Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child (81 page)

CHAPTER 17
LET THEM EAT QUICHE (1963–1964)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, David O. Ives 1/29/97, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93 and 12/18/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Charles Williams 2/21/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton 11/17/93, Mari and Peter Bicknell 3/21/94, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96. Group interview with Barbara Ketcham Wheaton and Barbara Haber 12/94. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 7/1/89.

Correspondence
: Marian Morash to JC, 10/5/82; Lizbeth Fisher to NRF, 2/17/95; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Jack Savenor to JC, 10/1/82 (courtesy Peter Kump).

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
correspondence of JC, SB, LB, AD, James Beard, Helen Evans Brown, Elizabeth David, and Ruth Norman; PC letter-diary to CC, 1963–64; mss. of
The French Chef
programs, JC to WGBH 4/26/62 (initial proposal).
WGBH:
tapes of
The French Chef TVFN
(Sue B. Huffman): tapes of James Beard, Dione Lucas, and JC TV shows.
Private:
JC and PC datebooks, 1963, 1964. AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto).
Smith College:
JC oral history transcript, 10/10/72.

Published Sources

“the forces of art and reason”: Lewis Lapham, “Everyone’s in the Kitchen with Julia,”
Saturday Evening Post
(Aug. 8–15, 1964): 20.

“I rushed through that program”: JC,
The French Chef Cookbook
(NY: Knopf, 1975): xii.

“Mrs. Child … thinks”: Lapham,
Saturday Evening Post
, 21.

“The best free lunch”: Alyne E. Model, “JC and Her Runaway Blender,”
Boston
(May 1966): 31–34.

“quiet persistence”: Elizabeth David, “Capability’s Child,”
The Spectator
(Nov. 1, 1963): clipping.

“As long as I can get”: Michael Barrier, “Food for Thought,”
Nation’s Business
(Dec. 1989): 34.

“from professors to policemen”:
TV Guide
(Aug. 22–28, 1964): 9.

“more men than women”: Fred Storm, “Cook’s Night In,”
San Francisco News Call Bulletin
(Feb. 4, 1965): 32.

“possesses none”: Lapham,
Saturday Evening Post
, 21.

“television’s most reliable”: Terrence O’Flaherty, “Miss Bavarian Cream,”
San Francisco Chronicle
(Sept. 30, 1964): 43.

“She’s like a fairy godmother”: Jane Harriman, “This Fairy Godmother Waves a Neat Spatula,”
Boston Sunday Globe
(April 28, 1963): 26A.

“to turn Boston”: “Plain and Fancy,”
Newsweek
(July 25, 1963): 77.

“Child’s predecessors” and “a droll six-footer”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 211, 212.

“began to sag”: JC,
From JC’s Kitchen
(NY: Knopf, 1975): 192.

“She provokes a rating”: “How to Sell Broccoli,
Time
(March 20, 1964): 56.

“many requests”: Jane Benet, “Look at the French Chef,”
San Francisco Chronicle
(Nov. 13, 1963): F7.

CHAPTER 18
PROVENÇAL WINTERS (1965–1967)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, DC, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Emily (Wendy) Beck 3/96, France Thibault 6/8/94, Jean-François Thibault 6/3–4/93, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Ruth Lockwood 12/18/94, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Harriet Healy 5/5/96, Ailene Martin Berrard 6/8/94, Douwe Yntema 4/96, Fisher Howe 9/28/94, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Charles Williams 2/21/95, Michael Hargraves 3/27/96, Joan Reardon 4/28/96, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94.

Correspondence
: Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/28/94 and 5/9/95; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Peter and Mari Bicknell to NRF, 3/21/94; Sally Bicknell Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 11/13/95, Helen Kirkpatrick Milbank to JC, 10/4/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); MFKF to JC, 9/9/82 (courtesy Fisher estate).

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC, 1956–67; correspondence JC, Ruth Norman, Judith Jones, AD, and MFKF; AD notes on her trip to Provence, 1/3/67; Knopf business.
Beinecke:
Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers.
Private:
datebooks of JC and PC, 1965, 1966, 1967; family scrapbooks (courtesy JC and DC); correspondence JC and Michael Field; Peter Kump video of Bramafam and SB, 8/24–25/90 (courtesy Christopher Kump); Michael Field ms. (courtesy Jean-François Thibault).

Published Sources

“I’m tough and I speak”: Quoted in Betty Fussell,
Masters of American Cookery
(NY: Times, 1983): 52.

“educational TV’s answer”: Joan Barthel, “How to Avoid TV Dinners While Watching TV,”
New York Times Magazine
(Aug. 7, 1996): 30.

“hamming it up”: Jane Howard, “Close-Up: JC, the Master Chef: Hamming It Up in the Haute Cuisine,”
Life
(Oct. 21, 1966): 45.

“last year alone” and “our lady of the ladle”: “Everyone’s in the Kitchen” (cover),
Time
(Nov. 25, 1966): 74.

“watershed”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 226.

“French cooking now rose”: Harvey Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table
(NY: Oxford, 1988): 206.

“the nation’s greatest”: Jeremy MacLancy,
Consuming Culture
(London: Chapmans, 1992): 188.

“The same working mother”: Walter Kiechel III, “Two-Income Families Will Reshape the Consumer Markets,”
Fortune
(March 10, 1980): 119, cited in Levenstein, 210.

“the stakes in food writing”: Clark,
Beard
, 225.

“If it weren’t for Paul”: Howard,
Life
, 52.

“WGBH has to turn away”: Alyne E. Model, “JC and Her Runaway Blender,”
Boston
(May 1966): 32. p.
312
“Not since the late Gracie Allen”: Model,
Boston
, 31.

“JC is the Chuck Berry”: Tony Hendra, “The Heart and Soul of Toque ’n’ Roll,”
Vanity Fair
(June 1993): 88.

“119 black-and-white programs”: According to her records, 134 shows were taped. The first 13 were never saved, but 12 of the recipes were redone. One tape was “wiped” (“Bringing in the New Year”) and several were repeated (e.g., “Bûche de Noël”).

“‘JC’ … is actually”: Paul Levy,
Out to Lunch
(NY: Harper & Row, 1986): 205.

“I’m part of the iceberg”: Mary Daniels, “A Supercook and Her Superman,”
Chicago Tribune
(Aug. 20, 1977): 3.

“the tradition of Brillat-Savarin”: Joan Reardon,
MFKF, JC, and Alice Waters: Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table
(NY: Harmony, 1994): xiii.

“Like most other humans”: MFKF, “Foreword,”
The Gastronomical Me
(1943), in
The Art of Eating
(NY: World, 1954): 353.

“penciled Betty Grable brows”: Molly O’Neill, “Wishes and Reminiscences from a Culinary Olympian,”
New York Times
(Feb. 28, 1990): B1, 6.

CHAPTER 19
THE MEDIA ARE THE MESSAGE (1967–1968)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Jean-François Thibault 6/3/93, France Thibault 6/8/94, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, Ailene Martin Berrard 6/8/94, Emily (Wendy) Beck 4/96, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, William Koshland 10/8/93, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Hélène Baltrusaitis 7/28/93.

Correspondence
: Peggy Brown to JC, 10/5/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); Benjamin H. Brown to NRF, 4/10/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC, 1967–68; correspondence of JC, SB, AD, MFKF, William Koshland and Knopf Publishers; ms. for “The White House Red Carpet;” mss. and business for
The French Chef Cookbook. WGBH:
“The White House Red Carpet.”
Boston University:
Conversation with JC and Jacques Pépin,” Boston University, 4/17/96.
Private:
JC and PC datebooks, 1967 and 1968.

Published Sources

“a raid on”: “The JC Way to Play Your Own Ready-Ahead Dinner,”
Ladies’ Home Journal
(Oct. 1967): 88.

“Simca is a great improvisationalist”: Michael James,
Slow Food: Flavors and Memories of American’s Hometowns
(NY: Warner Books, 1992): 41.

“a Roosevelt Democrat”: Christopher Lydon, “Queen Julia,”
The Improper Bostonian
(March 27–April 9, 1996): 14.

“culinary reputation”: JC, typescript for article on the White House for
New York Times
(Dec. 1, 1976): 1.

“Napalm” and “chaotic”: E. J. Kahn, Jr.,
Harvard: Through Change and Through Storm
(NY: Norton, 1969): 78, 375.

CHAPTER 20
CELEBRITY AND SOLITUDE (1968–1970)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, DC, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Lynne Rossetto Kasper 4/27/95.

Correspondence
: JC to John White, 11/30/85; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
correspondence JC, SB, MFKF, James Beard, Narcisse and Samuel Chamberlain, Sybille Bedford, Madeleine Kamman (JC to Dorothy Crandall of the
Boston Globe
, on behalf of Kamman, 9/6/70), Gladys Christopherson; PC letter-diary to CC, 1968–70.
Smith College:
Oral History of JC, 10/10/72.
Private:
uncatalogued carbon copies of correspondence and menus of JC and SB related to
Mastering II;
datebooks of JC and PC, 1968, 1969, 1970.

Published Sources

“The only national television female”: Marya Mannes,
TV Guide
[1968] clipping.

“sour dough”: Hess
(The Taste of America
, 188) appears to equate sour dough with wild-yeast leavened bread. If there is any disagreement between Child and Hess, notes Steven Sullivan of the Acme Bread Company in Berkeley, it is both “semantic and substantive”: no one “invented” acidic bread, but “the American taste for highly acidic breads is revolutionary.”

“gay camp culture”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 234.

“It’s a world of self-generating hysteria”: Nika Hazelton quoted by Nora Ephron’s September 1968 article in
New York
magazine, reprinted in her
Wallflower at the Orgy
(NY: Viking, 1980): 4.

“French’s mustard people”: Ephron,
Wallflower at the Orgy, 5
, 7–8.

“Julia is essentially”: PC quoted by Edith Efron, “Dinner with JC,”
TV Guide
(Dec. 5, 1979): 48.

“nutritional terrorism”: Harvey Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty
(NY: Oxford, 1993): 160.

CHAPTER 21
RIDING THE SECOND WAVE (1970–1974)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Marc Meneau 5/94, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Richard Olney 6/26/95, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Carol and B. J. Cutler 7/94, Sally [Bicknell] Miall 3/25/94, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Judith Jones 10/7/93, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Jan Weimer 1/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Paul Levy 3/22/94, Sylvia and Jacques Delécluse 7/95, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Russell Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93. Madeleine Kamman refused an interview, but the written record of her correspondence with JC is housed at the Schlesinger. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC, 7/1/89.

Correspondence
: Sally Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Susan Jacobson to NRF, 7/9/96; Richard S. Mowrer to NRF, 2/21/95; Grant C. Thompson to NRF, 7/9/96; Sharon Thompson to NRF, 9/24/96; Jan W. Dietrichson to NRF, 5/23/95; Carol Cutler to NRF, 4/13/95; Susan M. Rogers to NRF, 8/14/96; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC, 1970–74; correspondence JC, SB, LB, Anne Willan, Elizabeth David, Waverley Root, WGBH, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Elizabeth David, Hill & Barlow, Craig Claiborne, and Madeleine Kamman.
Private:
correspondence related to BBC-TV, 1970s.
American Heritage Center:
James Beard Correspondence.
Beinecke:
Francis Brennan and Richard Myers Papers, Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers.

Published Sources

“continuation”: JC,
Mastering the Art of French Cooking II
(NY: Knopf, 1970): viii.

“Volume I was mud-pie stuff”: Gael Greene, “Julia’s Moon Walk with French Bread,”
Life
(Oct. 70): 8.

“heralded like the second coming”: Nika Hazelton, “Genghis Khan’s Sauerkraut and Other Edibles,”
New York Times Book Review
(Dec. 6, 1970): 96.

“daunting book”: Raymond A. Sokolov,
Newsweek
(Nov. 9, 1970): 94.

“He loved the skullduggery”: Quoted by Geraldine Baum, “Cooking in the Kitchen with Jim,”
Los Angeles Times Magazine
(Nov. 1, 1996): A25.

“One of the good things”: Calvin Tomkins, “Profiles: Good Cooking,”
New Yorker
(Dec. 23, 1974): 50.

“birthday queen”: PC,
Bubbles from the Spring
(n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [41].

“On the Trail”: Bill Krauss, “On the Trail of JC,”
International Herald Tribune
(March 1971): clipping. See PC to Bill Krauss, March 18, 1971 (Schlesinger): “Now, God damn it, you’ve blown our cover.”

“A Big Child”: Terrence O’Flaherty, “The Perils of Julia,”
San Francisco Chronicle
(Oct. 6, 1972): 44.

“the lady unleashed” and “Julia breathes hard”: Greene,
Life
, 8.

“glid[ing] around her oversized studio kitchen”: Philip Nobile, “JC: An Offbeat Chef,”
Pasadena Star-News
(Nov. 13, 1972): 1.

“Perhaps for the same reason”: Don Stanley, “There was this woman splashing eggs about …” [1970]: clipping.

“our books”:
Money
(Oct. 1972): 58.

“nothing but calories”: JC quoted in “Ratings from the Gourmets” (cover), “The Burger That Conquered the Country,”
Time
(Sept. 17, 1973): 86.

“to find something positive”: Karen Hess and John Hess,
The Taste of America
(NY: Grossman, 1977): 199.

“McDonald’s is good fare”: Frederick J. Stare, MD, “Letter to the Editor,”
Time
(Oct. 8, 1973): 10. Stare was chairman of Harvard’s Department of Nutrition.

“Deprived by this rejection”: Paul Levy,
Out to Lunch
(NY: Harper & Row, 1986): 205.

“in response to criticism”: John Mariani with Alex von Bidder,
The Four Seasons: A History of America’s Premier Restaurant
(NY: Crown, 1994): 120.

“unique blend”: Tomkins,
New Yorker
, 48, 50.