Authors: Hari Nayak
3 tablespoons oil
2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
2 fresh green chili peppers split open lengthwise
10 fresh or dried curry leaves
Dash of asafetida (optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
1 Combine the potatoes with plenty of cold water to cover, in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered, until very tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. (In the meantime, if using frozen peas, remove them from the freezer to allow them to defrost.) Drain the potatoes well and set aside to cool. Peel the potatoes and coarsely chop.
2 Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds pop and splatter, add the green chili peppers, curry leaves and asafetida, if using. Fry for about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add the green peas, cooked potatoes, turmeric, salt and fresh coriander leaves and cook, stirring frequently, until the potatoes are heated through and the peas are cooked, about 3 to 5 minutes. Check the seasoning and sprinkle on more salt if needed.
For Indians living in coastal areas or inland near fresh water lakes, ponds and streams, fish and seafood are an important part of the daily diet—only those following a strict vegetarian diet are likely to abstain from this excellent source of protein. And, since geographically one-half of India is a peninsula, surrounded by the Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal and Arabian Sea, and most of the country is well traversed by rivers and streams and dotted with small lakes, this is a significant part of the population. In these areas, an ample supply of fresh fish or seafood is available year-round and meals and accompanying dishes are planned around the fish or seafood dish. I grew up in Udupi, a small town on the western coast of India. We were never far from local fish markets or fresh seafood. I walked to the market often, looking at baskets of fresh seafood, as well as dried and salted fish. (The dried and salted fish are delicacies in these regions and is used in making fish chutneys and pickles.) My family’s favorite fish dish, which was a staple at our home, was Mangalore Fish Curry (page 105).
The most common method of cooking and serving fish and seafood in Indian homes is as a curry and so it is usually accompanied by rice. Other popular techniques are pan-frying and deep-frying. When fish or seafood is pan-fried, it is coated with spices, when deep-fried, it is coated with a batter or a crust. Baking and grilling is not done very often in homes in India. In restaurants, in addition to the traditional home-style cooking methods, fish may be baked in a tandoor oven to create tandoori-style fish dishes or grilled. In this chapter, you can learn how to make several traditional fish and seafood dishes like Mangalore Fish Curry (page 105), Stir-Fried Shrimp (page 103) and Malabar Crab Curry (page 98) along with some nontraditional Indian-inspired dishes like Spicy Scallops with Grilled Pineapple Chutney (page 101) and Masala-Crusted Tilapia (page 97).
The most popular fish and seafood in India are Indian mackerel, pomfret (pompano), hilsa (similar to shad fish), rohu (most popular fish in northeastern India), black sea bream, sardines, shrimps, mussels and squid. Although these varieties are different from what is available in waters in other parts of the world, most fish in American and European fish markets are comparable to Indian varieties, and most take well to Indian flavors. Most Indian recipes can be made with varieties that are easy to find in the West, such as sea bass, halibut, salmon, snapper, haddock, cod or even swordfish.
Fish Tikka Macchli ke Tikke
The sweet and tart cucumber-onion relish perfectly complements the delicate flavors of this tikka, which basically means “chunk” and is applied to many Indian dishes featuring bite-size pieces of food. I love to use swordfish for tikka—being thick and firm, it’s a good option for skewering and takes well to Indian spices and seasonings. To keep things simple I use a readymade tandoori seasoning. Alternatively, Dhaba Spice (page 34) or Home-Style Garam Masala (page 35) may be used to flavor the fish. Serve this over salad greens for a flavorful light meal.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
1 red onion (about 1/3 lb/150 g), thinly sliced
2 teaspoons salt
3 lemons
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon minced fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
4 swordfish or mahi mahi steaks (about 11/2 lbs/750 g total), cut into chunks Four 12-inch (30-cm) bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
1 tablespoon store-bought tandoori seasoning, Dhaba Spice (page 34) or Home-Style Garam Masala (page 35)
3 small cucumbers (about 11/2 lbs/750 g total), thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 to 2 tablespoons oil
1 Put the sliced onion in a mixing bowl and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Leave for 20 minutes. Rinse the onion slices under cold water. Squeeze dry and return to the bowl with the juice of 1 of the lemons, the sugar and fresh coriander leaves. Toss to combine. Set aside.
2 Slice the remaining 2 lemons into thick slices. Thread the swordfish chunks and lemon slices onto the skewers. Season with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, tandoori seasoning, Dhaba Spice or Home-Style Garam Masala and set aside.
3 Add the cucumber to the bowl with the pickled onion and toss until well mixed.
4 Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle the oil to evenly coat the pan. Place the skewers in the hot oil and cook for 2 minutes on each side. Serve with the onion-cucumber relish.
Salmon Kebabs
Skewered minced fish on a stick is not very common in Indian cooking. This is my twist on minced meat kebabs that are popular in India. This dish makes a very elegant presentation and is a good choice for a cocktail party. Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) adds a delicate citrusy fragrance to this delicious salmon dish. I love to serve this with Spicy Apricot Chutney (page 42) or Cucumber and Yogurt Raita (page 45).
Serves 4
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
1 1/4 lbs (600 g) salmon fillets, skinned
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 tablespoons Indian Grilling and Roasting Rub (page 33)
1 to 2 tablespoons dried bread crumbs
8 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
2 tablespoons oil
Chutney of your choice, for serving
1 Chop the salmon meat by using a knife or a food processor, being careful not to pulverize the meat. Mix together the salmon meat, fresh coriander leaves, and Indian Grilling and Roasting Rub and 1 tablespoon of the bread crumbs in a bowl. Take about 1/4 cup (75 g) of the mixture and, with moistened hands, form a little patty directly onto a skewer, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm) open on either end. Firmly press the salmon mixture onto a skewer. This is your test skewer. If the test patty adhered to the skewer, follow Step 2, but divide the dough into 7 equal portions instead of 8. If the patty does not adhere to the skewer, remove the patty from the skewer and return it to the bowl with the rest of salmon mixture. Sprinkle on additional tablespoon of bread crumbs and thoroughly mix in.
2 Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions (or 7 portions, if the test patty worked). Using your hands, with your palms slightly wet, form a little patty directly onto a skewer. (Make sure the patties are firmly attached to the skewers before putting them onto the preheated and oiled pan.)
3 Preheat a large, shallow skillet over medium heat. Add the oil. When hot, place the skewers in the skillet.
4 Cook the skewers until the salmon is just cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the skewers from the pan and serve immediately with the chutney of your choice.
Masala-Baked Red Snapper Masaladar Oven ki Macchi
This recipe is inspired by a memorable trip I took to Cochin, a port city in Kerala, a state in southern India. Cochin’s unique “You buy, I cook” beach-side food stalls offer good, fresh seafood and beautiful views of the ocean. First you choose your own “catch of the day” from one of the fishmongers opposite the fishing nets and then one of the nearby “fast food” shacks will cook it for you. On one occasion, I picked out a whole red snapper, which was grilled wrapped in banana leaves with some local ingredients and spices. It is a great way of cooking a whole fish—keeping the head on the fish makes for a great presentation. I like to serve this fish dish with Lemon Rice with Peanuts (page 129) or Tamarind Rice (page 131) and Spicy Coconut Green Beans (page 82). The pink color of the snapper contrasts nicely with the green beans. If you cannot find fresh snapper you can substitute another whole firm-fleshed fresh fish, such as trout or pickerel. This recipe will feed four when served with rice and one or more vegetable dishes.
Serves 2 to 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
1 whole red snapper (about 2 lbs/1 kg), cleaned and scaled
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly-squeezed lime juice
1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
2 tablespoons oil, plus extra to coat the baking dish
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup (300 g) Green Chili Masala (page 35)
Aluminum foil
1 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2 Score the skin of the fish in a diamond pattern. Combine the lime juice, lime zest, 1 tablespoon of the oil and the salt in a shallow pan. Rub the fish all over with the lime juice mixture.
3 Rub the Green Chili Masala mixture into the slits in the fish skin and into the fish’s cavity. Lay the fish on a large sheet of foil. Pour on the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and spread it over the top of the fish.
4 Lightly coat a shallow baking dish with oil to prevent the foil from sticking. Wrap the aluminum foil fairly tightly around the fish, making sure that the package is well sealed. Place it in the prepared baking dish.
5 Bake for about 30 minutes, but start checking after 20 minutes. The exact time will depend on the size and thickness of the fish. To test, peel back a little of the foil and press on the flesh at the thickest part of the fish. It should yield a little and feel soft. The other test is to unwrap more of the fish and test the texture of the flesh: if it flakes with a fork, it is cooked.
6 To serve, lift sections of the top fillet off the bone and place on a platter. Pour the excess pan juices on top of the fish. When the first side is finished, flip the fish over to serve the second fillet.
Masala-Crusted Tilapia
Bhuni Masala Macchli
Tilapia, an otherwise dull fish, is easily perked up with a rub of Indian spices. Though not traditionally used in Indian cooking, here I have used garlic powder to create a blackened crust on the fish. Fresh garlic will not give the desired texture. Serve this fish with any of the rice dishes or, my favorite way, with a simple salad like Mung Dal and Cucumber Salad (page 62) or just mixed greens.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
4 tilapia, or other firm white fish, fillets (about 11/4 to 11/2 lbs/600 to 750 g total)
2 tablespoons oil
Juice of 2 limes
Indian Blackened Seasoning
1 tablespoon Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
2 teaspoons Home-Style Garam Masala (page 35)
1 teaspoon salt
1 Combine the ingredients for the Indian Blackened Seasoning on a plate. Dredge the fillets in the spice mixture to coat.
2 Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the fish until just opaque in the center, 2 to 3 minutes per side, gently turning it when half-done. Squeeze the lime juice on the fish and serve immediately.
NOTE: While cooking this fish or any other pan-fried fish dishes, lift the pieces carefully with a spatula and do not turn them more than twice.
Malabar Crab Curry
Malabari Kekda Kari
My grandmother (ajji) used to make this flavorful spicy curry from the west coast of India on special occasions. We used to dunk hot dosa into this steaming hot curry, but today, to simplify my time in the kitchen, I serve this curry with Plain Basmati Rice (page 124). In this recipe, the tomatoes are a welcome addition to this rich coconut-based curry. This curry is made with whole crabs, cut up. If using fresh crabs, be on the look-out for live crabs and have your fish monger clean them before you bring them home. Frozen crabs make a decent substitute, but the flavor of the curry is nowhere near to when using fresh crabs.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 20 to 25 minutes
8 live medium-size crabs, such as blue or snow or 2 lbs (1kg) frozen whole crab, crab claws or king crab legs (not previously cooked)
1 cup (100 g) shredded, unsweetened coconut (fresh, frozen or reconstituted dried, page 24)
2 fresh green chili peppers
1/3 cup (80 ml) plus 2 cups (500 ml) water
3/4 cup (185 ml) oil
1½ teaspoons black mustard seeds
2 dried red chili peppers
10 fresh or dried curry leaves
1 onion (about 1/3 lb/150 g), chopped
4 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 32)
1/2 teaspoon Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 teaspoons salt, plus more if needed
1 large tomato (about 1/2 lb/250 g), chopped
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), for garnish
1 To clean a whole crab, hold the crab in one hand and lift up the shell where it forms a point to remove the top shell. Clean the crab making sure the spongy, inedible gills from either side of the body are removed. Cut off the “face” of the crab where it joins the lower shell and remove the internal organs by scraping them out with a knife. Clean and wash the crabs thoroughly.
2 To cut a whole crab, using a strong knife, remove the legs from the body of the crab and set aside. Cut the body into 2 to 3-inch (5 to 7.5-cm) pieces. Or, you can leave the body whole if you prefer.