The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils (26 page)

EXTRACTION 1. An essential oil (often called a ‘concrete’) by steam distillation from the rhizomes which have been peeled, washed, dried and pulverized. The rhizomes must be stored for a minimum of three years prior to extraction otherwise they have virtually no scent! 2. An absolute produced by alkali washing in ethyl ether solution to remove the myristic acid from the ’concrete’ oil. 3. A resin or resinoid by alcohol extraction from the peeled rhizomes.

CHARACTERISTICS 1. The oil solidifies at room temperature to a cream-coloured mass with a woody, violetlike scent and a soft, floral-fruity undertone. 2. The absolute is a water-white or pale yellow oily liquid with a delicate, sweet, floral-woody odour. 3. The resin is a brown or dark orange viscous mass with a deep, woody-sweet, tobacco-like scent – very tenacious.

Orris blends well with cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, cypress, mimosa, labdanum, bergamot, clary sage, rose, violet and other florals.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Myristic acid, an odourless substance which makes the ‘oil’ solid (85–90 per cent), alpha-irone and oleic acid.

SAFETY DATA The fresh root causes nausea and vomiting in large doses. The oil and absolute are much adulterated or synthetic – ‘true’ orris absolute is three times the price of jasmine.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE None. However, the powdered orris, which is a common article, may be used as a dry shampoo, a body powder, a fixative for pot pourris, and to scent linen.

OTHER USES The powder is used to scent dentifrices, toothpowders, etc. The resin is used in soaps, colognes and perfumes; the absolute and ‘concrete’ oil are reserved for high class perfumery work. Occasionally used on the Continent for confectionery and fruit flavours.

Cymbopogon martinii var. martinii

FAMILY Graminaceae

SYNONYMS
Andropogon martinii, A. martinii var. motia
, East Indian geranium, Turkish geranium, Indian rosha, motia.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION A wild-growing herbaceous plant with long slender stems and terminal flowering tops; the grassy leaves are very fragrant.

DISTRIBUTION Native to India and Pakistan; now grown in Africa, Indonesia, Brazil and the Comoro Islands.

OTHER SPECIES Of the same family as lemongrass and citronella; also closely related to gingergrass which is a different chemotype known as
C.martinii var. sofia.
Gingergrass is considered an inferior oil but in some parts of India the two types of grass are distilled together.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION ‘The oil term “Indian” or “Turkish” geranium oil, which formerly was applied to palmarosa oil, dates back to the time when the oil was shipped from Bombay to ports of the Red Sea and transported partly by land, to Constantinople and Bulgaria, where the oil was often used for the adulteration of rose oil.’
⁷⁰

ACTIONS Antiseptic, bactericidal, cicatrisant, digestive, febrifuge, hydrating, stimulant (digestive, circulatory), tonic.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam or water distillation of the fresh or dried grass.

CHARACTERISTICS A pale yellow or olive
liquid with a sweet, floral, rosy, geranium-like scent. It blends well with cananga, geranium, oakmoss, rosewood, amyris, sandalwood, guaiacwood, cedarwood and floral oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Mainly geraniol; also farnesol, geranyl acetate, methyl heptenone, citronellol, citral, dipentene and limonene, among others. Several chemotypes depending upon source – the cultivated varieties are considered of superior quality.

SAFETY DATA Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

SKIN CARE
: Acne, dermatitis and minor skin infections, scars, sores, wrinkles; valuable for all types of treatment for the face, hands, feet, neck and lips ( moisturizes the skin, stimulates cellular regeneration, regulates sebum production).

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
: Anorexia, digestive atonia, intestinal infections – ‘This is an essence which acts on the pathogenic intestinal flora, in particular on the colibacillus, the Eberth bacillus and the bacillus of dysentery … this essence favours the transmutation of the pathogenic agent into normal cells of intestinal mucous membranes. Thus it arrests the degeneracy of the cells for the latter, swiftly impels groups of normal cells towards an inferior form in their hierarchy. The essence does not appear to contain any acid.’
⁷¹

NERVOUS SYSTEM
: Nervous exhaustion, stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES Used extensively as a fragrance component in cosmetics, perfumes and especially soaps due to excellent tenacity. Limited use as a flavouring agent, e.g. tobacco. Used for the isolation of natural geraniol.

Petroselinum sativum

FAMILY Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS
P. hortense, Apium petroselinum, Carum petroselinum
, common parsley, garden parsley.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION A biennial or short-lived perennial herb up to 70 cms high with crinkly bright green foliage, small greenish-yellow flowers and producing small brown seeds.

DISTRIBUTION Native to the Mediterranean region, especially Greece. It is cultivated extensively, mainly in California, Germany, France, Belgium, Hungary and parts of Asia. The principal oil-producing countries are France, Germany, Holland and Hungary.

OTHER SPECIES There are over thirty-seven different varieties of parsley, such as the curly-leaved type
(P. crispum)
, which is used in herbal medicine.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION It is used extensively as a culinary herb, both fresh and dried. It is a very nutritious plant, high in vitamins A and C; also used to freshen the breath. The herb and seed are used medicinally, principally for kidney and bladder problems, but it has also been employed for menstrual difficulties, digestive complaints and for arthritis, rheumatism, rickets and sciatica.
It is said to stimulate hair growth, and help eliminate head lice.

The root is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for flatulent dyspepsia with intestinal colic.

ACTIONS Antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, depurative, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypotensive, laxative, stimulant (mild), stomachic, tonic (uterine).

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from 1. the seed, and 2. the herb. (An essential oil is occasionally extracted from the roots; an oleoresin is also produced by solvent extraction from the seeds.)

CHARACTERISTICS 1. A yellow, amber or brownish liquid with a warm woody-spicy herbaceous odour. 2. A pale yellow or greenish liquid with a heavy, warm, spicy-sweet odour, reminiscent of the herb. It blends well with rose, orange blossom, cananga, tea tree, oakmoss, clary sage and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS 1. Mainly apiol, with myristicin, tetramethoxyally-benzene, pinene and volatile fatty acids. 2. Mainly myristicin (up to 85 per cent), with phellandrene, myrcene, apiol, terpinolene, menthatriene, pinene and carotel, among others.

SAFETY DATA Both oils are moderately toxic and irritant – myristicin has been shown to have toxic properties, and apiol has been shown to have irritant properties; otherwise non-sensitizing. Use in moderation. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

CIRCULATION, MUSCLES AND JOINTS
:
Accumulation of toxins, arthritis, broken blood vessels, cellulitis, rheumatism, sciatica.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
: Colic, flatulence, indigestion, haemorrhoids.

GENITO-URINARY SYSTEM
: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, to aid labour, cystitis, urinary infection.

OTHER USES Used in some carminative and digestive remedies, such as ‘gripe waters’. The seed oil is used in soaps, detergents, colognes, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. The herb and seed oil as well as the oleoresin are used extensively in many types of food flavourings, especially meats, pickles and sauces, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.

Pogostemon cablin

FAMILY Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS P.
patchouly
, patchouly, puchaput.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION A perennial bushy herb up to 1 metre high with a sturdy, hairy stem, large, fragrant, furry leaves and white flowers tinged with purple.

DISTRIBUTION Native to tropical Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. It is extensively cultivated for its oil in its native regions as well as India, China, Malaysia and South America. The oil is also distilled in Europe and America from the dried leaves.

OTHER SPECIES Closely related to the Java patchouli
(P. heyneanus)
, also known as false patchouli, which is also occasionally used to produce an essential oil.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION The oil is used in the East generally to scent linen and clothes, and is believed to help prevent the spread of disease (prophylactic). In China, Japan and Malaysia the herb is used to treat colds, headaches, nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain and halitosis. In Japan and Malaysia it is used as an antidote to poisonous snakebites.

ACTIONS Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, anti-emetic, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic,
antiseptic, antitoxic, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, deodorant, digestive, diuretic, febrifuge, fungicidal, nervine, prophylactic, stimulant (nervous), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation of the dried leaves (usually subjected to fermentation previously). A resinoid is also produced, mainly as a fixative.

CHARACTERISTICS An amber or dark orange viscous liquid with a sweet, rich, herbaceous-earthy odour – it improves with age. It blends well with labdanum, vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, geranium, clove, lavender, rose, neroli, bergamot, cassia, myrrh, opopanax, clary sage and oriental-type bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Patchouli alcohol (40 per cent approx.), pogostol, bulnesol, nor patchoulenol, bulnese, patchoulene, among others.

SAFETY DATA Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

SKIN CARE
: Acne, athlete’s foot, cracked and chapped skin, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema (weeping), fungal infections, hair care, impetigo, insect repellent, sores, oily hair and skin, open pores, wounds, wrinkles.

NERVOUS SYSTEM:
Frigidity, nervous exhaustion and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES Extensively used in cosmetic preparations, and as a fixative in soaps and perfumes, especially oriental types. Extensively used in the food industry, in alcoholic and soft drinks. It makes a good masking agent for unpleasant tastes and smells.

Mentha pulegium

FAMILY Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS Pulegium, European pennyroyal, pudding grass.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION A perennial herb up to 50 cms tall with smooth roundish stalks, small, pale purple flowers and very aromatic, grey-green, oval leaves. Like other members of the mint family, it has a fibrous creeping root.

DISTRIBUTION Native to Europe and parts of Asia; it is cultivated mainly in southern Spain, Morocco, Tunisia, Portugal, Italy, Yugoslavia and Turkey.

OTHER SPECIES There are several different varieties of pennyroyal according to location: in Britain the ‘erecta’ and ‘decumbens’ types are most common. The North American pennyroyal
(Hedeoma pulegoides)
, which is also used to produce an essential oil, belongs to a slightly different species, though it shares similar properties with the European variety.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION A herbal remedy of ancient repute, used for a wide variety of ailments. It was believed to purify the blood and also be able to communicate its purifying qualities to water. ‘Pennyroyal water was distilled from the leaves and given as an antidote to spasmodic, nervous and hysterical affections. It was also used against cold and “affections of the joints”.’
⁷²

It is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, indicated for flatulent dyspepsia, intestinal colic, the common cold, delayed menstruation, cutaneous eruptions and gout.

ACTIONS Antiseptic, antispasmodic, diaphoretic, carminative, digestive, emmenagogue, insect repellent, refrigerant, stimulant.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh or slightly dried herb.

CHARACTERISTICS A colourless or pale yellow liquid with a very fresh, minty-herbaceous odour. It blends well with geranium, rosemary, lavandin, sage and citronella.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Mainly pulegone, with menthone, iso-menthone, octanol, piperitenone and trans-iso-pulegone. Constituents vary according to source – the Moroccan oil contains up to 96 per cent pulegone.

SAFETY DATA Oral toxin. Abortifacient (due to pulegone content). Ingestion of large doses has resulted in death.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE None. ‘Should not be used in aromatherapy whether internally or externally.’
⁷³

OTHER USES Used as a fragrance material mainly in detergents or low-cost industrial perfumes. Mainly employed as a source of natural pulegone.

Piper nigrum

FAMILY Piperaceae

SYNONYMS Piper, pepper.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION A perennial woody vine up to 5 metres high with heart-shaped leaves and small white flowers. The berries turn from red to black as they mature – black pepper is the dried fully grown unripe fruit.

DISTRIBUTION Native to south west India; cultivated extensively in tropical countries. Major producers are India, Indonesia, Malaysia, China and Madagascar. It is also distilled in Europe and America from the imported dried fruits.

OTHER SPECIES The so-called white pepper is the dried ripe fruit with the outer pericarp removed. Not to be confused with cayenne pepper or paprika from the capsicum species, which are used to make an oleoresin.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION Both black and white pepper have been used in the East for over 4000 years for medicinal and culinary purposes. In Chinese medicine, white pepper is used to treat malaria, cholera, dysentery, diarrhoea, stomach ache and other digestive problems. In Greece it is used for intermittent fever and to fortify the stomach. ‘The mendicant monks of India who cover daily considerable distances on foot, swallow 7–9 grains of pepper a day. This gives them remarkable endurance.’
⁷⁴

ACTIONS Analgesic, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, aperitif, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, carminative, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, febrifuge, laxative, rubefacient, stimulant (nervous, circulatory, digestive), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from the black peppercorns, dried and crushed. (‘Light’ and ‘heavy’ oils are produced by the extraction of the low or high boiling fractions respectively.) An oleoresin is also produced by solvent extraction, mainly for flavour use.