Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers (4 page)

 
Heavy cream substitute
is yet another generic term for the soy- or nut-based cream substitutes now available. Silk brand is the most commonly found
soy creamer
and the new MimicCreme, although not as widely available, is a wonderful heavy cream stand-in made from almonds and cashews. The unsweetened variety is excellent for use in soups. I generally use only plain soy creamer and unsweetened nut-based creamers.
 
Do not by any means use that powdered “nondairy creamer” designed for coffee; it’s insanely artificial tasting and full of bad-for-you hydrogenated oils. Just say no!
 
Tofu
usually comes up when the topic of vegan food arises. Properly prepared tofu is like the chameleon of foods and can be transformed into savory entrées, light desserts, and everything in between. Generally the water-packed, chilled “Chinese” firm style is used for baked tofu and savory dishes. “Japanese” silken tofu (either water-packed or boxed) is used for some desserts or where a smooth-textured, blended consistency is desired. Consult the recipe for which kind of tofu should be used.
 
Tempeh
originally hails from Indonesia but has since spread like a mushroom all over the non-meat-eating community. The short story is that it’s a fermented soybean cake, which sounds terrible but when properly made tastes awesome! It has a firm, distinctly non-tofu-like texture, and a rich, nuanced flavor. Tempeh should be lightly steamed first to help soften it up to absorb the flavor from marinating (the second step) just before frying (the last step that makes everything great, including tempeh).
 
Vital wheat gluten
flour is special wheat flour whose starchy portion has been removed so only the protein gluten is left. Silky and a pale creamy color, it is used to make seitan (wheat meat) in these recipes. You’ll most likely have to go to a health food store to find this item, or online to check out baking specialty stores. I recommend purchasing a lot of it, either in bulk or the largest packages you can, if you become really excited about making seitan.
 
Seitan
is a wonderfully chewy “meat from wheat” crafted from seasoned vital wheat gluten, which can be purchased or made at home. Of the unmeat power trio (tofu, tempeh, and seitan), this one usually wins over omnivores first with its chewiness, excellent grill-ability, and meaty appearance. Homemade seitan can be as involved a process as you like; the seitan recipes in this book (steamed rather than boiled or baked like most seitan) are fairly minimalist and don’t require too much fiddling on your part. Seitan is great for individuals who can’t handle soy (as long as it’s not seasoned with soy sauce!); it pairs superbly with Latin cuisine; and when sliced and cooked just the right way, it even looks like meat.
 
Nutritional yeast
is a special ingredient no vegan or health nut should be without, as it provides a cheeselike flavor to foods, along with a boost of vitamin B
12
, protein, and other things to keep you alive. Look for golden yellow powdery flakes with a savory smell and melt-on-your-tongue texture, either sold in bulk or packed in jars. This book uses it primarily for flavoring seitan and in a few other cheeselike concoctions. Absolutely
do not
confuse with brewer’s yeast, which smells like old socks and will not work in these recipes!
 
Textured vegetable protein
(TVP) is made from soy and is available in dehydrated form (usually chunks or small bits). It always needs be rehydrated before eating and is best when tossed into a simmering sauce or soup. When flavored correctly it transforms in something hearty and chewy and provides a satisfying meatlike experience. TVP is an old-school vegetarian meat substitute that I only use occasionally in some soups and stews for a special hearty, chewy effect. You won’t need to purchase much if you choose to use it with this book; one large bag of the large chunk style should suffice. You could also substitute Soy Curls—a dried, soy-based protein made with whole soybeans—for TVP in any recipe, too.
 
The Latin Pantry
 
Beans, rice, chile peppers . . . they’re all right here, along with a few other things you may not be but should get more fa - miliar with. These ingredients cover most everything you’ll need to make the following recipes, but be sure to read through a recipe first to see if there are special things required.
 
Beans
, cooked to perfection, are the heart and soul of so many of Latin recipes, not to mention one fine, filling, and wonderfully cheap source of protein, fiber, and nutrients.
Canned beans
are an ideal convenience food during those busy times and are useful when you require just a little bit of beans and not a whole pot. With a little advanced planning, you may find that
dried beans
need not be inconvenient at all and even lend themselves to freezing.
 
Purchased
frozen beans
are not as widely used, but frozen fava beans and frozen pigeon peas work well for these recipes. If you’re lucky enough to find either, I promise you’ll be delighted by the fresh, vegetable-like texture that big fava beans provide. Frozen pigeon peas (
gandules
) are common wherever frozen Caribbean ingredients can be found and have superior flavor and texture to the canned variety. Frozen beans can be added directly straight from the freezer to rice prior to cooking and do not require thawing.
 
Coconut milk
is practically a requirement for so many tropical dishes and desserts. Canned full-fat or reduced-fat coconut milk can be used interchangeably unless noted.
 
Coconut cream
is the concentrated fat from coconut milk, often containing finely grated bits of coconut flesh. It’s rich, creamy, and coconutty (perhaps as close to a decadent “dairy” thing as naturally vegan ingredients get) and can be obtained either by skimming it off the top of a can of full-fat coconut milk or by purchasing it separately in small cans or in solid blocks. Some solid brands of coconut cream are somewhat dehydrated and need to be chopped into chunks and soaked in water to be reconstituted into a creamy consistency once more. Check the ingredients label to be sure the brand you use is pure coconut and vegan.
 
Panela
, a minimally refined natural brown cane sugar, is also known by many regional names such as
chancaca
,
papelón,
or
piloncillo
and can even be found in some Indian markets as
jaggery
or
gur
. It’s a true brown sugar—it’s not just white sugar with molasses added.
Panela
is not overly sweet and has strong molasses, caramel, and honey-like flavors. It gives everything it’s made with a pretty caramel-amber color. Not granulated like more refined sugars,
panela
is sold in heavy, golden brown cakes or cones, and if relatively fresh, is easy to grate or chop. Once the package is opened, use
panela
as soon as possible, as it will start slowly to dry out and become more difficult to grate. Dried-out
panela
, if not a little hard, is still perfectly fine for melting for use in syrups or drinks.
 
Dried and ground or precooked corn flours
, commonly known as
masa harina
or
masarepa
, are absolutely essential if you want to make homemade tortillas, tamales, arepas, and so many more uniquely Latin American “breads.” Previous generations of Latinos made masa harinas by grinding prepared dried corn by hand on stone or wood. These days, if you have a lot of time on your hands, you could try that, too, but if you’re wondering if it’s hard, thankless work, then yes,
amiga
, it certainly is! Fortunately, packaged Mexican-style masa harina and Colombia/Venezuelan-style
masarepa
flour is widely available.
 
 
 
These Are a Few of My Favorite Beans
 
T
o love Latin cuisine is to get to know the bean better. Each region has its favorite “hero” bean, usually complemented by a few runners-up, but I think each bean is a superstar and should get equal plate time. Next time you take a visit to your local Latin market, pick up a bag of your favorite bean
and
a brand-new bean to try. Sometimes I even soak and cook two separate bean batches at a time if I’m anticipating a week or two of bean-centric eating. Anytime you find an intriguing bean, just swap it for a basic batch of cooked beans, pair it with rice, or use it in a soup. Beans encourage experimentation!
 
If you’re at a grocer with a big Latin selection, you may find some of the more uncommon “ethnic” beans available in canned form, too. Usually they are not organic, but these are a good choice if you want to try out a new bean but don’t want to commit to soaking and cooking a whole batch. If you can buy organic—pintos, black, and garbanzo are all fairly common organic choices now—do so, as they tend to taste better and some brands also use much less salt than nonorganic brands do.
 
 
All-Purpose Beans, Good for Any Cuisine or Meal
 
Pinto (very Mexican/American Southwest)
 
Garbanzo
 
Black (essential for Cuban, Venezuelan, and Brazilian dishes)
 
Red kidney
 
White kidney (cannellini)
 
Pink beans
 
 
Specialty Beans, for Variety and Extra Specialness
 
Cargamanto, Roman, or cranberry bean (Colombian and Caribbean, with rice or refried)
 
Bola roja, a large round red bean (Colombian, with rice)
 
Dominican red, similar to red kidney (Dominican, rice ’n’ beans)
 
Canary, a creamy yellow bean (Peruvian, rice ’n’ beans, soup)
 
Salvadorian/Central American red, small red beans (
gallo pinto
, rice ’n’ beans)
 
Pigeon peas (Puerto Rican rice ’n’ beans,
arroz con gandules
)
 
Giant or small lima/butter beans (Peruvian, soups and salads)
 
 
 
“Mexican”-style masa harina flour is made with corn first treated with lime water (a process called
nixtamalization
. . . try that one in your next Scrabble game), hulled, dried then ground into a fine flour. All of that work makes the nutrients in the corn more accessible and gives masa harina its characteristic delectable aroma and flavor.
Instant masa harina
is the most common and widely available variety—it’s typically sold in 5-pound paper sacks and specifically labeled “for tortillas, tamales,
pupusas
,
sopes
. . . .” It has a pale creamy color and a fine texture. Fresh masa is highly revered by masa harina snobs, but like many things valued by snobs it may be difficult to obtain (at least outside of Central America). MASECA is probably the easiest brand to find in the United States; Bob’s Red Mill also makes an excellent golden masa harina, too.
 
The other kind of precooked corn flour is
masarepa
, sometimes called by the brand name of Harina PAN or
harina para arepas
. Got all that? Don’t worry, just look for “arepa” on the bag and you likely have the right thing. This special corn flour is used almost exclusively in Colombia and Venezuela and has a totally different character and taste from masa harina. Look for this in typically plastic, smaller 1- to 2½-pound bags. It comes in both white and yellow (no difference in flavor, though) and has a coarser texture that more closely resembles American-style cornmeal (but still it’s not the same!). This corn flour is made from corn kernels that have been cooked, hulled, dried, and then ground into a rough flour without the lime water soak.
If in doubt
, always check the bag to see where it’s imported from; it should be from either Colombia or Venezuela.
Mexican masa harina cannot be substituted for masarepa
(and vice versa). They taste completely different!

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