time, another place. The dust bowl '30's and a rattletrap, homemade Model T truck heading into the setting sun. As I sat down, they glanced at me with the narrow
eyes of country people, looking me over carefully as if I
were an abandoned wreck they planned to cannibalize
1
for spare parts. I nodded blithely to let them know that
I might be a wreck but I hadn't been totaled yet. They
returned my silent greeting with blank eyes and
thoughtful nods that seemed to suggest that accidents
could be arranged.
Already whipped by too many miles on the wrong
roads, I let them think whatever they might. As I
ordered a beer from the middle-aged barmaid, she
slipped out of her daydreams and into a sleepy grin.
When she opened the bottle, the bulldog came out of
his drunken nap, belched like a dragon, then heaved his
narrow haunches upright and waddled across three
rickety stools through the musty cloud of stale beer and
bulldog breath to trade me a wet, stringy kiss for a hit
off my beer. I didn't offer him any, so he upped the
ante by drooling all over my sunburnt elbow. Trahearne barked a sharp command and splashed a measure of beer into the ashtray. The bulldog gave me
a mournful stare, sighed, then ambled back to a sure
thing.
As I wiped the dogspit off my arm with a damp bar
rag that had been used too lately and too often for the
same chore, I asked the barmaid about a pay telephone. She pointed silently toward the gray dusty reaches beyond the pool table, where a black telephone
hung from ashen shadows.
As I passed Trahearne, he had his heavy arm draped
over the bulldog's wrinkled shoulders and recited
poetry into the stubby ear: "The bluff we face is
cracking up . . . before this green Pacific wind
. .. this . . . The whale's briny stink ... ah, christ . . .
dogged we were, old friend, doggerel we became, and
dogshit we too shall be . . . " Then he chuckled aimlessly, like an old man searching for his spectacles.
I didn't mind if he talked to himself. I had been
talking to myself for a long time too.
2
That was what I had been doing the afternoon
Trahearne's ex-wife had called me-sitting in my little
tin office in Meriwether, Montana, staring across the
alley at the overflowing Dempster Dumpster behind
the discount store, and telling myself that I didn't mind
if business was slow, that I liked it in fact. Then the
telephone buzzed. Traheame's ex-wife was all business.
In less than a minute, she had explained that her
ex-husband's health and drinking habits were both bad
and that she wanted me to find him, to track him down
on his running binge before he drank himself into an
early grave. I suggested that we talk about the job face
to face, but she wanted me on the road immediately, no
time wasted driving the three hours up to Cauldron
Springs. To save time, she had already hired an air-taxi
out of Kalispell, which was at this very moment winging
its way south toward Meriwether with a cashier's check
for a retainer, a list of Trahearne's favorite bars around
the West-particularly those bars about which he had
written poems after other binges-and a dust-jacket
photo off his last novel.
"What if I don't want the job?" I asked.
"After you see the size of the retainer, you'll want
the job," she answered coolly, then hung up.
When I picked up the large manila folder at the
Meriwether Airport, I glanced at the check and
decided to take the job even before I studied the
photograph. Traheame looked like a big man, a retired
longshoreman maybe, as he leaned against a pillar on
the front porch of the Cauldron Springs Hotel, a drink
shining in one hand, a cigar smoking in the other. His
age showed, even through his boyish grin, but he
clearly hadn't gone to Cauldron Springs for the waters.
Behind him, through the broad darkened doorway, two
arthritic ghosts in matching plaid bathrobes shuffled
toward the sunlight. Their ancient faces seemed to be
3
smiling in anticipation of dipping their brittle bones
into the hot mineral waters.
In the years that I had spent looking for lost
husbands, wives, and children, I had learned not to
think that I could stare into a one-dimensional face and
see the person behind the photograph, but the big man
looked like the sort who would cut a wide swath and
leave an easy trail.
At first, it was too easy. Back at my office, I called
five or six of the bars and caught the old man up in
Ovando, Montana, at a great little bar called Trixi's
Antler Bar. Trahearne had left, though, by the time I
drove the eighty miles, telling the bartender that he was
off to 1\vo Dot to check out the beer-can collection in
one of 1\vo Dot's two bars. I chased him across
Montana but when I reached 1\vo Dot, Trahearne had
gone on to the 666 in Miles City. From there, he
headed south to Buffalo, Wyoming, to write an epic
poem about the Johnson County War. Or so he told the
barmaid. As it turned out, Trahearne never made a
move without discussing it with everybody in the bar.
Which made him easy to follow but impossible to catch.
We covered the West, touring the bars, seeing the
sights. The Chugwater Hotel down in Wyoming, the
Mayflower in Cheyenne, the Stockman's in Rawlins, a
barbed-wire collection in the Sacajawea Hotel Bar in
Three Forks, Montana, rocks in Fossil, Oregon, drunken Mormons all over northern Utah and southern Idaho--circling, wandering in an aimless drift. 1\vice I
hired private planes to get ahead of the old man, and
twice he failed to show up until after I had left. I liked
his taste in bars but I was in and out of so many that
they all began to seem like the same endless bar. By the
middle of the second week, my expenses were beginning to embarrass even me, so I called the former Mrs.
Trahearne to ask how much money she wanted to pour
down the rolling rathole. "Whatever is necessary," she
4
answered, sounding irritated that I had bothered to
ask.
So I settled back into the bucket seat of my fancy El
Camino pickup for a long siege of moving on, following
Trahearne from bar to bar, down whatever roads suited
his fancy, covering the ground like an excited redbone
pup just to keep from losing him, following him as he
drifted on, his tail turned into some blizzard wind only
he felt, his ear cocked to hear the strains of some
distant song only he heard.
By the middle of the second week, I had that same
high lonesome keen whistling in my chest, and if I
hadn't needed the money so badly, I might have said to
hell with Abraham Trahearne, stuck some Willie
Nelson into my tape deck, and tried to drown in a
whiskey river of my own. Taking up moving on again.
But I get paid for finding folks, not for losing myself, so
I held on his trail like an old hound after his last coon.
And it made me even crazier than Trahearne. I found
myself chasing ghosts across gray mountain passes,
then down through green valleys riddled with the snows
of late spring. I took to sleeping in the same motel beds
he had, trying to dream him up, took to getting drunk
in the same bars, hoping for a whiskey vision. They
carne all right, those bleak motel dreams, those whiskey
visions, but they were out of my own drifting past. As
for Trahearne, I didn't have a clue.
Once I even humped the same sad young whore in a
trailerhouse complex out on the Nevada desert. She
was a frail, skinny little bit out of Cincinnati, and she
had brought her gold mine out West, thinking perhaps
it might assay better, but her shaft had collapsed, her
veins petered out, and the tracks on her thin arms
looked as if they had been dug with a rusty pick. After I
had slaked too many nights of aimless barstool lust
amid her bones, I asked her again about Trahearne.
She didn't say anything at first, she just lay on her
s
crushed bed-sheets, hitting on a joint and gazing
beyond the aluminum ceiling into the cold desert night.
"You reckon they actually went up there on the
moon?" she asked seriously.
"I don't know," I admitted.
"Me neither," she whispered into the smoke.
I buttoned up my Levis and fled into the desert, into
a landscape blasted by moonlight and shadow.
Then in Reno I lost the trail, had to circle the city in
ever-widening loops, talking to bartenders and
service-station attendants until I found a pump jockey
in Truckee who remembered the big man in his Caddy
convertible asking about the mud baths in Calistoga.
The mud was still warm when I got there, but his trail
was as cold as the eyes of the old folks dying around the
hot baths.
When I called Trahearne's ex-wife to admit failure,
she told me that she had received a postcard from him,
a picture of the Golden Gate and a cryptic couplet.
Dogs, they say, are man's best friend, but their pants
have no pockets, their thirst no end. "Traheame has this
odd affinity for bar dogs," she told me, "particularly
those who ddnk as well as do tricks. Once he spent
three weeks in Frenchtown, Montana, drinking with a
mutt who wore a tiny crushed officer's cap, sunglasses,
and a corncob pipe. Traheame said they discussed the
Pacific campaign over shots of blackberry brandy." I
told her that it was her money and that if she wanted
me to wander around the Bay Area looking for a
drinking bar dog, I would surely comply. That's what
she wanted, so I hooked it up, headed for San
Francisco, a fancy detective hot on the trail of a
drinking bar dog, a fool on her errand.
I should have guessed that the city of lights would be
rife with bar dogs-dancing dogs and singing dogs, even
hallucinating hounds--so it wasn't until three days
6
later, drinking gimlets with a pink poodle in Sausalito,
that I heard about the beer-drinking bulldog over by
Sonoma.
The battered frame building was set fifty yards off the
Petaluma road, and Trahearne's red Cadillac convertible was parked in front. In the days when the old highway had been new, back before it had been rebuilt
along more efficient lines, the beer joint had been a
service station. The faded ghost of a flying red horse
still haunted the weathered clapboard walls of the
building. A small herd of abandoned cars, ranging from
a russet Henry J to a fairly new but badly wrecked
black Dodge Charger, stood hock deep in the dusty
Johnson grass and weeds, the empty sockets of their
headlights dreaming of Pegasus and asphalt flight. The
place didn't even have a name, just a faded sign wanly
promising BEER as it swung from the canted portico.
The old glass-tanked pumps were long gone-probably
off to Sausalito to open an antique shop-but the
rusted bolts of their bases still dangled upward from the
concrete like finger bones from a shallow grave.
I parked beside Trahearne's Caddy, got out to stretch
the miles out of my legs, then walked out of the spring
sunshine into the dusty shade of the joint, my boot
heels rocking gently on the warped floorboards, my
sigh relieved in the darkened air. This was the place,
the place I would have come on my own wandering
binge, come here and lodged like a marble in a crack,
this place, a haven for California Okies and exiled
Texans, a home for country folk lately dispossessed,
their eyes so empty of hope that they reflect hot,
windy plains, spare, almost Biblical sweeps of horizon
broken only by the spines of an orphaned rocking chair,
and beyond this, clouded with rage, the reflections of
orange groves and ax handles. This could just as easily
7