Authors: Hari Nayak
6 When you are ready to fill the samosas, divide the Samosa Pastry into 8 balls. It is important to work with one ball of dough at time and to keep the other dough balls covered while working to prevent drying. Take a ball and roll it out into a 7-inch (18-cm) round. Cut it in half with a sharp knife. Working with one of the half-circles, with the straight edge positioned at the top, fold one of the sides inward to the center. With your finger, rub a little water on top of the folded edge. Now take the other side and fold it inward, overlapping the moistened dough edge to form a cone. Press the two edges together. Fill the cone with about 2 tablespoons of the filling of your choice. Do not over fill the samosa. It is very important to make sure there is at least a1/4-inch (6-mm) wide border of dough along the top to make sure the filling does not come out while frying. With your finger, rub a little water along the inside edge of the dough at the top of the cone. Close the top of the cone by firmly pressing the open edges together. Press the top seam down with back side of the fork or flute it with your fingers. Fill the rest of the samosas.
7 Heat 2 inches of oil in a kadhai, small wok or large saucepan over medium heat to 325°F (160°C) on a deep-fry or candy thermometer. To gauge the temperature of the oil without a thermometer, drop a piece of bread about 1-inch (2.5-cm) square into the oil, turning the piece of bread often as the oil heats up. When the oil reaches 325°F (160°C), the bread will begin to brown quickly and turn golden brown all over—like a crouton—in about 40 seconds. Deep-fry the samosa in batches, turning frequently until golden brown and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Wrapping the Samosas
Split Pea Fritters
Dal kae Pakorae
During the monsoon season in India, people crave hot, fried snacks and tea. There can be nothing more consuming than seeing rain soaked mountains in front of you, freshly washed asphalt roads, couples sharing umbrellas, and raincoat-clad children returning from school splashing water onto each other from puddles—all while sitting on a bench on the roadside curb and sipping hot chai and nibbling snacks like these fritters! The restaurants and tea shops of Udipi, a city and region in coastal southwestern Indian state of Karnataka (and my home town), are famous for their snacks and variety of vadas (lentil-and rice-based fritters). The cuisine from this region of India, and especially its vegetarian delicacies, are popular all over India. The region is so famous for its food that restaurants serving its cuisine are known as “udupi” restaurants. These split pea fritters, known as chaatambade or dal vada, are just one of the many famous vadas from Udupi. This crunchy and incredibly tasty snack is traditionally made with split yellow peas (chana dal) and subtly flavored with green chili peppers, ginger and fresh coriander leaves (cilantro). I have added spinach for an added twist. If you do not care for spinach, use one-half pound (250 g) fresh dill instead—the result is equally delicious. Serve with South Indian Coconut Chutney (page 40) or Garlic and Peanut Chutney (page 39).
Serves 4
Prep time: 30 minutes plus 1 hour to soak lentils
Cook time:: 15 minutes
21/2 cups (425 g) split yellow peas (chana dal)
1/2 lb (250 g) fresh spinach, washed, stemmed and finely chopped
1 red onion (about 1/3 lb/150 g), minced
2 fresh green chili peppers, minced
One 1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
10 fresh or dried curry leaves, minced
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
11/2 teaspoons salt
Oil, for deep-frying
1 Place the chana dal in a large bowl, cover with water, and set aside to soak for at least an hour. Put the soaked dal into a strainer and drain thoroughly. Transfer the dal to a blender and process for 2 to 3 minutes to a coarse paste without adding any water. It is important that some of the dal remains whole to give the fritters a crispy texture.
2 Transfer the coarse dal paste to a mixing bowl and add the chopped spinach, red onion, green chili peppers, ginger, curry leaves, fresh coriander leaves and salt. Mix thoroughly to make a thick paste.
3 Divide the mixture into golf ball–size portions and gently roll and press each between your palms to form small, round patties. The mixture should yield about 20 patties.
4 Heat 2 inches of oil in a kadhai, small wok or large saucepan over medium heat to 325°F (160°C) on a deep-fry or candy thermometer. To gauge the temperature of the oil without a thermometer, drop a piece of bread about 1-inch (2.5-cm) square into the oil, turning the piece of bread often as the oil heats up. When the oil reaches 325°F (160°C), the bread will begin to brown quickly and turn golden brown all over—like a crouton— in about 40 seconds. Deep-fry the patties in batches for 5 minutes, or until deep golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
Potato and Onion Fritters
Aloo aur Pyaz kae Pakora
Traditionally known as pakora, bhajis or bhajiyas, these fried morsels are a very popular street food of India and are a common item on every Indian restaurant menu. They are served with chutney or even tomato ketchup and are ideally eaten hot and crisp right out of the pan because they get soggy as they cool. I like to use the double-fry method, which entails lightly frying the pakoras in advance, allowing them to cool and then either refrigerating them in an airtight container or ziplock bags for up to a week or freezing them up to a month. To reheat, I bring them to room temperature before refrying them in hot oil. Serve pakoras with one or more chutneys of your choice or tomato ketchup.
Serves 6
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
1 large onion (about 1/2 lb/250 g), thinly sliced
1 large potato (about 2/3 lb/300 g), peeled and finely shredded
5 cups (250 g) packed spinach leaves, washed and chopped
2 cups (220 g) chickpea flour (besan), sifted
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
One1/2-in (1.25-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 fresh green chili pepper, minced
1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed
1/2 teaspoon ground Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed 1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
13/4 cups (425 ml) water
Oil, for deep-frying
1 or more chutneys of your choice or tomato ketchup, for serving
1 Mix together the onion, potatoes, spinach, chickpea flour, fresh coriander leaves, ginger, green chili pepper, coriander seeds, Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper, cumin, salt and baking powder in a large bowl. Gradually mix in the water to make a thick batter. (Onions will expel water, so adjust the quantity of water based on the consistency.)
2 Heat 2 inches of oil in a kadhai, small wok or large saucepan over medium heat to 325°F (160°C) on a deep-fry or candy thermometer. To gauge the temperature of the oil without a thermometer, drop a piece of bread about 1-inch (2.5-cm) square into the oil, turning the piece of bread often as the oil heats up. When the oil reaches 325°F (160°C), the bread will begin to brown quickly and turn golden brown all over—like a crouton—in about 40 seconds.
3 Using a metal spoon, take a small portion of batter and shape roughly into a ball. Carefully drop it into the hot oil, and continue with the rest of the batter, frying them in batches to as not to overcrowd. Deep-fry for 3 to 4 minutes or until the pakoras are cooked and have a crunchy, evenly browned exterior. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately while still hot.
NOTE Chickpea flour, also known as besan, is a finely ground flour made from chickpeas (chana dal). It is widely used all over India to make breads and batters for coating deep-fried vegetables and also to thicken sauces. When using chickpea flour it is crucial to sift it. Sifting gets rid of any lumps and incorporates air into the flour for a smooth texture. Chickpea flour is available in any South Asian grocery store or online (see Shopping Guide, page 155).
Mung Dal and Cucumber Salad
Kheera aur Mung Dal ka Salaad
With its crisp texture and superb combination of flavors, this salad works well with almost any Indian meal. And if you make sure all the ingredients are fresh, and then you can’t really go wrong. In Southern India, where I grew up, it is very traditional to serve this salad during festivals and ceremonies. I recall eating this salad alongside other staples like rice, rasam and pappadum on a banana leaf as part of a festival meal. Today, I particularly enjoy it with Masala-Crusted Tilapia (page 97) or Masala Lamb Chops (page 121). You can use store bought sprouted beans for a quicker version, just add double the quantity of dried beans to sprouted beans for this recipe.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 2 minutes
3 tablespoons mung beans (moong dal)
4 cucumbers (about 1 lb/500 g), peeled, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced
1/4 cup (10 g) fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), chopped
1 tablespoon shredded, unsweetened coconut (frozen, reconstituted dried, or freshly grated) (page 24)
1 fresh green chili pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon oil
1/4 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
1 Boil the mung beans in water until they split, about 20 to 30 minutes. Drain the excess water and let the mung beans cool.
2 Mix together the cucumber, boiled mung beans, fresh coriander leaves, coconut, green chili pepper, lemon juice and salt in a large mixing bowl. Set aside.
3 Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the mustard seeds. When they sputter, take the pan off the heat and stir in the yogurt. Add this mixture to the salad and toss well. Serve immediately.
Fruit Chaat
Phal ki Chaat
This cool, juicy fruit salad is all about simplicity and freshness! It’s particularly refreshing on a hot day in summer. The fruit combination listed below is one of my favorites, but you may use any tropical fruits that are available in season. Garnish with fresh pomegranate seeds if in season for a burst of color and crunchy texture.
Serves 6
Prep time: 15 minutes
1 small pineapple (about 1 lb/500 g), peeled, cored and diced
1 cup (150 g) seedless red grapes, halved
1 cup (150 g) seedless green grapes, halved
1 orange, peeled and cut into segments
1 ripe mango (about 1 lb/500 g), peeled and diced
3 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lime juice
1/4 cup (65 ml) mango juice
2 teaspoons (page 35)
4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup (50 g) pomegranate seeds, for garnish (optional) (see page 56 for tips on extracting seeds)
1 Place all the prepared fruits, lime juice, mango juice and Chaat Masala in a large bowl.
2 Toss well to mix, then sprinkle with the fresh mint leaves and pomegranate seeds, if using.
Typically, Indian meals are served family style —all dishes, including soups, are served together at the same time rather than as separate courses. However, even though soup is served with other dishes, it is supposed to be consumed first, before one proceeds with the rest of the meal. Indian soups can range from mild to heavily spiced and are eaten all year round.
In general, Indian soups tend to be thin. Whether they are lentil-, vegetable-or meat-based, they are almost never thickened with starch, unlike Western soups. The recipes for soups in this chapter are vegetarian, as is representative of Indian cuisine. Meat broths are not common in India.
Dals, on the other hand, though souplike in consistency, are much thicker than a typical western soup. They are made with dried legumes, especially lentils, and add much needed protein to a meal. Dals are eaten along with the meal, and often treated like an additional vegetable. They are also mixed with white rice to add flavor to the rice.
Dals are probably the most common and significant dishes in India—no Indian meal is complete without them. They are eaten in all parts of India in various forms ranging from spicy to mild and from vegetarian to some with meats incorporated into it to make it a complete meal.
Broccoli Soup with Walnuts
Akhroth aur Hara Phool Gobi ka Soop
Even though broccoli isn’t eaten in India, I’ve come to love its flavor. Though this easy-to-prepare recipe is basically a cream of broccoli soup, there is nothing basic about it. The exotic flavors of Indian spices give it a distinctive taste and the walnuts provide a nice crunchy contrast to the smooth texture of the soup. It can be made with light cream or, for a healthier alternative, whole or even skim milk. I like to serve this soup with Flaky Paratha Breads Stuffed with Potatoes (page 139) or Plain Naan (page 134).
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
5 green cardamom pods, crushed
One 1/2-in (1.25-cm) stick cinnamon
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter
1 small onion (about 1/4 lb/125 g), chopped
4 large cloves garlic, minced
One 1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
6 cups (500 g) broccoli florets (from 2 lbs/1 kg broccoli)
1 teaspoon Home-Style Garam Masala (page 35)
Salt, to taste
7 cups (1.75 liters) vegetable stock or water
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped walnuts, for garnish
1 Make a spice pouch by placing the peppercorns, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaf in a small piece of cheese cloth and tie the cloth closed with a knot.
2 Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, broccoli, Home-Style Garam Masala and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the vegetable stock or water and the spice pouch. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the broccoli is tender. Remove from the heat and discard the spice pouch. Let the soup cool slightly.