Authors: Hari Nayak
Makes about 1 cup (200 g)
Prep time: 5 minutes plus 1 hour for soaking
Cook time: 15 minutes
8 dried red chili peppers
1 cup (250 ml) red wine vinegar
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
1 tablespoon sugar
One 1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
20 to 25 fresh curry leaves
1/2 cup (25 g) cumin seeds
1/2 cup (25 g) coriander seeds
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
10 green cardamom pods
Two 1/2 -in (1.25-cm) cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon ground mace
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 teaspoon whole cloves
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons oil
1 Combine the dried red chili peppers, vinegar and water in a small bowl and let soak for about 2 hours.
2 Process the chili peppers and their soaking liquid, the sugar, ginger, garlic, curry leaves, spices and salt in a heavy duty food processor to make a smooth paste. Add more water if necessary.
3 Heat the oil in a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium and fry the paste for 10 to 12 minutes over medium heat until rich brownish red color. Let it cool, then store in an airtight container for about 2 months in the refrigerator or in ziplock bags for 6 months in the freezer.
Dhaba Spice
Dhaba Masala
Dhabas are small local restaurants or truck stops which are located along the highways of northern India. Dhabas generally serve delicious, heavily spiced dishes preferred by many travelers. Marinated meat, chicken, fish or cheese is given a distinct flavor with this versatile mixture of spices made famous by the dhabas.
Makes about 2/3 cup (75 g)
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
One 1/2-in (1.25-cm) stick cinnamon
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground mace
1 teaspoon salt
1 Dry roast the whole spices in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the spices from the skillet and set aside to let cool completely.
2 Grind the whole spices in an electric coffee grinder with the ground spices and salt to a fine powder. Store in an airtight jar.
Green Chili Masala
Hara Mirch Masala
Hara means green and usually made with fresh herbs like coriander leaves (cilantro) and/or mint leaves and green chili peppers. This can be used as a marinade or as dipping chutney.
Makes about 1 cup (300 g)
Prep time: 10 minutes
1/2 lb (250 g) fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), washed and drained
6 fresh green chili peppers, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons peeled and coarsely chopped fresh ginger
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 cup (50 g) shredded, unsweet ened coconut (frozen, reconstituted dried, or freshly grated) (page 24)
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lime juice
Salt, to taste
1 Remove and discard the coriander stems. Coarsely chop the leaves.
2 Place the coriander leaves, chili peppers, garlic, ginger, cumin, coconut and water in a food processor and process to a paste.
3 Transfer to a bowl. Stir in the sugar, lime juice and salt. Use immediately or refrigerate, covered, until ready to be used. This masala will keep for about 4 days in a well-sealed container in the refrigerator.
Home-Style Garam Masala
Garam Masala
Garam masala, literally “hot spice,” is the most popular spice blend used in Indian cooking. It is the basic essence of Indian cooking. There are as many versions of garam masala as there are chefs. This recipe is what I use very often in my kitchen. It is important that the spices are blended fresh as needed. Many store-bought blends aren’t roasted and tend to be very poor in flavor. Try this recipe and you will never buy a readymade version.
Makes about 2/3 cup (75 g)
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
One 1/2-in (1.25-cm) stick cinnamon
10 green cardamom pods
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
5 bay leaves
1 Dry roast the whole spices in a small skillet, over medium heat, stirring until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the spices from the skillet and set aside to let cool completely.
2 Grind the spices, with the bay leaves, in an electric spice grinder to a fine powder and store in an airtight jar for up to 4 to 6 weeks.
Chaat Masala
Chaat is a commonly used term to describe street snacks of India. These small dishes are infused with a complex blend of sweet, tangy and spicy flavors. This is always seasoned with a spice mix called chaat masala. Like any other Indian spice blends each one has their own regional variation throughout India. This spice blend is great in more than just snacks. You can use it to jazz up your salads, dressings, fresh fruit, fruit juices and grilled meats. This spice blend is easily available premixed at Indian grocery stores.
Makes about 1 1/2 cups (200 g)
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, roasted and ground
4 tablespoons dried green mango powder (amchoor)
2 tablespoons ginger powder
2 tablespoons ajwain seeds, ground (optional)
1 tablespoon finely ground sea salt, preferably black salt (kala namak), or 2 teaspoons common table salt
2 teaspoons Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground asafetida (optional)
Mix all the spices together and store in an airtight container. The shelf life is about 1 month at room temperature or about 6 months if stored in the refrigerator.
A NOTE ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS Amchoor is a green mango powder. Unripe, sour green mangoes are sliced and dried in the sun and then ground. Amchoor, a key ingredient in chaat masala, is one of the many souring agents used in Indian cooking. Ajwain (also known as ajowan caraway, carom seeds or mistakenly as bishop’s weed), is an uncommon spice except in certain areas of Asia. This small, grayish egg-shaped spice is commonly used in Indian cuisine. Raw ajwain smells almost exactly like thyme, however, it is more aromatic and less subtle in taste, as well as slightly bitter and pungent. It tastes like thyme or caraway, only stronger. It is only available in stores as a whole seed. Amchoor and ajwain are available at Indian grocery stores, specialty stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 155).
A typical Indian meal is not complete if without chutneys and other accompaniments. Chutneys add that little bit of “something extra” to every bite of a meal. They are usually made with fruits or vegetables, and are often flavored with sugar, vinegar, or yogurt or a blend of different spices. Chutneys can be sweet, sour, spicy or tangy in taste, and they can also be dry or wet.
Indian chutneys are usually freshly made each day. They generally use ingredients that are seasonal and regional. Hence, chutneys do not usually contain preservatives and are supposed to be eaten within a few days.
The word chutney means “something which is crushed,” and chutneys were traditionally made using a mortar and a pestle. However, the advent of modern cooking gadget means that we can use a food processer or a blender to easily create these wonderful accompaniments and add that “something extra” without a lot of effort.
In this chapter I have included a variety of my favorite chutneys, raitas, and other accompaniments spanning the entire range of tastes and textures. These accompaniments provide a contrasting flavor and texture that perfectly complements the meal. For example, raitas—the most common and popular Indian accompaniment—act as a coolant for curries and other fiery hot Indian dishes. No Indian meal is complete without at least one accompaniment, and fancy meals may have as many as five or more accompaniments. I’ve made suggestions throughout for pairing main dishes with accompaniments; but, I hope you have fun trying your own combinations to see what you like best.
Plum Tomato Chutney with Mustard Seeds Tamatar Sarso ki Chutney
This creation is inspired by the south Indian flavors of curry leaves and mustard seeds. I often serve this as a dip with flatbreads (pages 134–139), chips or crisped pappadum (page 55). It also goes well with Masala Lamb Chops (page 121) or Crunchy Potato and Corn Croquettes (page 52). It can be made in advance and served warm or at room temperature. I like to use red wine vinegar in this recipe, but you can use any vinegar or lemon juice as a substitute. This chutney keeps for up to one week in the refrigerator.
Makes about 1 cup (400 g)
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/4 cup (65 ml) oil
2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
5 to 6 fresh or dried curry leaves, torn
2 dried red chili peppers, broken in half
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 small red onion, minced (about
1/4 cup/50 g)
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Salt, to taste
2 plum tomatoes, chopped (about 11/2 cups/225 g)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
1 Grind the coriander, cumin and peppercorns to a fine powder in a spice or a coffee grinder.
2 Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat and add the mustard seeds, curry leaves and dried red chili peppers. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and cover the pan. When the spluttering subsides add the garlic and onion. Stir a few seconds and then add the finely ground spices, paprika and salt. Continue to cook, while stirring, another 2 minutes.
3 Add the chopped tomato, tomato paste, vinegar and water. Reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, about 10 to 15 minutes. The chutney is ready when it becomes thick and fragrant and is reduced to about 1 cup (400 g). Serve hot or cold. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Garlic and Peanut Chutney
Moong-Phalli aur Lahssun ki Chutney
There is nothing like freshly made, tangy, spiced chutney to accompany crispy snacks, breads, curries and rice dishes. Made with peanuts, garlic and tamarind, this chutney has a good sharp clean flavor. Serve this as a spread with Spicy Lamb Burgers (page 117) or alongside warm Basmati Rice with Whole Spices (page 132).
Makes 1 cup (250 g)
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
1/2 cup (75 g) roasted, unsalted peanuts
10 large cloves garlic, peeled
2 fresh green chili peppers
4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
3 tablespoons tamarind paste
1/4 cup (65 ml) water
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt, to taste
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
5 fresh or dried curry leaves
1 teaspoon sesame seeds
1 Process the peanuts, garlic, green chili peppers, and mint leaves in a food processor or a blender until minced. Add the tamarind paste, water, sugar and salt, and mix again to make a smooth purée. Add more water if needed for blending. Taste and adjust the seasonings by adding more salt, if needed, or more fresh green chili peppers, if you want it spicier.
2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds, reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. When the sputtering subsides, add the curry leaves and sesame seeds and cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. This technique is called tempering or tarhka.
3 Add the tamarind mixture to the pan and simmer over low heat for 2 minutes. Cool and serve immediately or refrigerate up to 2 weeks.
Mint Chutney
Pudine ki Chutney
This green chutney is the most popular chutney throughout India. Every household adds its own special touch and ingredients and there are hundreds of variations on this chutney. Mint chutney can be served with any Indian snacks, breads or grilled meats and poultry. This chutney can be refrigerated for up to a week or frozen up to two to three months.
Makes 1 cup (250 g)
Prep time: 10 minutes
2 to 4 medium fresh green chili peppers
2 cups (60 g) packed fresh mint leaves
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 cup (65 ml) water
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt, to taste
1 Process the chili peppers and mint leaves in a food processor or a blender until minced. Scrape the sides with a spatula. As you process, drizzle in the fresh lime juice and water and process until the chutney is smooth.
2 Add the sugar and salt. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Transfer to a bowl and serve immediately or refrigerate for future use.
South Indian Coconut Chutney
Nariyal ki Chutney
This condiment complements crispy Indian snacks, breads, pancakes, grilled fish or chicken dishes perfectly. If you cannot find fresh coconut, use either unsweetened desiccated or shredded dried coconut that has been soaked in warm water to soften. I love to eat this with split pea fritters (page 60) but it goes well with anything fried.
Makes 2 cups (600 g)
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
1 lb (500 g) shredded, unsweetened coconut (frozen, reconstituted dried, or freshly grated) (about 3 cups) (page 24)
2 fresh green chili peppers One 1/2-in (1.25-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 tablespoon tamarind paste
1 bunch fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) (about 1/4 lb/125 g), stemmed
Salt, to taste
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 dried red chili pepper, broken in half