Read Talking with My Mouth Full Online
Authors: Gail Simmons
2½ ripe bananas
⅓ cup whole-milk Greek yogurt
¼ cup coconut milk
2 tablespoons honey
Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare a standard loaf pan with non-stick spray and line with parchment paper. Allow the ends of the parchment paper to hang over the sides of the pan.
On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, toast coconut until lightly golden and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Set aside. When cool, combine 2 tablespoons toasted coconut with peanuts and sprinkle over the bottom of the prepared loaf pan, forming an even layer.
Fill a medium saucepan with about 2 inches of water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Place the chocolate in a large heat-proof mixing bowl that will rest securely in the rim of the saucepan over the water. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the simmering water. Stir chocolate occasionally until completely melted and shiny. Remove bowl of chocolate from the water and set aside. When chocolate has cooled slightly, fold in the peanut butter, stirring until smooth and fully combined.
In a medium mixing bowl, whip ⅔ cup heavy cream until it holds stiff, glossy peaks. Fold half of the whipped cream into the chocolate–peanut butter mixture until lightened, and then fold in the remaining whipped cream until completely combined. Pour half of the mixture into the prepared loaf pan, smoothing the top with an offset spatula to ensure a smooth, even layer is created; set aside remaining chocolate mixture.
In a blender, puree the bananas, Greek yogurt, coconut milk, and honey. Pour the pureed mixture into a medium mixing bowl and fold in remaining toasted coconut. In a separate mixing bowl, whip the remaining ⅓ cup heavy cream until it holds stiff, glossy peaks, then fold into the banana-coconut mixture. Pour mixture on top of the chocolate layer, smoothing the top with an offset spatula. Freeze until just beginning to harden, about 1 hour.
When banana-coconut layer is ready, pour the remaining half of the chocolate–peanut butter mixture into the loaf pan. Run your offset spatula flush across the edges of the loaf pan to create a flat bottom for the bar. Wrap the loaf pan tightly with plastic wrap and freeze until firm, about 1 hour.
Remove the pan from the freezer, run a paring knife along the inside edges, and place a cutting board on top of the bar. Invert the board onto a countertop so the loaf pan is upside down on top of the board. Lift the pan, remove the parchment paper, slice, and serve immediately.
Just Before Bed
Dark Chocolate Hot Cocoa
YIELD: 4 SERVINGS
My father could subsist easily on hot chocolate alone. I don’t blame him.
3 cups whole milk
1 cup bittersweet chocolate, cut into shavings
Over low heat, warm milk in a large saucepan until just beginning to simmer. Whisk chocolate into warmed milk until smooth and velvety. Divide evenly among four mugs. Sweeten with a little sugar if desired.
Midnight Snack
Plum Tart
YIELD: ONE 9-INCH TART
This tart is deceptively simple, and my childhood memories are filled with the intoxicating smell of vanilla released while it was baking. It is really more of a cake and it’s best in late summer, when plums are at their peak. Feel free to substitute other stone fruit, apples, or pears and use the recipe year-round.
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch table salt
1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for coating pan
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 pound red plums, pitted and sliced ½-inch thick
Half of a lemon
Cinnamon-sugar (2 tablespoons sugar, plus ½ teaspoon cinnamon, mixed together)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly brush a 9-inch springform pan with butter.
In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, allowing to fully incorporate before the next addition, then mix in vanilla. Reduce to low speed and incorporate the flour mixture just until the batter comes together. Do not overmix the batter or pastry will be tough. Pour batter into the springform pan and spread evenly with an offset spatula; wrap the pan in plastic and chill at least 20 minutes or overnight.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Arrange the plums in a concentric circle on top of the dough. Squeeze the juice from the lemon half evenly over the plums, ensuring no lemon seeds escape. Sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture over the plums. Bake tart until edges are golden and center is set, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Allow tart to cool in pan. Run a sharp paring knife around the edge and then remove the springform. Serve warm.
The task of properly thanking everyone involved in bringing this book to fruition is almost as daunting as the process of writing the book itself. What started as a list of questions from my agent almost three years ago, about the world of food and chefs, as well as how I saw my place within it, took many twists and turns before it morphed into these pages. I am forever indebted to so many individuals who gently coaxed it out of me, often despite my growing neuroses. My narrative has never been straightforward, but instead has wound itself through the lives of so many extraordinary people. It is due to these countless, cherished friendships that I have been able to accomplish anything at all.
First, infinite thanks to Andy McNicol, my tireless champion and literary agent, who always knows just what to say, when to push me, and how to handle any situation, with the perfect combo of brutal honesty and amazing grace. Serendipitously, our journeys both started as assistants at
Vogue
, and I am so grateful the universe put us together again so many years later.
It was through Andy that I met the remarkable Ada Calhoun, my partner in crime and consummate articulator, kitchen table therapist, and confidante. Ada’s guidance and expert hand in this project have been immeasurable, and I will always be thankful for the opportunity to learn from and collaborate with her.
Finding my way to my editor Jill Schwartzman at Hyperion was equally fortuitous. From the moment I set foot in her office, I felt at home and at ease. Jill’s eagle eye, empathetic shoulder, patience, and knowledge were used in equal portions, allowing me to write the book I dreamed of but had no idea how to approach. Many thanks to the whole Hyperion family, especially Ellen Archer, Elisabeth Dyssegaard, Kristin Kiser, Sarah Rucker, Mindy Stockfield, Bryan Christian, Marie Coolman, Christine Ragasa, Claire McKean, Karen Minster, Cassandra Pappas, and Sam O’Brien.
Thank you to Jeff Googel and Kenny Slotnick, the other two-thirds of my team at William Morris Endeavor Entertainment, for agreeing to take me under the wings of their well-tailored suits. Their business savvy, humor, and constant encouragement is always accurate and appreciated.
Shana Faust, creative director, style guru, and college roomie, has remained the pillar on which I lean at every weak moment, and I assure you those moments are plentiful. Her calm, creative nature and advice were integral and infinitely valued. I am certain Jer and I would not survive if she, Steven, and sweet Bea were not in New York to share it all with us.
A very special thank-you to Allison Veinote, who came into my life, and this project, at just the right time, and put so many disparate pieces of both together, keeping me on track and, when I let her, on time.
For making this book look so much better than I could have alone: Melanie Dunea, Seton Hurson Rossini, Peter Lindberg, Alexa Mulvihill, Julia Rothman, the brilliant team of THUSS + FARRELL, Kimberly Fusaro, Bradley Wayne Tischler, Allan Zepeda, Mikey Katz, Tara Donne, and Zone 4 Architects.
Of course, a story about my life so far is only as strong as the people who fill its pages, and I am beyond lucky to have many families, who let me move between them seamlessly and call them my own:
Thank you, Mom, Dad, Alan, Eric and Kim, Tyler, Elle, and Brooke for giving me more love and support than I could ever imagine, through every twist, turn, and tumble. I love you so much.
I do not take for granted how blessed I am that Noreen, Herb, Jodie, Karen, Rena, and the entire Abrams/Gold contingent, my family-through-marriage, have welcomed and embraced me since we first met. Each and every one of them is, to borrow a phrase from my exceptional mother-in-law,
the best
.
To the friends who have been at my side from the start and whose smarts, generosity, and clarity I cherish beyond words: Vanessa Comisarow, Stacey Grill, Jessica Goldberg, Mia Brown, Mindy Fox, and your valiant husbands, I admire and adore you.
My mentors, Jeffrey Steingarten and Chef Daniel Boulud, along with the amazing Georgette Farkas, Katherine Yang, Celia Laurent, Kathryn Kellinger, Jeanne Koenig, and Elizabeth Alsop, all must take credit for teaching me how to cook, how to eat, how to write, and, well, just about everything important in between.
I also owe so much to my family at
Food & Wine
: Christina Grdovic Baltz, Dana Cowin, Devin Padgett, Wendy Mure, Jay Meyer, Sonia Zala, Diella Koberstein, Francesca Andreani, Rory Tischler, Jodisue Rosen, and so many others. Thank you for betting on the Canadian kid, who seemed more trouble than she was worth, and, most of all, for allowing me a seat at your ever abundant table. Love this job. Love this team.
And of course, thank you to my TV family: Tom Colicchio, Padma Lakshmi, Johnny Iuzzini, Dannielle Kyrillos, and Hubert Keller, who have all taught me so much and made me laugh so hard, always when I needed it most.
Thank you to Lauren Zalaznick, Frances Berwick, Andy Cohen, Dave Serwatka, Tory Brody, Ellen Stone, Suzanne Park, and Monica Reyhani at Bravo, along with my beloved traveling band of hooligans at Magical Elves: Dan Cutforth, Jane Lipsitz, Nan Strait, Liz Cook, Steve Hryniewicz, Paul Starkman, Paul Hogan, Michelle Brown, Darshan Gress, Jason Duffy, Kristen Kiyan, Megan Ray, and the dozens of others who work tirelessly behind the scenes and who make my day (and often long-into-the-night) job the most fun I have ever had.
I am indebted to a few others along the way for their random acts of kindness and constant support, including Nilou Motamed, Jay Takefman, Stevie Devor, Brandon Creed, Chef Jacques Torres, Harriet Bell, Samantha Hanks, and Marcy Blum. Superheroes all.
Foremost and finally, thank you to Jeremy: my home and the infallible love of my life.
GAIL SIMMONS
is a trained culinary expert, food writer, and television personality. She is the Special Projects Director at
Food & Wine
magazine, and has been a permanent judge on Bravo’s Emmy-winning series
Top Chef
, the number one food show on cable television, since the show’s inception in 2006. Gail is also the host of
Top Chef: Just Desserts
, Bravo’s pastry-focused spin-off. Born in Toronto, she now lives in New York City with her husband, Jeremy.
All photos are courtesy of Gail Simmons and all illustrations are by Julia Rothman, except as noted in the text.
Copyright © 2012 GMS Media Inc.
All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. For information address Hyperion, 114 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10011.
The Library of Congress has catalogued the original print edition of this book as follows:
Simmons, Gail.
Talking with my mouth full : my life as a professional eater / Gail Simmons.
p. cm.
ISBN 978-1-4013-2450-6
1. Simmons, Gail. 2. Cooks—Biography. I. Title.
TX649.S293A3 2012
641.5092—dc23
[B]
2011046485
eBook Edition ISBN: 978-1-4013-0415-7
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Cover design by Seton Hurson Rossini
Cover photograph by Melanie Dunea/CPi
First eBook Edition
Original hardcover edition printed in the United States of America.
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