Romancing the Roads (9 page)

Texas

Driving Diva Tip:
Texas is a big state and has long stretches of highway with few services. Be sure to fill the gas tank (and your stomach) whenever possible. You don’t want to be stranded or driving on an empty stomach, which can make one very drowsy.

Small-Town Stops

I-40
is good. The drive from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to
Dallas
, Texas, heading east and
then
south, can be done in a day, but it’s a long haul. In
Amarillo
, you get on U.S. 287 from I-40, a good road that takes you through some delightful and interesting towns.

Clarendon
(population approximately 2,067) offers the visitor or resident a
1929 Landmark Subs & Sodas
,
Coyote Den Books
, and the
It’ll Do Motel
.

Hedley
(population approximately 391) has tempting fruit stands. Don’t miss the big signs for peaches.

Memphis
(population approximately 2,465) has antique shops and a tearoom.

Childress
(population approximately 6,664) is the area’s point for shipping and supplies for the neighboring grain and cattle ranches. Proudly displayed as you drive through town is a sign that reads, “Hometown of Roy Cooper, Eight Times World Champion Calf Roper.” Other sights include the
Restwell Motel
(perfect name!), an
All Handmade Quilts
store, a
Dollar General Store
,
Morgan’s Catfish Diner
(at least I think that was the name), and a sign for the
Heritage Museum
. In its heyday, this must have been quite a town.

Iowa Park
(population approximately 6,000) looked at first, I thought, like cattle ranch; then my bleary eyes (it was 7 p.m.) focused on the cattle. I did a double take and laughed out loud. The cattle were camels.

Driving Diva Factoid:
The signage into Dallas could definitely be more defined. Be alert.

Dallas (Population Over 1 Million)

Dallas’s more
than 384 square miles have grown since the city’s beginning in 1839. In the 1980s
Fortune
magazine named Dallas the number one business center in the land. Driving might be a bit of a challenge for the visitor. Heading south from
Wichita Falls
, as I neared Dallas, repeat, I definitely found the signage confusing, and more would have been helpful. Several interstates and U.S. highways take you into Dallas. I am certain a few small roads, and possibly some dirt roads, also lead into the
Big D.

I am usually in Dallas in the summertime and, needless to say, have found it hot, quiet, and in some ways relaxed. This is probably due to the heat, but there is always purpose, determination, upscale demeanor, and fun in Dallas. Of course, glamour and glitz are omnipresent, and aside from the occasional street person, which is a universal concern, I have found most aspects of Dallas extremely nice, though it does help to have deep pockets. This big city has a lot of small-town ambiance, and it is hard not to have a good time here.

The downtown area is enjoying a revival after undergoing a bit of a slump. I adore this part of Dallas. Here you will find the
Adolphus Hotel
,
Neiman Marcus
, the
Dallas Art District
(www.thedallasartsdistrict.org), the
Historic West End District
(www.dallaswestend.org), and lots more. Don’t forget about all the museums, galleries, and malls. The downtown museum dedicated to the 1963 Kennedy assassination is located in the
Texas School Book Depository
, where Lee Harvey Oswald fired the fatal shots. As with most spots that have changed history, this building definitely sends chills through the body.

Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza

411 Elm St.

214-747-6660

www.jfk.org

Hotels

Adolphus Hotel

1321 Commerce St.

214-742-8200 or 800-221-9083

www.hoteladolphus.com

This grand, luxurious, and historic hotel in downtown Dallas is one of the finest hotels. It has old-world charm with class and style. It is a treasure. If—I repeat if—a hotel could be perfect, the Adolphus would certainly rank among such a rarefied group.

The Adolphus’s history starts in 1912. Woodrow Wilson was president. The Boston Red Sox won the World Series. The fourth down was added to U.S. football, and a touchdown was valued at six points. Picasso was the talk of the art world, and the Titanic sank.

The youngest of twenty-one children, Adolphus Busch (born 1839), at the age of twenty-one married, Lilly Anheuser of St. Louis. This marriage merged two names that would become indelible in the world of beers. Adolphus became a successful St. Louis businessman and was convinced by representatives of the Dallas Chamber of Commerce to build a first-rate hotel. This would be the first expansion of the
Anheuser-Busch empire outside St. Louis. There are many stories as to why this St. Louis businessman decided to build in Dallas. Some are political; some just say that he wanted to thank the people of Dallas for supporting his beer. Regardless, it was a coup for Dallas.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Architectural turrets crown the building; some say they look like beer steins. You look and see.

As you arrive at the Adolphus, you always receive a most welcoming greeting. The main desk is well attended with efficient, friendly, and knowledgeable staff. The hallways are well defined, and finding your room after the initial introduction by the bellman is easy.

The rooms are comfortable and very attractive. Of course, a property the size of the Adolphus offers many types of accommodation to choose from. You will not be disappointed.

The main floor is truly a museum of sorts. Art surrounds you on every wall, and the beautiful furniture is magnificent. The large, early Flemish tapestries are impressive. The Steinway piano is played, and sitting in this beautiful setting, it is not hard to enjoy and to reflect on life in a bygone era.

Important:
Obtain an art guide booklet, and tour the magnificent downstairs areas.

Consider enjoying Saturday afternoon tea in the lobby. A tradition at the Adolphus, it truly adds to the old-world ambiance. Tea at the Adolphus is an event. To quote one of the hotel’s announcements, which says it so well, “The perfect place to experience the decadent traditions of this classical afternoon respite.” The Adolphus offers an assorted choice of teas that complement three courses.

First course:
At least five types of miniature sandwiches

Second course:
Assorted miniature pastries

Third course:
Assorted chocolate truffles

Piano music permeates the air as you sip your tea, enjoy a scone or two, and relax in this exquisite setting. The cost is approximately $38 per person plus tax and gratuity. Tea schedules change with the holidays, so call to check the agenda.

Perfection and beauty are synonymous with the exquisite, award-winning
French Room
. From the hand-blown crystal chandeliers to the marble flooring to the period furnishings to the shining silverware, everything is beautiful. The menu is exceptional. James Donahue is the maître d’, and Marcos Segovia is the chef de cuisine. The French Room is first-rate and upscale in every way. Reservations are a must, and I was told they are often made from season to season as many guests make the French Room dining experience a tradition. To dine in the French Room is outstanding. Jackets are required for the men, and ties are optional. (I think the latter should be rescinded.) Thank goodness denim and sneakers are prohibited. The French Room is closed Sunday and Monday.

The
Bistro
,
open for breakfast and lunch, provides a special, casual ambiance that is done properly. It is beautiful, well appointed, and luxurious. You cannot help but enjoy.

The
Rodeo Bar and Grill
is so western and so Dallas, serving hamburgers, Tex-Mex favorites, barbecue, and all those good types of fare with all the trimmings. It’s open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

The Adolphus Hotel’s executive chef is Marcus Strietzel. Speak with the concierge and find out about the Adolphus’s complimentary limo service for short rides.

At any grand hotel that has maintained its prominence, credit must be given to its long-lasting staff. For over twenty years, David Davis has guided the public relations and marketing in a most exemplary fashion. He should be cloned. Kevin Henry has been resident manager for twenty-nine years, and James Donahue has been maître d’ at the French Room for twenty-five years.

There is little doubt in my mind that you will be marking off the days till you will return to the Adolphus. It is special.

The Joule

1530 Main St.

214-748-1300

www.thejouledallas.com

“Unique,” “luxurious,” and “exceptional” are just a few of the adjectives one could apply to this new downtown hotel. To me, one of the special aspects of this property is that it encompasses the 1920’s Dallas National Bank building and has an adjoining ten-story tower of 129 guest rooms and suites. To use or reuse the old in the new, I applaud. The pièce de résistance at the Joule is the cantilevered pool on the tenth floor that juts eight feet over the sidewalk! At night, this pool displays a light show from the 132 fiber-optic lights in the pool. Adam D. Tihany’s talents and creativity are seen throughout the hotel, and Charlie Palmer’s delicious gastronomical creations are enjoyed by all at his restaurant.

This property, from every syllable I have heard, is sumptuous, chic, totally enjoyable, and probably awesome. I look forward to seeing the Joule, whose name refers to a unit of energy.

Observation:
I know downtown Dallas, and I think that the Joule will spur the renaissance into overdrive.

Rosewood Crescent Hotel (formerly Hotel Crescent Court)

400 Crescent Ct.

214-871-3200

www.crescentcourt.com

Rosewood Crescent Hotel is a stately and large building with an impressive courtyard. It is definitely luxurious, big, and nice, but not extremely warm and fuzzy—but then, I don’t think Buckingham Palace is either. The attendants are well trained, and many await your arrival. Be sure to call for directions as it can be a bit confusing finding the hotel.

Driving Diva Tip:
At grand hotels, it is normal for two or three attendants to be at your side with beaming smiles to carry your bags from the car to the room. They may even park the car. Don’t be afraid to tip all the smiling faces. I believe that tips should be given to all who perform a service, be it one or seven, but not those who smile and just tag along.

Check-in was efficient. Everyone who greeted me was helpful and courteous. The lobby is large and definitely Texas-grand in decor. The lobby has marble floors, high vaulted ceilings, big columns, floor-to-ceiling windows, and limestone walls. There are impressive furnishings too.

In the lobby is
Beau’s
—obviously a place to see and possibly be seen. It is a most attractive cocktail lounge.

There are several dining choices. I am told that
Nobu
(214-252-7000) is one of the most innovative, new-style Japanese restaurants in America. There is the
Crescent Gourmet
, a convenient deli and coffeehouse—my type of place. In the morning, for breakfast and also lunch, the
Conservatory
overlooks the courtyard. A
Starbuck’s
is also on property.

This impressive property has 191 guest rooms. The bedding during my stay had a high linen thread count of 480, and the bath linens were 100 percent cotton. The living room area with a bar and TV was attractive, but the placement of the TV/entertainment center was off. In my room it was not comfortable to watch the TV, as the screen was at a strange angle to the bed.

The housekeeping staff wear smoke-gray uniforms and look upscale-professional. This attire should be copied in other upscale properties.

The
Spa at the Crescent
(214-871-3232) is exceptional with excellent service. There are over seventy-five unusual treatments. The massage rooms were comfortable and not too small. In the pedicure area, curtains can be drawn for privacy. The attendants were well trained and friendly. One of the waiting areas had a variety of teas and fresh fruit in the refrigerator to enjoy. You could also enjoy a smoothie with lavender cookies.

There is a large outdoor pool with lounging facilities on the second floor. It was well done, although when I was there, there were city noises in the background, but they were not too objectionable.

The Rosewood Crescent Hotel is an upscale experience, where security is to the max, and the property is delightful—just what you would expect and more from Rose
wood Hotels and Resorts.

One of my favorite on-property places was
Lady Primrose’s Shopping English Countryside
(decorative arts galore) and
Lady Primrose’s Thatched Cottage Pantry
. The owners have retired, which is good for them and bad for us. Lady
Primrose bath products are still used at the hotel and can be purchased at the
Spa Boutique
.

Magnolia Hotel

1401 Commerce St.

214-915-6500

www.magnoliahoteldallas.com

Located in downtown Dallas, this hotel is situated in the former Pegasus Building, which served as the headquarters for the Magnolia Oil Corporation. On top of the building, the flying red horse logo has returned as a beacon for all. When built, it was the tallest building in downtown Dallas. The Magnolia Hotel is convenient to downtown with all of its attractions and, of course,
Neiman Marcus
. The hotel is modern in decor, although many of the original features have been kept. The beautiful marble floor in the lobby, the art deco staircase, the ornate woods, and the high ceilings are each impressive in their own right. Together, they make for a grand presentation.

Check-in was pleasant and the staff most obliging. The two hundred rooms are nice and attractive—no glitz, which was all right by me. The rooms have everything the traveler might need. Some of the suites have full kitchens, which is particularly convenient for longer stays. (Who wants to eat out every night?) The rates are sensible. There is onsite parking and a complimentary breakfast. Each evening there is complimentary wine, beer, and soft drinks from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., and then there is the cookie buffet from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. This very nice property has a lot of perks, and there have been renovations and upgrades. I definitely recommend Magnolia Hotel, which also has sister properties in Houston, Denver, and Omaha.