Patsy's Italian Family Cookbook (9 page)

2.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes.

3.
Stir in the tomato sauce, stock, and beans and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer to blend the flavors, about 4 minutes.

4.
Stir in the cooked pasta and parsley and cook just until the pasta is heated through, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Peas and Macaroni Soup

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

My Aunt Anna loved this soup. If your kitchen is reasonably well stocked (and in most Italian American kitchens, prosciutto is a staple), then you can make this soup in a few minutes. But, she also did a variation with lots more pasta (usually broken linguine) cooked for about 30 minutes or so until the pasta was very thick and soft.

4 ounces small soup for pasta, such as tubetti or small shells

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

2 medium scallions, white and green parts finely chopped

½ cup ¼-inch dice prosciutto

4 cups
Chicken Stock
or reduced-sodium store-bought chicken broth

2 cups fresh or frozen peas

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.
Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Drain well.

2.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook, stirring often, until its fat is translucent, about 5 minutes.

3.
Add the stock, peas, and pasta and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and partially cover the pot. Simmer until the soup is thick and the pasta is soft, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve hot.

Chicken Stock

MAKES ABOUT 3 QUARTS

My grandfather never would have used canned chicken broth, and we make our stock from scratch. But I wonder if he tried some of the canned broths today if he would feel the same way, so feel free to use your favorite reduced-sodium brand in these recipes, if you wish. Here’s how to make a big batch of chicken broth—make room in the freezer for a couple of quarts.

3 pounds chicken backs and wings

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped

1 medium celery rib, coarsely chopped

2 dried bay leaves

5 whole black peppercorns

Salt

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.

2.
Toss the chicken backs and wings with the oil in a very large metal roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken over and continue roasting until the chicken is well browned, about 15 minutes more.

3.
Transfer the chicken to a large pot. Drain off the fat from the roasting pan and place the pan over medium heat. When the pan is sizzling, pour in water and bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits in the pan with a wooden spoon. Pour into the pot. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Add enough cold water to cover the mixture by 1 inch.

4.
Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off the foam that rises to the surface. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, until the stock is well flavored, at least 2 and up to 4 hours.

5.
Strain the stock through a large sieve into a large bowl: discard the solids. Let the stock cool until tepid. (If you want to speed this along, place the bowl in a large pan and surround the bowl with ice water. Skim off any yellow that that rises to the surface. Use immediately, or cool, cover, and refrigerate. (The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen in airtight containers for up to 3 months.)

Pavese Soup

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I have no idea why this soup is named after Pavia, a town in Northern Italy. Are they known for eggs? I wonder, because this soup was originally served with a poached egg, although now we serve it with a fried egg, which is much easier. This is the kind of meal that Patsy would make after a long night at the restaurant, with ingredients he had on hand. This soup is best cooked with homemade broth.

4 thick-cut (½-inch) slices Italian bread, toasted

6 cups
Chicken Stock
or reduced-sodium store-bought chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil (not extra-virgin)

4 large eggs

4 tablespoons
Tomato Sauce

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for sprinkling

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for sprinkling

1.
Place a slice of bread in each soup bowl.

2.
Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and keep warm.

3.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, crack the eggs into the skillet and cook, spooning the oil over the whites, just until the whites are set, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer each egg to a bowl and place on the bread.

4.
For each serving, ladle about 1½ cups of stock around the egg-topped bread. Dot 1 tablespoon of tomato sauce over the egg. Sprinkle with the parsley and grated cheese. Serve hot.