Pie and Pastry Bible (58 page)

Using a floured pastry cloth and rolling pin sleeve, or two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap, roll the pasty
inch thick or less and large enough to cut a 13-inch circle. Use an expandable flan ring or a cardboard template and a sharp knife as a guide to cut out the circle. Transfer it to the pie pan and tuck the over-hanging pastry under itself. If desired, reroll the scraps, chill, and cut out decorative designs such as leaves. (Bake them separately on a small baking sheet at 400°F. for 6 to 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove to a rack to cool.)

Cut the border into a checkerboard design or use a fork or spoon to make a high raised border or extend it over the sides of the pan, as it will not hold up baked so close to the heat source. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 1 and up to 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Plan to bake directly on the floor of the oven, or set an oven shelf at the lowest level and place a baking stone or cookies sheet on it before preheating.

Process the gingersnaps and pecans until finely ground. Sprinkle them over the bottom of the pie crust and, using your fingers and the back of a spoon, press them into the dough to coat the entire bottom, going about ½ inch up the sides.

MAKE THE PUMPKIN FILLING

In a small heavy saucepan, stir together the pumpkin, brown sugar, spices, and salt. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a sputtering simmer, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes or until thick and shiny.

Scrape the mixture into a food processor and process for 1 minute. With the motor on, and the milk and cream, processing until incorporated. Scrape the sides of the work bowl. Add the eggs one at a time, processing just to incorporate, about 5 seconds after each addition; add the vanilla along with the last egg.

Pour the mixture into the pie shell and set it directly on the floor of the oven (or on the baking stone). Bake the pie for 50 to 60 minutes or just until a knife inserted between the sides and center comes out almost clean. The filling will have puffed and the surface dulled, except for the center. (The filling will shake like jelly when moved. This will happen before it has finished baking, so it cannot be used as a firm indication of doneness; conversely, if it does not have this jelly-like consistency, you can be sure that it is not baked adequately.) If the crust appears to be darkening too much on the bottom, raise the pie to the next rack. After 30 minutes, protect the edges with a foil ring (see page 19).

Place the baked pie on a rack to cool. When cool, the surface will be flat. If you have made decorative designs, place them on it now.

VARIATION

MINI PUMPKIN PIELETS
This filling is enough to make four 4¼-inch pielets. There will be about 6 tablespoons left over, which can be baked in a small custard cup in a water bath for the same time as the pielets. You will need 8½ ounces (240 grams) of dough. Divide the dough into quarters, roll each pieces of dough 1/16 inch thick and large enough to cut a 7½-inch circle, and proceed as above.

Bake the pielets, preferably directly on the bottom of the oven, or on a baking stone set on the lowest shelf, in a preheated 375°F. oven for 35 minutes or until they test done as above.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 3 days.

UNDERSTANDING

Canned pumpkin purée is more consistent in flavor and texture than homemade.

The crust border should not be too raised or extend past the pie plate because when baked so close to the heat source, and at the lower temperature requiered for the custard filling, a raised border would not set quickly enough and would droop over the edge and break off. Since the border does not extend past the edge, it is not necessary to shield the edges until after 30 minutes, instead of the usual 15 minutes for a one-curst pie.

Characteristics star-burst cracking is the result of overbaking. If desired, cover any crack(s), should they develop, with baked pastry cutouts.

BANNER BANANA CREAM PIE

T
his visually appealing pie also has great mouth-filling texture: chunks of sweet bananas and billowing creaminess set in a crunchy cookie crust.

The pie features a large quantity of thick banana slices with just enough pastry cream filling to bind them together. I have added a layer of whipped cream for contrast on the top. For an extra fancy touch, crown it with curls of white chocolate.

SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
* If making the pie a day ahead, it is preferable to brush the baked shell with white chocolate (see page 627) to keep it crisp. You will need to melt about 3 ounces and will have about ounce left over. Chill the chocolate-brushed shell until the chocolate has hardened before filling it.
‡Replacing 1 cup of the cream with 1 cup Cræme Fraîche (page 558) makes a lilting variation.
‡Replace the half-and-half with half heavy cream and half milk.
Sweet Cookie Tart Crust (page 56) or Sweet Cream flaky Pie Crust (page 25) for a 10-inch pie, prebaked*	1 generous cup	10.75 ounces 13.6 ounces	307 grams 390 grams
freshly squeezed orange juice	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	30 grams
freshly squeezed lemon juice	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	16 grams
6 ripe but firm medium bananas (7 inches long)		34 ounces	964 grams
Topping heavy cream†	2 liquid cups	16.25 ounces	464 grams
optional: Cobasan (see page 644)	½ rounded teaspoon	•	•
sugar	2 tablespoons	approx. 0.5 ounce	12.5 grams
pure vanilla extract	2 teaspoons	0.25 ounce	8 grams
Pastry Cream (page 560)‡	1½ cups	11.3 ounces	325 grams
optional: Cræme de Banana (banana liqueur)	2 tablespoons	1.2 ounces	34 grams
optional garnish: white chocolate curls (page 617)	•	6 ounces	170 grams

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch pie pan

Make the dough (page 56 or 25). Roll, shape if using the cookie crust, and transfer it to the pan and prebake it (see pages 50-54. If using the flaky crust, roll (see page 8), shape (see page 13), and prebake it (see page 18). Let cool.

Chill a large bowl for whipping the cream. In a medium bowl, place the orange and lemon juices. Peel and slice the bananas ½ inch thick. You will have almost 4 cups (20.3 ounces/577 grams). Add them to the juices and toss lightly to coat them.

MAKE THE TOPPING

In the cold bowl, combine the heavy cream, optional Cobasan, and sugar and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Add the vanilla and optional creæme de banane and beat until stiff peaks form.

Remove ¼ cup of the whipped cream and fold it into the cold pastry cream.

Drain the bananas and dry them on paper towels. Gently fold them into the pastry cream mixture. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pie shell.

Mound the remaining whipped cream on the surface of the pie, using a rubber spatula to make generous swirls.

If desired, using a wooden skewer to lift them, gently place the chocolate curls on the whipped cream. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 1 day. (If the crust is brushed with white chocolate and the whipped cream is stabilized, it will keep for 2 to 3 days.)

UNDERSTANDING

I am indebted to baker and cookbook author Jim Dodge for the idea of cutting the intensity of the lemon juice with orange juice providing sufficient liquid to protect the banana slices but less acidity. Coating the bananas with the juices prevents oxidation, or browning.

CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE

T
he mere sight of this pie weakens my resolve! The filling is a satiny-rich chocolate pudding, the crust a flaky butter crust made with heavy cream to make it incredibly tender and light. An optional garnish of dark chocolate curls and a few bright red raspberries makes this a stunningly sumptuous dessert.

SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*If making the pie a day ahead, it is preferable to brush the baked shell with white chocolate (see page 627) to keep it crisp. You will need to melt about 3 ounces and will have about ounce left over. Chill the chocolate-brushed shell until the chocolate has hardened before filling it.
Sweet Cream Flaky Pie Crust, for a 9-inch pie (page 25), prebaked*		12 ounces	340 grams
Filling 2 large eggs	(4cups) 3 fluid ounces	(38 ounces) 3.5 ounces (1076 grams) 100 grams (weighed without the shells)
unsweetened cocoa, preferably Dutch-processed	¼ cup (lightly spooned)	approx. 1 ounce	24 grams
cornstarch	3 tablespoons	1 ounce	28 grams
milk	3 liquid cups, divided	25.5 ounces	726 grams
sugar	cup	4.6 ounces	132 grams
salt a pinch	•	•
fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, grated or chopped	two 3-ounce bars	6 ounces	170 grams
unsalted butter	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	28 grams
pure vanilla extract	1 teaspoon	•	•
Topping heavy cream	1 liquid cup	8 ounces	232 grams
optional: Cobasan (see page 644)	¼ rounded teaspoon	•	•
sugar	1 tablespoon	approx. 0.5 ounce	12.5 grams
pure vanilla extract	1 teaspoon	•	4 grams
optional garnish: chocolate curls (page 617) and fresh raspberries	• ¼ cup	3 ounces 1 ounce	85 grams 28 grams