Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child (79 page)

CHAPTER 6
INDIA INTRIGUE (1944–1945)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, John L. (Jack) Moore 5/20/94, Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald [McIntosh] 11/3/93, I. Guy Martin 9/30/94, Mary Livingston (Mrs. Dillon Ripley) 9/27/94, Fisher Howe 9/28/94, Thibaut de Saint Phalle 12/5/94.

Correspondence
: OSS colleagues: Alice C. Carson [Hiscock] to NRF, 2/6/95 and 2/23/95; Louis J. Hector to NRF, 11/96; Eleanor (Ellie) Thiry [Summers] to NRF, 9/7/94; Virginia (Peachy) Durand [Shelden] to NRF 2/3/95; Edwin J. (Ned) Putzell, Jr., to NRF, 1/14/94; Thibaut de Saint Phalle to NRF, 12/5/94; Catharine (Kitty) Carton [Swett] to NRF, 1/31/95 and 1/4/97; Byron S. Martin to NRF, 1/11/95 and 1/26/95; Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald [McIntosh] to NRF, 11/27/96, Geoffrey M. T. Jones, Pres. Veterans of OSS, to NRF, 5/19/94. JC to Sue Van Voches
(Encyclopedia of American Women)
, 10/20/72; Peggy Wheeler to JC, 7/18/44.

Archives
:
Private:
diaries of JC (“Oh So Private”), Eleanor (Ellie) Thiry [Summers] (“excerpts from letters home”), and Joseph R. Coolidge; PC to CC letters, courtesy John Moore and Rachel Child; JC and PC private records.
Schlesinger:
copies of PC letter-diary to CC, 1943–45.
Smith College:
JC and PC oral history transcript for
College. A Smith Mosaic
, 10/10/72.
National Archives:
files #9300811 and #9300812, 1993–95.
CIA:
file #F93-0455 (obtained with JC permission under the FOIA, 5/95).

Published Sources

“had a veritable genius”: Jane Foster,
An UnAmerican Lady
(London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1980): 134.

“Kandy is probably”: Philip Ziegler,
Mountbatten
(NY: Harper & Row, 1985): 279.

“direction [to] the sea” and “the future of Asia”: Barbara Tuchman,
Stilwell and the American Experience in China, 1911–45
(NY: Macmillan, 1970): 446, 455.

“a highly developed security”: Elizabeth P. MacDonald [McIntosh].
Undercover Girl
(NY: Macmillan, 1947): 26.

“one hero in my life”: Donna Lee, “The Man Behind JC,”
Boston Herald American Magazine
(May 10, 1981): 9.

“Morale in her section”: Elizabeth P. McIntosh,
The Role of Women in Intelligence
, Intelligence Profession Series No. 5 (McLean, VA: Association of Former Intelligence Officers, 1989): 35.

“held her ground”: Colonel Heppner remembered that it was Mary Livingston Eddy [Ripley], Julia’s colleague, who had the hole cut in the floor.

“OSS brain bank”: MacDonald,
Undercover Girl
, 26.

“Ceylon was an Elysium”: Jane Foster quoted in MacDonald,
Undercover Girl
, 132.

CHAPTER 7
TO CHINA WITH LOVE (1945)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, John (Jack) Moore 5/20/94, Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald [Heppner] [McIntosh] 11/3/93, I. Guy Martin 9/30/94, Mary Livingston Eddy [Ripley] 3/31/94 and 7/94, George and Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94.

Correspondence
: Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald [Heppner] [McIntosh] to NRF, 11/27/96; Byron S. Martin to NRF, 1/11/95 and 1/26/95; Louis J. Hector to NRF, 10/16/96; Edwin J. (Ned) Putzell, Jr., to NRF, 1/31/95; Virginia (Peachy) Durand [Shelden] to NRF, 2/3/95; Eleanor (Ellie) Thiry [Summers] to NRF, 9/7/94; PC to “My darling Joan,” 4/17/45.

Archives
:
Private:
copies JC and PC U.S. government records, family letters; diaries of Julia McWilliams, Eleanor (Ellie) Thiry [Summers], Virginia (Peachy) Durand, and Joseph R. Coolidge; unpublished stories by Jeanne Taylor.
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC, 1943, 1945, and 8/2/53; JC to AD, 3/18/53.
National Archives:
Ref. #9300811 and #9300812, 1993–95. CIA: file #F93-0455 (obtained with JC permission under the FOIA, 5/95).

Published Sources

“aluminum trail”: Barbara Tuchman,
Stilwell and the American Experience in China, 1911–45
(NY: Macmillan, 1970): 302.

“the C-54”: Elizabeth MacDonald,
Undercover Girl
(NY: Macmillan, 1947): 150.

“forced [and] unhappy alliance”: R. Harris Smith,
OSS: The Secret History of America’s First Central Intelligence Agency
(Berkeley: Univ. of CA, 1972): 251.

“medieval cesspool”: Theodore H. White and Annalee Jacoby.
Thunder Out of China
(London: Victor Gollancz, 1947): 154.

“the atmosphere of a frontier town”: Robert Hayden Alcorn,
No Bugles for Spies: Tales of the OSS
(London: White Lion, 1977): 63.

“Old Testament Christian”:
Theodore White at Large: The Best of His Magazine Writing 1939–1986
, ed. Edward T. Thompson (NY: Pantheon, 1992): 43. Originally published in
Life
, March 2, 1942.

“corrupt political clique”: White and Jacoby,
White at Large
, 104. Originally published in
Life
, May 1, 1944.

“this rotten regime”: Tuchman,
Stilwell
, 378.

“bulged with reports”: Smith,
OSS
, 269.

“one of the most alert” and “Sub Rosy”: MacDonald,
Undercover Girl
, 108, 210.

“the terrible Army food”: JC, “How I Learned to Love Cooking,”
Parade
(Nov. 13, 1994): 13.

“a knowledge of food and drink”: Peter Farb and George Armelagos,
Consuming Passions: The Anthropology of Eating
(Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 198): 192.

“There will be no more wars”: Theodore H. White,
In Search of History: A Personal Adventure
(London: Cope, 1979): 224.

“melt[ing]” his “frozen earth”: PC,
Bubbles from the Spring
(n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [37]. The published poem differs slightly from the PC letter to CC, Aug. 16, 1945.

“model of ambiguity”: Smith,
OSS
, 280.

“greatest revolution”: White and Jacoby,
Thunder Out of China
, 9.

“We always talked”: JC,
Parade
, 13.

“a sudden vacuum”: MacDonald,
Undercover Girl, 221
.

“marginal part”: Bradley F. Smith,
The Shadow Warriors: OSS and the Origins of the CIA
(London: Deutsch, 1983): 310.

“amassed an incredible amount of information”: Stanley Lovell,
Of Spies & Stratagems
(NY: Pocket Books, 1963): 219.

CHAPTER 8
EASTWARD HO (1945–1946)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, DC 4/30/93 and 2/16/94, Freeman and Katy Gates 4/24/93 and 2/16/95, John L. Moore 5/20/94, John and Josephine McWilliams 8/13/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Samuel Cousins 2/16/95, Rachel Child 2/24/94 and 11/8/96, Erica Prud’homme 9/22/94, Robert P. Hastings 2/9/95, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Gay Bradley Wright 2/5/96, Thibaut de Saint Phalle 12/5/94, Francis Myer Brennan 9/23/94, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Edmond Kennedy 9/27/94, Eleanor (Ollie) Noall 2/25/94. Group interview with Child siblings, Rachel Child, Erica Prud’homme, Jonathan Child 8/17/93.

Correspondence
: Katy Gates to JC, 9/14/82; Nancy Gregg Hatch to NRF, 8/29/96 and 9/3/96; Erica Prud’homme to JC, 5/26/94; PC to Erica Prud’homme, 6/9/86; John L. Moore to NRF, 9/14/94.

Archives
:
Private:
JC & PC love letters (12/45–5/46), business files; James S. Cushing,
The Genealogy of the Cushing Family
(1905, 1979); Ellie Thiry’s diary (on leaving China).
Avon Old Farms School:
Gordon Clark Ramsey, “Aspiration & Perseverance: The History of Avon Old Farms School,” n.d.
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC, 1943, 1946, 11/22/52 and 11/25/68.

Published Sources

“Ivy League clientele”: Michael Lomonaco with Donna Farsman, “21: The Speakeasy That Became a Restaurant That Became a Legend,”
Gourmet
(Nov. 1995): 208.

“Mrs. Hill had never seen”: quoted in NRF, “The Crisco Kid,”
Los Angeles
(July 1996): 84.

“My father was very difficult”: Roberta Wallace Coffey, “Julia and Paul Child: Their Recipe for Love,”
McCall’s
(Nov. 1988): 98.

“had to decline”:
Recollections of John McWilliams: His Youth, Experiences in California, and the Civil War
(Princeton: Princeton Univ. Press, [1919?]): 67.

“tall willowy”: CC,
Roots in the Rock
(Boston: Little, Brown, 1964): 123.

CHAPTER 9
FLAVORS OF MARRIAGE (1946–1948)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, DC 2/2/96, John L. (Jack) Moore 5/20/94, Francis Myer Brennan 10/7/93, Fisher and Debby Howe 9/28/94, Elizabeth (Betty) and George Kubler 9/26/94, Colin Eisler 12/2/95 and 1/12/97, Sally Bicknell [Miall] 3/25/94, Peter and Mari Bicknell 3/21/94, Edmond Kennedy 9/27/94, Mary Case Warner 11/3/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Guy Martin 9/30/94, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Mary Tonetti Dorra 5/6/94. Group interview with Rachel Child, Erica Prud’homme, Jonathan Child 8/17/93.

Correspondence
: Peter and Mari Bicknell to NRF, 3/94; Joan Brewster to NRF, 3/14/95; Elizabeth Bicknell to NRF, 1/20/94.

Archives
:
State of New Jersey:
wedding certificate.
Dept. of State:
PC’s government records.
Private:
PC private diary 1/48.
Schlesinger:
PC to CC, 10/29/48, 10/31/48, 11/24/49, 12/21/68 (no letter-diary exists for this period because both Child families were living in the same city); PC to George and Betty Kubler, 2/9/47, 3/6/47, 9/21/48, and 10/29/48.

Published Sources

“wholly compliant femininity”: Laura Shapiro,
Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century
(NY: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1986): 227.

“toward flavor”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 93.

“charming, civilized”: Anne Mendelson,
Stand Facing the Stove: The Story of the Women Who Gave America The Joy of Cooking
(NY: Henry Holt, 1996): 144.

“the real thing”: James Beard quoted by John L. Hess and Karen Hess,
The Taste of America
(NY: Grossman, 1977): 65.

CHAPTER 10
A PARIS (1948–1949)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, DC 3/9/94, Hélène Baltrusaitis 7/28/93, Madame du Couëdic 7/95, Sylvie (Pouly) and Jacques Delécuse 7/95, Helen Kirkpatrick [Milbank] 9/19/95, Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald Heppner [McIntosh] 11/3/93, John L. Moore 5/24/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Anne Hastings (granddaughter of Madame Ebrard Saint-Ange) 9/30/94, George and Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Francis (Fanny) Myer Brennan 10/7/93 and 9/23/94, Mari and Peter Bicknell 3/21/94, Sally [Bicknell] Miall 3/25/94, Janou Walcutt 2/3/95, Rosemary Manell 5/30/93, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94. Karen Walker interview with Darthea Speyer 1/31/97. Group interview with Rachel Child, Erica Prud’homme, Jonathan Child 8/17/93.

Correspondence
: JC to Jeffrey Meyers, 10/4/84; Richard S. Mowrer to NRF, 2/21/95; Janou Walcutt to NRF, 2/3/95; Mari and Peter Bicknell to NRF, 3/94; Sally [Bicknell] Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Mrs. Alfred (Jean) Friendly to NRF, 7/11/96; JC to Albert Sonnenfeld, 10/12/91.

Archives
:
Private:
JC and PC datebooks, 1948, 1949; Mowrer/Child correspondence (courtesy Richard Scott Mowrer).
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC/FC (the major source for this chapter), 1948, 1949; correspondence JC, George and Betty Kubler, LB, MFKF, CC and FC; MFKF to JC, 9/24/67.
Beinecke:
PC/Myers/Brennan correspondence.
Smith College: Smith Alumni Quarterly
, oral history transcript for
College. A Smith Mosaic
, 10/10/72.

Published Sources

“golden Normandy butter”: JC, F
rom JC’s Kitchen
, 117. All versions of her first meal in France—including the lengthy JC, “That Lunch in Rouen,”
New York Times
(Oct. 10, 1993): 12—differ somewhat from the authoritative version, PC to CC Nov. 30, 1948, written that evening.

“finest group of American civilians”: Theodore White,
In Search of History: A Personal Adventure
(London: Cape, 1979): 284.

“grimier”: Herbert Lottman,
The Left Bank: Writers, Artists, and Politics from the Popular Front to the Cold War
(Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1982): 238.

“the heart of Paris in 1948”: Lionel Abel,
The Intellectual Follies: A Memoir of the Literary Venture in New York and Paris
(NY: Norton, 1984): 162, 169.

“Everyone came to Paris”: Art Buchwald,
I’ll Always Have Paris: A Memoir
(NY: Putnam’s Sons, 1996): 105.

“JC was the only one”: Jack Thomas, “JC: Still Cooking,”
Boston Globe
(March 6, 1997): E4.

“holiday cooking disaster”: Susan Goodman, “Penthouse Potluck,”
Modern Maturity
(Nov./Dec, 1996): 34.

“an adventure in the exercise”: White,
In Search of History
, 204, 274.

“We arrived at the Golden Age”: Art Buchwald, “To Be Young and in Love in Paris,”
New York Times
(Aug. 25, 1996): 25.

“wedding party”: White,
In Search of History
, 264.

“The USIS was kind of a stepchild”: Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, “An Interview with JC” (Nov. 7, 1991): 16.

“to restore”: Peter Farb and George Armelagos,
Consuming Passions: The Anthropology of Eating
(Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1980): 244.

“The artistic integrity of the French”: Edith Wharton,
French Ways and Their Meaning
(NY: D. Appleton, 1919): 235.

“subtlety of thought and manner”: Farb and Armelagos,
Consuming Passions
, 3–4.

“I would have been”: Roberta Wallace Coffey, “Their Recipe for Love,”
McCall’s
116 (Nov. 1988): 98. In her datebook, JC lists among her medicines a contraceptive jelly.

“the national pastime”: NRF,
Literary Cafés of Paris
(Wash. DC: Starrhill, 1989): 16.

“When the two of them”: Jack Hemingway,
Misadventures of a Fly Fisherman: My Life With and Without Papa
(NY: McGraw-Hill, 1986): 247–48. Photograph of wedding party, including JC, page 150.