Authors: Hari Nayak
3 Place the coconut, green chili peppers and1/3 cup (80 ml) of the water in a food processor or blender and process to make a very smooth paste.
4 Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and sauté until they begin to pop. Add the dried red chili peppers and curry leaves and stir for 5 seconds. Quickly add the onion and sauté until a light golden color. Add the Ginger-Garlic Paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid has evaporated, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper, turmeric and salt and cook for 30 seconds to allow the flavors to intensify.
5 Add the chopped tomato and crab and cook until the oil leaves the masala. Add the coconut paste and the remaining 2 cups (500 ml) of water; bring to a boil stirring occasionally. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Check for seasoning and add more salt if needed. Garnish with the fresh coriander leaves and serve hot.
Tandoori Skewered Shrimp
Jhinga Kebab
This is a perfect summer meal for a grill, but can be cooked on a grill pan on the stovetop too for an equally delicious result. This dish can be served as a salad or appetizer, but I like it best as a light meal served with Avocado and Roasted Cumin Raita (page 44). To make things simple, this recipe calls for store-bought tandoori seasoning. If you cannot get your hands on a tandoori seasoning spice, replace it with store-bought or Home-Style Garam Masala (page 35). When my mother prepared this dish—which was one of my father’s favorites—she would serve it without the salad greens and fruits. I like the mix of flavor the greens and fruit provide, and the greens make me feel light and healthy—which is something you want on a hot summer evening!
Serves 2 to 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
16 fresh jumbo shrimp, peeled but with tail on
4 wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
1 tablespoon store-bought tandoori seasoning
Salt, to taste
Oil, for oiling grill racks or broiler pan
2 cups (50 g) loosely packed red or green leaf lettuce
1 cup (150 g) seedless, diced watermelon
2 oranges, peeled and cut into segments
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
Juice of 2 limes
1 Preheat the grill to high heat. If broiling the shrimp, preheat the broiler to high heat and set the oven rack 4 inches (10 cm) below the heat source.
2 Thread 4 shrimp onto each skewer. Sprinkle with the tandoori seasoning and salt.
3 To grill the shrimp: Oil the hot grill grate and place the shrimp skewers over high heat for about 2 minutes on each side.
4 To broil the shrimp: Place the shrimp on an oiled broiler pan and broil for about 2 minutes on each side.
5 Arrange the lettuce on a serving platter. Top with the orange slices and watermelon cubes and tandoori shrimp skewers. Sprinkle evenly with the fresh coriander leaves and lime juice and serve.
NOTE Live crabs should be refrigerated and used the same day they were purchased.
Stir-Fried Telicherry Mussels
Kallumakai Varuthathu
If being a chef is my passion, then traveling is my soul! India has a variety of geographic as well as culinary contours. Every region, even small towns, has flavors and recipes specific to its culture and local ingredients. During a recent trip to Telicherry, a south Indian town in the state of Kerala, I tasted this delicate stir-fry on the go, and this is my earnest attempt to recreate its flavors. Telicherry, apart from its artistic and talented circus artists, is also famous for its peppercorns—this dish uses a generous amount. Kallumakai, or kadukka, means “mussels” and varuthathu means “fried” in Malayalam, a language spoken in this region, which is a good description of this simple but delicious recipe. Traditionally this dish is flavored with the juice of kokum, a prunelike black fruit indigenous to India, which imparts a sour flavor. I have used lime juice and tomatoes to recreate the sourness in this dish. This recipe serves four as an appetizer and two as a main dish when served with Plain Basmati Rice (page 124). Use Telicherry peppercorns if you can for an extra-authentic flavor.
Serves 2 to 4
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
2 lbs (1 kg) fresh mussels
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
4 tablespoons oil
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
3 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 large red onion (about 1/2 lb/250 g), chopped
2 tomatoes (about 3/4 lb/350 g), chopped
Juice of 1 lime
5 tablespoons black peppercorns, pounded
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
1 Soak the mussels in cold water for about 10 minutes to release sand and grit. Using a slotted spoon, remove the mussels from the water. Discard any with cracked or broken shells or any that, if partially open, do not fully close when tapped sharply with a knife. To debeard the mussels, look for threadlike vegetal matter—known as the “beard”— where the two shells meet. Use your fingers to remove the beard, pulling toward the hinge-end of the mussel. Thoroughly clean the mussels by scrubbing the shells under cold running water—this is best done with a wire scourer.
2 Put the mussels in a large saucepan with 1/2 teaspoon of the turmeric and a little salt. Add enough cold water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mussels have steamed opened. Discard any that do not open. Quickly drain the mussels by lifting the mussels out of their cooking water with a slotted spoon.
3 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin, garlic, and onion and fry until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric, salt and the tomatoes. Cook over low heat, stirring often, for 3 minutes.
4 Add the mussels to the onion mixture and cook, stirring gently, for 2 minutes. Add the lime juice, black pepper and chopped fresh coriander leaves. Stir briefly to combine and remove from the heat and serve immediately.
Spicy Scallops with Grilled Pineapple Chutney
What I love about this dish is the balance between the flavors of the chutney combined with the spices and the textures of the scallops. The addition of the sweet and sour Grilled Pineapple Chutney over the scallops gives the dish a burst of freshness! Scoring the scallops makes for an attractive presentation and allows the flavors to penetrate the scallops. I have used the Indian Grilling and Roasting Rub (page 33) for seasoning for an equally delicious result.
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
16 large sea scallops (about 11/4 lbs/600 g), gently rinsed and blotted dry with paper towels
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon toasted and ground cumin seeds
1 tablespoon Home-Style Garam Masala (page 35)
1 teaspoon salt
Oil, for oiling grill racks or broiler pan
Grilled Pineapple Chutney
1 small pineapple (about 1½ lbs/750 g), peeled and cut crosswise into 1-in (2.5-cm)-thick rounds
1 small red onion (about 1/4 lb/125 g), diced
1 small red bell pepper, diced (3/4 cup/130 g)
1 fresh green chili pepper, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
Juice of 1 lime
Salt, to taste
1 To make the Grilled Pineapple Chutney: Preheat the grill to medium-high. If broiling the pineapple, preheat the broiler to high heat and set the oven rack 4 inches (10 cm) below the heat source. To grill, oil the grill plate. Place the pineapple slices on the hot grill and grill for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. To broil, place the pineapple slices on a broiling pan and broil for 4 to 5 minutes on each side.
2 Cube the cooked pineapple rounds, removing the inner core. In a large mixing bowl, mix together the cubed pineapple with the red onion, red bell pepper, green chili pepper, and fresh mint and coriander leaves. Add the lime juice and salt and toss until well coated. Set aside at room temperature.
3 To prepare the scallops: If grilling the scallops, preheat the grill to high heat; if broiling, preheat the broiler to high heat and set the oven rack 4 inches (10 cm) below the heat source.
4 Drizzle a generous amount of olive oil over the scallops—enough to evenly coat them. Combine the Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper, toasted and ground cumin seeds, Home-Style Garam Masala and salt in a bowl. Add the scallop and gently toss them in the spice mixture until they are evenly coated.
5 To grill the scallops: Oil the hot grill grates and grill the scallops over high heat for about 2 minutes on each side.
6 To broil the scallops: Place the scallops on an oiled broiling pan and broil them for 4 to 5 minutes.
7 Serve immediately over the Grilled Pineapple Chutney.
Goan-Style Squid Goa ki Squid Kari
If there ever was a place in India that no Indian would refuse to go, year after year, decade after decade, just to unwind, relax, party or rejuvenate, it has to be Goa! And the spirit of Goa has traveled far and wide. At any given time, at least 50 percent of the population in this Western coastal area is tourists, and many, if not the majority, are foreigners who’ve come from around the world to bask in the sounds, sights, and lifestyle Goa has to offer. The best beaches of the country, the greatest seafood, the most affordable holiday lodging, and the cheapest alcohol in the country. So, combined with the simple and good-hearted nature of the locals, it’s not surprising that Goa is so popular! My ideal day in Goa would be to slide into a hammock in a beach shack, spend the late afternoon to early evening listening to the sound of the sea and watching the fisherwomen sort the fresh catch of the day, followed by the sights and sounds of chefs preparing my choice of seafood curry and right there on the beach as the sun goes down—painting the horizon like a canvas—and gulping gallons of chilled beer! In Goa, squid is a very popular catch, where it is often cooked as a curry or stir-fried. The fishermen often cook the freshly-caught squid with hot chili peppers, lime and spices, a favorite treat among the locals and tourists. This dish is inspired by a Goan squid dish I’ve eaten at the source and, though not a traditional Indian ingredient, I’ve added a touch of soy sauce to provide some zing to the curry. The technique of adding soy sauce is often used by street vendors in India who cook up these mouthwatering treats. Try this with Plain Basmati Rice (page 124), Indian Fried Rice (page 130) or Whole-Wheat Griddle Breads (page 136).
Serves 6
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 teaspoons Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 lbs (1 kg) fresh or frozen squid, cleaned, bodies cut into rings (see note)
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon chopped green onions (scallions)
2 tablespoons oil
2 onions (about 3/4 lb/350 g), thinly sliced
10 fresh or dried curry leaves
4 large garlic cloves, crushed with the side of a large knife
2 tablespoons peeled and minced fresh ginger
1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut milk, warmed
3 tablespoons lime juice
Salt, to taste
1 recipe Basmati Rice with Whole Spices (page 132), for serving
1 Dry roast the cumin, coriander and fennel in a small skillet over low heat, until aromatic, about 1 minute. Grind the roasted spices to a fine powder using an electric coffee or spice grinder. Add the Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper and turmeric and pulse the grinder to combine the spices.
2 Toss the squid with the spice mixture, soy sauce and green onions in a large bowl.
3 Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until lightly browned. Add the curry leaves, garlic, ginger and the squid. Sauté, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Add the warm coconut milk and bring to a boil. Stir in the lime juice and salt. Serve with Basmati Rice with Whole Spices.
NOTE For this recipe, I prefer that just the body, cut into rings, be used. However, if you don’t have another use for the tentacles, rather than waste them, they can be used as well. If using the tentacles, leave them whole.
Chili Shrimp with Curry Leaves and Coconut
Jhinga Nariyal
Mumbai is the heartbeat of India—the same way Manhattan is for a lot of Americans. It is the city of myriad industries and myriad careers, of the stock exchange, the glitterati, and Bollywood, making it also the tinsel town of India. Like most big cities in India, often the best food is found in quite humble establishments. Street food, lesser known to foreigners, but well known to locals, has its own thrill and flavor. Watching street food vendors at work is like seeing, and hearing, a firework display of sorts—the flaming wok burners, row after row, the tossing of paratha, the smell of ghee or Chinese spices and a local pungent chili sauce, the sounds of the plates, cutlery and glasses being turned around in the quickest way possible! This dish is inspired by the food served at these roadside eateries in Mumbai—many open late into the night. Full of fresh flavors, it is inspired by the very popular Indo-Chinese dishes that are based on oriental cooking yet uses local ingredients and spices. And it features one of my favorite flavor combinations—coconut, red chili peppers and curry leaves. Up the chili peppers, if you like heat. Have all the ingredients ready before you heat the wok or the saucepan because this is a quick stir-fry best done over high heat. Beware—the smoke alarm might just go off!! Serve this over Indian Fried Rice (page 130) or Whole-Wheat Griddle Breads (page 136).
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon peeled and chopped fresh ginger
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 small red onion (about 1/4 lb/125 g), minced