The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (122 page)

Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online

Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen

Tags: #Cooking

SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH WITH PECANS AND FETA

SERVES 4

If you don’t have a bowl large enough to accommodate the entire amount of spinach, cook it in a smaller bowl in two batches. Reduce the water to 2 tablespoons per batch and cook the spinach for about 1¹⁄
2
minutes.

18

ounces baby spinach

¹⁄
4

cup water

2

tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

4

shallots, sliced thin

Salt

¹⁄
3

cup pecans, toasted and chopped

2

teaspoons red wine vinegar

1¹⁄
2

ounces feta cheese, crumbled (¹⁄
3
cup)

1.
Place spinach and water in large bowl. Cover bowl with large dinner plate (plate should completely cover bowl and not rest on spinach). Microwave until spinach is wilted and decreased in volume by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove bowl from microwave and keep covered for 1 minute. Carefully remove plate and transfer spinach to colander. Using back of rubber spatula, gently press spinach against colander to release excess liquid. Transfer spinach to cutting board and chop coarse. Return spinach to colander and press again.

2.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil and shallots in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until shallots are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add spinach to skillet, using tongs to stir and coat with oil. Sprinkle with ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt and continue stirring with tongs until spinach is uniformly wilted and glossy green, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with pecans and vinegar and stir to combine. Drizzle with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and sprinkle with feta. Season with salt to taste and serve immediately.

SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH WITH CHICKPEAS AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

SERVES 4

If you don’t have a bowl large enough to accommodate the entire amount of spinach, cook it in a smaller bowl in two batches. Reduce the water to 2 tablespoons per batch and cook the spinach for about 1¹⁄
2
minutes.

18

ounces baby spinach

¹⁄
4

cup plus 2 tablespoons water

2

tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

4

garlic cloves, sliced thin crosswise

³⁄
4

cup canned chickpeas, rinsed

¹⁄
2

cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and sliced thin

Salt

1

ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (¹⁄
2
cup)

1.
Place spinach and ¹⁄
4
cup water in large bowl. Cover bowl with large dinner plate (plate should completely cover bowl and not rest on spinach). Microwave until spinach is wilted and decreased in volume by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove bowl from microwave and keep covered for 1 minute. Carefully remove plate and transfer spinach to colander. Using back of rubber spatula, gently press spinach against colander to release excess liquid. Transfer spinach to cutting board and chop coarse. Return spinach to colander and press again.

2.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil and garlic in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is light golden brown and beginning to sizzle, 3 to 6 minutes. Add chickpeas, tomatoes, and remaining 2 tablespoons water and cook, stirring occasionally, until water evaporates and tomatoes are softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add spinach to skillet, using tongs to stir and coat with oil. Sprinkle with ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt and continue stirring with tongs until spinach is uniformly wilted and glossy green, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons Parmesan and stir to combine. Drizzle with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and sprinkle with remaining 6 tablespoons Parmesan. Season with salt to taste and serve immediately.

SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH WITH LEEKS AND HAZELNUTS

SERVES 4

If you don’t have a bowl large enough to accommodate the entire amount of spinach, cook it in a smaller bowl in two batches. Reduce the water to 2 tablespoons per batch and cook the spinach for about 1¹⁄
2
minutes.

18

ounces baby spinach

¹⁄
4

cup water, plus extra if needed

2

tablespoons unsalted butter

2

leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly

¹⁄
2

teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

Salt

¹⁄
8

teaspoon ground nutmeg

2

tablespoons heavy cream

¹⁄
3

cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped

1.
Place spinach and ¹⁄
4
cup water in large bowl. Cover bowl with large dinner plate (plate should completely cover bowl and not rest on spinach). Microwave until spinach is wilted and decreased in volume by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove bowl from microwave and keep covered for 1 minute. Carefully remove plate and transfer spinach to colander. Using back of rubber spatula, gently press spinach against colander to release excess liquid. Transfer spinach to cutting board and chop coarse. Return spinach to colander and press again.

2.
Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 10 to 15 minutes, adding 1 teaspoon water to skillet if leeks begin to color. Add spinach to skillet, using tongs to stir and coat with butter. Sprinkle with lemon zest, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and nutmeg and continue stirring with tongs until spinach is uniformly wilted and glossy green, about 2 minutes. Drizzle with lemon juice and cream and stir to combine. Sprinkle with hazelnuts and season with salt to taste. Serve immediately.

SAUTÉED SPINACH WITH GARLIC AND LEMON

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Overcooked spinach, burnt garlic, and pallid lemon flavor are all too often the hallmarks of this side dish. We were after tender sautéed spinach seasoned with a perfect balance of garlic and lemon. We started with bunched flat-leaf spinach and cooked it in fruity extra-virgin olive oil with slivered garlic (lightly browned in the pan before the spinach was added). Squeezing the spinach in a colander got rid of excess moisture. A combination of lemon juice and zest gave it the right lemony flavor, and red pepper flakes lent some good heat.

SAUTÉED SPINACH WITH GARLIC AND LEMON

SERVES 4

The amount of spinach may seem excessive, but the spinach wilts considerably with cooking. We like to use a salad spinner to wash and dry the spinach. If you have kosher or coarsely ground sea salt on hand, use it for the final sprinkling just before serving. This spinach dish makes an excellent accompaniment to almost any main course, from chicken and fish to steak and pork.

2

tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

4

garlic cloves, sliced very thin

30

ounces curly-leaf spinach, stemmed

¹⁄
2

teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 2 teaspoons juice

Salt

Pinch red pepper flakes

1.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil and garlic in Dutch oven over medium-high heat and cook until garlic is light golden brown, shaking pan back and forth when garlic begins to sizzle, about 3 minutes (stirring with a spoon will cause the garlic to clump). Add spinach by the handful, using tongs to stir and coat spinach with oil.

2.
Once all spinach is added, sprinkle with lemon zest, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes and continue stirring with tongs until spinach is uniformly wilted and glossy green, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer spinach to colander and gently squeeze with tongs to release excess liquid. Return spinach to Dutch oven, sprinkle with lemon juice, and stir to coat. Drizzle with remaining 1 teaspoon oil and season with additional salt to taste. Serve immediately.

FENNEL

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

While fennel is excellent served raw in salads or antipasti, its crisp anise flavor turns mild and sweet once cooked. We found that fennel generally responds best to dry-heat cooking methods because they promote caramelization, which intensifies its sweet character (braising is the exception, as this method allows the fennel to absorb flavors from the cooking liquid). The problem with cooking fennel lies in trying to achieve uniformly tender pieces. A combination of proper vegetable prep and cooking technique turned out to be the key to evenly cooked fennel. Fan-shaped wedges proved good for braising, while smaller pieces were necessary for sautéing and roasting. In all cases, it was important to cook the fennel slowly to deliver uniformly tender but not mushy results.

See “TWO WAYS TO PREPARE FENNEL” illustrations that follow recipe.

BRAISED FENNEL WITH WHITE WINE AND PARMESAN

SERVES 4

This rich side dish works well with beef or veal.

3

tablespoons butter

2

fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, bulbs halved, cored, and cut crosswise into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices

Salt and pepper

¹⁄
3

cup dry white wine

¹⁄
4

cup grated Parmesan cheese

1.
Melt butter over medium heat in 12-inch skillet. Add fennel and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Add wine, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn slices over and continue to simmer, covered, until fennel is quite tender, has absorbed most of pan liquid, and starts to turn golden, about 10 minutes longer. Turn fennel again and continue cooking until fennel begins to turn golden on other side, about 4 minutes longer.

2.
Sprinkle fennel with cheese and serve immediately.

ROASTED FENNEL WITH RED ONIONS AND CARROTS

SERVES 4

Drizzling balsamic vinegar over the vegetables during the last minutes of roasting highlights their sweetness. Serve this as a side dish with chicken or veal.

2

fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, bulbs halved, cored, and cut crosswise into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices

1

red onion, cut into 8 wedges

2

carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut crosswise into 2-inch lengths

2

tablespoons olive oil

Salt

1

tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss fennel, onion, and carrots in large roasting pan with oil. Season with salt to taste. Roast 30 minutes, turning vegetables once after 20 minutes.

2.
Drizzle vinegar over vegetables and toss gently. Continue roasting until vegetables are richly colored and tender, about 5 minutes longer. Season with salt to taste. Serve hot or warm.

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