Sunday Roasts (17 page)

You might think that the only way to cook skewered shrimp is to throw them on the grill or pop them under the broiler, but there is another alternative. As it turns out, roasting shrimp is incredibly easy and practically fail-proof. In the following recipe, extra-large shrimp are threaded on skewers, brushed with melted butter that is scented with orange and lemon, and then placed in the oven for only a few minutes. There’s no need to turn the shrimp as they roast to a rich rosy hue. For eating, the shrimp are dipped in more of the warm citrus butter.

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 25 minutes

MATERIALS
: Four 10-in/25-cm metal skewers, or wooden skewers that have been soaked in water for 30 minutes

6 tbsp/85 g unsalted butter, cut into small chunks

1 tsp grated orange zest, plus 1/3 cup/75 ml fresh orange juice

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

2 tsp toasted sesame oil

20 extra-large (16 to 20 count) shrimp/prawns, about 1 to 1¼ lb/455 to 570 g, peeled and deveined with tails left on

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp sesame seeds, toasted (see cooking tip)

1.
Place the butter, orange zest, orange juice, lemon juice, and sesame oil in a small nonreactive saucepan. Set over medium heat and stir until the butter has melted and the mixture is just warm. (The citrus butter can be prepared 2 hours ahead; cover and leave at room temperature. Reheat when ready to use.)

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

3.
Place 5 shrimp/prawns on each skewer and arrange the skewers on a baking sheet/tray. Remove ¼ cup/60 ml of the citrus butter and use it to brush the shrimp/prawns on both sides. Reserve the remaining butter to use as a dipping sauce. Salt and pepper the shrimp/prawns.

4.
Roast the shrimp/prawns until they are opaque, pink, and cooked all the way through, for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle the shrimp/prawns with sesame seeds. Divide the remaining butter among four small ramekins, and serve with the skewers.

SIDES
: Serve with Skillet Summer Corn and with tender green beans sprinkled with sea salt.

LEFTOVER TIP
: If you have any shrimp/prawns left over (highly unlikely!), add them to a green salad tossed in lemon juice and olive oil.

COOKING TIP
: To toast sesame seeds, place them in a medium frying pan set over medium heat. Stir until the seeds are golden brown, for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove and cool. Sesame seeds can be toasted 2 hours ahead. Leave at room temperature.

My son, a talented amateur cook, often calls to tell me about new recipes. During one such conversation, he couldn’t wait to describe these scallop gratins, which need only minutes to cook, and when done, are irresistible with crisp, golden crusts covering succulent morsels of seafood. I’ve made this dish countless times. I keep the recipe in a file labeled “fresh, fast, and fabulous!”

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes, including making the fresh bread crumbs

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 40 minutes

4 tbsp/8 g minced flat-leaf parsley

4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tbsp finely chopped shallots

4 tsp minced garlic (about 2 medium cloves)

1½ tsp grated lemon zest

Kosher salt

1½ tbsp olive oil

1½ cups/85 g fresh coarse bread crumbs made from a baguette or peasant loaf (see cooking tip)

1½ lb/680 g fresh sea scallops, side muscles removed

Freshly ground black pepper

1.
Combine the parsley, 3 tbsp of the butter, shallots, garlic, lemon zest, and ½ tsp salt in a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well with a fork or spoon to blend. (The butter can be made 1 day ahead. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

2.
Heat the oil in a medium, heavy frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add the bread crumbs and cook, stirring constantly, until they are crisp and a rich golden brown, for 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the bread crumbs to a dinner plate. (The bread crumbs can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Cover with plastic wrap/cling film and leave at room temperature.)

3.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

4.
Using some of the seasoned butter, grease the bottom and sides of four 4-in/10-cm round individual gratin or crème brûlée dishes. Divide the scallops evenly among the dishes, placing them so they fit tightly in a single layer in each dish. Pat one-fourth of the seasoned butter on top of each portion, pushing some of the butter down into the crevices between the scallops. Salt and pepper the scallops well. Divide the bread crumbs evenly and spread on top of the scallops in each dish. Cut the remaining 1 tbsp of unseasoned butter into cubes and dot each portion with them.

5.
Place the dishes on a baking sheet/tray and roast until the scallops are cooked through, for about 12 minutes. To check for doneness, gently pierce the bread-crumb layer with a small knife to see if the shellfish beneath are opaque.

6.
Serve immediately.

NOTE
: I have also used 1-cup/240-ml ramekins in place of gratin or crème brûlée dishes. They work well and the cooking time is the same, but the gratin dishes make a nicer presentation.

SIDES
: Serve these gratins with corn on the cob along with a salad of watercress and cucumber tossed in a vinaigrette.

LEFTOVER TIP
: If you should have any scallops left over, slice them into thin rounds and use them as a garnish for a creamy vegetable soup whose flavors are complementary to this shellfish, such as cream of asparagus, watercress, or carrot soup. The heat of the soup will warm the thinly sliced scallops.

You’ve decided on the roast, you’ve checked in with the butcher or the fishmonger, but you still haven't chosen the sides. Chances are you haven’t paid much attention to them. Ideally, side dishes should play supporting roles, complementing and enhancing the star attraction. In a pinch, plain buttered potatoes and a salad will certainly do, but with just a little extra effort you can produce even more tantalizing possibilities.

You don’t have to give up on potatoes. Just dress them up a little. Beef and pork roasts, in particular, partner beautifully with Golden Potato Gratin or with Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes and Five Variations. Both of these dishes can be prepared completely in advance. Yorkshire Pudding with Bacon and Sage is my favorite pairing with a standing rib roast. The two dishes are elegant, traditional, and hearty—all at once! For roast turkey and other fowl, Sourdough Dressing with Roasted Root Vegetables or Wild Rice with Roasted Grapes and Walnuts make delectable embellishments.

You’ll find a number of seasonal vegetable creations for both warm and cold weather on the following pages. Unique 5-Minute Roasted Sugar Snap Peas, fabulous Skillet Summer Corn, and colorful Zucchini and Tomato Gratin are bright and refreshing sides for spring and summer. In the fall and winter, try Honey-Glazed Carrots and Parsnips or Brussels Sprouts, Bacon, and Apples.

Far from being afterthoughts, side dishes should accentuate your roasts, highlighting their textures and flavors. There are more than a dozen recipes for inventive sides in this chapter—enough to give you plenty of choices, whatever you roast.

Nothing is a better match for a roast than mashed potatoes. Creamy, buttered spuds are the hands-down favorite side dish whether it’s roasted red meat, poultry, or fish. The classic mashed potatoes featured here are enriched by an unexpected but delicious addition of tender, sautéed leeks. Besides this basic recipe, there are five easy variations--enough to provide you with plenty of choices whenever a roast is on your menu.

Serves 4 to 6

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 30 to 35 minutes

2 lb/910 g Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-in/2.5-cm dice

Kosher salt

2 tbsp unsalted butter

2 cups/160 g finely chopped leeks, white and light green parts only (3 to 4 leeks)

½ cup/120 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

½ cup/120 ml whole milk, plus more if needed

Freshly ground black pepper

1½ tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley

1.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the potatoes and 1 tbsp salt. Cook until the potatoes are tender, for about 15 minutes.

2.
Meanwhile, prepare the leeks. Heat the butter in a medium, heavy frying pan over medium-low heat. When hot, add the leeks and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, for 4 to 5 minutes. Watch carefully and lower the heat if necessary. Add the broth and cook until almost all liquids have evaporated, for about 4 to 5 minutes or longer.

3.
When done, drain the potatoes and return them to their pot. Mash with a potato masher, then stir in the milk and leeks. Season with salt and pepper. Add more milk for creamier potatoes. Cover the potatoes to keep them warm for up to 20 minutes. (The potatoes can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Reheat over low heat, stirring constantly and adding a little extra milk if needed, until warm, or reheat them in a bowl in the microwave.) Mound the potatoes in a bowl and sprinkle them with parsley.

SERVE WITH
: These potatoes could accompany most of the roasts in this book, other than those dishes in which potatoes are cooked along with the roasts.

The variations pair well with specific main courses. For example, the Fennel and Tarragon version partners successfully with salmon and lamb, while the Blue Cheese variation is particularly good with beef. The Creamy Goat Cheese and Thyme and the Provencal Basil adaptations are excellent with many lamb and fish recipes. Finally, the Buttermilk-Country Mustard variation makes a fine side to roast pork and chicken.

Add 2 tsp crushed fennel seeds and replace the parsley with 1½ tbsp fresh minced tarragon.

Stir in 1/ 3 lb/155 g crumbled creamy blue cheese (at room temperature), such as Bleu d’Auvergne, when you add the leeks. For a stronger blue cheese taste, add more cheese.

Place the milk and ½ cup/25 g packed fresh torn basil leaves in a small saucepan set over medium heat. Stir ntil the leaves have wilted and the milk is warm, for only 1 to 2 minutes. Puree this mixture in a food processor until the basil is minced, then stir into the potatoes. Omit the parsley in the original recipe.