one hour, or until the whey stops dripping. Remove the cheese from the refrigerator, unwrap the cloth, and put the cheese into a bowl. Salt to taste, and mix in any additional herbs you want. Place the cheese in an airtight container, and store it in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Yield: 1 pound (450 g)

INGREDIENTS

½ gallon (1.9 L) whole milk

¼ cup (60 ml) fresh-squeezed lemon juice

TECHNIQUES

For tools and illustrated steps, see Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses,
page 48
.

Mascarpone

Here is an easy cheese to make that is so good you won’t want to go to the store for it ever again. Although best known as an ingredient for the Italian desserts cannoli and tiramisu, this cheese has a plethora of other uses. Use it stuffed in raviolis, in cream sauces, or blended with coffee liquor to create a dip for biscotti.

INGREDIENTS

1 quart (0.9 L) light cream

¼ teaspoon (about 1 g) direct-set crème fraîche culture

TECHNIQUES

For tools and illustrated steps, see Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses,
page 48
.

PROCEDURE

Heat the milk to 86°F (30°C), then add the starter culture. Cover the milk, and let it ripen at room temperature for twelve hours, or until the milk has set (it will then have the consistency of a very thick yogurt).

Pour the mixture into a cheese cloth–lined colander set over a catch bowl. Drape the ends of the cheese cloth over the cheese, and place the cheese, colander, and bowl in the refrigerator. Let the cheese drain until it reaches the desired consistency, from creamy to spreadable. This process will take one to four hours. When the cheese has drained, remove from the cheese cloth, and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to four weeks.

Yield: 1 pound (450 g)

Crème Fraîche

Crème fraîche is technically a cultured dairy product rather than a cheese. Nonetheless, it is an exceptional product with many uses. Crème fraîche is a staple in a French kitchen because it adds depth of flavor to sauces.

PROCEDURE

Heat the cream to 86°F (30°C). Add the starter culture, stir, and let sit at room temperature for twelve hours, or until coagulated.

When set, spoon it into an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Yield: 1 pound (450 g)

INGREDIENTS

1 quart (0.9 L) light cream

¼ teaspoon (about 1 g) direct-set crème fraîche starter culture (see Resources,
page 173
)

TECHNIQUES

For tools and illustrated steps, see Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses,
page 48
.

Artisan Advice

Crème fraîche is more versatile than many dairy products. It is a natural accompaniment to a range of foods including fresh fruit and smoked fish; it can be used as an alternative to sour cream for cream sauces. Because crème fraîche contains 10 percent more fat than sour cream, and consequently less protein, it will hold up to higher temperatures that other fermented dairy products cannot.