Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers (7 page)
Read Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers Online
Authors: Terry Hope Romero
Oregano
is widely used throughout Latin America, another European export spread far and wide by its popular use in Spanish cuisine. Grow your own or use high-quality Greek or Italian dried herbs for really aromatic results (much better than run-of-the-mill supermarket stuff).
is widely used throughout Latin America, another European export spread far and wide by its popular use in Spanish cuisine. Grow your own or use high-quality Greek or Italian dried herbs for really aromatic results (much better than run-of-the-mill supermarket stuff).
Mexican oregano
is actually an entirely different plant than standard oregano and is native to Central America. It’s a relative of lemon verbena but has a pungent oregano-like flavor with citrusy notes. You can tell Mexican oregano apart from the gringo stuff, as the dried leaves are pointed with jagged edges, a lighter shade of green, and have tiny, pointed flower clusters.
is actually an entirely different plant than standard oregano and is native to Central America. It’s a relative of lemon verbena but has a pungent oregano-like flavor with citrusy notes. You can tell Mexican oregano apart from the gringo stuff, as the dried leaves are pointed with jagged edges, a lighter shade of green, and have tiny, pointed flower clusters.
Other dried herbs and spiced that make an appearance are
dried thyme
,
freshly ground black pepper
,
ground cinnamon
,
cloves
, and both
hot
and
sweet ground paprika
.
Smoked hot paprika
is one of my favorites to add to foods, such as Chorizo Seitan (page 36), for its warm smoky flavor and deep red color.
dried thyme
,
freshly ground black pepper
,
ground cinnamon
,
cloves
, and both
hot
and
sweet ground paprika
.
Smoked hot paprika
is one of my favorites to add to foods, such as Chorizo Seitan (page 36), for its warm smoky flavor and deep red color.
Annatto
or
achiote seeds
are dark red, hard little seeds from a tropical shrub native to the Americas. Valued for its vibrant yellow-orange-reddish hue, annatto generously adds intense color to Latin American foods. You’ll find this in most any grocery that carries Latin American herbs and spices, often sold in large containers in its whole seed form, from which you can make Annatto-Infused Oil (page 31) to use in recipes. If you can find preground annatto or achiote paste, you may also use this to color foods instead of preparing the oil.
or
achiote seeds
are dark red, hard little seeds from a tropical shrub native to the Americas. Valued for its vibrant yellow-orange-reddish hue, annatto generously adds intense color to Latin American foods. You’ll find this in most any grocery that carries Latin American herbs and spices, often sold in large containers in its whole seed form, from which you can make Annatto-Infused Oil (page 31) to use in recipes. If you can find preground annatto or achiote paste, you may also use this to color foods instead of preparing the oil.
Frozen Latin produce offers an exciting way to sample exotic fruits, vegetables, and chiles that would otherwise be impossible to obtain fresh but just are not the same when consumed dried. Yeah, of course a frozen chile isn’t the same as a fresh blah blah blah, but at least you’ll be able to get a truer sense of what it tastes like off the vine. And some things, such as frozen yuca chunks, are just plain convenient!
Speaking of, frozen South American chiles are some of my favorite fun frozen Latin ingredients.
Frozen ají amarillo
and huge fiery
rocoto
are convenient, never go bad, and just require a brief rinse in hot tap water to thaw slightly before using.
Frozen ají amarillo
and huge fiery
rocoto
are convenient, never go bad, and just require a brief rinse in hot tap water to thaw slightly before using.
Frozen tropical fruit purees
are incredibly flavorful and easily broken up into smaller pieces to be blended with rice milk, sugar, or anything else for fast tropical drinks. Buy one, two, or a little of everything and be ready for the next heat wave!
are incredibly flavorful and easily broken up into smaller pieces to be blended with rice milk, sugar, or anything else for fast tropical drinks. Buy one, two, or a little of everything and be ready for the next heat wave!
Frozen gandules
and
fava
beans are my preferred choice for both of these beans. Frozen favas are fresh, large green-hued beans (looking a little like limas) and you may want to remove their outside peel after cooking, which is relatively easy as the beans will pop out of their peel with just a little gentle pressure.
and
fava
beans are my preferred choice for both of these beans. Frozen favas are fresh, large green-hued beans (looking a little like limas) and you may want to remove their outside peel after cooking, which is relatively easy as the beans will pop out of their peel with just a little gentle pressure.
Precut, peeled, and ready to cook
frozen yuca chunks
require only a big pot of boiling salted water on your end, for faster
yuca frita
or served with garlicky
mojo
sauce.
frozen yuca chunks
require only a big pot of boiling salted water on your end, for faster
yuca frita
or served with garlicky
mojo
sauce.
Frozen choclo corn
is the next best thing to fresh giant white corn kernels from South America. A fun snack and an authentic partner to Peruvian-style ceviches.
is the next best thing to fresh giant white corn kernels from South America. A fun snack and an authentic partner to Peruvian-style ceviches.
KITCHEN TOOLS (OR HOW DO I SLICE A MANGO?)
I
t may surprise you to learn I don’t own a stand mixer. My food processor is tiny and doubles as a blender (with the proper attachment), and I do almost all of my mixing with a rubber spatula. The point is, kitchen equipment is ultimately about personal preference and it should work for you, not the other way around.
t may surprise you to learn I don’t own a stand mixer. My food processor is tiny and doubles as a blender (with the proper attachment), and I do almost all of my mixing with a rubber spatula. The point is, kitchen equipment is ultimately about personal preference and it should work for you, not the other way around.
But if you’re wondering what to get if you’re just starting out, or suspect that cutting melons with a butter knife is not the best method, then this is the place to start. Following are the basics that will serve you well, along with a few special Latin cooking tools that make certain jobs much easier and are also just really fun to have (especially if you become a hard-core tortilla or
tostone
fanatic).
tostone
fanatic).
Some things will make your kitchen time go faster, smoother, and more efficiently. Anything to get you eating sooner than later is a helpful part of your kitchen ar senal.
Chef’s knife:
An 8-inch knife can conquer most any chopping task at hand. The sharper the better, as dull knives are more likely to slide off foods and slide onto you, definitely not fun. You don’t have to spend too much, either . . . a good quality thirty-dollar knife will do everything you ask of it and then some.
An 8-inch knife can conquer most any chopping task at hand. The sharper the better, as dull knives are more likely to slide off foods and slide onto you, definitely not fun. You don’t have to spend too much, either . . . a good quality thirty-dollar knife will do everything you ask of it and then some.
Thin, sharp, serrated knife:
This type of knife is ideal for slicing soft foods with a thicker peel, including tomatoes and plantains, and is essential for slicing mangoes (see box, page 233).
This type of knife is ideal for slicing soft foods with a thicker peel, including tomatoes and plantains, and is essential for slicing mangoes (see box, page 233).
Heavy-duty cutting board:
I like bamboo, but use wood, heavy plastic, or whatever you’re comfortable with. A heavy cutting board is better than the skimpy one (such as glass or thin plastic) as it will move around less and be able to withstand more. To keep any cutting board from rocking on around the countertop, place a thick kitchen towel under it; it will help absorb some of the shock and keep it grounded.
I like bamboo, but use wood, heavy plastic, or whatever you’re comfortable with. A heavy cutting board is better than the skimpy one (such as glass or thin plastic) as it will move around less and be able to withstand more. To keep any cutting board from rocking on around the countertop, place a thick kitchen towel under it; it will help absorb some of the shock and keep it grounded.
I like to have at least two cutting boards handy: a small board for quick jobs and a great big one for chopping up everything for a big
sancocho
soup, for example. I also have a tiny cutting board made out of eco-friendly “paperstone”—it’s made from some superhigh-tech method of recycling paper into a tough-as-nails surface—that holds up in the dishwasher nicely. It’s the lowest-maintenance cutting board I’ve ever owned.
sancocho
soup, for example. I also have a tiny cutting board made out of eco-friendly “paperstone”—it’s made from some superhigh-tech method of recycling paper into a tough-as-nails surface—that holds up in the dishwasher nicely. It’s the lowest-maintenance cutting board I’ve ever owned.
Heavy skillet, cast-iron and stainless steel or nonstick:
Cast iron is very popular through most of Latin America and it’s an ideal surface on which to cook items at very high heat, when grilling or pan-frying. I love my cast-iron skillets. Use the best quality you can afford; a properly cared for cast-iron pan will outlast you. A lovingly tended cast-iron
casuela
will often be passed down through a Latin family.
Cast iron is very popular through most of Latin America and it’s an ideal surface on which to cook items at very high heat, when grilling or pan-frying. I love my cast-iron skillets. Use the best quality you can afford; a properly cared for cast-iron pan will outlast you. A lovingly tended cast-iron
casuela
will often be passed down through a Latin family.
But if your skillet isn’t cast iron, just make sure that at least it’s heavy bottomed, so as to be able to conduct heat well. A 12-inch-wide, deep stainless-steel skillet with a lid is great for sautéing anything or braising vegetables. It may require more oil to keep stuff from sticking, unlike well-seasoned, properly maintained cast-iron (see tip box).
• I’ve been phasing out nonstick cookware from my kitchen but will admit that it has an advantage with easy cleanup. If you do use nonstick cookware, for safety concerns, I suggest using it only for quickly cooking foods at medium or low heat, such as sautéing a big pile of leafy greens. Nonstick is safer to use with a few basic rules:
• Buy a high-quality pan with a hard, glossy finish (avoid dull finishes found on cheap cookware). Some of the big box stores now offer “greener” nonstick cookware that claims to be free of some of the more dubious chemicals of older nonstick technology.
• Never ever use metal utensils, including forks, metal tongs, or spatulas, on nonstick surfaces. Have handy a set of silicone-tipped cookware and tongs or use smooth wooden spoons for stirring or lifting food.
• Always use medium or lower heat when cooking with nonstick. Never use high heat and always have something (onions, vegetables, etc.) in the pan when you heat it up, to help keep the total temperature in the pan lower and prevent scorching (or potentially creating unhealthy nonstick fumes).
Large lidded pot that can be fitted with a steamer basket:
For making tamales, of course, unless you hate tamales, puppies, and happiness. Look for at least a 4-quart pot set that comes with a fitted steamer basket and a tight-fitting lid, sometimes with adjustable steam vents for controlling the rate at which the water evaporates from the pot.
For making tamales, of course, unless you hate tamales, puppies, and happiness. Look for at least a 4-quart pot set that comes with a fitted steamer basket and a tight-fitting lid, sometimes with adjustable steam vents for controlling the rate at which the water evaporates from the pot.
Caring for Cast IronC
onsidering they’re made out of iron, castiron pans deserve a little bit of babying when you’re first breaking them in. Some brands out there sell preseasoned pans, which I highly recommend to start with. I never clean seasoned cast-iron with soap, instead I just scrub with a mixture of kosher salt and warm water until the sticky bits are gone, rinse with hot water, and heat on the stove to evaporate any moisture to prevent rusting. When the pan is cool, wipe down the cooking surface with a thin coat of vegetable oil and you’re done. A really well-seasoned pan can usually just be wiped down (also when cool) with a paper towel after cooking nonjuicy foods such as tortillas or pancakes, no need to scrub or clean. A quick Internet search for “cast-iron seasoning care” or “seasoning cast-iron pans” can tell you all these things in greater detail than can fit into this little box.
Heavy, large, solid-bottomed pot with a lid for frying:
Again, I feel cast iron is best for this. It should have sides at least 4 inches high; a Dutch oven-style pot is perfect for deep-frying. This is the pot ideal for making refried beans or
tostones
, for example. I have another cast-iron pot, this one enamel-glazed and with a lid, which I use for making rice and other grains or foods that are acidic, such as those with lots of tomatoes, tomatillos, or beer.
Again, I feel cast iron is best for this. It should have sides at least 4 inches high; a Dutch oven-style pot is perfect for deep-frying. This is the pot ideal for making refried beans or
tostones
, for example. I have another cast-iron pot, this one enamel-glazed and with a lid, which I use for making rice and other grains or foods that are acidic, such as those with lots of tomatoes, tomatillos, or beer.
Cast-iron grill pan:
Another kind of cast-iron skillet, typically square, whose bottom has raised ridges for effective grilling and for making those spiffy grill marks on food. Nice for tofu, tempeh, seitan kebabs, corn, grilled vegetables, and even arepas or sandwiches. Season and care for as you would other cast-iron cookware.
Another kind of cast-iron skillet, typically square, whose bottom has raised ridges for effective grilling and for making those spiffy grill marks on food. Nice for tofu, tempeh, seitan kebabs, corn, grilled vegetables, and even arepas or sandwiches. Season and care for as you would other cast-iron cookware.
Tongs:
I use tongs to grill stuff, toss salad, pick up hot tortillas, sauté vegetables, you name it. They’re nice for turning vegetables roasting in the oven (they’re even handy for grabbing stuff off really high shelves!). I have long-handled metal ones for grilling and silicone-tipped ones for use with any nonstick cookware.
I use tongs to grill stuff, toss salad, pick up hot tortillas, sauté vegetables, you name it. They’re nice for turning vegetables roasting in the oven (they’re even handy for grabbing stuff off really high shelves!). I have long-handled metal ones for grilling and silicone-tipped ones for use with any nonstick cookware.
Large, heavy, nonreactive pot
—ideally stainless steel—for cooking beans and soups. Could even just be the pot and lid you steam tamales in. Who said I don’t believe in multitasking?
—ideally stainless steel—for cooking beans and soups. Could even just be the pot and lid you steam tamales in. Who said I don’t believe in multitasking?
Hopefully, you have other stuff, such as
baking sheets
,
baking pans
,
measuring cups and spoons
,
mixing bowls
,
a whisk
,
and a few rubber spatulas
, too. I’m also a fan of
Microplane graters
, for tackling citrus zest and turning garlic into a fine pulp that works readily into seitan dough.
baking sheets
,
baking pans
,
measuring cups and spoons
,
mixing bowls
,
a whisk
,
and a few rubber spatulas
, too. I’m also a fan of
Microplane graters
, for tackling citrus zest and turning garlic into a fine pulp that works readily into seitan dough.
I’ll keep this short so you don’t have to completely clutter up the kitchen just on my account. But there are a few tools I love and use all the time to get this fiesta going.
Immersion blender:
Lots of smooth sauces, creamy soups, and special effects thanks to pureed silken tofu can happen faster, neater, and easier via a handheld immersion blender (as opposed to a food processor or blender). Look for model that comes equipped with a mini-food processor jar that’s super useful for grinding up toasted spices and chiles for mole and chile sauces.
Lots of smooth sauces, creamy soups, and special effects thanks to pureed silken tofu can happen faster, neater, and easier via a handheld immersion blender (as opposed to a food processor or blender). Look for model that comes equipped with a mini-food processor jar that’s super useful for grinding up toasted spices and chiles for mole and chile sauces.
Corn zipper:
If you’re serious about your summer corn enjoyment, then you just might need this rather silly-sounding gadget, which wins the award for most unlikely combination of words . . . corn + zipper = a tool that neatly and quickly separates the kernel from its cob for perfectly shucked kernels.
If you’re serious about your summer corn enjoyment, then you just might need this rather silly-sounding gadget, which wins the award for most unlikely combination of words . . . corn + zipper = a tool that neatly and quickly separates the kernel from its cob for perfectly shucked kernels.
Heat diffuser for gas burners:
A ventilated metal plate with a handle, heat diffusers are your friend for more even heating and less burning for stovetop cooking. Just put your pots (especially big pots of thick stew) on a heat diffuser when cooking at very high heat or for a long time. Also useful for roasting little chiles that might slip through the grille of your gas burner (see page 264 about chile roasting).
A ventilated metal plate with a handle, heat diffusers are your friend for more even heating and less burning for stovetop cooking. Just put your pots (especially big pots of thick stew) on a heat diffuser when cooking at very high heat or for a long time. Also useful for roasting little chiles that might slip through the grille of your gas burner (see page 264 about chile roasting).
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