Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens (60 page)

Whether or not eggs are harmful seems to depend on who’s eating them. An estimated two-thirds to three-quarters of the population can handle a moderate number of eggs. Perhaps one reason is that eggs contain lecithin, and as nutritional researchers at Kansas State University have learned, lecithin interferes with the body’s absorption of cholesterol.

Some egg sellers charge outrageous prices for blue-green eggs, claiming they’re lower in cholesterol than the more familiar white-shell eggs. The fact is that eggs laid by hens of heavier breeds (including Araucana) are likely to contain slightly more cholesterol than eggs laid by commercial Leghorn strains raised under similar circumstances.

In their efforts to explain these findings, researchers reason that the more often a hen lays, the less time she has to put cholesterol into each egg. Unfortunately, the difference among breeds is so slight it’s insignificant. Otherwise commercial producers wouldn’t have such a hard time trying to reduce the cholesterol level of eggs through genetic selection.

A greater influence on the cholesterol and saturated-fat content of eggs is what the hens eat. Pasturing layers, regularly feeding them greens, or altering their rations to include 10 percent flax seed, can reduce both the cholesterol and the saturated-fat content of their eggs by some 25 percent. Because the eggs of hens that eat green plants have darker yolks than those of hens without access to greens, yolk color is a good reflection of an egg’s lower levels of cholesterol and saturated fat.

The only other property known to influence the total percentage of fat is an egg’s size — the larger the egg, the more white it has in proportion to yolk, and therefore the lower its percentage of saturated fat and cholesterol. Most of the fat and all of the cholesterol are in the yolk. And for the record, cooking an egg affects neither fat nor cholesterol.

According to some nutritionists, you can eliminate more saturated fat from your diet by eating chicken without the skin than you can by not eating eggs. Still, if you wish to reduce fat in an egg dish (such as a quiche or an omelet), substitute 2 egg whites per whole egg for half the eggs called for in the recipe. To reduce saturated fat in baked goods, substitute two egg whites and 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil for each whole egg. If the recipe already has oil in it, leave out the extra oil.

So-called egg substitutes are made from egg white. The yolk is replaced by such ingredients as nonfat milk or tofu, along with a variety of emulsifiers, stabilizers, antioxidants, gums, and artificial coloring. You have to wonder if the more healthful choice wouldn’t be to eat the real thing.

At some times of the year, you’ll have more eggs than you can use, while at other times you’ll have too few. It’s logical to preserve surplus eggs in times of plenty to use in times of need. Preserve only eggs with clean, uncracked shells; keep in mind that dirty eggs that have been cleaned by washing or dry buffing do not keep well under prolonged storage.

Throughout the ages different methods have been devised to extend the storage life of eggs. The ancient Chinese stored them for years in various materials ranging from clay to wood ashes to cooked rice. You probably wouldn’t want to eat one of those eggs, with its greenish yolk and gelatinous brown albumen.

In modern times many processes have been developed for preserving eggs. Although none is an outright substitute for cold storage, these methods can let you extend the shelf life of your homegrown eggs. They also offer short-term ways to prolong storage without electricity, which is handy if you live in or are planning a trip to the outback. Even in the backwoods you can often take advantage of a cold running stream or an ice bank to keep eggs fresh. Many cellars offer suitable egg-storage conditions. The cooler the temperature, the longer eggs will keep without spoiling.

Clean eggs may be safely stored for the short term (2 to 3 months) at temperatures up to 55°F (13°C), where the relative humidity is close to 75 percent. The moisture level is important, since at low humidities eggs dry out and at high humidities they get moldy. A little air circulation helps retard mold growth.

EGG STORAGE SHELFLIFE

This sturdy, two-piece, clear-plastic egg carton may be washed between uses, making it ideal for storing homegrown eggs.

At 30°F (–1°C) eggs will keep for as long as 9 months. The temperature must not get below 28°F (–2°C), though, or the eggs will freeze and burst their shells. Relative humidity of 85 percent is best for such long-term storage. To prevent mold growth and condensation, seal egg cartons in plastic bags. To minimize drying out at lower humidities, use the thermostabilization, oil, or water-glass methods described below.

Given the infinite number of combinations of possible temperature and humidity conditions, it’s not possible to list definitive storage times under all conditions. The accompanying guidelines (see box, Storing Eggs), in combination with the fresh-egg tests offered earlier in this chapter, give you a good starting place. The longer you store eggs, the more likely they are to develop a stale or off-flavor that makes them less suited for breakfast than for mixing with other ingredients in recipes.

Refrigeration is usually the quickest, most convenient way to store eggs. But the worst place to store them is on an egg rack built into the refrigerator door, where they’ll get jostled every time the door is opened. And if the rack lacks a cover, the eggs will be exposed to lost moisture and blasts of warm air whenever the door is opened.

Storing them in closed cartons on a lower shelf keeps them cooler, thus fresher longer, and reduces evaporation through the shell. On the lowest shelf, where the temperature is coolest, eggs in a closed carton will keep for up to 5 weeks.

The biggest problem with a household refrigerator is its low humidity, especially in a self-defrosting (frost-free) model. If you wrap egg cartons in plastic bags to prevent moisture loss (as well as absorption of flavors from other foods), you can safely refrigerate eggs for 2 months.

Egg cartons may be reused only so many times before they become unsanitary, so much so that in some places it’s illegal to sell eggs in recycled cartons. A washable, reusable egg carton is a better option, but good ones are hard to find. Plastic egg carriers of the sort used by backpackers and craft hobbyists make an inexpensive option that may be readily washed before each refill, but unfortunately the flimsy plastic hinges don’t hold up well under constant use.

If you need only the whites or only the yolks for a recipe, you may refrigerate leftover whites in a tightly covered container for up to 4 days. Leftover yolks, covered with cold water, may be stored in a sealed container for 2 days.

Once whole eggs have been refrigerated, they need to stay that way. A cold egg left at room temperature sweats, encouraging the growth of bacteria. Never leave a refrigerated egg on the counter for more than 2 hours.

EGG STORAGE SAFETY

Freezing lets you keep eggs longer than any other method — up to one year at 0°F (–18°C). Freeze only raw eggs; hard-cooked eggs will turn rubbery. Since eggs that are frozen intact will expand and burst their shells, the shells must be removed before freezing.

Eggs that are frozen in ice-cube trays
should be removed as soon as they are frozen and wrapped in freezer bags with as much air removed as possible — a handheld vacuum pump comes in handy here. To compare the size of a frozen cube with the normal size of an egg (or its yolk or white), use a measuring spoon to determine how much each cube in the tray holds, then consult the “Frozen Egg Equivalents” table (see below). If you use metal trays with removable grids, measure the total amount the tray holds and divide by the number of cubes per tray to determine the amount per cube.

For use in recipes calling for several eggs, freeze eggs (or yolks or whites) in airtight freezer containers, each holding just enough for one recipe. Leave a little head space to allow for expansion; otherwise the lid may pop or the container may split. Place a square of freezer paper on top of the eggs to minimize the formation of ice crystals. Label each container with the date, contents, and recipe for which it is intended.

To store whole eggs
break the contents into a bowl, stir just enough to blend the yolks with the whites (taking care not to whip in air), and press the eggs through a sieve to break up the thick albumen. You can get by without adding sugar or salt if you take great care to mix the whites and yolks thoroughly. Otherwise, to each cup of eggs add ½ teaspoon salt (for use in a main dish) or ½ tablespoon honey, corn syrup, or sugar (for use in a dessert). Pour the mixture into trays or containers for freezing.

To store whites separated from the yolks,
break the egg carefully to avoid getting any yolk into the whites; otherwise you’ll have trouble whipping them later. Press the whites through a sieve to break up the thick albumen, and freeze them in trays or containers. Thawed whites may be whipped just like fresh ones if you warm them to room temperature for 30 minutes before beating them.

FROZEN EGG EQUIVALENTS

To store yolks separately,
include sugar or salt to prevent gumminess. Add either 1/8 teaspoon salt or ½ tablespoon honey, corn syrup, or sugar per four yolks (approximately ¼ cup or 60 mL). Freeze the egg yolks in ice-cube trays or in airtight containers.

Thaw frozen eggs overnight in the refrigerator or in airtight containers placed in cool water, 50 to 60°F (10 to 16°C). Thaw only as many as you will use within 3 days. Use thawed eggs only in foods that will be thoroughly cooked.