Sunday Roasts (19 page)

Blue cheese adds a distinctive flavoring to this dish of sautéed fresh spinach. Half of the cheese is stirred right into the frying pan and melts to form a delectable sauce for the greens. The remainder is crumbled and used along with chopped hazelnuts as a garnish. Goat cheese can be substituted for the blue with delicious results.

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 5 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 15 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

18 oz/495 g pre-washed fresh baby spinach

3 oz/90 g blue cheese, crumbled, or creamy goat cheese (see market note)

Kosher salt (optional)

4 tsp coarsely chopped hazelnuts

1.
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy frying pan set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add one-third of the spinach and stir constantly until the spinach begins to wilt. Add another third and stir again until it wilts, then repeat with the remaining spinach. This whole process should take about 4 minutes. (The spinach can be sautéed 30 minutes ahead; leave uncovered at room temperature. Reheat over medium heat until hot.)

2.
Remove from the heat, and if any liquid has accumulated in the pan, carefully pour it off and discard. Add half of the cheese to the spinach, and stir a few seconds just until the cheese begins to melt. Taste and season with salt. Divide the spinach into 4 servings and garnish each with a sprinkle of the remaining blue cheese and the chopped hazelnuts.

MARKET NOTE
: If using blue cheese, Bleu d’Auvergne works particularly well. If using goat cheese, a creamy variety is the best choice.

SERVE WITH
: Try this spinach with Roast Veal with Tarragon-Mustard Butter , or use goat cheese in place of the blue cheese and serve it with Boneless Leg of Lamb with Tomato-Olive Relish .

For a recipe that calls for only four ingredients, including oil and sea salt, this dish delivers great flavor and requires just a small investment of your time. Because of their simplicity, the peas are also incredibly versatile. Talented young cook Kirsten Wilson shared this inventive recipe with me.

Serves 6

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 15 minutes

1 lb/455 g sugar snap peas, trimmed

1 tbsp olive oil

Fleur de sel

1 to 2 tbsp minced chives (optional)

1.
Arrange a rack 4 to 5 in/10 to 12 cm from the broiler/grill and preheat the oven to broil/grill. Line a large, heavy baking sheet/tray with foil.

2.
Place the peas on the baking sheet/tray and toss with the oil, and then spread them in a single layer.

3.
Place the peas under the broiler/grill and broil/grill for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and turn the peas over with a metal spatula. Return the pan to the oven and broil/grill for about 2 minutes longer, until the peas are just lightly charred. Transfer the peas to a serving bowl and sprinkle them with fleur de sel (about ½ tsp or less). Garnish the sugar snaps with minced chives, if desired.

SERVE WITH
: These peas can be served with all manner of roasts. Try them with Cumin-Rubbed Pork Tenderloins with Fresh Peach Salsa ; with Ham Roasted with White Wine, Shallots, and Carrots ; or with Sesame-Coated Tuna Steaks with Orange-Sherry Mayo .

A colorful quartet of spring vegetables--turnips, carrots, peas, and sugar snaps—are quickly blanched, then tossed in a flavorful butter scented with tarragon and mint. The butter can be prepared a day ahead, and the vegetables blanched an hour in advance so that all that is necessary at serving time is a quick assembly and reheating.

Serves 8

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes, including making the butter

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 35 minutes

Kosher salt

2 cups/340 g sliced carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into slices 1/8 in/3 mm thick

2 cups/340 g diced white turnips, peeled and cut into ½-in/12-mm cubes

2 cups/225 g sugar snap peas, ends trimmed

2 cups/305 g shelled fresh peas or frozen peas, defrosted

½ recipe Spring-Herbs Butter

2 tsp minced fresh tarragon

2 tsp minced fresh mint

Fleur de sel

1.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the carrots and turnips; cook for 2 minutes. Add the sugar snaps and if you are using them, the fresh peas; cook until all the vegetables are tender, for about 2 minutes or more.

2.
Drain the vegetables and return them to the same pot. If you are using defrosted frozen peas, stir them in. (The vegetables can be prepared 1 hour ahead; let rest at room temperature.)

3.
Stir the Spring-Herbs Butter, tarragon, and mint into the vegetables and place the pot over low heat. Heat, stirring, until the butter has melted and the vegetables are heated through, for about 2 minutes. Season the vegetables with fleur de sel and mound in a serving bowl.

SERVE WITH
: This dish makes an outstanding garnish to Orange-Studded Leg of Lamb , especially since both are prepared with the same herbed butter. These vegetables would also make a tempting side to Ham with an Orange Marmalade Glaze and Rhubarb Chutney .

When I was growing up, my mother prepared green beans only one way. She simmered them slowly in a big pot of water with onions and a hint of bacon drippings. Imbued with the flavor of onions and pork, these beans tasted great, but their army-fatigue green hue as well as the grayish tint of the onions left something to be desired. In the following recipe, the same flavoring principles apply—tender green beans are paired with shallots, another member of the onion family. However, these beans, blanched for only a few minutes until tender, retain their deep, verdant color. The shallots, sautéed in butter until they are a rich caramel brown, make a lovely visual contrast.

Serves 8

COST
: Inexpensive to Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 45 minutes

1 lb/455 g shallots

2 tbsp unsalted butter

2 tbsp olive oil

¼ tsp dried thyme leaves

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 lb/910 g tender green beans, preferably haricots verts, trimmed (see market note)

Fleur de sel (optional)

1.
Cut off and discard the ends of each shallot. Halve lengthwise and, using a sharp paring knife, peel the skins from the shallots. If the shallots are large, quarter them lengthwise.

2.
In a large, heavy frying pan, heat the butter and oil over medium-high heat until the butter is melted. When hot, add the shallots and stir a few seconds to coat well. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook the shallots, stirring frequently, until they are nicely browned, translucent, and tender, for 20 to 25 minutes; watch carefully so they do not burn. Season the shallots with thyme, ¼ tsp kosher salt, and several grinds of pepper. (The shallots can be prepared 4 hours ahead. Leave at cool room temperature and cover loosely with foil. Reheat over low heat, stirring.)

3.
Cook the green beans in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, for 4 to 6 minutes, depending on size. Drain them in a colander and then season with salt and pepper. Mound the beans in a shallow serving bowl and spoon the shallots over them. If desired, sprinkle both with a little fleur de sel.

MARKET NOTE
: Haricots verts, the slim tender little green beans with the French name, are available in some supermarkets. If you can’t find them, tender young green beans are fine. Haricots verts need to be cooked only about 5 minutes, while tender young green beans will need a couple of minutes more.

SERVE WITH
: Try these with Standing Rib Roast with Porcini Mushroom Sauce , Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey , “Never Fail” Roast Turkey with Shallot Pan Gravy , or Crown Roast of Pork with Tarragon-Mustard Butter .

This corn bread takes 20 minutes to assemble and bake, and will yield 4 cups/220 g of crumbs. You need 2 cups/110 g for the stuffing; freeze the extra for future use.

Serves 6 as a side

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 5 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 20 minutes

4 tsp vegetable oil

2 large eggs

¾ cup/180 ml buttermilk

¾ tsp baking powder

¾ tsp kosher salt

¼ tsp baking soda/bicarbonate of soda

1 cup/140 g yellow cornmeal

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

2.
Pour the oil into an 8- or 9-in/20- to 23-cm cast iron or heavy, ovenproof frying pan. Place the pan in the oven to heat for 3 to 4 minutes.

3.
Whisk the eggs and buttermilk together in a large bowl. Whisk in the baking powder, salt, baking soda/bicarbonate of soda, and cornmeal. Remove the frying pan from the oven and carefully pour the hot oil into the batter. Whisk to combine. Pour the batter into the hot frying pan and bake until a tester comes out clean, for about 15 minutes.

4.
Cool the corn bread and then break into chunks. Process into coarse crumbs in a food processor.

SERVE (AS A SIDE) WITH
: This corn bread would be delicious with Racks of Pork with Apple Chutney or Roasted Beef Short Ribs in Barbecue Sauce .

In the summer when corn is so abundant that you see it piled high at roadside farm stands or tumbling out of bins at the supermarket, buy a few ears to make this vivid and easy side dish. Shaved kernels are sautéed with sweet onions until both are lightly caramelized, and then they are combined with bell peppers, chopped tomatoes, and fresh basil. Serve the corn straight from the frying pan or in a serving bowl.

Serves 4

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 40 minutes

3 tbsp unsalted butter

½ cup/65 g chopped sweet onion, such as Spanish or Vidalia

2 cups/290 g fresh corn kernels (cut from 3 to 4 ears)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup/65 g chopped orange or red bell pepper/capsicum

½ cup/55 g sugar snap peas, ends trimmed and halved crosswise on the diagonal

¾ cup/150 g chopped tomatoes, seeded and stemmed

2 tsp balsamic vinegar (optional)

¼ cup/10 g julienned fresh basil

1.
In a large, heavy frying pan (with a lid) set over medium heat, melt the butter until hot. Add the onion and sauté, stirring, until translucent, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the corn and sauté, stirring often, until both the corn and onion start to caramelize, for 4 to 5 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper.

2.
Stir in the bell pepper/capsicum and sugar snap peas, then cover the frying pan and cook until the peppers and peas just start to soften, for about 3 minutes.

3.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Taste the mixture, and if you want to it to have a sharper flavor, stir in the balsamic vinegar. Serve the corn in the frying pan or mound it in a shallow serving bowl, and sprinkle with basil.

SERVE WITH
: This corn would be delicious with Sesame-Coated Tuna Steaks with Orange-Sherry Mayo or Skewered Shrimp with Warm Citrus Butter .