Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child (83 page)

CHAPTER 25
SEASONED WITH LOVE (1985–1989)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, Alice Waters 2/6/96, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94 and 9/5/96, Judith Jones 10/28/96, George Trescher 10/29/96, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Jim Wood 3/10/94, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Patricia Wells 9/4/95, Faith Heller Willinger 6/7/94, Charles Gibson 11/12/96, Kathleen Perry 9/11/96, Roberta Klugman 5/7/94, Dorothy Cann Hamilton 12/14/95, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, Richard Graff 2/9/96, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Robert Huttenback 5/7/94, Karen Berk 9/4/96, Mitzie Cutler 9/4/96, Mary Tonetti Dorra 5/6/94, Nancy Kirby Harris 4/26/96, Anne Willan and Mark Cherniavsky, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Janice Goldklang 9/23/94, Rachel Child 11/1/96, Maggie Mah 2/4/96, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Jane Bollinger 10/28/96, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, David Strada 1/10/97, Betty Rosbottom 1/16/97, Michael McCarty, 3/27/97.

Correspondence
: Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Nancy Verde Barr to NRF, 9/9/96; George Gruenwald to NRF, 2/10/95 and 8/29/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; JC to Barbara Pool Fenzl, 7/28/87 and 9/12/89; Barbara Pool Fenzl to NRF, 9/11/93; Susy Davidson to NRF, 9/10/96; George Gruenwald to Simone Beck, 2/8/89; JC to Peter Kump 2/21/86 and 4/29/86; JC to CC and Janou Walcutt 3/1/86, 7/7/86, and 1/89; JC to Harriet Healy 5/17/87; JC to Eleanor and Basil Summers, 1/86; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives
:
AIWF:
records and correspondence,
Newsletter, Journal of Gastronomy. Schlesinger:
correspondence JC, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Elizabeth David, SB, AD, MFKF, James Beard, Tim Castle, Robert Clark, WGBH, Pritikin-related (Ruth J. Robinson to JC 3/8/88; JC to RJR 3/12/88); ms.
The Way to Cook. Smith College:
interview with
Smith
Alumnae Quarterly
(Summer 1985, Fall 1985).
IACP:
conference program 1983.
Beinecke:
JC to Frances Brennan, 10/11/[80].
Private: JC
datebooks 1985–89.

Published Sources

“Boutez en avant?”:
“Charge ahead,” a favorite expression of JC, dating from the 1970s. According to E. S. Yntema: “It is carved into a cornerstone at the old cavalry armory on Park Avenue in Manhattan.”

“too many experts”: “Experts’ Recipes for a Healthy Life,”
U.S. News & World Report (Jan
. 20, 1986): 67.

“the cooking school”: Jim Wood, “Dining on Sixth with Julia,”
San Francisco Examiner
(Nov. 17, 1985): S6.

“The rates of pay”: Ann Barr and Paul Levy,
The Official Foodie Handbook
(NY: Arbor House, 1984): 107.

“The We Happy Few”: JC (letter to the editor),
AIWF Newsletter
(July 1987): 2.

“need that land” and “sleepy, backwater”: Larry Wilson, “JC’s Crusade,”
Los Angeles Times Magazine
(Aug. 16, 1987): 9, 27.

“a classic women’s library”: “The Scholar’s Joy of Cooking,”
Newsweek
(Oct. 24, 1988): 47C.

“heart attacks”: Dept. of Commerce,
Statistical Abstract of the U.S.
, 1995.

“[America has] a fanatical fear”: Molly O’Neill, “Savoring the World According to Julia,”
New York Times
(Oct. 11, 1989): C6. Reprinted as “What’s Cooking in America?”
International Herald Tribune
(Oct. 12, 1989): clipping.

“There are 120 flavor components”: Florence Fabricant, “Butter Bites Back,”
New York Times
(March 22, 1995): B6.

“the affable French war hero”: Christopher Lydon, “Queen Julia,”
The Improper Bostonian
(March 27–April 9, 1996): 11.

“I would have been”: Roberta Wallace Coffey, “Julia and Paul Child: Their Recipe for Love,”
McCall’s
(Oct. 1988): 3.

“Cooking My Way”: JC, “On Writing a Cookbook: 1988 versus 1960,”
Radcliffe Quarterly
(Dec. 1988): 6.

CHAPTER 26
NOTRE DAME DE LA CUISINE (1989–1993)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Stephanie Hersh 4/27/95 and 12/19/96, Janice Goldklang 9/23/94, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Nancy Verde Barr 12/13/95, Peter Kump 6/27/92, Sara Moulton 9/23/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Richard Graff 2/1/96, Dorothy Cann Hamilton 12/14/95, Mary Risley 4/30/93, Roberta Klugman 5/7/94, Russell and Marian Morash 12/10/94, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Suzanne Patterson 6/24/93, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, Clay Triplette 10/29/96, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Rebecca Alssid 4/15/96, Roger Fessaguet 11/2/96, Richard Olney 6/26/95, John McJennett 11/23/93, Geoffrey Drummond 9/26/94, Faith Heller Willinger 6/7/94, Natale Rusconi 5/31/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Harriet Healy 5/5/94, Marian Burros 12/11/95, Harry Becton, Jr., 1/21/97.

Correspondence
: Sally Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Barbara Pool Fenzl to NRF, 9/11/93; Eline and Bjorn Egge 3/3/95; Mosse and Jens Heyerdahl to NRF, 3/1/95; George Faison to NRF, 11/26/96; JC to Barbara Pool Fenzl, 5/23/90 and 2/14/92; Dudley Martin to JC, 5/92; Dudley Martin to NRF, 9/23/96 and 1/2/97; Peter Kump to JC, 7/9/91, 5/13/92 and 7/29/92; JC to Peter Kump, 6/27/92; Anne Willan to JC, 10/18/89; JC to Harriet Healy, 7/20/90; Martha Willoughby to NRF, 9/19/96, James Londe to NRF, 7/7/96 and 9/20/96.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
correspondence JC, SB, DC, Anne Willan, MFKF, William A. Truslow, President and Mrs. Bill Clinton (12/30/92).
AIWF:
records,
Newsletter, Journal of Gastronomy. Beinecke:
JC to Fanny Brennan, 10/11/[?].
IACP:
conference records.
Boston University:
records, history, articles.
Private:
JC’s negative fan mail file.

Published Sources

“maintains a schedule”: Anne Byrn, “JC Aims to Keep Fun in Food,”
Atlanta Journal & Constitution
(April 12, 1990): W1.

“the nation’s energy queen”: Jim Wood, “JC’s Full Menu,”
San Francisco Examiner
(May 21, 1991): C17.

“Oh, dear. I’ve really done it”: Molly O’Neill, “Savoring the World According to Julia,”
New York Times
(Oct. 11, 1989): C6, reprinted as “What’s Cooking in America?”
International Herald Tribune
(Oct. 12, 1989): clipping.

“a magnificent distillation”: Christopher Lehmann-Haupt (review),
New York Times
(Nov. 27, 1989): III, 16.

“after years of takeout”: Florence Fabricant, “Hefty New Primers for Cooks Lacking Time and Practice,”
New York Times
(Sept. 27, 1989): C6.

“our leading national symbol”: Laura Shapiro, “Eat, Drink and Be Sensible,”
Newsweek
(May 27, 1991): 52.

“It’s part of life”: Michel Roberts, “JC, the Pleasure Shark,”
The Advocate
(May 19, 1992): 65. Moral philosopher Jeremy Iggers (“Innocence Lost,”
Utne Reader
, Nov./Dec. 1993: 54) naively and romantically blames JC for ending Americans’ innocence about food, mistakenly assuming there was a time when “food was simply something we ate.” One has only to read Harvey Levenstein’s
Revolution at the Table
to realize that food guilt has marked U.S. history.

“reopened the American kitchen”: Christopher Lydon, “Queen Julia,”
The Improper Bostonian
(March 27–April 9, 1996): 11.

“eating, drinking, and love-making”: Gail Jennes, “Couples” (cover),
People
(Dec. 1, 1975): 51.

“I want to be healthy”: Shapiro,
Newsweek
, 52.

“scholar-cook”: Paul Levy,
Out of Lunch
(NY: Arbor House, 1984): 203, 206.

“I think snacking”: Lydon,
The Improper Bostonian
, 14.

“Healthy Choice”: Michelle F. Stacey.
Consumed: Why Americans Love, Hate, and Fear Food
(NY: Simon & Schuster, 1994): 58.

“animal-rights people”: Stephen G. Michaelides, “The Joys of Julia” (cover),
Restaurant Hospitality
(Jan. 1991): 95.

“Chimpanzees fed less”: Jim Wood, “Greater Tuna Salad,”
San Francisco Examiner
(Nov. 4, 1990): proof lines 327–29.

“This is chemistry”: Laura Shapiro, “The Skinny on No-Fat Sweets,”
Newsweek
(Nov. 15, 1992): 92.

“Hamburger Helper”: statistics quoted by Meryle Evans, “A Midwest State of Mind,”
Food Arts
(Dec. 1989): 24.

“I wear New Balance”: “Air Julia,”
Sports Illustrated
(Nov. 11, 1991): 68.

“Food should have”: Roberts,
The Advocate
, 65.

“JC, Boiling”: Carol Lawson, “Julia, Boiling, Answers Her Critics,
New York Times
(July 24, 1990): C8.

“Americanized colloquial style”: “Books Received,”
Food & Wine
(Jan. 1992): 1.

“Well, it’s part of life” and “Neptune Society”: William F. Schulz, “Lunch Together,”
The World
(Nov.–Dec. 1992): 34.

“made hash of the protesters”: “Let Her Eat Cake,”
People
(Aug. 10, 1992): 95. In 1981 she had expressed it more strongly: “I am a carnivore of the most enthusiastic persuasion. I feel much better when I have red meat—dripping with blood. I have to keep up my strength.” Curtis Hartman and Steven Raichlen, “JC: The Boston Magazine Interview,”
Boston
(April 1981): 84.

“having [her]
génoise”:
Barbara Hansen, “Child at 80,” L
os Angeles Times
(Oct. 15, 1992): H27.

“Even in France”: Betty Goodwin, “When French Food Is Child’s Play,”
Los Angeles Times
(Feb. 10, 1993): E7.

“This was not a feed”: Merrill Shindler, “Bistro Roulette,”
Los Angeles Reader
(April 9, 1993): 21.

“Thanks, Julia, but”: Kathie Jenkins, “Thanks, Julia, But Where Are the Women?”
Los Angeles Times Book Review
(Jan. 3, 1993): 78.

“Dinner took five hours”: Ruth Reichl, “Julia Triumph,”
Los Angeles Times
(Feb. 11, 1993): clipping.

“Good old Julia”: Madeleine Kamman quoted by Marian Burros, “For JC, an Intimate Dinner for 500 Guests,”
New York Times
(Feb. 10, 1993): C6.

“almost extinct”: Laura Shapiro, “An American Revolution,”
Newsweek
(Dec. 16, 1991): 57.

“the temples of haute cuisine”: Burros,
New York Times
, C6.

“We want to be loved”: Shindler,
Los Angeles Reader
, 21.

“JC ‘rabidly homophobic’”:
Los Angeles Times
(Feb. 9, 1992): A35.

“rabidly homophobic” and “an old friend”: Michael Blowen, “JC Is Under Fire,”
Boston Globe
(Feb. 10, 1992): clipping.

“had nothing to do with”: “Wine Institute Is Accused of Anti-Gay Bias,”
New York Times
(Feb. 11, 1992): A18.

“incredulous”: JC quoted by Roberts,
The Advocate
, 65.

“To be a culinary plagiarist”: Christopher Hitchens, “Martha, Inc.,”
Vanity Fair
(Oct. 1993): 93.

“bonfire of the foodies”: Susan Brenna, “If You Can’t Stand the Heat,”
Newsday
(July 12, 1990): II, 1, 8–9.

CHAPTER 27
DO NOT GO GENTLE (1994–1997)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, Philadelphia Cousins 1/26/97, Stephanie Hersh 11/30/94, Geoffrey Drummond 9/26/94, 12/14/96, and 1/28/97, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Sue Huffman 12/12/95, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Erica Prud’homme 9/22/94, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Alice Waters 2/6/96, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95 and 4/17/96, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 12/12/94, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Craig Kominiak 12/23/95, Nancy Verde Barr 12/13/95, Patricia Wells 8/4/95, R. W. Apple, Jr., 1/30/95, Zanne Early Stewart 11/15/96, Judith Jones 10/28/96, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, Alexandre Lazaroff 2/15/96, Janice Goldklang 9/23/94, Frances and Tom Bissell 10/95, Natale Rusconi 5/31/94, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton 11/17/93, Roberta Klugman 9/9/95, Terry Ford 2/3/96, Andrea B. Werbel 1/29/96, Graham Kerr 4/25/96, Dorie Greenspan 10/30/96, Paula Wolfert 1/25/97.

Correspondence
: Susan M. Rogers to NRF, 8/14/96; Craig Alan Wilson to NRF, 11/13/96; Judith Jones to Geoffrey Drummond, 2/15/95; Carl DeSantis to NRF, 8/23/96; David McWilliams to NRF, 3/18/97.

Archives
:
Lexington town records:
PC death certificate.
Schlesinger: JC
to SB, 2/4/69 and 2/13/69.
AIWF:
records,
Newsletter. Private:
JC datebooks 1993–95, file of condolence letters at PC’s death.

Published Sources

“It’s a shame”: JC quoted by Maryellen C. Costello and Ashok Nimgade, “Lunch with JC,”
MIT Management
(Spring 1991): 23.

“That’s a fun religion”: William F. Schulz, “Lunch Together,”
The World
(Nov.-Dec. 1992): 34.

“Every age gets”: Margaret Talbot, “Les Très Riches Heures de Martha Stewart” (cover),
New Republic
(May 31, 1996): 30.

“I promise I’ll think long”: Kim Willis, “Buffalo a Cold Place for Martha Stewart,”
USA Today
(Dec. 2, 1995): clipping.

“Did you create Martha”: Christopher Lydon, “Queen Julia,”
The Improper Bostonian
(March 27–April 9, 1996): 16.

“the qualities of work” and “Americans have lost”: Talbot,
New Republic
, 33, 35.

“Julia is so hip”: Russ Morash quoted by Lydon,
The Improper Bostonian, 24
.

“Kraft Jet-Puffed”: Glenn Collins, “Make Room in the Kitchen for Yet Another Appliance,”
New York Times
(Sept. 16, 1969): C6.

“Jacques and Julia”: Jack Thomas, “Jacques and Julia Make Sizzling TV,”
Boston Globe
(April 6, 1994): 73, 75.

“a discrepancy”: Jane E. Brody, “Study Finds a Three-Decade Gain in American Eating Habits,”
New York Times
(Sept. 4, 1996): B9.

“Why Aren’t the French”: Jeffrey Steingarten, “Food: Notable News,”
Vogue
(Feb. 1991): 249. Steingarten was perhaps the first to disclose, though not to coin the expression, the French paradox. “It is only a paradox if you believe the nutritionists,” he said in 1996.

“a parade of superstars”: Laura Shapiro, “Mother, Daughter and ‘Joy,’”
Newsweek
(Nov. 11, 1996): 94.

“control of electronic rights”: Paul Nathan, “Rights: When as my Julia goes,”
Publishers Weekly
(June 5, 1995): 18. Also: Mary B. W. Tabor, “Book Notes: JC Book Dropped,”
New York Times
(May 3, 1995).

“killed the book”: Candy Sagon, “How to Sell 4,514 Cookbooks in 17 Minutes,”
Washington Post
(March 5, 1997): E1.

“If we lost a bread”: Bill Daley, “The
King
of Cooking Shows,”
Hartford Courant
(Aug. 1996): G2.

“I think every woman”: Quoted by Craig Wilson, “JC’s ‘Baking Brigade,’”
USA Today
(Oct. 15, 1996): 2D.

“an innate ease”: Fred Ferretti, “Julia: America’s Favorite Cook,”
Gourmet
(Feb. 1995): 70.

“a familiar object”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 251.

“If her public demeanor”: Nicola Smith, Vermont/New Hampshire
Valley News
(July 31, 1996): C1.

“get away with more”: Bill Moyers, “M. F. K. Fisher: Essayist,”
Bill Moyers: A World of Ideas II
(NY: Doubleday, 1990): 93.

“fourth fastest-growing” and “1.5 million”: Maria L. LaGanga, “At a Career Crossroads? Try the Kitchen,”
Los Angeles Times
(March 2, 1997): Al, A24.

“over 98 percent” and “Food is the live entertainment”: Regina Schrambling, “TV or Not TV?”
Food Arts
(October 1966): 90, 92.

“Queen Julia”: Lydon,
The Improper Bostonian
, 12.

“pre-war feminist”: Camille Paglia quoted by Lydon,
The Improper Bostonian
, 12.