Making Artisan Cheese (35 page)

cottage cheese,
68
–69

cow’s milk, characteristics of,
26

cow-share program,
30

cream cheese,
62
–63

crème fraîche,
66
–67

Crottin,
150
–151

cultures direct-set,
34
,
75
,
83

mother,
34
,
73
–74
starter,
33
–34,
73
–75

culturing milk,
82
,
132

curd knife,
77

curds cutting,
83
,
133

draining,
49
,
84
–85,
133
–134
scalding and stirring,
84

D

direct-set cultures,
34
,
75
,
83

draining,
49
,
134

draining curds,
49
,
84
–85,
133
–134

drying mats,
136

E

Edam,
110
–111

Emmental,
114
–115

F

Festival of Cheeses,
21

feta,
100
–101

fresh, soft cheeses.
See
basic cheese making

fromage fort,
147

G

ghee,
157

gjetost,
129

goat’s milk, characteristics of,
26
–27

Gouda,
108
–109

Gouda, blue,
142
–143

Gruyère,
116
–117

H

Halloumi,
96
–97

history of cheese making,
14
–21

archeological evidence,
14
artisan cheeses, rebirth of,
21
cheese varieties, development of,
17
–18
colonization, effect of,
19
–20
factories, creation of,
20
–21
historical references,
16
production technologies, development of,
17

Holmes, Gail,
123

I

intermediate cheese making,
70
–129

equipment,
76
–81
ingredients,
72
–73
preparation,
88
recipes,
88
–129
starter cultures,
73
–75
techniques,
82
–87

L

lactose intolerance,
33

Leiden,
111

lemon cheese,
64

M

mascarpone,
65

master cheese makers Holmes, Gail,
123

Wajswol, Eran,
38
Yoder, Carleton,
137

maturation,
135

milk animal types,
25
–27

composition of,
24
–25
culturing,
82
,
132
curding,
48

forms of homogenized,
32

pasteurized,
30
–31
powdered,
32
–33
raw,
28
,
29
–30
Ultra Heat-Treated (UHT),
29
,
33

heating,
27
,
97

pasteurization of,
30
–31

sterilizing,
74

milling,
85

mold- and bacteria-ripened cheeses.
See
advanced cheese making molds,
36
–37,
145

geotrichum candidum
,
37
penicillium candidum
,
37
,
145
penicillium roqueforti
,
37

Monterey jack,
90
–91

mother cultures,
34
,
73
–74

mozzarella,
124
–125

Muenster,
152
–153

myseost,
129

N

natural rind,
80

Neufchâtel,
148
–149

P

paneer,
52
–53

Parmesan,
118
–119

pasteurization,
30
–31

pH testing equipment,
77
–78

pressing,
87
,
134

Provolone,
126
–127

Pyrenees,
98
–99

Q

Quark,
57

R

rennet,
33
,
35
,
75

adding to milk,
82
,
132
–133

ricotta,
128

rind, natural,
80

ripening,
40
–41

ripening box,
136

ripening cave,
78
–79

Romano,
120
–121

S

salt,
40

salting,
86
,
134

sanitation,
25
,
28
,
29
,
30
,
46

serving cheese,
160
–165

with beer,
164
–165
with wine,
163
–164

sheep’s milk, characteristics of,
27

starter cultures,
33
–34,
73
–75

sterilization of equipment,
25
,
46

of jars,
74
of milk,
74

Stilton blue,
140
–141

white,
138
–139

Stresa Convention,
17

T

terroir
,
28
,
29

V

vegetable ash,
38

W

Wajswol, Eran,
38

waxing,
71
,
80
–81

Y

Yoder, Carleton,
137

yogurt,
58
–59

yogurt cheese,
50
,
60
–61

Resources

Cheese-Making Suppliers
These suppliers will provide you with everything
you need to make cheese, with the exception of
the milk.

CANADA
Glengarry Cheesemaking and Dairy Supply
21048 Concession #10, RR #2
Alexandria, Ontario KOC 1A0
Canada
888-816-0903
www.glengarrycheesemaking.on.ca

UNITED KINGDOM
Mooreland Cheesemakers
Brewhamfield Farm
North Brewham, Bruton
Somerset BA100QQ
UK
0441749850108
www.cheesemaking.co.uk

UNITED STATES
Dairy Connection
10 Levine Ct.
Madison, WI 53741
USA
608-242-9030
608-242-9036
www.dairyconnection.com

The Grape & Granary
915 Home Ave.
Akron, OH 44310
USA
800-695-9870
www.thegrape.net

Leeners
9293 Olde Eight Rd.
Northfield, OH 44067
USA
800-543-3697
www.Leeners.com

New England Cheese Making Supply
P. O. Box 85
292 Main St.
Ashfield, MA 01330-0085
USA
413-628-3808
413-628-4061
www.cheesemaking.com

Websites with
Cheese-Making Information

schmidling.netfirms.com/making.htm
Jack Schmidling’s website covers the basics of
cheese making; the company is home to the
Cheeseypress.

biology.clc.uc.edu/Fankhauser/Cheese/Cheese.html
Frankhauser’s quirky cheese page shows every
aspect of cheese making, and is complete with
photographs. (The homemade cheese press he
has constructed it is not to be missed.)

www.foodsci.uoguelph.ca/dairyedu/cheese2.html
Department of Food Science, University of
Guelph, Guelph, Ontario, Canada. Packed with
technical information as well as cheese recipes
and resources.

Source of Artisan Cheeses
South End Formaggio
268 Shawmut Ave.
Boston, MA 02118
USA
617-350-6996
www.southendformaggio.com

Sources for Raw Milk
For those who are interested in purchasing raw, unpasteurized milk for cheese making, here is a summary of the availability at the time this book is being written. This information was made available from A Campaign for Real Milk, an organization dedicated to promoting access to raw milk. You can find out more about this organization by visiting their website
www.realmilk.com
. There you will find further details and a listing of dairies by state and county.

UNITED KINGDOM
There are reportedly around 200 producers of raw milk in England. This milk is sold directly to the consumer. In Wales, designated farms can legally sell raw milk directly to the consumer.

UNITED STATES
Alabama:
Raw milk sales for animal consumption only.

Alaska:
Raw milk sales are illegal, but regulations are interpreted to permit raw milk distribution through a cow-share program.

Arizona:
Raw milk sales are legal, provided the milk carries a warning label.

Arkansas:
Raw milk sales are illegal, with the exception of on-farm sales, directly to the consumer, of raw goat milk.

California:
Raw milk sales are legal by licensed farms, and raw milk may be sold on the farm and in retail stores in every county, with the exception of Humboldt. Currently, there are only two producers, due to the additional fees for testing required by the state.

Colorado:
Raw milk sales are permitted only through the Guidestone, a cow-share program in Loveland.

Connecticut:
Raw milk sales are legal from licensed farms in retail stores and directly on the farm.

Delaware:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

District of Columbia:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Florida:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Georgia:
Raw milk sales are illegal, with the exception for animal consumption.

Hawaii:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Idaho:
Raw milk sales are legal with a license, but there are none currently in operation.

Illinois:
Raw milk sales are legal if the product conforms to the state regulations and is sold on the farm. Customers must bring their own containers.

Indiana:
Raw milk sales are illegal with the exception of on-farm sales “for pet consumption only.”

Iowa:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Kansas:
Raw milk sales are legal only if purchased on the farm.

Kentucky:
Raw milk sales are illegal, with the exception of the purchase of goat’s milk with the written prescription from a licensed physician.

Louisiana:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Maine:
Raw milk sales are legal at the retail level and on the farm.

Maryland:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Massachusetts:
Raw milk sales are permitted through licensed farms. This is decided on a town-by-town basis.

Michigan:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Minnesota:
Raw milk sales are permitted directly on the farm, no permit is required.

Mississippi:
Raw milk sales are permitted for on-farm sales of raw goat’s milk only. The farm must have no more than nine goats producing milk.

Missouri:
Raw milk sales are legal on an on-farm basis.

Montana:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

Nebraska:
Raw milk sales are legal for on-farm customers. However, the farmer may not legally advertise the sale of raw milk, which includes informing someone on the telephone that he or she sells raw milk.

Nevada:
Raw milk sales are legal, but none is available.

New Hampshire:
Raw milk sales are permitted on the farm up to twenty-five quarts (24 L) per day; customers must bring their own containers. A milk plant may also sell raw milk directly to the consumer.

New Jersey:
Raw milk sales are illegal.

New Mexico:
Raw milk sales are legal at retail and on the farm.

New York:
Raw milk sales are permitted on the farm only. Currently, seven farms are licensed to sell raw milk.

North Carolina:
Raw milk sales are permitted on-farm for animal consumption only.

North Dakota:
Raw milk sales are illegal with the exception for pet consumption.

Ohio:
Raw milk sales are illegal with the exception of farms who sold raw milk before 1965 when the law was changed. Currently there are no farms selling raw milk.

Oklahoma:
Raw milk sales are permitted at the farm; customers must supply their own container.

Oregon:
Raw milk sales are permitted for goat’s milk on the farm and at retail. Raw cow’s milk is permitted only on farms with fewer than three milking cows.

Pennsylvania:
Raw milk sales are permitted at retail and at the farm.

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