The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (119 page)

SERVES 6

This spin on our cauliflower gratin brings together the classic pair of broccoli and cheddar in a rich, satisfying casserole.

TOPPING

FILLING

1. FOR THE TOPPING:
Pulse bread, butter, salt, and pepper in food processor until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses; set aside.

2. FOR THE FILLING:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add broccoli and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain broccoli in colander; leave in colander to drain while preparing sauce.

3.
Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat, add shallot, and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds; stir in flour until combined, about 1 minute. Whisk in cream and broth and bring to boil. Stir in ²⁄
₃
cup cheddar, thyme, remaining ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne until incorporated. Off heat, gently stir in broccoli until evenly combined. Transfer mixture to 11 by 7-inch (2-quart) gratin dish. Sprinkle remaining ¹⁄
₃
cup cheese evenly over surface, then sprinkle evenly with bread-crumb topping. Bake until golden brown and sauce is bubbling around edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately.

TO MAKE AHEAD:
Topping and broccoli can be prepared and stored at room temperature for up to 2 hours. Don’t prepare sauce or bake gratin until just before serving.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Although boiling corn on the cob is pretty straightforward, there are some variables to consider. We found that corn boiled in salted water was predictably tougher than corn boiled in unsalted water. Sugar-seasoned water, however, brought out the natural sweetness of the corn in the same way that salted water enhances the flavors of other vegetables, assuming the corn is not of the supersweet variety (which is what you’ll typically find in supermarkets during the off-season because of its long shelf life). We tried cooking the corn in milk but this only masked the corn’s flavor, so we stuck with water.

SERVES 8

If you want to serve more corn, bring a second pot of water to a boil at the same time or cook the corn in batches in just one pot. If you know that you have supersweet corn, omit the sugar.

Bring 4 quarts water and sugar, if using, to boil in large pot. Add corn, return to boil, and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain corn, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately with butter, if using.

SERVES 8

Make sure your pot is big enough to accommodate all 8 ears of corn.

Fit large stockpot with steamer basket. Add water, keeping level below basket. Bring water to boil over high heat, then carefully place corn in basket. Cover and steam corn until tender, 7 to 10 minutes. Using tongs, remove corn from basket, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately with butter, if using.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
BOILED CORN ON THE COB
OR
STEAMED CORN ON THE COB

This brightly flavored butter is perfect when pairing the corn with a Mexican or Spanish meal.

Using fork, beat butter in small bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in lime zest, cilantro, and cayenne until thoroughly combined.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
BOILED CORN ON THE COB
OR
STEAMED CORN ON THE COB

Dry-toasting garlic is a good option when you want to mellow the punch of raw garlic but don’t have time to roast a whole head of garlic in the oven.

1.
Toast garlic in 10-inch skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, about 8 minutes. When cool, skin and mince cloves.

2.
Using fork, beat butter in small bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in garlic, parsley, basil, and pepper until thoroughly combined.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We wanted a corn pudding with a tender, creamy custard (one that didn’t curdle or weep) and lots of corn flavor. We used a combination of whole and grated kernels, as well as the “milk” from the cobs (which we collected by scraping the cleaned cobs with the back of a butter knife) to achieve big corn flavor and an appealing texture. Cooking the pudding in a water bath helped ensure a creamy texture. To remedy the weeping problem, we first cooked the corn in butter until most of the liquid had evaporated, then simmered it in heavy cream (which, unlike milk or light cream, won’t curdle when boiled). Cayenne added a good finishing kick.

See “GRATING AND MILKING CORN” illustrations that follow recipe.

SERVES 6

This recipe should be served hot and cannot be reheated, so plan ahead accordingly.

1.
Cut kernels from 5 ears corn into medium bowl, then scrape cobs with back of butter knife over bowl to collect milk (you should have about 2¹⁄
₂
cups kernels and milk). Grate remaining 1 ear corn on coarse side of box grater (you should have about ¹⁄
₂
cup grated kernels). Add grated kernels to bowl with cut kernels.

2.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place roasting pan or large baking dish on rack, and heat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter 8-inch square baking dish. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in kettle or saucepan.

3.
Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until corn is bright yellow and liquid has almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add cream, salt, sugar, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened and spoon leaves trail when pan bottom is scraped, about 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to medium bowl. Stir milk into mixture, then whisk in eggs and cornstarch. Pour mixture into buttered baking dish.

4.
Set filled dish in roasting pan or large baking dish already in oven. Fill outer pan with boiling water to reach halfway up inner dish. Bake until center jiggles slightly when shaken and pudding has browned lightly in spots, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove baking dish from water bath, cool for 10 minutes, and serve.