The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (234 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
If using boneless ribs, skip to step 2.
1.
Remove meat from bone, positioning chef’s knife as close as possible to bone.
2.
Trim excess hard fat and silver skin from both sides of meat.
3.
Slice meat at angle into 4 to 5 pieces ranging from ¹⁄
2
to ³⁄
4
inch thick.
4.
Place plastic wrap over meat and pound into even ¹⁄
4
-inch-thick pieces.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
In researching recipes for barbecued brisket, we found cooks could agree on one thing: cooking low and slow (for up to 12 hours) for the purpose of tenderizing. That seemed like a lot of time. We wanted to figure out a way to make cooking this potentially delicious cut of meat less daunting and less time-consuming and we wanted to trade in a specialized smoker for a backyard grill. Brining the brisket seasoned it throughout and allowed the meat to remain juicy even after hours on the grill. To get a good crust, we added a little sugar to the salt and pepper rub. Our “aha!” moment came when we realized that fire can burn down as well as up. We layered unlit briquettes on the bottom of our grill and added 4 quarts of hot coals on top. The result? A fire that burned consistently in the optimal 300-degree range for about three hours. We then transferred the brisket to the oven to finish cooking.
SERVES 8 TO 10
If your brisket is smaller than 5 pounds or the fat cap has been removed, or if you are using a small charcoal grill, it may be necessary to build an aluminum foil shield in order to keep the brisket from becoming too dark. If using the fattier point cut, omit the step of brining. Two medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, can be substituted for the wood chip packet on a charcoal grill. Some of the traditional accompaniments to barbecued brisket include barbecue sauce (see
BARBECUE SAUCE FOR TEXAS-STYLE BEEF RIBS
), sliced white bread or saltines, pickle chips, and thinly sliced onion.
1 | (5- to 6-pound) beef brisket, flat cut |
²⁄ | cup table salt |
¹⁄ | cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar |
2 | cups wood chips, soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained |
3 | tablespoons kosher salt |
2 | tablespoons pepper |
1 | (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal) |
1.
Using sharp knife, cut slits in fat cap, spaced 1 inch apart, in crosshatch pattern, being careful to not cut into meat. Dissolve table salt and ¹⁄
2
cup sugar in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge brisket in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours.
2.
Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips in foil packet and cut several vent holes in top.
3.
Combine remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, kosher salt, and pepper in bowl. Remove brisket from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to rimmed baking sheet and rub salt mixture over entire brisket and into slits.
4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent halfway. Arrange 3 quarts unlit charcoal banked against 1 side of grill and disposable pan on empty side of grill. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal (4¹⁄
2
quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour on top of unlit charcoal, to cover one-third of grill with coals steeply banked against side of grill. Place wood chip packet on top of coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips begin to smoke, about 5 minutes.
4B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips begin to smoke, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed during cooking to maintain grill temperature between 250 and 300 degrees.)
5.
Line rimmed baking sheet with foil and set wire rack inside. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place brisket on cool side of grill, fat side down, as far away from coals and flames as possible with thickest side facing coals and flames. Loosely tent meat with foil. Cover (position lid vent over meat if using charcoal) and cook for 3 hours. Transfer brisket to prepared baking sheet.
6.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Roast brisket until tender and meat registers 195 degrees, 1¹⁄
2
to 2 hours.
7.
Transfer brisket to carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 30 minutes. Cut brisket across grain into long, thin slices and serve.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
This classic pairing sounds tailor-made for the grill. But the reality is usually onions that are both crunchy and charred and sausages that either dry out or—worse—catch fire. We wanted a foolproof method for grilling sausages and vegetables simultaneously that would produce nicely browned links with juicy interiors and tender, well-cooked vegetables. We adapted a ballpark technique, first cooking the meat with the onions away from direct heat and then finishing them directly over the flames. Early in our testing, we found the onions needed a jump start, so we microwaved them with thyme, salt, and pepper. We then layered the raw sausages over the hot onions in the roasting pan (wrapped tightly in foil) and placed the pan on the grill. Once the onions were softened and the sausages were almost cooked through, we removed the sausages to the cooking grate to brown and then finished the dish by allowing the liquid to evaporate from the onions in the pan, so they caramelized.
SERVES 4
This recipe will work with any raw, uncooked sausage. Serve sausages as is or in toasted rolls.
2 | large onions, sliced thin |
1 | teaspoon fresh thyme leaves |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1 | (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan |
2 | pounds sweet or hot Italian sausage (8 to 12 links) |
1A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.
2.
Meanwhile, microwave onions, thyme, salt, and pepper in medium bowl, covered, until onions begin to soften and tips turn slightly translucent, 4 to 6 minutes, stirring once halfway through cooking (be careful of steam). Transfer onions to disposable pan. Place sausages in single layer over onions and wrap roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil.
3.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Place roasting pan in center of grill, cover grill, and cook for 15 minutes. Move pan to one side of grill and carefully remove foil. Using tongs, place sausages on grate and cook (covered if using gas) until golden brown on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes, turning as needed.
4.
Transfer sausages to serving platter and tent loosely with foil. Cover grill and continue to cook onions, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates and onions begin to brown, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Serve sausages, passing onions separately.
Omit thyme and add 3 seeded and quartered red bell peppers to roasting pan with sausages. Transfer pepper pieces to cooking grate with sausages and cook until charred patches form, 5 to 7 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking.
Substitute 2 cored and thinly sliced fennel bulbs for 1 onion and 2 tablespoons minced fennel fronds for thyme.
Combine 3 peeled and coarsely shredded Granny Smith apples, 2 cups drained sauerkraut, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon minced fresh sage in disposable roasting pan (do not microwave before adding to pan). Substitute apple mixture for onions and thyme and bratwurst for Italian sausages.