Authors: Hari Nayak
To prolong the life span of fresh herbs, like fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) and mint, wash and dry the leaves with paper towels until the leaves are mostly, but not completely, dried. Store refrigerated, wrapped in kitchen or paper towels, in a ziplock bag.
Asafetida The dried gum like resin from a rhizome of a giant fennel-like plant. It is sold in both lump and ground forms and used in very small quantities because of its strong and pungent flavor, which is somewhat like garlic. I use and recommend the ground version because it comes mixed with rice flour and turmeric powder to mellow the flavor.
Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper This is a red powder made from grinding dried red skins of several types of chili peppers. In India, it is simply called “chili powder.” You can substitute cayenne pepper, which is commonly available in supermarkets. The Indian chili powder, which is darker in color than cayenne pepper, is available in Indian grocery stores. It adds a spicy flavor to dishes.
Bay leaves These are long, oval, pointed and smooth leaves of a hardy evergreen shrub. The leaves are dark green when fresh and turn olive green when dry. The fresh leaves are very mild and do not develop their full flavor until several weeks after picking and drying. They are often used whole, or sometimes ground in curries and rice dishes. They are an important ingredient in the Indian spice blend garam masala. Bay leaves are also a common fixture in the cooking of many European cuisines (particularly those of the Mediterranean), as well as North and South American cuisines. The bay leaf that is commonly available in North America is similar in appearance to the Indian bay leaf, but its flavor and fragrance are milder than the Indian one. If you cannot find Indian bay leaves, which are often found only in Indian grocery stores, you may use regular bay leaves as a substitute. The difference is very subtle and will not make a difference in the final result.
Cardamom The cardamom plant is native to India and Sri Lanka and is also cultivated in Guatemala, Mexico, Indonesia and other areas of southern Asia. The cardamom pods are harvested just before they are ripe and they are allowed to dry in the sun or sometimes in drying machines. There are two distinct types of cardamom pods used in Indian cooking: the small green pod and large black pod. The green pods are the most common and have exceptional flavor. I use the green pods in all the recipes in this book. Black cardamom pods are used in Indian rice and meat dishes; however, they are not as commonly available. Cardamom pods are used in almost every part of the cuisine, from savory dishes to curries and desserts. When using cardamom for desserts, the seeds are extracted from the pods and ground to a powder. For curries, stews or rice dishes, the whole pod can be added directly to the food. The sharp and bitter taste of cardamom mellows to a warming sweet taste as it cooks. The preground is more readily available than the pods in the West whereas in India, it is more typical to find the whole pod. The quality of preground cardamom is not as good as freshly grinding the seeds at home. Once the pods are opened or the seeds ground, the flavor and aroma of the cardamom are lost very quickly. I especially recommend freshly grinding the seeds for the dessert and beverage recipes, where the spice often plays a key role. For instructions on how to extract the seeds and grind them, see page 145.
Chili peppers There are more than 150 varieties of chili peppers in the world. That’s a lot to keep track, but as a general rule the smaller ones are hotter than the larger ones. The two most common chilies used in Indian cooking are the Cayenne and Thai. The cayenne pepper is green when fresh and red when dried. The Thai variety, sometimes known as “bird’s-eye,” is smaller and hotter. The Serrano chili is more widely available in the U.S. and is a good alternative to the cayenne and Thai, though it is milder. If you cannot find fresh Cayenne, Thai or Serrano chili peppers, simply use what’s available. Fresh chilies are one of the most important ingredients for providing pungency in Indian cuisine. In many regions in India fresh green chili peppers are served raw with the food. Often I like to remove the inner membrane and seeds and use only the skin to reduce the heat. Chopping a fresh chili releases capsaicin, and the finer you chop it, the hotter the taste. Sometimes I slit the chilies open, but leave the seeds intact, to release a gentler heat. Dried red chili peppers are about 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) long, and are usually added to hot oil to infuse their strong flavor into the oil. A quick contact with hot oil enhances and intensifies the flavor of the skins. The Indian dried red chilies are similar to most common types such as the cayenne and chili de arbol. Dried red pepper flakes are made from hot dried red peppers. Red pepper flakes are generally not made of one type of chili, but from various combinations of ancho, bell, cayenne and more. Often there is a high ratio of seeds, which intensifies the heat of the pepper. The flakes are not very commonly used in traditional Indian cooking. I use them often to intensify my sauces and stir-fry dishes.
Cinnamon This highly fragrant spice is the dried inner bark of the laurel tree. It is an important ingredient in Indian cooking, imparting a pleasant aroma to foods. It is sold in powder and stick forms. The whole sticks are used to flavor meats, curry dishes and rice dishes as well as teas.
Coconut milk, coconut meat, shredded coconut In my recipes I use coconut milk, coconut meat and shredded coconut. Coconut milk is produced by crushing the thick white coconut meat that is inside the dark brown coconut shell with water. It is then drained and the soaked coconut meat is squeezed to extract the liquid. As the milk sits, the fat rises to the surface. This fat is skimmed off and sold separately as coconut cream. The cream is much richer and thicker than the milk. Coconut milk and coconut cream are both sold in cans. When using coconut milk for savory recipes, make sure it is not sweetened. Sweetened milk or cream is used in making pastries and cocktails. I prefer to used full-fat coconut milk rather than the “lite” version, which is not as flavorful or creamy. Before opening a can of coconut milk make sure to shake it well as the cream will have risen to the top; shaking the can incorporate the cream into the thinner milk-like liquid to create a smooth, even consistency. Once the can is opened make sure you store it in the refrigerator covered and use it within 2 to 3 days, as it spoils quickly. Packaged shredded coconut (sometimes called “grated”) is available frozen, which is the next best option to freshly grated, and dried, or “desiccated.” For the recipes in this book, be sure to purchase unsweetened shredded coconut. While dried unsweetened coconut is easy to find in most supermarkets or health food stores, frozen shredded coconut is available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores. The dried shredded coconut, however, has significantly less flavor than the frozen or fresh forms and does not give the creamy texture that is desired in Indian curries and stews. If you only have access to dried, unsweetened shredded coconut, soak ½ cup (50 g) of the dried coconut in ½ cup (125 ml) of boiling water for about 15 minutes. Drain the excess water before use. Note that ½ cup of dried coconut is comparable to 1 cup of freshly shredded or frozen shredded coconut. Freshly shredded, or grated, coconut will provide the best flavor and texture in Indian dishes. This requires purchasing a coconut and whacking it apart at home. Here is how to grate fresh coconut at home: Start with a clean looking coconut without cracks or any over powering or rancid smell. It should feel heavy and full of water. You can shake the coconut to hear the water swish. Place the coconut on a clean heavy wooden cutting board or a clean concrete block. Holding the coconut in one hand, tap the coconut lightly on all sides with a hammer to dislodge the insides from the hard brown shell. Then carefully but forcefully hit the shell with the hammer to break it open. Now most of the hard shell should separate from the coconut. Carefully pry off the meat from the brown outer shell with the tip of a well rounded blunt knife. Grate the coconut meat using a handheld grater or cut it into thin slices for Kerala Coconut Beef (page 116).
Coriander leaves Also known as “cilantro,” the leaves of this plant, an annual in the parsley family, is one of the most commonly used herbs in Indian cuisine. This herb is generally used uncooked for garnishes, marinades and chutneys. Many dishes also incorporate fresh coriander leaves at various stages of cooking, which dissipates the sharp flavor and aroma of the herb, leaving a mild flavor. Fresh coriander leaves is highly perishable and prone to wilting. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 22.
Coriander seeds Coriander seeds are ribbed peppercorn-sized and-shaped, pale green to light brown–colored seeds of the coriander (cilantro) plant. They are extremely aromatic, with a spicy hint; yet, taste and aroma is nowhere similar to the leaves of the coriander plant. I always keep them in little quantities in airtight containers, as they lose their flavor with exposure and age. Coriander seeds are also available in a preground form.
Cucumbers Cucumbers are widely used in Indian kitchens and can be served with any Indian meal. Cucumbers can always be found in my refrigerator and are a summertime favorite. The cooling, clean flavor matches well with foods like chilies, coriander leaves (cilantro), cream, garlic, lemon, lime, mint, olive oil, onions, sour cream, tomatoes, vinegar and yogurt. I like to cut them into little finger-sized wedges and serve it with a sprinkle of salt, black pepper, Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper and a heavy dose of freshly-squeezed lemon juice. When purchasing cucumbers, look for smooth, brightly-colored skin. Cucumbers keep well in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to ten days. I prefer to use the long seedless variety called “English” cucumbers. They are usually sold shrinkwrapped and they aren’t actually seedless—the seeds are just very small. These cucumbers can be eaten without peeling and seeding unlike the common garden-variety salad cucumber.
Cumin seeds These seeds are the best-known and most widely used spice in Indian cuisine. They are either fried whole in hot oil or dry roasted and then used whole or finely ground, according to the recipe. Cumin is warm, intense, and has an almost nutty aroma.
Curry leaves, fresh and dried Curry leaves originate from the Kari tree, a sub-tropical tree native to India. They are used similarly to how bay leaves are used— mainly used as an aromatic and flavoring for most curries and soups. They are widely used in dishes along the southern coastal regions of India. When starting a curry or soup dish, curry leaves are placed in hot oil to fry until crisp, which makes the oil and the leaves intensely flavorful. It is common to use fresh curry leaves in India rather than dried. You can purchase fresh curry leaves in Indian grocery stores. Dried curry leaves can be purchased from specialty gourmet stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 155). The best way to store fresh curry leaves is to wash and pat them mostly dry with paper towels. Store refrigerated, wrapped in kitchen or paper towels in ziplock bags. They will stay fresh for up to a month. For extended use, air dry them completely and store in an airtight container.
Dried legumes (lentils, dried beans and peas) In India, all types of dried legumes, be they lentils, peas or beans, are known as dal. They are an integral part of Indian meals, being economical, highly nutritious, very low in fat and a good source of carbohydrates, proteins, fibers, minerals and vitamins. Dals are a good substitute for meat, which has more fat and cholesterol. Many common varieties of dals, like chickpeas (kabuli chana), kidney beans (rajmah), whole green lentils (sabut moong) and cow peas (black-eyed peas), are available in conventional supermarket. Some not-so-common varieties that are used in Indian cooking include split pigeon peas (toor dal), split black gram, aka “black lentils” (urad dal), green lentils or mung beans (moong dal), split red lentils (masoor dal) and split yellow peas (chana dal). To procure these, a trip to an Indian grocery store or an online purchase is necessary (see Shopping Guide, page 155).
Dal dishes come in various forms—thin and soupy (Fiery South Indian Tomato Soup, page 67), thick and creamy (Spicy Urad Beans, page 70), hearty and comforting (Red Kidney Bean Curry, page 75)—and may be the basis of a salad (Mung Dal and Cucumber Salad, page 62) or an integral part of a steamed rice dish (Black-Eyed Peas and Rice, page 127).
There is nothing more comforting and soulful than a bowl of dal topped with some steamed rice. I incorporate dals into my everyday meals—both Indian and non-Indian. I cook my dried legumes the old fashioned way in my kitchen using a pressure cooker. Though this technique is not so popular in North America and Europe, I urge you to give pressure cooking a try: it uses less liquid, has faster cooking times and the food retains all the vitamins and minerals. Once you get used to a pressure cooker I can assure you that you will be eating more dals as part of your daily meals, especially the longer-cooking types. In anticipation that not everyone will have a pressure cooker, or be inclined to use one, the recipes in this book call for common kitchenware, such as saucepans or pots. If you want to experiment with a pressure cooker, simply follow the instructions provided with it; you will find that cooking time is reduced by more than 50 percent!
I often stock my pantry with canned legumes, which I find to be an acceptable substitute for dried and very convenient to use when I’m in a rush. In the dal recipes in this book, I include the option of using commonly available canned peas or beans. Make sure to drain and rinse them thoroughly before using them.
Fennel seeds These are the oval pale greenish-yellow seeds of the common fennel plant, a member of the parsley family. They are sweetly aromatic and have an aniselike flavor. In Indian cooking, they are used whole and ground in both sweet and savory dishes. Roasted fennel seeds are sometimes sugarcoated and chewed as a digestive and mouth freshener after Indian meals. They are easily available in most grocery stores.
Fenugreek leaves Known as methi when fresh and kasoori methi when dried, these leaves are extensively used in Indian cuisine. The slightly perfumed and bitter flavor of the leaves goes very well with curries. The leaves are sold fresh when in season or dried in packets year-round in Indian markets. The dried leaves can also be purchased online (see Shopping Guide, page 155). Frozen chopped fenugreek greens are also now available at some Indian grocery stores. I use the dried version—kasoori methi—in the recipes in this book because of its unique flavor and strong taste. In comparison, fresh methi (young leaves and sprouts of fenugreek) has a very mild flavor. When fresh, the leaves are eaten as greens and are commonly cooked with potatoes, spinach and paneer and eaten with roti or naan. The dried leaves have a bitter taste and strong aroma and are used in small amounts to flavor dishes. There is no real substitute for this ingredient in Indian recipes, and so I have made its use optional throughout the book.