Read Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times Online
Authors: Mark Bittman
3.
Put the mixture, in batches if necessary, in a blender and puree until smooth, adding a little water or stock if necessary if the mixture is too thick. The recipe can be prepared a day or two in advance up to this point, cooled, and then chilled or reheated to serve.
CHICKPEAS
LIKE ANY BEAN,
chickpeas can be cooked without soaking, though they will cook somewhat more quickly if they are soaked for six to twelve hours beforehand. Soaked or not, cooking time for beans is somewhat unpredictable, depending largely on how much moisture they have lost during storage (older beans, being drier, require longer cooking times). Generally speaking, soaked chickpeas will take about one and a half hours to become tender; unsoaked ones will take about thirty minutes longer.
Canned chickpeas do not have as much flavor as cooked dried chickpeas, but they are incomparably more convenient, as dried chickpeas can take three hours to soften. Your choice.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: ABOUT 2 HOURS
THE COOKING LIQUID
of chickpeas, unlike that of most other beans, tastes so good that it makes the basis of a decent soup. Season the beans and their stock as they cook—with garlic, herbs, and some aromatic vegetables, for example—and you have the basis of a great soup. Puree some of the cooked chickpeas, then stir them back into the soup, and it becomes deceptively, even sublimely, creamy.
1½ cups dried chickpeas
5 garlic cloves, sliced
3 fresh rosemary or thyme sprigs
1 medium to large carrot, cut into small dice
1 celery stalk, trimmed and cut into small dice
1 medium onion, cut into small dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon minced garlic
½ pound sausage, grilled or broiled and thinly sliced (optional)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, or to taste
1.
If you have the time, soak the chickpeas for several hours or overnight in water to cover (if not, don’t worry). Combine the chickpeas, sliced garlic, and herb in a large saucepan with fresh water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer, partially covered, for at least 1 hour, or until fairly tender. Add water if it is boiling off and skim any foam that rises to the top of the pot.
2.
Scoop out the herbs and add the carrot, celery, onion, salt, and pepper to the pot. Continue to cook until the chickpeas and vegetables are soft, at least another 20 minutes. Remove about half the chickpeas and vegetables and carefully puree in a blender with enough of the water to allow the machine to do its work. Return the puree to the soup and stir; reheat with the minced garlic, adding water if the mixture is too thick.
3.
Stir in the sausage if you are using it and cook for a few minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve, drizzled with the olive oil.
VARIATION
This soup can be made with canned chickpeas: Substitute 4 cups canned chickpeas for the dried chickpeas and combine with 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock and the vegetables as in step 2. Cook until the vegetables are tender, then proceed as directed.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 30 MINUTES
FRESH ASIAN-STYLE
noodles are everywhere these days—even supermarkets—and they’re ideal for soups, because you can cook them right in the broth. It takes only a few minutes, and, unlike dried noodles, they won’t make the broth too starchy. Do not overcook the noodles; if you use thin ones, they’ll be ready almost immediately after you add them to the simmering stock.
Start with canned chicken stock if you must, but don’t skip the step of simmering it briefly with the garlic and ginger, which will give it a decidedly Asian flavor.
6 cups chicken stock
10 slices peeled fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1½ cups chopped cooked chicken
1 cup broccoli florets, no larger than 1 inch on any side
1 pound fresh thin egg noodles (labeled “soup noodles” or “wonton noodle” or simply “noodles”)
2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
1 tablespoon sesame oil
½ cup minced scallion
1.
Heat the stock with the ginger and crushed garlic while you prepare the other ingredients. Keep it warm and simmering until you are ready to use it.
2.
Put the oil in a broad, deep skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the minced garlic and stir, then add the chicken. Turn the heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to brown. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.
3.
Strain and add the stock; adjust the heat so that it boils gently. Add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are separate and tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and sesame oil, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Divide the soup among 4 bowls; add a little more stock to each if you want the mixture soupier. Garnish with the scallion and serve.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 30 MINUTES
BUY RICE “VERMICELLI,”
the thinnest rice noodles sold. Substitute angel hair pasta (you’ll have to boil it separately) if you like.
Scant ½ pound fine rice noodles
6 cups chicken stock
1 small dried chile
1 tablespoon finely minced peeled fresh ginger
1 bunch of scallions
½ pound skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into ½-inch cubes
¼ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps sliced
2 tablespoons nam pla (fish sauce) or soy sauce, or to taste
Salt if necessary
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro
1.
Soak the rice noodles in very hot water to cover. Meanwhile, put the stock in a saucepan with the chile and ginger over medium heat. Trim the scallions; chop the white part and add it to the simmering stock. Chop the green part and set aside.
2.
After about 8 minutes of simmering, remove the chile. Drain the noodles and add them, along with the chicken breast and mushrooms. Stir and adjust the heat so the mixture continues to simmer. When the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes, add the nam pla; taste and adjust the seasoning—add more nam pla or soy sauce or some salt if necessary, along with the cilantro and reserved scallions, then serve.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 45 MINUTES
A GOOD MUSHROOM BARLEY
soup needs no meat, because you can make it with dried porcini, which can be reconstituted in hot water in less than ten minutes, giving you not only the best-tasting mushrooms you can find outside of the woods but an intensely flavored broth that rivals beef stock. A touch of soy sauce is untraditional but really enhances the flavor.
¾ ounce dried porcini (about ¾ cup)
2 tablespoons olive oil
¼ pound shiitake or button (white) mushrooms, stemmed and roughly chopped
2 medium carrots, sliced
¾ cup pearled barley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1.
Soak the porcini in 1 quart of very hot water. Put the olive oil in a medium saucepan and turn the heat to high. Add the shiitakes and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown. Add the barley and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until it begins to brown; sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Remove the porcini from their soaking liquid (do
not
discard the liquid); sort through and discard any hard bits.
2.
Add the porcini to the pot and cook, stirring, for about a minute. Add the bay leaf, the mushroom-soaking water, and 5 cups additional water (or stock if you prefer). Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the barley is very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. If the soup is very thick, add a little more water. Add the soy sauce, then taste and add more salt if necessary and plenty of pepper. Serve hot.
PEAR AND GORGONZOLA GREEN SALAD WITH WALNUTS
BIG CHOPPED SALAD WITH VINAIGRETTE
ASIAN CHICKEN SALAD WITH GREENS
SOUTHEAST ASIAN SHRIMP AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD
TRIPLE SESAME SALAD WITH SCALLOPS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 10 MINUTES
MANY PEOPLE ARE
hooked on premade salad dressing because they believe that homemade dressing is a production, but it need not be. Try this. (And see
Basic Vinaigrette
, or
Soy or Nut Vinaigrette
.)
About 6 cups torn assorted greens
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, more or less
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar or sherry vinegar, or fresh lemon juice to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper (pepper optional)
Put the greens in a bowl and drizzle them with oil, vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Toss and taste. Correct the seasoning, add pepper if desired, and serve immediately.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 20 MINUTES
A LOAD OF
herbs and a strongly flavored vinaigrette make this salad special. Choose either the soy or the nut vinaigrette depending on what appeals to you, what you’re serving the salad with, and what you’ve got on hand.
1 cup assorted chopped mild fresh herbs, like parsley, dill, mint, basil, and/or chervil
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
½ teaspoon minced fresh tarragon (optional)
6 cups mesclun or other greens
Soy Vinaigrette or Nut Vinaigrette (recipes follow)
1.
Combine the herbs and greens; cover with a damp towel and refrigerate for up to 24 hours until ready to serve.
2.
When you’re ready to serve, prepare one of the vinaigrettes and toss with the greens. Add more salt or lemon juice if necessary and serve immediately.
Soy Vinaigrette
Whisk together ½ cup grapeseed or olive oil, ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and a large pinch each of salt and pepper. Taste and add more salt if necessary (it may not be).
Nut Vinaigrette
Whisk together ¼ cup hazelnut or walnut oil, ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, and a large pinch each of salt and pepper. Taste and add more salt if necessary (it may not be).
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 20 TO 30 MINUTES
AS FAR A
cry from iceberg lettuce and bottled dressing as you can imagine, this is a magical combination of powerful flavors made without cooking or any major challenges.
Simple as this salad is, without top-quality ingredients it won’t amount to much. So use sherry or good balsamic vinegar to make the dressing, use pears that are tender and very juicy, not crunchy, mushy, or dry, and use real Italian Gorgonzola. It should be creamy; if you can taste it before buying, so much the better.
This rich salad can serve as the centerpiece of a light lunch, accompanied by little more than bread. It makes an equally great starter for a grand dinner—followed by roasted meat or fish, for example—or a simple one, served with soup.
2 large pears (about 1 pound)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup walnuts
¼ pound Gorgonzola or other creamy blue cheese
6 cups mixed greens, torn into bite-sized pieces
About ½ cup
Basic Vinaigrette
1.
Peel and core the pears; cut them into ½-inch chunks and toss with the lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours until needed.
2.
Put the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat and toast them, shaking the pan frequently, until they are aromatic and beginning to darken in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.
3.
Crumble the Gorgonzola into small bits; cover and refrigerate until needed.
4.
When you’re ready to serve, toss the pears, cheese, and greens together with as much of the dressing as you like. Crumble the toasted walnuts over the salad and serve immediately.