The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (99 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Determined to formulate a really good 90-minute meat lasagna recipe, we came up with several shortcuts: We made a 12-minute tomato meat sauce by cooking onions, garlic, and meatloaf mixture (ground beef, pork, and veal) and then adding cream and tomatoes. We chose no-boil lasagna noodles to eliminate the process of boiling and draining. We created a classic cheese layer quickly with ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan, fresh basil, and an egg to help thicken and bind the mixture. Covering the lasagna with aluminum foil before baking helped soften the noodles; removing the foil during the last 25 minutes of baking allowed the cheeses to brown properly.
SERVES 8 TO 10
You can substitute equal amounts of 85 percent lean ground beef, ground veal, and ground pork for the meatloaf mix (the total amount of meat should be 1 pound).
TOMATO-MEAT SAUCE
1 | tablespoon olive oil |
1 | onion, chopped fine |
6 | garlic cloves, minced |
1 | pound meatloaf mix |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
¹⁄ | cup heavy cream |
1 | (28-ounce) can tomato puree |
1 | (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained |
CHEESE FILLING
14 | ounces (1³⁄ |
2¹⁄ | ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh basil |
1 | large egg |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
16 | ounces whole-milk mozzarella, shredded (4 cups) |
12 | no-boil lasagna noodles |
1. FOR THE SAUCE:
Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in meatloaf mix, salt, and pepper, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, breaking up any large pieces with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Add cream, bring to simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates and only rendered fat remains, about 4 minutes. Stir in tomato puree and diced tomatoes, bring to simmer, and cook until flavors meld, about 3 minutes. Set aside. (Sauce can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 2 days; reheat before assembling lasagna.)
2. FOR THE CHEESE FILLING:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Combine ricotta, 1 cup Parmesan, basil, egg, salt, and pepper in bowl.
3.
Spread ¹⁄
4
cup meat sauce evenly over bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking dish (avoiding large chunks of meat). Arrange 3 noodles in single layer on top of sauce. Spread each noodle evenly with 3 tablespoons of ricotta mixture and sprinkle entire layer with 1 cup mozzarella. Spoon 1¹⁄
2
cups meat sauce over top. Repeat layering of noodles, ricotta, mozzarella, and sauce 2 more times. For final layer, arrange remaining 3 noodles on top and cover completely with remaining sauce. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup mozzarella, then sprinkle with remaining ¹⁄
4
cup Parmesan.
4.
Cover dish tightly with aluminum foil that has been sprayed with vegetable oil spray. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove foil, and continue to bake until cheese is spotty brown and edges are just bubbling, about 25 minutes longer. Cool lasagna for 15 minutes before serving.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
The Neapolitan lasagna traditionally made during the festival of Carnivale boasts small, tender meatballs, distinct layers, and a moderate amount of deeply flavored sauce, but it requires a host of ingredients and takes an entire day to prepare. In search of a recipe that would replicate those classic tastes without all the labor, we started with the cheese. Creamy whole-milk mozzarella was favored over ricotta, as mozzarella melted into gooey layers that bound the noodles together nicely. A little Parmesan or Pecorino-Romano provided a pleasant contrast to the mozzarella’s mild taste. Baking the meatballs in the oven (rather than frying them in oil) made this step a snap. A simple tomato sauce proved best here and we made one by simmering crushed tomatoes with garlic for just 10 minutes and finished it with fresh basil. When layered with the meatballs, cheeses, and noodles, it gave us a lasagna just as satisfying as the traditional Neapolitan version.
SERVES 8
The size of the noodles will depend on the brand; if the noodles are short (such as DeCecco) you will need to layer them crosswise in the dish, but if they are long (such as Barilla and Ronzoni) layer them lengthwise in the dish. Regardless of which brand of noodle you are using, there should be 3 noodles per layer.
MEATBALLS AND SAUCE
1 | pound 85 percent lean ground beef |
2 | ounces Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (1 cup) |
¹⁄ | cup plain dried bread crumbs |
2 | large eggs, lightly beaten |
¹⁄ | cup minced fresh basil or parsley |
Salt and pepper | |
3 | tablespoons olive oil |
2 | garlic cloves, minced |
1 | (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes |
NOODLES AND CHEESE
12 | dried lasagna noodles |
1 | tablespoon salt |
1 | pound whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (4 cups) |
4 | ounces Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (2 cups) |
1. FOR THE MEATBALLS AND SAUCE:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Spray rimmed baking sheet with vegetable oil spray; set aside. Mix beef, Parmesan, bread crumbs, eggs, 5 tablespoons basil, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon pepper together until uniform. Pinch off scant 1 teaspoon–size pieces of mixture, roll into small balls, and arrange on prepared baking sheet. Bake meatballs until just cooked through and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer meatballs to paper towel–lined platter and set aside. Reduce heat to 400 degrees.
2.
Heat oil and garlic in medium saucepan over medium heat until garlic starts to sizzle, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes, bring to simmer, and cook until sauce thickens slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Off heat, stir in remaining 3 tablespoons basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir meatballs into sauce and cover to keep warm until needed.
3. FOR THE NOODLES AND CHEESE:
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Stir in noodles and salt and cook, stirring often, until pasta is al dente. Drain noodles and rinse them under cold water until cool. Spread noodles out in single layer over clean kitchen towels. (Do not use paper towels; they will stick to pasta.)
4.
Spray 13 by 9-inch baking dish with oil spray. Smear 3 tablespoons tomato sauce (without any meatballs) over bottom of pan. Arrange 3 noodles in single layer on top of sauce, making sure that noodles touch but do not overlap. Spread 1¹⁄
2
cups tomato sauce with meatballs evenly over pasta. Sprinkle evenly with 1 cup mozzarella and ¹⁄
2
cup Parmesan. Repeat layering pasta, tomato sauce with meatballs, and cheeses 2 more times. For final layer, arrange remaining 3 noodles on top, cover with remaining 1 cup mozzarella, and sprinkle with remaining ¹⁄
2
cup Parmesan.
5.
Bake until cheese on top turns golden brown in spots and sauce is bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes. Let lasagna cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Most versions of baked ziti are forgettable: overcooked ziti in a dull, grainy sauce topped with a rubbery mass of mozzarella. We wanted to rescue baked ziti so we could have perfectly al dente pasta, a rich and flavorful sauce, and melted cheese in every bite. For a sauce that’s big on flavor and light on prep, we cooked sautéed garlic with canned diced tomatoes and tomato sauce. Fresh basil and dried oregano added aromatic flavor. Rather than using traditional ricotta, we turned to cottage cheese—its curds have a texture similar to ricotta, but are creamier and tangier. For more flavor, we combined the cottage cheese with eggs, Parmesan, and heavy cream thickened with cornstarch. Adding this milky, tangy mixture to the tomato sauce produced a sauce that was bright, rich, and creamy. When it came to the pasta, we undercooked it and then baked it with a generous amount of sauce for perfectly al dente pasta and plenty of sauce left to keep our baked ziti moist. As for the mozzarella, we cut it into small cubes instead of shredding it, which dotted the finished casserole with gooey bits of cheese.
SERVES 8 TO 10
We prefer baked ziti made with heavy cream, but whole milk can be substituted by increasing the amount of cornstarch to 2 teaspoons and increasing the cooking time in step 3 by 1 to 2 minutes. Part-skim mozzarella can also be used.
1 | pound ziti, penne, or other short, tubular pasta |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | pound (2 cups) whole-milk or 1-percent cottage cheese |
2 | large eggs |
3 | ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1¹⁄ |
2 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
5 | garlic cloves, minced |
1 | (28-ounce) can tomato sauce |
1 | (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes |
1 | teaspoon dried oregano |
¹⁄ | cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil |
1 | teaspoon sugar |
³⁄ | teaspoon cornstarch |
1 | cup heavy cream |
8 | ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, cut into ¹⁄ |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until pasta begins to soften but is not yet cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain pasta and leave in colander (do not wash pot).
2.
Meanwhile, whisk cottage cheese, eggs, and 1 cup Parmesan together in medium bowl; set aside. Heat oil and garlic in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until garlic turns golden but not brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, diced tomatoes, and oregano, bring to simmer, and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in ¹⁄
2
cup basil and sugar and season with salt and pepper to taste.
3.
Stir cornstarch and heavy cream together in small bowl; transfer mixture to now-empty pot set over medium heat. Bring to simmer and cook until thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in cottage cheese mixture, 1 cup of tomato sauce, and ³⁄
4
cup of mozzarella. Add pasta to sauce and toss to combine.
4.
Transfer pasta to 13 by 9-inch baking dish and spread remaining tomato sauce evenly over top. Sprinkle with remaining ³⁄
4
cup mozzarella and remaining ¹⁄
2
cup Parmesan. Cover dish tightly with aluminum foil that has been sprayed with vegetable oil spray. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove foil and continue to bake until cheese is bubbling and beginning to brown, about 30 minutes longer. Cool casserole for 20 minutes, then sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons basil and serve.