Making Artisan Cheese (36 page)

Rhode Island:
Raw milk sales are illegal with the exception of raw goat’s milk from the farm to the consumer with a physician’s prescription.

South Carolina:
Raw goat’s milk is permitted for on-farm purchase and in retail stores. Raw cow’s milk is allowed only for farm-direct sales to consumers.

South Dakota:
Raw milk purchases are permitted on-farm only.

Tennessee:
Raw milk sales are illegal with the exception of pet consumption. A cow-share program is legal.

Texas:
Raw milk is legal only as farm-direct to consumers, providing the farm holds a grade A “Raw for retail” license. Currently no cow dairies have this permit, though there are a few goat dairies. There are several cow-share programs active in the state.

Utah:
Raw milk sales are permitted on-farm directly to the consumer.

Vermont:
Raw milk sales are legal only through on-farm direct to the consumer. Farmers are permitted to sell only twenty-five quarts (24 L) per day.

Virginia:
Raw milk sales are illegal. Cow-share programs are available.

Washington:
Only certified grade-A dairies can sell raw milk, but none have taken this step since the 1920s. Cow-share programs are widely available.

West Virgina:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Wisconsin:
Although the Wisconsin statutes do not prohibit “incidental sales of milk directly to the consumer at the dairy farm where the milk was produced,” health inspectors interpret “incidental” as one sale and no more. This has essentially eliminated raw milk purchases.

Wyoming:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Books and Magazines on Cheese and Cheese Making

Androuet, Pierre.
The Complete Encyclopedia of French Cheese.
(Harper’s Magazine Press, 1973). This book is out of print,but available through libraries and used-book sellers (including Amazon.com).

Baboin-Jaubert, Alix.
Cheese: Selecting, Tasting and Serving the World’s Finest Cheeses.
(Laurel Glenn Publishing, 2003).

Carroll, Ricki.
Home Cheese Making: Recipes for 75 Delicious Cheeses.
(Storey Publishing, 1982).

Caseus International.

This journal is published three times per year, and is full of informative articles on cheese and cheese making. Contact New England Cheese Making Supply (see
page 173
) for a subscription or back issues.

Jenkins, Steve.
The Cheese Primer.
(Workman Publishing Company, 1996).

McCalman, Max, and David Gibbons.
The Cheese Plate.
(Clarkson Potter, 2002).

Mont-Laurier Benedictine Nuns.
Goat Cheese Small Scale.
(New England Cheesemaking, 1983).

Rance, Patrick.
The French Cheese Book.
(Papermac, 1991).

This book is out of print but can be found through used book sellers (including Amazon.com).

Scott, R.
Cheese Making Practice.
(R. K. Robinson and R. A. Wilbey, 1998). First printed in 1981 and designed for the industrial cheese maker.

Werlin, Laura, Steven Jenkins, and Martin Jacobs.
The New American Cheese.
(Stewart, Tabori, and Chang, 2000).

Photography and Illustration Credits

All photographs by Allan Penn with the exception of the following:

American Dairy Goat Association/Evans Photography, 26 (bottom)
© foodfolio/Alamy, 111
© Gordon M. Grant/Alamy, 56
Terri Hobbs/www.crazyforcows.com
, 26 (top); 103
© IML Image Group Ltd/Alamy, 117
© isifa Image Service s.r.o/Alamy, 69
Ron Manville, 23; 39; 89; 119; 157
Eran Wajswol, 27 (top); 97

All illustrations by Judy Love

Sources

Behr, Edward. “The Art of Eating.”
No. 27, Summer 1993.

Carroll, Ricki.
Home Cheese Making
.
(Storey Books, 2002).

Ciletti, Barbara.
Making Great Cheese
at Home
. (Lark Books, 1999).

Fox, Patrick F et al.
Fundamentals of
Cheese Science
. (Aspen Publication,
2000).

Mcallman, Max.
The Cheese Plate
(Clarkson Potter, 2002).

McGee, Harold.
On Food and
Cooking: The Science and Lore of the
Kitchen
. (Simon & Schuster, 2004).

Schmid, Ron.
The Untold Story of
Milk
. (New Trends Publishing, 2003).

Scott, R.
Cheesemaking Pratice
. (Aspen
Publication, 1998).

USDA.
Cheese Varieties and
Descriptions
. (U. S. Government
Printing Office, 1979).

About the Author

Tim Smith has been passionate about cheese for more than 15 years. He lives, writes, and makes cheese in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Acknowledgments

A special thanks to South End Formaggio in Boston, Massachusetts, and to Collecting Dust in East Gloucester, Massachusetts, for supplying cheese, tools, and photo props.

© 2005 by Quarry Books
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.
Neither the publisher nor the author accepts liability for any of the recipes in this cookbook or their results. Every attempt has been made to accurately present and apply the principles and techniques of cheese making to the best of the publisher’s and author’s knowledge.
First published in the United States of America by
Quarry Books, a member of
Quayside Publishing Group
33 Commercial Street
Gloucester, Massachusetts 01930-5089
Telephone: (978) 282-9590
Fax: (978) 283-2742
www.rockpub.com
Digital edition: 978-1-61058-106-6
Hardcover edition: 978-1-5925-3197-4
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Smith, Tim.
  Making artisan cheese : fifty fine cheeses that you can make in your own
kitchen / Tim Smith.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 1-59253-197-0 (pbk.)
1. Cheese. 2. Cheese—Varieties. 3. Cookery (Cheese) I. Title.
SF271.S65 2005
637'.35—dc22

2005017815
CIP

ISBN 1-59253-197-0
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Design: Carol Petro
Cover Image: Allan Penn Photography
Printed in China
Printed in Singapore

Table of Contents

Cover

Title Page

Dedication

Contents

Introduction

PART 1 HOW TRADITION INFLUENCES MODERN CHEESE

CHAPTER ONE A Brief History of Cheese Making
Ancient Origins
The Middle Ages
Colonization
The Industrial Revolution
The Rebirth of Artisan Cheese
CHAPTER TWO Cheese-Making Basics
Composition of Milk
Types of Animal Milk and Their Influence on Cheese
How Grazing, Season, and Geography Affect Milk
Forms of Milk
Cultures and Rennet: The Other Pieces of the Puzzle
Molds and External Bacteria
Other Ingredients
Salt
Ripening

PART 2 MAKING CHEESE

CHAPTER THREE Basic Cheese Making: Getting Started
A Few Words on Sanitation
Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses
Basic Cheese Recipes
Paneer
Fresh Chèvre
Quark
Yogurt
Yogurt Cheese
Cream Cheese
Lemon Cheese
Mascarpone
Crème Fraîche
Cottage Cheese
CHAPTER FOUR Intermediate Cheese Making
Ingredients
Starter Cultures: Mother Cultures and Direct-Set

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