The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (115 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

For pan-roasted broccoli with bright green florets and toasty-brown stalks, we trimmed the florets into small pieces and the stalks into oblong coins for maximum browning. For broccoli that was nicely browned but also cooked through properly, we layered the stalks evenly in a hot, lightly oiled skillet. Once they began to brown we added the florets along with water and allowed the mixture to steam until nearly tender. Stirring the seasoning right into the steaming water kept things simple and allowed us to infuse the broccoli with flavor.

See “PREPARING BROCCOLI” illustrations that follow recipe.

SERVES 4

Avoid buying broccoli with stalks that are cracked or bend easily or with florets that are yellow or brown. If your broccoli stalks are especially thick, split them in half lengthwise before slicing. Serve as is or with a sauce (recipes follow).

1.
Stir water, salt, and pepper together in small bowl until salt dissolves; set aside. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add broccoli stalks in even layer and cook, without stirring, until browned on bottoms, about 2 minutes. Add florets to skillet and toss to combine; cook, without stirring, until bottoms of florets just begin to brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

2.
Add water mixture and cover skillet; cook until broccoli is bright green but still crisp, about 2 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until water has evaporated, broccoli stalks are tender, and florets are crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Serve.

SERVES 4

Make sure to cook the broccoli before preparing the sauce.

Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in cream, mustard, sherry, cayenne, and salt. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until mixture bubbles and thickens, about 1 minute. Off heat, add 3 tablespoons Gruyère and lemon juice and stir until cheese is melted. Add broccoli and stir to reheat and coat. Transfer to serving dish, sprinkle with remaining 1 to 2 tablespoons Gruyère, and serve immediately.

SERVES 4

Watch the butter carefully as it cooks, as it can go from brown to black in a matter of seconds.

Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and continue to cook, swirling occasionally, until butter is browned and releases nutty aroma, about 1¹⁄
₂
minutes. Off heat, add shallot, garlic, salt, and pepper and stir until garlic and shallot are fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and thyme. Add broccoli to skillet, toss to coat with browned butter, and serve immediately.

SERVES 4

The peanuts add a nice textural contrast here.

SAUCE

BROCCOLI

1. FOR THE SAUCE:
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl and set aside.

2. FOR THE BROCCOLI:
Stir water, salt, and pepper together in small bowl until salt dissolves; set aside. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add broccoli stalks in even layer and cook, without stirring, until browned on bottoms, about 2 minutes. Add florets to skillet and toss to combine; cook, without stirring, until bottoms of florets just begin to brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

3.
Add water mixture and cover skillet; cook until broccoli is bright green but still crisp, about 2 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until water has almost evaporated, broccoli stalks are tender, and florets are crisp-tender, about 1 minute more. Add basil and cook, stirring, until leaves wilt, about 30 seconds. Add sauce and toss until broccoli is evenly coated and heated through, about 30 seconds. Transfer to serving dish, top with chopped peanuts, and serve immediately.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Roasting is a great way to deepen the flavor of vegetables, but broccoli can be tricky to roast given its awkward shape, dense, woody stalks, and shrubby florets. We wanted a roasted broccoli recipe that would give us evenly cooked broccoli—stalks and florets—and add concentrated flavor and dappled browning. The way we prepared the broccoli was the key. We sliced the crown in half, then cut each half into uniform wedges. We cut the stalks into rectangular pieces slightly smaller than the more delicate wedges. This promoted even cooking and great browning by maximizing the vegetable’s contact with the baking sheet. Tossing a scant ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon of sugar over the broccoli along with salt, pepper, and a splash of olive oil gave us blistered, bubbled, and browned stalks that were sweet and full-flavored, along with crisp-tipped florets.

SERVES 4

Make sure to trim away the outer peel from the broccoli stalks as directed; otherwise, it will turn tough when cooked.

1.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place large rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Cut broccoli at juncture of florets and stalks; remove outer peel from stalk. Cut stalk into 2- to 3-inch lengths and each length into ¹⁄
₂
-inch-thick pieces. Cut crowns into 4 wedges if 3 to 4 inches in diameter or 6 wedges if 4 to 5 inches in diameter. Place broccoli in large bowl; drizzle with oil and toss well until evenly coated. Sprinkle with salt, sugar, and pepper to taste and toss to combine.

2.
Working quickly, remove baking sheet from oven. Carefully transfer broccoli to baking sheet and spread into even layer, placing flat sides of broccoli pieces down. Return baking sheet to oven and roast until stalks are well browned and tender and florets are lightly browned, 9 to 11 minutes. Transfer to platter and serve immediately with lemon wedges.

While broccoli roasts, heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin oil in 8-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add 3 thinly sliced shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and beginning to turn light golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon coarsely chopped fennel seeds and continue to cook until shallots are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Off heat, toss roasted broccoli with shallots, sprinkle with 1 ounce shaved Parmesan, and serve immediately.

Stir 3 cloves minced garlic into olive oil before drizzling it over prepared broccoli in step 1.

Omit pepper when seasoning broccoli in step 1. While broccoli roasts, heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 5 garlic cloves, sliced thin, and ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon red pepper flakes in 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is soft and beginning to turn light golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons finely chopped pitted black olives, 1 teaspoon oregano, and 2 teaspoons lemon juice. Toss roasted broccoli with olive mixture and serve immediately.

Make sure to trim away the outer peel from the broccoli stalks; otherwise, it will turn tough when cooked.

While broccoli roasts, melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in 8-inch skillet over low heat. Add 4 minced garlic cloves and 4 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and minced. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until anchovies have largely melted and garlic is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme. Toss roasted broccoli with garlic mixture and serve immediately.