Spice (21 page)

This dish is perfect with an Arneis from the Piedmonte region or a sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley. Both are light white wines with grapefruit notes.

M
AKES 10 SPRİNG ROLLS TO SERVE 5 TO 10 AND 1 CUP
C
HARMOULA

For the Brik

½ small head savoy cabbage, outer leaves and core removed, very thinly shredded (about 2 cups)

2 shallots, peeled and sliced very thin

2 tablespoons olive oil plus 1/3 cup for brushing phyllo

20 medium shrimp (about 1 pound), peeled, deveined, and chopped into small pieces

5 sheets phyllo dough (less than or 1 package) or 10 feuilles de brik

4 ounces rice vermicelli or cellophane noodles (pad Thai noodles)

10 tablespoons lightly toasted, ground pistachios (see page 91)

1 head Boston lettuce, leaves left whole, cleaned and dried

For the Charmoula

2 large pink grapefruits, sectioned (page 72)

4 shallots, peeled and minced

4 teaspoons finely minced garlic (about 4 large cloves)

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt to taste

2 tablespoons harissa (page 152)

1 large bunch cilantro, washed, sprigged, and roughly chopped

For the Brik

1.
In a small sauté pan over medium heat, sauté the cabbage and shallots in 2 tablespoons olive oil until soft and tender, about 5 minutes.

2.
Add the shrimp to the sauté pan and stir to coat them with the shallot and cabbage mixture. Cook for about 4 minutes until the shrimp just start to turn pink. Remove from the heat immediately and season with salt and pepper.

3.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Soak the noodles in hot water until soft (about 10 minutes) and drain; set aside.

4.
Cut 5 phyllo dough sheets in half widthwise. Stack the halves on top of each other and cover them with a damp towel. If you use feuilles de brik, follow the instructions on page 91.

5.
Lay a sheet of phyllo on a board, orienting it toward you so that it is flag-shaped. Brush the phyllo sheet generously with olive oil and then put a heaping tablespoon of shrimp on the bottom third of the pastry. Pinch off some rice noodles (about ¼ cup) and lay the noodles over the shrimp mixture. Sprinkle the whole thing with 1 tablespoon of toasted pistachios. Fold in the sides and roll it up gently but as tightly as possible, like a cigar. Repeat this process so you have 10 rolls.

6.
Place the rolls on a heavy baking sheet and bake them for 12 to 18 minutes, until they’re golden brown and crispy.

7.
Serve hot with grapefruit charmoula and torn pieces of Boston lettuce for wrapping and soaking up charmoula.

For the Charmoula

Combine all the ingredients in a small mixing bowl and check the seasoning.

If Using Feuilles de Brik

1. Lay a sheet of brik on a work surface or board and place a heaping tablespoon of shrimp on the bottom third of the pastry. You don’t need to brush brik with oil like you do with phyllo. Pinch off some rice noodles (about ¼ cup) and lay the noodles over the shrimp mixture.

2. Sprinkle the whole thing with 1 tablespoon of toasted pistachios. Fold in the sides and roll it up gently but as tightly as possible, like a cigar. Repeat this process so you have 10 rolls.

3. Heat a medium-large sauté pan over high heat and lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. After about 2 minutes, when the pan is hot, add the rolls, one at a time, placing them seam-side down and being careful not to crowd the pan. Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to fry 5 rolls at a time and repeat the process. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the rolls until they are golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. If the pan seems dry and the rolls aren’t browning well, drizzle in a little more olive oil each time you turn them onto a new side.

4. Remove the rolls from the pan and place them onto a paper towel to drain off excess oil. Serve immediately, according to instructions in step 7 on page 90.

TOASTING NUTS

To make toasted nuts, such as almonds, peanuts, pine nuts, pistachios, and walnuts, toss whole, blanched or skinless nuts in a little extra-virgin olive oil and roast them in a 350°F oven until they are golden brown (8 to 10 minutes; pine nuts take only 5 to 6 minutes). You can also sauté them with olive oil over medium heat, constantly stirring until they start to pop and turn golden brown. Sprinkle the toasted nuts generously with salt, and serve them warm or at room temperature—not hot.

Scallop Pizza with Leeks and Fennel Seed

This recipe was very popular when I cooked at the Casablanca in Cambridge, Massachusetts. The sweet fennel pairs well with the scallops. The cream melts into the pizza dough as it cooks and makes the crust extra crispy. It’s best when the pizza dough is homemade, but a fresh store-bought dough can work as well.

Serve this pizza with a rich and creamy white wine, such as a chardonnay from Italy.

M
AKES TWO 12-İNCH PİZZAS TO SERVE 4

2 cups heavy cream

½ cup white wine

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon olive oil plus a little extra to dress the arugula

3 large leeks, white part only, sliced and washed

½ teaspoon fennel seed

½ teaspoon nonflavored, whole-grain mustard, such as Maille

6 scallions, bottoms trimmed, cleaned and roughly chopped

2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 large cloves)

10 large dry sea scallops, muscles removed (see note, page 64)

1 recipe Manaaeesh dough (page 240)

About ½ cup flour for dusting

1 large bunch arugula

Squeeze of fresh lemon or 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

1.
In a 2-to 4-quart heavy saucepan, bring the cream and wine to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 15 minutes, until the cream has reduced by one-third and is thick. Season the cream with salt and pepper and set aside.

2.
Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and sauté the leeks and fennel seed until the leeks are tender and soft, about 8 minutes. Be careful not to brown the leeks or they will become bitter. Season the leeks with salt and pepper.

3.
Stir the leek mixture into the cream mixture and add the mustard, scallions, and garlic.

4.
Turn a scallop on its side and split it down the middle so that you have 2 thin discs. Repeat with the remaining scallops so you have 20 pieces.

5.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.

6.
Divide the pizza dough into two, and roll each half into rounds as thin as possible (about 1/6 inch), dusting with a little flour as you go. Make sure the dough is room temperature and not cold.

7.
Place each round on a pizza stone or heavy baking sheet.

8.
Spoon half the leek mixture onto each pizza shell and spread it as evenly as possible in a thin layer. It should be very thin, as it is very rich, like butter.

9.
Arrange 10 scallop slices on each shell and then season them with salt and pepper.

10.
Place the pizzas in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the edges are crisp and browned and the top is bubbly.

11.
Slice and serve hot with plenty of arugula, lightly dressed with lemon and olive oil.