Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers (10 page)

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SALSAS AND CONDIEMENTOS
 
S
alsa isn’t just the tomato stuff in a jar you pick up at the store when you’re grabbing a bag of tortilla chips. Not only does
salsa
mean “sauce” in Spanish, it covers a huge array of warm cooked sauces, spicy chile sauces, creamy sauces with nuts, or “dairy” sauces made better with dairy substitutes or cool purees of vegetables, fruits, or herbs. Fans of Mexican-style salsas will see familiar ingredients—tomatoes, cilantro, avocados—done up in both familiar and new ways, depending on what cultural lens they’re looking through. And that’s a good thing! Stepping out of the tomato salsa safety zone can take you to new and exciting experiences, such as zesty green
ají
sauce or a savory peanut sauce with a totally Latin twist.
 
When I say salsa is exciting, I mean it . . . a great sauce can really make a meal—or make an already great meal even better. Latin sauces have the advantage of using full-flavored herbs and fresh vegetables and fruits and chile peppers, all ingredients that often require only minimal effort on your part. So while your tortillas or arepas are baking or the beans are bubbling, make a salsa (or two). As they say, you’ll be really cooking with gas (but really with an even better natural resource, salsa!).
 
CREAMY AVOCADO-TOMATO SALSA (VENEZUELAN GUASACACA)
 
 

Makes about 1½ cups salsa

Time: Less than 10minutes
• Time: Less than 10 minutes

Gluten Free, Soy Free
 
 
You think you know avocados by way of guacamole, but avos are enjoyed, too, in a saucy form. This juicy salsa (called
guasacaca
) hails from Venezuela, where it’s used as a condiment with lots of stuff. It’s not so much a guacamole but more a cool, tangy sauce with a hint of extra richness from the olive oil. I love it with empanadas, but it’s also stellar tucked into an arepa or heaped alongside beans and rice. In Venezuela, it’s typically served with grilled foods, so do it right and serve with grilled tofu or tempeh.
 
 
Tip:
In Venezuela you don’t see hot chiles (called
ají
) used here, but I suspect that if you’re used to other chile-fired Latin cuisines, you may want to sneak a little heat into this salsa. I like a few dashes of bottled red hot sauce.
 
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ripe avocado, peeled, seeded, and
diced finely
1 large ripe tomato (about ½ pound),
seeded and diced finely
½ cup finely minced white onion
3 tablespoons lime juice or white wine
vinegar
2 tablespoons good-quality olive oil
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
cilantro
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
Lime juice or vinegar (optional)
2 tablespoons of finely chopped parsley
(optional)
A few dashes of your favorite red hot
sauce (optional)
 
 
1. Place all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Using a potato masher or a large fork, gently mash the ingredients just enough to create a creamy texture but still leave some chunks of avocado. Taste and adjust the flavor with more salt, lime juice or vinegar, parsley, and/or hot sauce, if desired. Serve immediately.
GREEN TOMATILLO SAUCE
 
 

Makes 4 cups sauce

Time: About 40 minutes

Gluten Free, Soy Free
 
 
Tomatillos, the green, jacket-wearing cousins of tomatoes, are what make this classic green sauce a refreshing alternative to tomato-based chile sauces for enchiladas and tamales, just for starters. When I get the craving for tangy tomatillos served with fresh vegetables or warm-weather dishes, nothing but this sauce will do. (A touch of sweetener—either from sugar or agave nectar—rounds out the sharpness of the sauce, but leave it out if you like.) Try serving with Farmers’ Market Tamales (page 194) or as an essential part of Potato-Chickpea Enchiladas with (you guessed it) To matillo Sauce (page 133).
 
 
Tip:
Tomatillos, once their papery husks have been removed, may have a slightly tacky, soapy film on their skins. I like to wash them by placing them in a salad spinner, fill with enough warm water to cover, slosh them around and lift the spinning basket out of the washing water. Try with a few changes of water until the water seems a less soapy and the tomatillo skins feel smoother.
 
1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, washed
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 jalapeño, serrano, or other green chiles,
washed, sliced in half, and seeded if
desired (for hotter sauce, leave the
seeds)
1 medium-size onion, chopped
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, lightly packed
1 teaspoon dried oregano or Mexican
oregano
2 tablespoons peanut or olive oil
1½ cups well-seasoned vegetable broth
2 teaspoons sugar, or 1 teaspoon agave
syrup (optional)
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
 
 
1. Fill a large pot with enough water to allow the tomatillos to float, cover, and bring the water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the tomatillos and cook for 10 minutes, stirring them occasionally, or until the skins start to split and the tomatillos’ bright green color turns a dull olive green. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked tomatillos to a bowl to cool for 20 minutes. Cooked tomatillos may collapse and release some juices while they cool.
2. In a blender jar, pulse the cooled tomatillos with their juices, garlic, chiles, onion, and cilantro to form a thick sauce. In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat the peanut oil, add tomatillo mixture, and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Slowly stir in the vegetable broth and bring to a boil again, then lower heat to a simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally; the sauce should thicken enough to thinly coat the back of a spoon lightly. Season with sugar and salt to taste.
PEANUT SAUCE (SALSA DE MANI)
 
 

Makes a little over 1 cup sauce

Time: Less than 15 minutes

Gluten Free, Soy Free
 
 
Who doesn’t love a good peanut sauce? Even if you’re not entirely sure you do, give this sauce a try! Peanuts (natives of South America) are as American as it gets. Latin American-style peanut sauces tend toward mild and creamy and go perfectly with just about anything from yuca to rice to steamed vegetables. I like to offset the richness of the sauce by serving it with steamed kale or broccoli.
 
This sauce was born to be with Ecuadorian
llapingachos
(page 57), tender mashed potato pancakes. This recipe makes just enough sauce to top the pancakes, but try doubling it to have some extra peanut sauce whenever the craving strikes.
 
1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil
1 small onion, minced
1 large tomato, seeded and chopped finely
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
½
cup warm vegetable broth

cup smooth natural peanut butter
¼ cup almond milk or favorite
nondairy milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
 
 
1. In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the peanut oil and minced onion. Fry the onion until very soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato and cumin and cook for 2 minutes. In a measuring cup, stir together the warm vegetable broth and peanut butter until the mixture is emulsified, then pour into the pan. Stir and add the nondairy milk, lower the heat to low, and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
2. Remove from the heat and serve warm. If desired, puree the sauce for a smoother consistency, or serve as is.
CHIMICHURRI SAUCE WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA
 
 

Makes about 1½ cups sauce

Time: Less than 10minutes
• Time: Less than 10 minutes
Soy Free
 
 
A fresh, lively Argentinean sauce that’s just too good to be secreted away by steak eaters any longer. Think of it as a spicy pesto—
chimichurri
begs to be tucked into sandwiches, served with any appetizer as a pâté, paired with empanadas, and dabbed onto grilled tempeh or seitan. Try Chimichurri Baked Tofu (page 100) for an easy protein entrée.
 
Chimichurri
has many variations in Argentina. The smoked paprika, in this case, adds a rich depth. Sometimes
chimichurri
is chopped by hand, but it’s easier by far and perhaps even tastier just to throw everything into a food processor for a creamy paste. This sauce gains more flavor by getting a chance to mellow, so make a day in advance or at least an hour before serving.
 
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 large shallots, chopped
1 large bunch fresh flat-leaf (Italian)
parsley, thick stems removed
⅓ cup olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more
to taste
½ teaspoon sea salt
 
 
1. Place the garlic, shallots and parsley into a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Stream in the olive oil, red wine vinegar, paprika, oregano, basil, red pepper flakes, and sea salt, and pulse until creamy. Taste the sauce and adjust with more salt or red wine vinegar, if desired. Store in a tightly covered container and keep chilled until ready to use.
PICKLED RED ONIONS
 
 

Makes about 3 cups onions

Time: Less than 15 minutes, not including marinating time

Soy Free
 
 
This may not be a sauce, but I bet you’ll be reaching for these refreshing onions as much as your favorite salsa. Variations of pickled onions are found throughout Latin America, and although these aren’t exactly pickled (more like strategically marinated), you won’t hold it against them after tasting their tangy sweet flavor and soft yet crunchy texture. Their bright rosy color instantly beautifies any potato dish, tofu, taco,
llapingachos
(page 57), Creamy Potato Peanut Stew (page 138), or rice and beans platter. This recipe makes a lot, perfect for also spontaneously beautifying your favorite sandwich or even atop veggie hot dogs.
 
1½ pounds red onions, sliced in half
lengthwise and then very thinly
⅓ cup lime juice
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or lemon
juice
2½ teaspoons kosher salt
A pinch of sugar
 
 
1. In a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Place a metal colander in the sink. Add the onions to the rapidly boiling water. Stir for about 30 seconds, then drain into the colander and rinse thoroughly with cold water to stop the onions from cooking. Shake the colander well to release excess water. In a 2-quart plastic or glass container, combine the drained onions, lime juice, vinegar, salt, and sugar. Toss to mix everything, tightly cover the container, and chill for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to blend. The onions will taste best if allowed to marinate overnight.
2. To serve, grab a few generous tablespoons of onions and shake off any excess juice. Pile generously on the serving plate. The cool, crunchy onions go especially well with hot, spicy, moist foods. Kept tightly covered in the refrigerator, these onions will last for at least 2 weeks but have a habit of disappearing long before that.

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