The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (95 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Good potato gnocchi are something of a culinary paradox, light, airy pillows created from dense, starchy ingredients. The method is simple: knead the mashed potatoes into a dough with a minimum of flour; shape; and boil for a minute. And yet the potential pitfalls are numerous (lumpy mashed potatoes, too much or too little flour, a heavy hand when kneading, and bland flavor). We wanted a foolproof recipe for impossibly light gnocchi with unmistakable potato flavor. Baking russets (streamlined by parcooking the potatoes in the microwave) produced intensely flavored potatoes—an excellent start to our gnocchi base. To avoid lumps, which can cause gnocchi to break apart during cooking, we turned to a ricer for a smooth, supple mash. While many recipes offer a range of flour, which ups the chances of overworking the dough (and producing leaden gnocchi), we used an exact amount based on the ratio of potato to flour so that our gnocchi dough was mixed as little as possible. And we found that an egg, while not traditional, tenderized our gnocchi further, delivering delicate pillowlike dumplings.

SERVES 4

Gnocchi, like many baking recipes, require accurate measurement in order to achieve the proper texture; it’s best to weigh the potatoes and flour. After processing, you may have slightly more than the 3 cups (16 ounces) of potatoes required for this recipe; do not be tempted to use more than 3 cups. Eat or discard any extra. If you prefer, replace the browned butter sauce with
GORGONZOLA-CREAM SAUCE
,
PORCINI MUSHROOM BROTH
, or
PARMESAN SAUCE WITH PANCETTA AND WALNUTS
.

POTATO GNOCCHI

BROWN BUTTER AND SAGE SAUCE

1. FOR THE GNOCCHI:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Poke each potato 8 times with paring knife over entire surface. Place potatoes on plate and microwave until slightly softened at ends, about 10 minutes, flipping potatoes halfway through cooking. Transfer potatoes directly to oven rack and bake until skewer glides easily through flesh and potatoes yield to gentle pressure, 18 to 20 minutes.

2.
Hold potato with pot holder or kitchen towel and peel with paring knife. Process potato through ricer or food mill onto rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining potatoes. Gently spread potatoes into even layer and cool for 5 minutes.

3.
Transfer 3 cups (16 ounces) warm potatoes to large bowl. Using fork, gently stir in egg until just combined. Sprinkle flour and 1 teaspoon salt over potato mixture. Using fork, gently combine until no pockets of dry flour remain. Press mixture into rough dough, transfer to lightly floured counter, and gently knead until smooth but slightly sticky, about 1 minute, lightly dusting counter with flour as needed to prevent sticking.

4.
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and dust liberally with flour. Cut dough into 8 pieces. Lightly dust counter with flour. Gently roll piece of dough into ¹⁄
₂
-inch-thick rope, dusting with flour to prevent sticking. Cut rope into ³⁄
₄
-inch lengths. Hold fork, with tines facing down, in 1 hand and press side of each piece of dough against ridged surface with thumb to make indentation in center; roll dough down and off tines to form ridges. Transfer formed gnocchi to prepared sheets and repeat with remaining dough.

5. FOR THE SAUCE:
Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, swirling occasionally, until butter is browned and releases nutty aroma, about 1¹⁄
₂
minutes. Off heat, add shallot and sage, stirring until shallot is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and salt and cover to keep warm.

6.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Using parchment paper as sling, add half of gnocchi and cook until firm and just cooked through, about 90 seconds (gnocchi should float to surface after about 1 minute). Remove gnocchi with slotted spoon, transfer to skillet with sauce, and cover to keep warm. Repeat with remaining gnocchi and transfer to skillet. Gently toss gnocchi with sauce to combine and serve.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Adjust the consistency of the sauce with up to 2 tablespoons cooking water before adding it to the gnocchi.

Bring cream and wine to simmer in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Gradually add Gorgonzola while whisking constantly and cook until melted and sauce is thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in chives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
₄
CUPS

Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.

1.
Microwave broth and mushrooms in covered bowl until steaming, about 1 minute. Let stand until softened, about 5 minutes. Drain mushrooms through fine-mesh strainer lined with coffee filter, reserving liquid and chopping porcini.

2.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add chopped mushrooms, shallot, and garlic and cook until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in reserved porcini soaking liquid, wine, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil, scraping up any browned bits. Bring mixture to boil and cook, whisking occasionally, until reduced and measures 1¹⁄
₄
cups, 6 to 9 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Serve with extra grated Parmesan cheese on the side.

Whisk broth, Parmesan, cream, egg yolks, and pepper together in bowl until smooth. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add pancetta and cook until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in walnuts and cook until golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Off heat, gradually add broth mixture, whisking constantly. Return skillet to medium heat and cook, stirring often, until sauce is thickened slightly, 2 to 4 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Ricotta gnocchi is the lighter cousin of potato gnocchi. But achieving the right texture requires more than a simple ricotta-for-potato swap. We wanted an easy-to-make but delicate ricotta gnocchi that cooked up light and tender, not heavy and dull. To keep the dough light and workable, we drained the ricotta, replaced much of the flour with dried bread crumbs, and refrigerated it for 15 minutes before rolling it out and slicing it into small pillow-shaped pieces. A short simmer was all the cooking required for our perfected ricotta gnocchi.

SERVES 4

When rolling the gnocchi, use just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to your hands and work surface. If you prefer, replace the browned butter sauce with
PORCINI MUSHROOM SAUCE WITH CREAM
or
CLASSIC BASIL PESTO
.

1.
Set fine-mesh strainer over bowl and line with 3 coffee filters. Place ricotta in prepared strainer, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.

2.
Meanwhile, pulse bread in food processor to fine crumbs, about 15 pulses. Spread crumbs on rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until dry and just beginning to turn golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to bowl, cool to room temperature, then stir in Parmesan and flour.

3.
Transfer drained ricotta to now-empty food processor and pulse until curds break down into fine, grainy consistency, about 8 pulses. Transfer ricotta to large bowl and stir in egg, basil, parsley, ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon salt, and pepper. Stir in bread-crumb mixture until well combined. Refrigerate dough until slightly tacky and few crumbs stick to fingers when touched, about 15 minutes. (If dough is too wet and several crumbs stick to fingers, stir in flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until dough is slightly tacky.)

4.
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and dust lightly with flour. Cut dough into 8 pieces. Lightly dust counter with flour. Gently roll piece of dough into ³⁄
₄
-inch-thick rope, dusting with flour to prevent sticking. Cut rope into ³⁄
₄
-inch lengths and transfer to prepared sheets. Repeat with remaining dough.

5.
Bring 4 quarts water to simmer in large pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Using parchment paper as sling, add half of gnocchi and cook until firm and just cooked through, about 3 minutes, adjusting heat as needed to maintain simmer (gnocchi should float to surface after about 1 minute). Remove gnocchi with slotted spoon, transfer to skillet with sauce, and cover to keep warm. Repeat with remaining gnocchi and transfer to skillet. Gently toss gnocchi with sauce to combine and serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD:
Sheets of gnocchi can be wrapped with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours or frozen; when completely frozen, gnocchi can be transferred to zipper-lock bag and stored in freezer for up to 1 month. Spread frozen gnocchi on baking sheet and thaw overnight in refrigerator or at room temperature for 1 hour before cooking.