It was the name, she still thinks, that got her the interview and then the job. The job with an avant-garde magazine, the kind that was printed on matte stock in black and white, with overexposed close-ups of women with hair blowing over their eyes, one nostril prominent:
the razor’s edge
, it was called. Haircuts as art, some real art, film reviews, a little Stardust, wardrobes of ideas that were clothes and of clothes that were ideas – the metaphysical shoulder pad. She learned her trade well, hands-on. She learned what worked.
She made her way up the ladder, from layout to design, then to the supervision of whole spreads, and then whole issues. It wasn’t easy, but it was worth it. She had become a creator; she created total looks. After a while she could walk down the street in Soho or stand in the lobby at openings and witness her handiwork incarnate, strolling around in outfits she’d put together, spouting her warmed-over pronouncements. It was like being God, only God had never got around to off-the-rack lines.
By that time her face had lost its roundness, though the teeth of course remained: there was something to be said for North American dentistry. She’d shaved off most of her hair, worked on the drop-dead stare, perfected a certain turn of the neck that conveyed an aloof inner authority. What you had to make them believe was that you knew something they didn’t know yet. What you also had to make them believe was that they too could know this thing, this thing that would give them eminence and power and sexual allure, that would attract envy to them – but for a price. The price of the magazine. What they could never get through their heads was that it was done entirely with cameras. Frozen light, frozen time. Given the angle, she could make any woman look ugly. Any man as well. She could make anyone look beautiful, or at least interesting. It was all photography, it was all iconography. It was all in the choosing eye. This was the thing that could never be bought, no matter how much of your pitiful monthly wage you blew on snakeskin.
Despite the status,
the razor’s edge
was fairly low-paying. Kat herself could not afford many of the things she contextualized so well. The grottiness and expense of London began to get to her; she got tired of gorging on the canapés at literary launches in order to scrimp on groceries, tired of the fuggy smell of cigarettes ground into the red-and-maroon carpeting of pubs, tired of the pipes bursting every time it froze in winter, and of the Clarissas and Melissas
and Penelopes at the magazine rabbiting on about how they had been literally, absolutely, totally freezing all night, and how it literally, absolutely, totally, usually never got that cold. It always got that cold. The pipes always burst. Nobody thought of putting in real pipes, ones that would not burst next time. Burst pipes were an English tradition, like so many others.
Like, for instance, English men. Charm the knickers off you with their mellow vowels and frivolous verbiage, and then, once they’d got them off, panic and run. Or else stay and whinge. The English called it
whinging
instead of whining. It was better, really. Like a creaking hinge. It was a traditional compliment to be whinged at by an Englishman. It was his way of saying he trusted you, he was conferring upon you the privilege of getting to know the real him. The inner, whinging him. That was how they thought of women, secretly: whinge receptacles. Kat could play it, but that didn’t mean she liked it.
She had an advantage over the English women, though: she was of no class. She had no class. She was in a class of her own. She could roll around among the English men, all different kinds of them, secure in the knowledge that she was not being measured against the class yardsticks and accent-detectors they carried around in their back pockets, was not subject to the petty snobberies and resentments that lent such richness to their inner lives. The flip side of this freedom was that she was beyond the pale. She was a colonial – how fresh, how vital, how anonymous, how finally of no consequence. Like a hole in the wall, she could be told all secrets and then be abandoned with no guilt.
She was too smart, of course. The English men were very competitive; they liked to win. Several times it hurt. Twice she had abortions, because the men in question were not up for the alternative. She learned to say that she didn’t want children anyway, that if she longed for a rug-rat she would buy a gerbil. Her life began to seem
long. Her adrenalin was running out. Soon she would be thirty, and all she could see ahead was more of the same.
This was how things were when Gerald turned up. “You’re terrific,” he said, and she was ready to hear it, even from him, even though
terrific
was a word that had probably gone out with fifties crew-cuts. She was ready for his voice by that time too: the flat, metallic nasal tone of the Great Lakes, with its clear hard r’s and its absence of theatricality. Dull normal. The speech of her people. It came to her suddenly that she was an exile.
Gerald was scouting, Gerald was recruiting. He’d heard about her, looked at her work, sought her out. One of the big companies back in Toronto was launching a new fashion-oriented magazine, he said: upmarket, international in its coverage, of course, but with some Canadian fashion in it too, and with lists of stores where the items portrayed could actually be bought. In that respect they felt they’d have it all over the competition, those American magazines that assumed you could only get Gucci in New York or Los Angeles. Heck, times had changed, you could get it in Edmonton! You could get it in Winnipeg!
Kat had been away too long. There was Canadian fashion now? The English quip would be to say that “Canadian fashion” was an oxymoron. She refrained from making it, lit a cigarette with her cyanide-green Covent Garden-boutique leather-covered lighter (as featured in the May issue of
the razor’s edge)
, looked Gerald in the eye. “London is a lot to give up,” she said levelly. She glanced around the see-me-here Mayfair restaurant where they were finishing lunch, a restaurant she’d chosen because she’d known he was paying. She’d never spend that kind of money on food otherwise. “Where would I eat?”
Gerald assured her that Toronto was now the restaurant capital of Canada. He himself would be happy to be her guide. There was a
great Chinatown, there was world-class Italian. Then he paused, took a breath. “I’ve been meaning to ask you,” he said. “About the name. Is that Kat as in Krazy?” He thought this was suggestive. She’d heard it before.
“No,” she said. “It’s Kat as in KitKat. That’s a chocolate bar. Melts in your mouth.” She gave him her stare, quirked her mouth, just a twitch.
Gerald became flustered, but he pushed on. They wanted her, they needed her, they loved her, he said in essence. Someone with her fresh, innovative approach and her experience would be worth a lot of money to them, relatively speaking. But there were rewards other than the money. She would be in on the initial concept, she would have a formative influence, she would have a free hand. He named a sum that made her gasp, inaudibly of course. By now she knew better than to betray desire.
So she made the journey back, did her three months of culture shock, tried the world-class Italian and the great Chinese, and seduced Gerald at the first opportunity, right in his junior vice-presidential office. It was the first time Gerald had been seduced in such a location, or perhaps ever. Even though it was after hours, the danger frenzied him. It was the idea of it. The daring. The image of Kat kneeling on the broadloom, in a legendary bra that until now he’d seen only in the lingerie ads of the Sunday
New York Times
, unzipping him in full view of the silver-framed engagement portrait of his wife that complemented the impossible ball-point pen set on his desk. At that time he was so straight he felt compelled to take off his wedding ring and place it carefully in the ashtray first. The next day he brought her a box of David Wood Food Shop chocolate truffles. They were the best, he told her, anxious that she should recognize their quality. She found the gesture banal, but also sweet. The banality, the sweetness, the hunger to impress: that was Gerald.
Gerald was the kind of man she wouldn’t have bothered with in London. He was not funny, he was not knowledgeable, he had little verbal charm. But he was eager, he was tractable, he was blank paper. Although he was eight years older than she was, he seemed much younger. She took pleasure from his furtive, boyish delight in his own wickedness. And he was so grateful. “I can hardly believe this is happening,” he said, more frequently than was necessary and usually in bed.
His wife, whom Kat encountered (and still encounters) at many tedious company events, helped to explain his gratitude. The wife was a priss. Her name was Cheryl. Her hair looked as if she still used big rollers and embalm-your-hairdo spray; her mind was room-by-room Laura Ashley wallpaper: tiny, unopened pastel buds arranged in straight rows. She probably put on rubber gloves to make love, and checked it off on a list afterwards. One more messy household chore. She looked at Kat as if she’d like to spritz her with air deodorizer. Kat revenged herself by picturing Cheryl’s bathrooms: hand towels embroidered with lilies, fuzzy covers on the toilet seats.
The magazine itself got off to a rocky start. Although Kat had lots of lovely money to play with, and although it was a challenge to be working in colour, she did not have the free hand Gerald had promised her. She had to contend with the company board of directors, who were all men, who were all accountants or indistinguishable from them, who were cautious and slow as moles.
“It’s simple,” Kat told them. “You bombard them with images of what they ought to be, and you make them feel grotty for being the way they are. You’re working with the gap between reality and perception. That’s why you have to hit them with something new, something they’ve never seen before, something they aren’t. Nothing sells like anxiety.”
The board, on the other hand, felt that the readership should simply be offered more of what they already had. More fur, more
sumptuous leather, more cashmere. More established names. The board had no sense of improvisation, no wish to take risks; no sporting instincts, no desire to put one over on the readers just for the hell of it. “Fashion is like hunting,” Kat told them, hoping to appeal to their male hormones, if any. “It’s playful, it’s intense, it’s predatory. It’s blood and guts. It’s erotic.” But to them it was about good taste. They wanted Dress-for-Success. Kat wanted scattergun ambush.
Everything became a compromise. Kat had wanted to call the magazine
All the Rage
, but the board was put off by the vibrations of anger in the word “rage.” They thought it was too feminist, of all things. “It’s a
forties
sound,” Kat said. “Forties is
back
. Don’t you get it?” But they didn’t. They wanted to call it
Or
. French for
gold
, and blatant enough in its values, but without any base note, as Kat told them. They sawed off at
Felice
, which had qualities each side wanted. It was vaguely French-sounding, it meant “happy” (so much less threatening than rage), and, although you couldn’t expect the others to notice, for Kat it had a feline bouquet which counteracted the laciness. She had it done in hot-pink lipstick-scrawl, which helped some. She could live with it, but it had not been her first love.
This battle has been fought and refought over every innovation in design, every new angle Kat has tried to bring in, every innocuous bit of semi-kink. There was a big row over a spread that did lingerie, half pulled off and with broken glass perfume bottles strewn on the floor. There was an uproar over the two nouveau-stockinged legs, one tied to a chair with a third, different-coloured stocking. They had not understood the man’s three-hundred-dollar leather gloves positioned ambiguously around a neck.
And so it has gone on, for five years.
After Gerald has left, Kat paces her living room. Pace, pace. Her stitches pull. She’s not looking forward to her solitary dinner of
microwaved leftovers. She’s not sure now why she came back here, to this flat burg beside the polluted inland sea. Was it Ger? Ludicrous thought but no longer out of the question. Is he the reason she stays, despite her growing impatience with him?
He’s no longer fully rewarding. They’ve learned each other too well, they take short-cuts now; their time together has shrunk from whole stolen rolling and sensuous afternoons to a few hours snatched between work and dinner-time. She no longer knows what she wants from him. She tells herself she’s worth more, she should branch out; but she doesn’t see other men, she can’t, somehow. She’s tried once or twice but it didn’t work. Sometimes she goes out to dinner or a flick with one of the gay designers. She likes the gossip.
Maybe she misses London. She feels caged, in this country, in this city, in this room. She could start with the room, she could open a window. It’s too stuffy in here. There’s an undertone of formaldehyde, from Hairball’s bottle. The flowers she got for the operation are mostly wilted, all except Gerald’s from today. Come to think of it, why didn’t he send her any at the hospital? Did he forget, or was it a message?
“Hairball,” she says, “I wish you could talk. I could have a more intelligent conversation with you than with most of the losers in this turkey farm.” Hairball’s baby teeth glint in the light; it looks as if it’s about to speak.
Kat feels her own forehead. She wonders if she’s running a temperature. Something ominous is going on, behind her back. There haven’t been enough phone calls from the magazine; they’ve been able to muddle on without her, which is bad news. Reigning queens should never go on vacation, or have operations either. Uneasy lies the head. She has a sixth sense about these things, she’s been involved in enough palace coups to know the signs, she has sensitive antennae for the footfalls of impending treachery.
The next morning she pulls herself together, downs an espresso
from her mini-machine, picks out an aggressive touch-me-if-you-dare suede outfit in armour grey, and drags herself to the office, although she isn’t due in till next week. Surprise, surprise. Whispering knots break up in the corridors, greet her with false welcome as she limps past. She settles herself at her minimalist desk, checks her mail. Her head is pounding, her stitches hurt. Ger gets wind of her arrival; he wants to see her a.s.a.p., and not for lunch.