Pie and Pastry Bible (61 page)

MAKE THE GLAZE

In a small saucepan, combine the lemon juice, water, sugar, and cassava (or cornstarch or arrowroot) and stir until the sugar and starch are dissolved. Heat the mixture over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. With arrowroot,
this will happen before the boiling point; with cassava, it will start to thicken within a few seconds of reaching the full boil; with cornstarch, the mixture needs to simmer for 30 seconds to 1 minute after reaching the boiling point. Immediately pour the glaze into a heatproof glass measure or bowl. Using a pastry brush or feather, brush the glaze onto the figs. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before unmolding (see page 251).

VARIATION

For an eggless version of the filling, which is somewhat less airy and a shade less delicious, decrease the sugar to 2 tablespoons and briefly whisk it together with the softened mascarpone. Prepare the gelatin and whipped cream as above. Fold it together with the marsala into the mascarpone mixture. (Makes 1½ cups.)

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 2 days.

UNDERSTANDING

This filling is actually very similar to Bavarian cream. The difference is that about two thirds the volume of thick, slightly tangy mascarpone, which is a triple cream cheese, replaces the usual milk, so no gelatin is required to thicken the filling. A very small amount, however, is used to make the filling firm enough to withstand the pressure of cutting through the figs.

Double the cornstarch, cassava, or arrowroot normally used is needed for the glaze because of the high acidity of the lemon juice.

TIRAMISÙ BLACK BOTTOM TART

T
iramisù, Italian for “pick me up,” consists of savoiardi biscuits dipped in strong espresso, topped with a gloriously rich custard of egg yolks, mascarpone, and marsala, and sprinkled with cocoa.

This version has the same luscious filling but is contained in a sweet cookie crust lined with melted chocolate. The crust adds an extra dimension, providing a desirable container and foundation for the creamy, custardy, voluptuous texture of the classic tiramisù. Instead of the usual dried biscuits, a slim round layer of sponge cake (store-bought or homemade) serves as the sponge to hold the coffee syrup. This is an impressive and fabulous dessert, raising “pick me up” to a new level.

SERVES: 10 TO 12
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Either yellow or chocolate. You can replace this with commercial packaged angel food or sponge cake.
Sweet Cookie Tart Crust for a 10-inch tart (page 57), prebaked, cooled, and painted with 2 ounces of bittersweet chocolate (see page 56)	1 generous cup	10.75 ounces	307 grams
Filling 4 large egg yolks	2¼ fluid ounces	2.6 ounces	75 grams
sugar	6 tablespoons, divided	2.6 ounces	75 grams
sweet marsala	2 tablespoons, divided	1 ounce	28 grams
Medaglia d’Oro instant espresso powder	4 teaspoons	•	5 grams
water	liquid cup + 1 tablespoon, divided	6 ounces	173 grams
pure vanilla extract	1 teaspoon, divided	•	•
one 8½- to 9-inch by ¼-inch Light Sponge Cake Layer (page 583)*		•	•
mascarpone, preferably imported, at room temperature	1 cup	8.75 ounces	250 grams
gelatin	1 teaspoon	•	3 grams
heavy cream	½liquid cup	4 ounces	116 grams
Garnish 2 ounces of chocolate curls (page 617) or 2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa	•	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 57). Roll, shape, and transfer it to the pan and prebake it (see page 50-54). Let cool, then brush it with the chocolate (see page 56).

MAKE THE FILLING

Chill a small mixing bowl for the whipped cream.

Have ready near the range a rubber scraper and medium bowl.

In a large copper bowl or the upper container of a double boiler, whisk together the egg yolks, 3 tablespoons of the sugar, and 1½ tablespoons of the marsala. If using a copper bowl, set it directly on the burner over low heat. If using a double boiler, place the upper container over simmering water (the water should not touch the bottom of the upper container). Whisk constantly until the mixture approximately triples in volume and begins to thicken, 3 to 5 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the yolks, or they will scramble!

Immediately scrape the mixture into the medium bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or until completely cool.

Meanwhile, prepare the espresso syrup: In a small saucepan, stir together the espresso powder, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and
cup of the water. Bring it to a boil, stirring constantly to dissolve the espresso and sugar. Remove it from the heat and add
cup more water, ½ teaspoon of the vanilla, and the remaining 1½ teaspoons of marsala.

Place the cake layer on a sheet of plastic wrap and brush the top with half the syrup. Cover it with plastic wrap and set it aside.

In a large mixer bowl, preferably with the whisk beater, on low speed, beat the mascarpone for about 10 seconds or until creamy. Raise the speed slightly and gradually beat in the cooled egg yolk mixture until completely incorporated, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula. Set it aside.

In a small heatproof measuring cup, place the gelatin and the remaining 1 tablespoon of water and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Set the cup in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until the gelatin is dissolved (or microwave it on high power for a few seconds, stirring once or twice). Set it aside briefly while you beat the cream. (The mixture must still be warm, or it will lump when added to the cold cream; reheat it if necessary.)

In the chilled mixing bowl, combine the heavy cream and the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar. Beat until the cream begins to thicken. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon of vanilla extract and the warm gelatin mixture and beat just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

With a large rubber spatula, quickly fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone mixture (you will have about 3 cups). Spoon half of this mixture into the
prepared tart crust, spreading it evenly with an offset spatula. Place the cake layer, syrup side down, on top. Brush with the remaining syrup. Spread the remaining mascarpone cream evenly on top. Garnish with the chocolate curls and/or dust with cocoa by placing the cocoa in a fine strainer held over the surface of the tart and stirring the cocoa with a spoon. Refrigerate the tart to set for at least 3 hours before serving.

Allow the tart to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before unmolding (see page 251).

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 5 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

The whipped cream must be folded into the mascarpone mixture quickly, and as soon as it has been prepared, because the gelatin will begin to set, making even blending difficult.

UNDERSTANDING

The chocolate layer painted onto the crust moisture-proofs it and keeps it crunchy.

SHOOFLY PIE

H
aving lived near the Pennsylvania Dutch country for several years, I have sampled many versions of this eggless gingerbread cake within a pie crust, but this one, from the food historian Will Weaver, is in a class by itself. The bottom of the filling has a nice gooey layer and then it metamorphoses into a very moist cakey top. The filling contains both coffee and spices, additions that balance the sweetness of the molasses while giving it a depth of flavor.

Shoofly pie is a pie with a history. Will’s recipe is from his grandmother, who got it in the 1930s from the label on a bottle of Shoofly molasses. The recipe was the creation of a Mrs. Miles Fry of Ephrata, Pennsylvania. In researching his book
Pennsylvania Dutch Country Cooking
(Abbeville, 1993), Will discovered that it was one of the original recipes handed out at the U.S. Centennial in Philadelphia in 1876. His grandmother, now ninety-seven years old, carries the recipe in her purse so she can be ready to make it on demand!

Traditionally, shoofly pie is served at breakfast as a coffee cake. Still warm from the oven and served with a scoop of coffee ice cream or a dollop of coffee whipped cream on top to complement the coffee in the filling is my favorite way to enjoy this pie.