Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers (11 page)

SO GOOD, SO GREEN DIPPING SAUCE (GREEN AJÍ SAUCE)
 
 

Makes about 2 cups sauce

Time: Less than 10 minutes, not including chilling time
 
 
Green and mean, this fresh sassy sauce is a mainstay of Peruvian cuisine with any meal and hot snack foods. Generally known as
salsa ají
, it’s simultaneously cool, spicy, creamy, and herby. It’s ideal served up with root vegetables, or on most any baked or fried potato dish, and also great with fried or roasted protein foods, drizzled in a creamy winter squash soup, or as a dip for french fries, sweet potatoes, or yuca. Who would think all that from a salsa made with lettuce?
 
There are many of variations of this sauce, using regional green herbs or relying on dairy or eggy mayonnaise for the requisite creaminess. But we don’t need any of that for a great green sauce at home with traditional but easy-to-find fresh ingredients such as cilantro, onions, or green onions.
 
 
Tip:
Use any fresh green chiles you can find; serranos are a good choice. If you’re not used to cooking with green chiles blend a little piece at a time into the sauce to see what level of heat you’re comfortable with.
 
1 to 3 fresh green chiles, such as jalapeño
or serrano, seeds removed for less
heat, if desired
2 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
⅓ cup vegan mayonnaise
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons lime juice
¼ pound romaine lettuce (about ¼ of a
large head), thick base removed, leaves
chopped coarsely
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, lightly packed
3 whole green onions, trimmed and
chopped
¾ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 to 4 tablespoons water
 
 
1. In a food processor or blender, blend all of the ingredients except the water until smooth and creamy, stopping occasionally to scrape the sides of the processor bowl with a rubber spatula. Add a tablespoon of water at a time to thin the sauce to your desired consistency, if at all necessary. Taste the sauce and season with more lime juice or salt, if you like. Chill the sauce in a tightly covered container for 30 minutes or overnight before using. Keep chilled when not using.
GREEN ONION SALSA
 
 

Makes about ¾ cup

Time: Less than 10 minutes

Soy Free
 
 
A fresh, tangy
salsita
typically associated with empanadas in Colombia but just as well used with beans, tofu, or seitan for a blast of zippy green onion flavor. It tastes best if given an hour or more to mellow and let the flavors blend.
 
1 large bunch green onions (about
4 ounces), trimmed and chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, packed
¼ cup white or rice vinegar
¼ cup lime juice
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
 
 
1. Pulse all the ingredients together in a food processor to form a slightly chunky salsa. Chill or let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes prior to serving, to allow the flavors to blend. This salsa looks best served the day it’s made and will darken somewhat the next day but still taste great.
PINE NUT CREMA
 
 

Makes about 1½ cups
crema

Time: Less than 10 minutes, not including baking time

Gluten Free
 
 
This pine nut-based
crema
is the sauce you will go to again and again when a rich and cheeselike baked topping is what you crave. It’s ideal on top of casseroles such as enchiladas, especially Potato-Chickpea Enchiladas with Green Tomatillo Sauce (page 40). The longer this sauce bakes, the better it gets, with a firm top “crust” and a creamy dairylike center. For an appealing browned crust, try broiling just before serving.
 
12 ounces soft silken tofu
½cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 clove garlic, grated
1 teaspoon salt
 
 
1. In a blender jar, pulse together the tofu, pine nuts, lime juice, olive oil, cornstarch, garlic, and salt until smooth and creamy, scraping down the mixture several times with a rubber spatula. Taste and adjust the flavor with more salt and lime juice if desired.
2. To use the
crema
, spread evenly on top of casseroles prior to baking. Pine Nut Crema sets up best when allowed to bake, uncovered, for at least 30 minutes at 350°F. The longer it bakes, the more golden and slightly browned its surface will become. Baked
crema
will continue to firm as it cools. If desired, broil on high for an additional 4 to 6 minutes, until it develops golden brown spots.
RED CHILE SAUCE
 
 

Makes about 3½cups sauce

Time: About 25 minutes

Gluten Free, Soy Free
 
 
If you’ve ever looked at a big bag of dried chile peppers and wondered what in blazes to
do
with it, then this sauce is for you. This is a smooth sauce with heat that ranges from gently piquant to blistering, depending on what chiles are used. My all-time favorite Mexican chile, the sweet, smoky, and mildly spicy ancho, gets top billing here. Or get crazy and use a blend of ancho plus others, such as pasilla, costeño, any kind of chipotle, or guajillo chiles, for a hot and nuanced sauce. There no end to the chiles you can try in this basic sauce that goes with well with beans, rice, enchiladas, or on top of tamales.
 
Tip:
For more information on choosing and handling dried chiles, see the tip box on page 15 in the Pantry section.
 
3 to 4 ounces dried ancho chiles,
or a mix of any dried red Mexican chile
(such as pasilla, guajillo, costeño,
chile de arbol)
2 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 teaspoon dried oregano, Mexican
oregano, or epazote
½teaspoon ground cumin
1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 cups vegetable broth
½teaspoon salt, or to taste
 
 
1. In a large saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Have ready a medium-size glass or metal heat-resistant bowl.
2. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. While the skillet is heating, slice open the dried chiles, remove the stems and seeds, and open the chiles so that they can be easily flattened when pressed with a spatula. (Wear gloves when handling hot chiles, or embrace a little pain.) Place the chiles in the heated skillet and use a metal spatula to press and flip them frequently to toast, about 1 minute. Watch the chiles carefully to prevent them from burning. Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the chiles to the heat-resistant bowl. Pour the boiling water over the chiles and set aside for 10 minutes, to allow the chiles to soften. Drain the water from the chiles (this removes any overly bitter flavors from some dried chiles).
3. In a large saucepan, combine the oil, diced onion, and chopped garlic. Heat the pan over medium heat, stirring garlic frequently for about 1 minute until sizzling and fragrant. Stir in the oregano and cumin, then pour in the softened chiles, tomato sauce, and vegetable broth, and simmer for 1 minute. Either use an immersion blender or pour into a blender jar, and puree the mixture to create a smooth sauce. (Return to the saucepan if the blender jar is used.) Bring the pureed mixture to a simmer over medium heat and, stirring frequently, cook for about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve.
SIMPLE LATIN TOMATO SAUCE
 
 

Makes about 2½cups sauce

Time: About 20 minutes

Gluten Free, Soy Free
 
 
This is a very simple tomato sauce, perfect to serve alongside
pupusas
, tamales,
sopes
, or grilled seitan with rice and beans. Unlike Italian-style sauces, Latin-style tomato sauces are cooked just enough to keep the texture light and flavors fresh tasting. Typically, these sauces are pureed until smooth, but you can leave this one chunky if you prefer. Try experimenting with different kinds of canned tomatoes for different textures. This recipe does not make a ton of sauce; rather, a nice amount to serve as a condiment—but go ahead and double or triple it if you’re in need of tomato sauce for a crowd.
 
1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ pound yellow onion, diced small
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ cup vegetable broth, white wine, or
water
1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce, crushed
tomatoes, or diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon lime juice
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
 
 
1. In a medium-size saucepan, combine the olive oil and garlic and heat over medium heat until the garlic starts to sizzle, about 30 seconds. Add the onion and fry for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to turn golden and transparent. Stir in the oregano and cumin and fry for another 30 seconds. Add the vegetable broth to deglaze the pan; simmer for 1 minute. Add the tomato sauce and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and lime juice and remove from the heat. If desired, puree the sauce with an immersion blender until smooth, or leave as is.
Variation
 
Zesty Chipotle Sauce:
This is easy and so good on tamales or with Amaranth Polenta with Roasted Chiles (page 128), with delicious chipotle flavor and a touch of chile heat. Simply stir in one 7-ounce can of prepared Mexican chipotle sauce (not whole chi - potles in adobo, but the pureed, flavored tomato sauce), along with the diced tomatoes.
 
CLASSIC ROASTED TOMATILLO SALSA
 
 

Makes about 3½ cups salsa

Time: About 20 minutes

Gluten Free, Soy Free
 
 
So easy and so outrageously fresh you may never want to be seen with a jar of store-bought tomatillo salsa again. This smoky green salsa keeps well in the fridge for a week or more and is perfect for tortilla chips or tacos or dolloped on a sandwich. If ever you needed an excuse for a never-ending supply of fresh tomatillos, here it is!
 
 
Tip:
Only canned tomatillos? Broil the other vegetables, then blend with the canned to matillos with their juices as directed.
 
1 pound fresh tomatillos
3 to 4 serrano chiles, stemmed and seeded
(use jalapeños if you can’t find serranos)
4 cloves garlic
1 small white onion, chopped coarsely
2 green onions, separated into their white
and green parts
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, lightly packed
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons water, or more as needed
 
 
1. Remove the papery husks from the tomatillos, place in a large bowl, and cover with warm water. Slosh the tomatillos around for a few minutes to remove their sticky, waxy coating. Drain and pat dry.

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