Romancing the Roads

Romancing

the

Roads

Romancing

the

Roads

A Driving Diva’s Firsthand Guide

Volume II: West of the Mississippi

Gerry Hempel Davis

TAYLOR TRADE PUBLISHING

Lanham
•
New York
•
Boulder
•
Toronto
•
Plymouth, UK

Published by Taylor Trade Publishing

An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.

4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706

http://www.rlpgtrade.com

Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom

Distributed by NATIONAL BOOK NETWORK

Copyright © 2012 by Gerry Hempel Davis

All rights reserved
. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Davis, Gerry Hempel.

Romancing the roads : a driving diva’s firsthand guide, volume II : weat of the Mississippi / Gerry Hempel Davis.

p. cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-1-58979-639-3 (pbk. : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-1-58979-640-9 (electronic)

1. Automobile travel—West (U.S.) 2. Women automobile drivers—West (U.S.) 3. Women travelers—West (U.S.) 4. West (U.S.)—Description and travel. I. Title.

GV1024.D39 2011

917.8—dc23

2011023161

™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.

Printed in the United States of America

Acknowledgments

A
s
with every book I write, I must first acknowledge my family: sons, Clint and Mark; daughters-in-law, Chris and Michelle; grandchildren, Olivia, Sawyer, Heyden, and Alex. I thank them for their enthusiasm, their queries, and for being there.

–––––

Thanks also to Rick Rinehart, publisher, who is receptive to my ideas even though some are loopy or truly not feasible. He is tactful and thoughtful. I thank him for believing in my literary pursuits. We have had some interesting times and have books to show for our endeavors.

–––––

To each person—and there are a hundred or so from coast to coast—who helped me: Thank you. I could not have accumulated so much data without your support. I enjoyed each and every one of you and look forward to keeping in touch.

Thanks and appreciation go to Janice Braunstein, Flannery Scott, and Jennifer Kelland Fagan. These talented and dedicated females do so much in getting a book in hand.

Introduction

West
of the Mississippi is very different than east of that same body of water. Not that one is better—indeed no—but different, yes. One must do the West at least once. You will not forget it.

I have either been to every place included in this volume or I inform the reader if I have not. Whether you are driving miles on the straightest road imaginable or standing on the rim of the Grand Canyon or buying a trinket at a truck stop or seeing something you had only read about, I promise you will not be disappointed, and you will definitely be enriched. There have been changes and closings, and I wish you all well.

Ultra hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, restaurants of every variety, shops (consignment too), and so much more are all included. Several national parks are described, but it is hard to put into words these totally awesome places. “Awesome” is an understatement; add unbelievable. Towns—medium, large, tiny, or just a dot—are described, and there is a megalopolis or two.

Whether you actually take a drive or just see via the words the places I describe, I hope you enjoy. This book is not only for the road warrior but for the armchair traveler. Let us start our trip. . . . Repeat:
Even if you can’t go, you can know
. Enjoy!

Louisiana

New Orleans

One
hears so much about New Orleans and its famous
French Quarter
, but even before the devastating hurricanes of 2005, it didn’t seem to me to be particularly well managed. A simple thing like cleaning up the streets would have been a step in the right direction, and following Katrina, it took far too long to clean up the debris. Everybody should have pitched in more vehemently and with more enthusiasm and determination. The French Quarter escaped a lot of Katrina’s fury.

Soniat House

1133 Chartres St.

800-544-8808

www.soniathouse.com

I’m happy to report this special property is alive and well. The Soniat House is actually in two parts—one on each side of the street—distinguished by green shutters and filigreed wrought iron accents. It was created over twenty years ago by combining three historic Creole townhouses. Owners Rodney and Frances Smith developed this fabulous property. Their good taste, creativity, and respect for old-world charm have made the Soniat House the very admirable and distinguished place that it is today.

It is easy to see how this charming property came to receive accolades from such disparate sources as
Time
magazine and
Architectural Digest
. The main building has two large green doors that open onto a courtyard that extends to the middle of the property. Slightly down and off to the side is a small room where you check in. Adjacent is a living room where you can sit and enjoy a drink from the honors bar.

My room (or suite, rather) was in the building across the street behind a locked gate and toward the middle of the back courtyard. From the moment I entered, I found the living room, bedroom, and bath pleasant, relaxing, and very attractive.

One cannot mention the Soniat House without mentioning (1) Calvin, who helped me with my bags and gave me general information about the Soniat as well as where to eat; (2) Jessie, a porter, and (3) Clarice the Cat.

Once settled, I headed out for a brief tour of the French Quarter, ending up at the French Market.

French Market

Decatur and Saint Peter’s streets

504-522-2621

www.frenchmarket.org

At the French Market, I saw a lot of people trying to sell the same things: beads upon beads, sunglasses, and stacks of trinkets. Somehow it must work, because no one looks to be starving.

Driving Diva Alert:
You won’t want to wear thin heels, or perhaps any heels, in the French Quarter. The streets aren’t cobblestone, they’re just plain uneven.

A Travel Serendipity:
The gentleman who helped me with my bags at the hotel, Calvin, recommended a nearby restaurant for dinner. When I couldn’t find it, I stopped a woman laden with several large boxes. I think she was delighted to have a reason to stop and put the boxes down. I asked her for directions, and as we continued to talk, we introduced ourselves. She, Carole Lovelace, is founder and president of
Ladies Day Fund Inc
.
(www.ladiesdayfund.com), which gives financial aid to Delta Flight attendants who are seriously ill. It turns out that the boxes were full of flower pocketbooks that were to be sold at the next event to raise money for the charity. Right there, on the corner, she showed me one. I couldn’t resist buying several! Our conversation then led to plans to get together the following morning, and we have kept in touch ever since. Ah, a serendipity of travel.

Verti Marte

1201 Royal St.

504-525-4767

www.vertimarte.com

This eatery at first looked like a questionable deli. But Calvin had recommended it, so I walked in and was greeted by a woman in casual attire. A few people were waiting in line in the back by the deli case. The place advertises
“Real Food for Real People at Real Prices.” Yes! I ordered a sandwich called “All That Jazz” and a piece of pie to go.

The sandwich was huge. Back at the hotel, Calvin greeted me and asked if I had found the place. Indeed! I offered to give him half of my All That Jazz, which he eagerly accepted. Just so you know, it was probably one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever had and a bargain, too! The most expensive item on the Verti Marte menu was $6.95 (then).

Back in my suite, I took note of a few accommodation details such as the glass-topped tables (which I think are a necessity), the roomy bathroom (though more hooks would be nice), and the sheer curtains. A bathroom window looks out onto the garden, and given the sheer curtains, when it’s is dark outside, it’s possible someone could follow your au natural shadow climbing into and out of the tub. It’s probably unlikely, but I think a shade would be appropriate. The tub knobs are labeled in French:
chaud
and
froid
—a nice touch. The lighting in general could be better.

Overall, the suite’s antique furnishings are excellent, and the Frette Egyptian cotton bed linens are fantastic to your bod, your psyche, and your dreams. The bright-red wooden hangers are terrific. (Can hangers be terrific?) They can be purchased.

The next morning I had breakfast in the main courtyard amid the garden’s variegated foliage, hanging baskets, singing birds, and the occasional cat that checked me out. I sat at a round table with a crisp white tablecloth and enjoyed a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, Creole café au lait (jolt!), and delicious hot biscuits with Soniat House strawberry preserves. What a way to start the day! Thank you!

The main commercial street in the French Quarter is
Royal
, where shops of every variety can be found. One of my first discoveries was Royal Pharmacy, which had been serving the French Quarter for over one hundred years.

Royal Pharmacy

1101 Royal St.

504-523-5401

This is a true old drugstore, with ceiling fans, small tiles on the floor, and a very congenial pharmacist.

Royal Street’s other shops offered a little bit of everything, from fine lingerie, to custom millinery, to outstanding antiques and works of art, to jewelry—you name it.

A sudden downpour drove me into Brennan’s, the famous Royal Street eatery that’s been around since 1947.

Brennan’s Restaurant

417 Royal St.

504-525-9711

www.brennansneworleans.com

The menu was a bit pricey, but, of course, you are paying not only for food but also for atmosphere and history. Maybe on the next trip I will indulge.

Driving Diva Tip:
Get the “French Quarter Self-Guided Walking Tour” brochure.

For visitor information, call 504-566-5003 or visit www.neworleanscvb.com. At the end of Royal, you leave the French Quarter and enter downtown New Orleans.

Bourbon Street

There is
only one Bourbon Street, New Orleans. This famous and infamous street has a whole lot going on. You don’t have to wait until Mardi Gras to get the vibes, the beat, the noise, the smells, the laugher, the yells—they are always there, just more so during Mardi Gras. Be sure to visit this street—even if it is just to walk and look and hear.

Places of Note

K-Paul’s

416 Chartres St.

504-524-7394

www.kpauls.com

Those who eat have, of course, heard of Paul Prudhomme, the Louisiana chef with the big smile and culinary creativity. I enjoyed eating at K-Paul’s, but I did not have enough room to taste all that I wanted to try.

The turtle soup was excellent, as was the classic shrimp étouffée. A little less smothering with brown gravy would have been my preference for my midriff. The K-Paul’s delicious house salad—which was created twenty-two years ago—has definitely remained a winner. The sweet potato pecan pie served with Chantilly cream was sinfully scrumptious.

I was given a great tour of the restaurant by Sandy Crowder, the customer service manager. The restaurant is attractive and the food is
so
Paul Prudhomme.

The menu changes daily. Appetizers start at approximately $6.95; main courses at $25.95 approximately; dessert at about $6. Attire is casual.

Tip:
Wear loose-fitting clothes, because you need space for all you will eat.

You might see “debris sauce” on the menu. What is it? It is a reduction of twenty gallons of liquids down to five gallons! It takes seventy-two hours to make. That’s three days!

How many restaurants star you? At K-Paul’s they do just that. When you finish your meal, you get a gold star if you cleaned your plate, a green star if you ate your vegetables, and a red star if you were rowdy. A paper cover on the table has cartoons informing you of the preparations for shepherd’s pie for six, a Cajun martini, and chicken and andouille gumbo. This is a good souvenir, which you are welcome to take.

Muriel’s

801 Chartres St.

504-568-1885

www.muriels.com

Muriel’s is a must-see, and that is just what I did. To me, it seemed like a real original French Quarter spot. As the advertising states, “Decadence, Opulence, Mystery.” There are five different areas: the bistro, the balcony, the soiree, the séance lounge, and the courtyard bar. As you walk around, you discover exposed-brick walls, gourmet aromas, and antiques. You quickly realize that Muriel’s is not your usual restaurant.

I was delighted to look around this unique spot. I walked up the flight or two to the séance lounge, though no one was holding one at the time. I am not sure I am ready for a séance. I have read reviews of Muriel’s, and if I am ever back in the French Quarter, a meal there is definitely on the agenda. I hear the pecan sweet potatoes are a must. Sounds good to me. I still do not think a séance is necessary.

French Quarter Discoveries

Muse Inspired Fashions

532 Saint Peter St. (Jackson Square)

504-522-8738

www.museinspiredfashion.com

This came highly recommended; then, when I looked it up, I had to include it. Go and see!

The following are some of the places I stopped in due to a rainstorm or simply because they had interesting, tempting displays.

Robinson’s Antiques

329 Royal St.

504-523-8863

Ladies’ Quarter

427 Royal St.

504-596-3000

Maximo’s Italian Grill

1117 Decatur St.

504-586-8883

www.maximosgrill.com

Rumors

58 Royal St.

504-525-0292

www.rumors.com

Lazybug

600 Rue Royal

504-524-3649

www.lazybugshops.com

M. S. Rau Antiques

630 Royal St.

504-523-5660

www.rauantiques.com

This award-winning, third-generation antique dealership has been in business since 1912. Its reputation is exemplary, as is its antique collection.

Antiques, Art, & Collectibles

811 Royal St.

504-524-6918

www.antiquesartcollectibles.com

This shop offers rare coins, toys, and the like.

Fleur de Paris

523 Royal St.

504-525-1899

www.fleurdeparis.net

Here you will find fine lingerie, custom millinery, and contemporary and couture clothing.

Kabuki

1036 Royal St.

504-523-8004

www.kabukihats.com

Kabuki offers great, brightly colored hats and other accessories. Almost everything in shop is handmade by Tracy and Maria.

Objective Eye’s Observation:
As a female visitor to the French Quarter, I would go and enjoy—wearing comfortable shoes. I would not walk around late at night alone.

Downtown New Orleans

Windsor Court

300 Gravier St.

504-523-6000

www.windsorcourthotel.com

This superb downtown New Orleans property was not difficult to find, and the circular driveway was immediately welcoming. The doorman was attentive. I could see the garage was adjacent to the front. I explained that I might need to get into my car, and the attendant said he would put it where I could walk to it and pointed to an area just inside. How fortuitous to have the garage close by and a most amenable attendant.

The Windsor Court is beautiful in appearance, attitude, and attributes. It is grand and regal and almost incongruous in its positioning in downtown New Orleans, which is not quite so immaculate. As its name suggests, it is British in many ways. Instantly, you are impressed with the antique furnishings and art that decorates the various areas and adorns almost every wall.

Check-in was efficient and female friendly; the welcome was genuine, and I am sure it is given to each guest. As of this writing, there is a new general manager, David Teich, who previously was in Charleston, South Carolina. He brought several of his colleagues with him to the Windsor Court, and their expertise is evident in what they have done to this wonderful property.

I was shown to my accommodations, which were roomy and British in detail. In the bedroom, I immediately noticed a box at the foot of my king-size bed. (When you visit as many hotels as I do, you try to notice the details that make each different.) I noticed a major switch at the side of the bed. I flipped it, and out of the box came a large TV. Later I was to discover that British TV channels are part of the programming.

My bags were delivered, and decisions for the discoveries of the day were made.

Objective Eye’s Observations—Then:
There were no glass tops on the tables—not smart. Soaps were on the vanity but not in the tub area. I was in the tub soaking and found I had no soap. I guess I should have looked before getting in. I later decided that the hair dryers were maybe the best of any hotel, perhaps because my hair “worked” each time I blew it dry at the Windsor Court. (Men, you might not understand this, but women will.)

The
Polo Club Lounge
(504-522-1994) is upscale and pleasant. The paneled walls are bold but welcoming and reflect in the long mirror behind the handsome bar. Inviting, cozy seating arrangements are well placed. Art masterpieces on the walls, as well as appropriate sculpture, all themed “polo,” decorate the lounge. Piano music subtly fills the air. (This is not true in many lounges.) Have one drink, and you might think you are in London. The Polo Lounge is open for lunch, which, when I was there, included a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. It is cigar friendly, which I presume also includes cigarettes.