When All Hell Breaks Loose (71 page)

Grades of Kerosene

There are different grades of kerosene, and if you do decide to use a kerosene lamp in the home, you will want the best grade possible. The grade or quality of the kerosene, how clear and clean it is, will influence how often you'll need to replace the lamp wick, how clean a burn and how much light you'll get, and how much the lamp smells. The better the grade of kerosene, the longer your wicks and your health will last. Supposedly the best grade of kerosene that can be purchased for lamps with the least amount of odor is from the Aladdin Company and is called Genuine Aladdin Lamp Oil, which is available from any Aladdin dealer. Although it's called "oil," it's really kerosene in this instance.

The next-best grade of kerosene is called "K-1" and is usually available at most hardware stores in the paint section. However, due to a recent government law on motor fuel tax, quality K-1 kerosene is harder and harder to find. Rural gas stations may also have bulk, taxed kerosene at the pump. There are different grades of K-1 as well so check to see if the stuff you're about to buy is as clear as water and virtually odorless. If you can, avoid grades of kerosene that have been dyed red, stink badly, or are yellowish in color. These impurities will reduce the light output of the lamp, shorten the life of the wick (the dye clogs the wick), and potentially shorten your life if you use them in tight, enclosed areas. For the lamp collector in you, crummy grades of kerosene can also discolor the lamp bowl itself, and some older Aladdin lamps go for hundreds or thousands of dollars.

Some lamps look and operate much like a kerosene lamp, but burn lamp oil instead. Commercial lamp oil typically comes in two grades and is available by the pint or the gallon. For indoor use, get the best quality oil you can find such as 99 percent pure paraffin lamp oil. The other cheaper variety is usually reserved for tiki torches or other outside lighting options. Many stores that sell lamp oil only do so during the holidays. Be aware of that limitation and stock up when you can.

White-Gas Lanterns

A few decades ago, no camping trip was complete without the familiar, forest green, manually pressurized, Coleman brand white-gas lantern in the one- or two-mantle model. "White" gas is a purified form of gasoline—without additives or dyes—that's not suitable for use as a motor fuel. While still very popular (I must have three or four of them), white-gas lanterns are being phased out for the more convenient propane or electric lanterns. White gas can also be used in camp stoves. If you have and use the white-gas variety, use caution about storing and using the fuel, especially around kids and rambunctious pets.

Propane Lanterns

Propane (a fuel that becomes liquid when compressed) lanterns are more convenient, safer to use, and less messy than the older-style white-gas variety. I prefer storing propane containers over white gas any day, as they have a veritably indefinite shelf life if the containers are protected from moisture (which can cause corrosion of the container) and excess heat. Although pressurized propane canisters can be deadly, there is usually not much that can go wrong, as the fuel stays inside the canister until it's needed. How long the canister will last, like any fuel, depends on how high you turn up the lantern, and all mantle-type lanterns do kick out great light.

Operating a newer camping-size propane lantern is easy. Preburn the new mantles (if the old ones are shot) and put back on the glass globe that surrounds them. Then screw the propane canister directly into the bottom of the lantern. Attach the included plastic base to the bottom of the propane canister and you're ready to turn on the fuel and "click" the automatic sparking lighter, no match required. The Coleman brand lantern also has a really cool break-apart design where everything except the propane canister fits neatly and securely into its own plastic carrying case. Buying the smaller propane canisters is the more expensive way to go (although they do go on sale at the discount stores), and it sucks to throw them all away, but. . .many hardware stores sell an attachment that allows you to refill the smaller canisters from a larger propane container. You know how things work today, so check local rules and regulations to see if your area allows for the refilling of small containers.

Propane lanterns are my choice for lighting up the night on some of my vehicle-based survival skills courses. Their extreme durability and packability, along with the convenience, simplicity, and relative safety of the fuel, make them great options around potentially "green" and clumsy students in the field. And of course, the same small propane canisters can be used with the forest green Coleman cook stove.

Battery-Powered Lanterns

Battery-powered lanterns are a super option for families who have small children. Short of junior throwing one at his little sister, or knocking it over, breaking the glass globe, and rolling in the aftermath, they are as safe as any battery-powered flashlight. Although models are available that use a standard bulb, the fluorescent-bulb models are more battery efficient. Battery-powered lanterns put out a good amount of light (although not as much as their propane and liquid-fuel-powered brothers) and have zero weird fumes or the potential fire danger of fuel-based models. Some feature an adjustment knob that allows the user to choose how much light is needed—from dim to full blast—which will, of course, determine how long your batteries will last. Depending on the make and model, these lanterns may use regular disposable batteries, rechargeable replaceable batteries, or permanently installed rechargeable batteries. Some of the rechargeable battery models must be brought to a full charge every few months whether they are used or not. Some rechargeable battery-powered lanterns can be literally plugged into an electrical outlet to charge, or can be charged using an automobile 12-volt system or by being attached to a small photovoltaic solar panel. Fancier rechargeable lanterns can be left plugged in full time and set up to turn on during a power failure. I know these conveniences are nice, but use caution when setting up your emergency system to rely on grid power when the grid itself is in question.

Whatever brand of lantern you choose, whether liquid fueled or battery powered, choose a high-quality model with easily available fuel and replacement parts. For parts that are destined to naturally wear out, buy spare parts now and safely store as much fuel as you think you'll need for your emergency.

Solar Photovoltaics

At my place, anything that requires electricity runs off my independent solar power system, from an electric cement mixer to a microwave, blender, stereo, washing machine, computer, refrigerator, power drills, saws, and all kinds of lighting. While
passive solar
involves taking advantage of the sun's free energy for heating through the proper orientation of a structure,
active solar
requires many more moving parts such as photovoltaic panels that collect sunlight, inverters that change DC current to AC, batteries for storing the harnessed energy for nighttime use, charge controllers, wiring, and a bunch of other doodads needed to produce and maintain electrical power.

That said, lighting is one of the easiest things to accomplish with a solar power system. Even many of the larger discount stores now carry compact fluorescent, energy-saving bulbs, and with the advent of LED lights, power draw on a solar system can be next to nothing. The compact fluorescent lightbulbs that I use have a light output of 900 lumens, the equivalent to a 60-watt lightbulb, while using only 13 watts of energy! As an added bonus, they have a supposed life span of 10,000 hours. I've been using my bulbs for nearly two years straight and haven't needed to replace one yet. Folks, crisis or not, get your butts down to the store and change out as many of your old incandescent bulbs, when they blow, as you can with these energy-efficient wonders. I've even bought them on sale at prices lower than conventional light bulbs.

Anyhow, my solar system was not cheap to purchase and install—and I received discounts from friends who sold me the stuff and installed it. It won't make sense for many homes to convert to solar power from the expense standpoint alone. Mini-systems that will run basic essentials in an emergency can be put together fairly cheaply—real cheaply if you buy some of the items used. My first solar system consisted of a used solar panel I found in the classified section of the newspaper, one battery with a dinky charge controller, scrap wiring, and a 175-watt cheapo inverter available in the auto section of most discount stores. That was five years ago and it's still running strong, capable of powering a couple of lights, a laptop computer, and a small stereo all at once.

Solar-powered electricity is a possibility for most parts of the nation depending on terrain and climate, but don't fixate on needing to run your electric lights or dishwasher in the face of a catastrophe—use balance in all things, never forgetting your survival priorities.

Portable Battery Packs

Several manufacturers make a portable suitcaselike power source built around a sealed lead acid battery. Most of these have a cigarette lighter adapter, a light, and jumper cables to jump-start your vehicle from the stored power. They also feature an AC power cord to let you charge up or keep the battery charged until it's needed. My model even has a built-in air compressor in case of a flat tire. These battery packs can run stingy power use LED lights for quite a while before losing their juice. While handy and reasonably priced at most discount or auto parts stores, they can be finicky about being charged and holding the charge when they get older. Pay attention to the directions if you get one and do what they recommend for the maximum life of your unit.

Generators

During the Y2K insanity, generators were sold out for weeks at all the hardware stores. I do love generators, as noisy and smelly as some of the larger ones can be. I still have the one that helped build my home by running an assortment of power tools and lighting. Many people are attracted to generators, as they offer the allure of being able to function normally, as far as appliances go, in the aftermath of a disaster. For some places, such as a hospital, it makes perfect sense to have backup power. Only you know how important it will be to use the washing machine and dishwasher when the sky is falling.

Larger generators made to power an entire household can be wired directly into the home by qualified personnel and can even turn on automatically if and when the grid goes down. Special care should be given to the toxic carbon monoxide fumes put off by the running generator. It should be adequately vented away from the house, which the installation professional you hire should be acutely aware of.

Smaller generators are very common and can be seen daily in the back of many building contractors' pickup trucks. These generators will not run your house, but will allow you to operate an assortment of appliances. Similar to solar photovoltaics, you can research the wattage of what you wish to operate and compare it to the wattage power put out by the various-sized generators. The more things you want to run at one time, the bigger the generator you'll need.

Generators are not cheap; the cheaper the model the more problems you are likely to have. If a generator is a major part of your survival backup plan, buy the best one you can afford. However, the more your family relies on a system that involves many moving parts for their safety and comfort, the more you're putting yourself between a rock and a hard place when, not if, those moving parts fail. Generators are like kids and require maintenance and upkeep. They will need to be fed on a regular basis and flammable fuels in any quantity are sketchy to store safely. They might be cranky on cold mornings and not want to start. They will be noisy, which can irritate neighbors and telegraph to the entire neighborhood that you have power. They can smell from leaky oil, carbon monoxide fumes, and the fuel they require to operate. And of course, if it's not already apparent, generators generate only electricity, so will do nothing for your natural gas or propane appliances such as heating systems, stoves, and ovens. Do you want to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to have your lamps work and run the refrigerator?

I woke up one night to the sound of an engine near my rural homestead. As I had never heard the noise before from that direction, I went outside to investigate. It was my neighbors visiting their land from the big city. They were sitting around a peaceful campfire, yelling over the racket of their generator a few feet away that powered a single light bulb for who knows what purpose. Separate your family's wants from their needs now. Whether a generator is right for your family or not, don't forget the sacred aspect of simplicity in all things. The simpler your disaster plan, the easier it will be to initiate and follow in times of intense stress and fear.