Read Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well Online

Authors: Pellegrino Artusi,Murtha Baca,Luigi Ballerini

Tags: #CKB041000

Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well (113 page)

Stewed Cardoons (Cardoni in umido),
298

Stewed Coot (Folaghe in umido),
213

Stewed Dogfish (Palombo in umido),
364

Stewed Eel (Anguilla in umido),
350

Stewed Eel Comacchio Style (Anguilla in umido all’uso di Comacchio),
350

Stewed Eggplant (Petonciani in umido),
296

Stewed Fish (Pesce a taglio in umido),
330

Stewed Fresh Fava Beans (Fave fresche in stufa),
311

Stewed Frogs (Ranocchi in umido),
355

Stewed Mushrooms (Funghi in umido),
294

Stewed Pearl Onions (Cipolline in istufa),
301

Stewed Pike (Luccio in umido),
363

Stewed Pullet Served with Rice (Pollastra in umido col contorno di riso),
206

Stewed Squabs (Piccioni in umido),
214

Stewed Squill (Cicale in umido),
346

Stewed Starlings (Storni in istufa),
220

Stewed Stockfish (Stocafisso in umido),
361

Stewed Tongue (Lingua in umido),
253

Strawberry Ice (Gelato di fragole),
546

Strichetti Noodles Bolognese Style (Strichetti alia bolognese),
68

Strudel,
388

Stuffed Artichokes (Carciofi ripieni),
305

Stuffed Bread Morsels (Bocconi di pane ripieni),
179

Stuffed Breast of Milk-Fed Veal (Petto di vitella di latte ripieno),
246

Stuffed Cabbage (Cavolo ripieno),
315

Stuffed Cutlets (Cotolette imbottite),
177

Stuffed Dumplings (Tortelli),
72

Stuffed Eggs I (Uova ripiene I),
131

Stuffed Eggs II (Uova ripiene II),
131

Stuffed Fritters (Fritto di pasta ripiena),
144

Stuffed Loin of Mutton (Lombata di castrato ripiena),
228

Stuffed Peaches (Pesche ripiene),
504

Stuffed Pork Loin (Lombo di maiale ripieno),
248

Stuffed Potato Nuggets (Pallottole di patate ripiene),
168

Stuffed Rolls (Pagnottelle ripiene),
190

Stuffed Sardines (Sarde ripiene),
343

Stuffed Scallop Shells (Conchiglie ripiene),
340

Stuffed Squill (Cicale ripiene),
345

Stuffed Tomatoes (Pomodori ripieni),
311

Stuffed Tongue Cutlets in Aspic (Scaloppe di lingua farsite in bella vista),
270

Stuffed Veal Cutlets (Bracioline ripiene),
234

Stuffing for Chicken (Ripieno pei polli),
141

Sturgeon (Storione),
341

Sturgeon
Fricandeau
(Storione in fricandd),
342

Sultan Cake (Biscotto alia Sultana),
400

Surprise Pie (Pasticcio a sorpresa),
516

Sweet English “Salami” (Salame inglese),
434

Sweet Tomato Preserves (Conserva dolce di pomodoro),
530

Sweet Wafers (Cialdoni),
438

Sweet-and-Sour Pearl Onions (Cipolline agro-dolci),
300

Sweet-and-Sour Salt Cod (Baccala dolce-forte),
358

Sweet-and-Sour Tongue (Lingua dolce-forte),
223

Sweet-and-Sour Wild Boar (Cinghiale dolce-forte),
221

Sweetbread Croquettes (Crocchette d’animelle),
167

Sweetbreads with Wine Sauce (Animelle alia bottiglia),
249

Swiss Cake (Torta svizzera),
407

T

Tagliatelle Romagna Style (Tagliatelle all’uso di Romagna),
82

Tagliatelle with Prosciutto (Tagliatelle col prosciutto),
81

Tangy Sauce I (Salsa piccante I),
121

Tangy Sauce II (Salsa piccante II),
122

Tart Raspberry Syrup (Acetosa di lampone),
522

Tartar Custard (Zuppa tartara),
489

Tarts (Crostate),
433

Tea (The),
562

Tea Cookies (Pastine pel the),
449

Tea Spumone (Spumone di the),
555

Tench in Zimino Sauce (Tinche in zimino),
363

The Meat Sauce the French Call Spanish Sauce (Sugo di carne che i Francesi chiamano salsa spagnuola),
34

The Queen of Soups (Zuppa regina),
59

Thick Quince Preserves (Conserva soda di cotogne),
534

Thin Semolina Noodles (Taglierini di semolino),
45

Thousand Foot Soldiers Soup (Minestra di mille fanti),
52

Thrushes with Olives (Tordi colle olive),
218

Toasted Almond Pudding (Budino di mandorle tostate),
482

Toasted Almonds (Mandorle tostate),
569

Tomato Pie (Tortino di pomodori),
196

Tomato Sauce (Sugo di pomodoro),
35

Tomato Sauce (Salsa di pomodoro),
120

Tondone Fritters (Frittelle di tondone),
154

Tongue of Milk-Fed Veal in Tangy Sauce (Lingua di vitella di latte in salsa piccante),
269

Tortellini Bolognese Style (Tortellini alia bolognese),
40

Tortellini Italian Style (Tortellini all’italiana),
39

Tortellini Stuffed with Squab (Tortellini di came di piccione),
43

Tricolor Fried Bread (Crostini di tre colori),
197

Tripe Corsican Style (Trippa alia corsa),
250

Tripe in Sauce (Trippa col sugo),
250

Tripe Meatballs (Polpette di trippa),
251

Truffle Canapés (Crostini di tartufi),
111

Truffle Sauce (Salsa tartufata),
126

Truffled Beef Loin (Sfilettato tartufato),
367

Truffled Potatoes (Patate tartufate),
317

Truffles Bolognese Style, Raw, etc. (Tartufi alia bolognese, crudi, ecc),
299

Tube Pastries and Pastry Puffs (Bombe e pasta siringa),
156

Tuna Sauce (Salsa tonnata),
124

Turin Cake (Dolce Torino),
465

Turkey (Tacchino),
382

Turnip Greens Florentine Style (Broccoli o talli di rape alia fiorentina),
313

Tutti Frutti Ice (Gelato di tutti i frutti),
551

Twice-Cooked Meat (Lesso rifatto),
265

Twice-Cooked Meat English Style (Lesso rifatto all’inglese),
266

Twice-Cooked Meat Italian Style (Lesso rifatto all’italiana),
266

Two-Color Soup (Minestra di due colori),
54

U

Unleavened Cake (Biscotto),
420

Unleavened Cake Served with Zabaione (Biscotto da servirsi con lo zabaione),
494

Unleavened Chocolate Cake (Biscotto di cioccolata),
421

V

Various Canapés (Crostini diversi),
113

Veal Chops in Paper (Cotolette nella carta),
189

Veal Cutlets Bolognese Style (Scalop- pine alia bolognese),
264

Veal Cutlets Livorno Style (Scaloppine alia livornese),
232

Veal Cutlets Roman Style (Saltimbocca all romana),
178

Veal Genoese Style (Carne alia genovese),
255

Veal in Tuna Sauce (Vitello tonnato),
271

Veal Stew (Stracotto di vitella;,
200

Venison Cutlets Hunter’s Style (Costolette di daino alia cacciatora),
223

W

Walnut Cake (Torta di noci),
453

Walnut Liqueur (Nocino),
541

Whimsical Stew (Stracotto alia bizzarra),
202

White Sauce (Salsa bianca),
120

Woodcock Canapes (Crostini di beccaccia),
112

Y

Yellow Cornmeal Dumplings (Gnocchi di farina gialla),
98

Yellow Cornmeal Polenta with Sausages (Polenta di farina gialla colle salsicce),
185

Yellow Cornmeal Porridge (Farinata gialla di magro),
74

Yellow Sauce for Poached Fish (Salsa gialla per pesce lesso),
122

Z

Zabaione,
521

Zucchini Pie (Tortino di zucchini),
319

Zucchini with Meat Filling (Zucchini ripieni, di grasso),
286

Zucchini with Oregano (Zucchini col
regamo
),
285

1
One of Ugo Foscolo’s most famous poems is entitled “Dei Sepolcri” (“On Sepulchers”). Many illustrious Italian artists and men of letters are either buried or honored by a monument in the church of Santa Croce in Florence (unless otherwise specified the notes to the text are the editors’).

2
Owner of a famous restaurant in Florence at the time.

3
The paragraphs that follow were added by the author under this heading in the second edition of the work.

4
This was the name of Artus’s cat.

5
Later editions of Artusi’s book included, in a kind of appendix to the introductory chapters, the following letters from enthusiastic readers and the stories associated with them.

6
Giovanni Vialardi, head chef of Charles Albert and Victor Emmanuel II (House of Savoy, royal family of Italy from 1861-1946), wrote a
Treatise on Cuisine
, published in 1854. Like the imaginary quote that follows, it was full of Gallicisms typical of the Piedmontese dialect.

7
This is a lie (Artusi’s note).

8
The “meat sauce” described here is not what we have come to understand by that name, i.e., the “ragú” or “bolognese” sauce often served with pasta. It is, in fact, more like a “dark broth,” and is used as a base or flavoring for many other dishes. Artusi makes frequent mention of it in the recipes that follow,

9
As Artusi points out, there is an important difference between “sugo di pomodoro” (which is described here) and “salsa di pomodoro” (which will be described in recipe 125). Unfortunately, English does not allow for this distinction and both dishes are therefore called tomato sauce. To avoid confusion, whenever the “sugo” (rather than the “salsa”) appears in a recipe the text will include a parenthetical reference to this recipe.

10
“Pastina” simply means “small pasta,” such as is often used in soups; “malfattini” are a kind of irregularly shaped pasta, also small and used in soups.

11
A knife with a curved, crescent-like blade and handles at both ends, used for chopping; also called “lunetta.”

12
Artusi mentions that these can also be called “agnellotti.” Today a more common variation is “agnolotti.”

13
. Lorenzo Stecchetti,
La tavola e la cucina nei secoli
XV and XVI, Florence, Barbera, p. 4.

14
. Cooking in “bain-marie” is often translated as cooking in a double boiler. However, this is not what Artusi means. Rather, the process he is describing involves the following: you pour the mixture that needs to be cooked into a pan or mold, then you put this pan or mold into a much larger pan in which you have poured enough water to surround and come about 3/4 of the way up the sides (on the outside) of the smaller pan. The water in the larger pan should be hot but never boil. This type of cooking is usually done in the oven.

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