Sunday Roasts (7 page)

This boneless pork loin roast bursts with vibrant flavors, is not complicated to prepare, and needs less than an hour in the oven. Studded with garlic slivers, quickly browned, then brushed with a glaze made with balsamic vinegar, orange marmalade, and mustard, the meat is roasted along with fennel and potato wedges. When done, the pork has a deep mahogany hue and the vegetables are slightly crisp and golden around the edges. A quick sauce is assembled using the pan juices and some additional glaze.

Serves 6

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 30 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

One 2½-lb/1.2-kg center cut boneless pork loin, trimmed and tied

3 large garlic cloves, peeled and cut into thin slivers

3 medium fennel bulbs (about 2 lb/910 g total)

1 lb/455 g small Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled

4 tbsp/60 ml olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

3 tbsp orange marmalade

1 tbsp fresh orange juice

1 tsp Dijon mustard

2 tbsp unsalted butter

1½ tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Thin orange slices, for garnish (optional)

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

2.
Using a sharp paring knife, make slits over the entire surface of the pork and insert the garlic slivers.

3.
Cut off and discard the lacy stems from the fennel bulbs. Cut and discard a slice from the bases, then halve the bulbs lengthwise and cut out and discard the tough triangular cores in each half. Slice each half lengthwise into ½-in-/12-mm-thick wedges. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and then cut lengthwise into ½-in-/12-mm-thick wedges. Place a large, flameproof roasting pan/tray over 1 or 2 burners on medium-high heat and add 2 tbsp of the oil. When hot, add the fennel and potatoes and sauté, stirring, to soften just slightly, for about 5 minutes. Remove the vegetables and set aside.

4.
Heat the remaining 2 tbsp of oil in the roasting pan/tray until hot. Add the pork and brown well on all sides, for 6 to 8 minutes. Scatter the vegetables evenly around the roast and generously salt and pepper the roast and vegetables.

5.
In a bowl, whisk together the vinegar, marmalade, orange juice, and mustard. Remove 2 to 3 tbsp of this mixture and brush it on the top and sides of the roast.

6.
Roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 150°F/65°C and the vegetables are browned and tender, for 40 to 45 minutes or longer. Stir the vegetables every 10 minutes while roasting.

7.
Remove the pork to a carving board and the vegetables to a platter. Brush the meat with 1 to 2 tsp of the glaze. Tent the meat and the vegetables with foil; let rest for 15 minutes.

8.
For the sauce, skim and discard any fat in the roasting pan/tray. Then add the butter and remaining glaze mixture to the pan/tray. Place the pan/tray over medium-high heat and bring the mixture a simmer. Cook until slightly thickened, for 2 to 3 minutes.

9.
To serve, slice the pork and arrange on a platter surrounded by the potatoes and fennel. Sprinkle both with parsley. If desired, garnish the pork with some orange slices.

SIDES
: Since this pork is roasted with potatoes and fennel, you will not have to worry about accompaniments.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Stir-fry thinly sliced strips of leftover pork with sliced vegetables and season them with minced ginger and soy sauce.

What could be more impressive than a crown roast of pork when you want an extra-special main course for a crowd? Although you might think that this roast, which serves 16, requires advanced culinary skills, it’s actually uncomplicated to prepare. Two tips will ensure success. First, this roast is always a special order so it’s helpful to understand that the butcher will be tying two racks of pork together to form a crown when he or she prepares it. Second, because this roast spends a long time in the oven, the meat needs to be basted often with the seasoned butter to keep it moist. Follow these two guidelines, and you’ll bring a show stopping roast to the table!

Serves 16, with one chop each

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes, including making the butter

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, 45 minutes, to 3 hours, 15 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

A double recipe of Tarragon-Mustard Butter

1 crown roast of pork with 16 ribs, about 8 lb/3.6 kg total (see market note)

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and cut into thin slivers

1/3 cup/75 ml crème fraîche

½ cup/120 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 bunch fresh tarragon, for garnish (optional)

1.
Divide the butter evenly between two bowls. Cover and refrigerate one bowl; set the other aside at room temperature for basting the pork.

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

3.
Using a sharp paring knife, make slits over the entire surface of the pork and insert the garlic slivers. Stand the roast on a rack in a large roasting pan/tray. Brush one-third of the room-temperature butter over the meat. Cover the bone tips with foil.

4.
If you have a soufflé dish that is just slightly smaller than the cavity of the roast, place it in the center to help the roast hold its shape as it cooks. Do not worry if you don’t have one as the pork can be roasted without it. Roast the pork until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the center of the roast registers 150 to 155°F/65 to 68°C, for 2 to 2½ hours. Watch carefully as the cooking time can vary depending on the size of the roast (see cooking tip). Brush the roast with some of the butter every 20 minutes.

5.
Transfer the roast to a platter, tent it loosely with foil, and let rest for 25 minutes before carving.

6.
Meanwhile, with an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the chilled butter until smooth and creamy, then whisk in the crème fraîche until just incorporated. Transfer to a serving bowl.

7.
Skim off and discard any fat in the roasting pan/tray. Place the pan over 1 to 2 burners on medium-high heat; add the broth and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits into the liquids. Cook for only 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer the sauce (which will be quite thin) to a serving bowl.

8.
If using the soufflé dish, remove with potholders from the center of the roast. Discard the foil on the bone tips. If desired, garnish the roast with several bouquets of tarragon. To serve, slice the roast into chops and top each with pan juices and with a dollop of the whipped butter.

SIDES
: For an impressive appearance, fill the cavity of the roast with a double or triple recipe of Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes or with Wild Rice with Roasted Grapes and Walnuts . Add some tender green beans tossed in butter and sprinkled with fleur de sel to complete the menu.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Extra chops can be reheated and topped with leftover Tarragon-Mustard Butter. Heat the chops in a microwave just to warm and enjoy with a green salad.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask the butcher to tie together two racks with 8 ribs each (each rack should be about 4 lb/1.8 kg) to form the crown roast. You should have about 8 lb/3.6 kg total, but the weight can vary depending on the size of racks available. Also make certain that the butcher removes the feather and chine bones so that you will be able to slice the rack into individual chops. The racks should be frenched, which means that all the meat between the rib bones is trimmed away for a neat appearance.

COOKING TIP
: The most important element in cooking this roast is getting the pork to the correct internal temperature. any other variables (especially the weight and size of the racks) affect the cooking time. In an effort to get the correct temperature, always place the thermometer in the center of this roast (inside the bones). That area takes the longest to cook.

I grew up in the American South, where pulled pork barbecue sandwiches were at the top of the food pyramid. My parents thought nothing of driving well over an hour to indulge in the best pulled pork in the region. The pork featured here could easily rival those of my youth. A boneless shoulder is rubbed with a handful of seasonings, and then roasted slow and low until it is so tender it can be “pulled” apart with table forks. When ready to serve, you mound the pork atop soft hamburger buns, then slather on the simple homemade barbecue sauce and some cole slaw, if desired.

Makes 12 large sandwiches

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 1 hour, 15 minutes, including making the barbecue sauce

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 8 to 11 hours

One 4½-lb/2-kg boneless pork shoulder (also called a Boston butt), tied

2 tbsp chili powder

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tsp light brown sugar

½ tsp onion powder

Pinch cayenne pepper

12 hamburger buns

Homemade Barbecue Sauce

1.
Pat the pork dry with paper towels/absorbent paper and place on a work surface. Combine the chili powder, cumin, brown sugar, onion powder, and cayenne. Rub the spice mixture over all surfaces of the roast. Wrap the roast in plastic wrap/cling film and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to 8 hours.

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 300°F/150°C/gas 2.

3.
Remove the plastic wrap/cling film and place the pork on a rack in a roasting pan/tray that is large enough to hold it comfortably.

4.
Roast until you can pierce all surfaces of the pork very easily with a sharp knife and a thermometer registers 190°F/88°C when inserted into the thickest part of the roast, for 4 to 4¼ hours. Remove the roast from the oven and let rest for 20 minutes.

5.
Using two table forks, “pull” the pork into shreds. (The pork can be prepared 2 days ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet/tray, sprinkle lightly with a little water, cover with foil, and reheat in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 oven until warm, about 20 minutes.)

6.
Serve the pork mounded on hamburger buns and drizzled generously with Homemade Barbecue Sauce. Pass extra sauce separately.

SIDES
: Cole slaw and baked beans are favorite sides for these sandwiches, and Skillet Summer Corn would also make a fine addition.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Both the pork and the barbecue sauce freeze well. Pack each separately, and you’ll have the makings for these sandwiches on hand whenever you crave real Southern barbecue.

Plenty of cooks have made racks of lamb, but few have indulged in succulent racks of pork. The latter make an impressive presentation and are quite reasonably priced. In the following recipe, pork racks are brushed with curry oil (a simple combo of olive oil and curry powder) and roasted on a bed of onion wedges. When done, these dark golden racks are served with their bones intertwined, surrounded by the slightly charred onions and accompanied by homemade apple chutney. When sliced, the pork yields extra-large chops.

Serves 10

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 1 hour, 15 minutes, including making the chutney

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 4 hours, 15 minutes, including resting time for the cooked meat

½ cup/120 ml olive oil

4 tsp curry powder

2 racks of pork with 5 ribs each, about 3 lb/1.4 kg per rack (see market note)

1½ lb/680 g medium red onions

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Apple Chutney

1.
In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and curry powder. Brush all surfaces of the pork with half of the oil mixture; reserve the remaining oil. Let racks rest at cool room temperature for 1½ hours.

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

3.
Peel the onions and cut them into 1-in/2.5-cm thick wedges, leaving root ends intact. Salt and pepper the racks of pork on all sides.

4.
Set a large, heavy, flameproof roasting pan/tray over 1 or 2 burners on medium-high heat. When hot, add one rack, fat-side down, and brown on all sides, for about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove and repeat with the remaining rack. Return the racks to the roasting pan/tray and arrange them facing each other with the bone ends pointing up, fat-sides out, and the bones intertwined. Scatter the onions around the pork and toss with the reserved curry oil.

5.
Roast the pork until a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the racks registers 150°F/65°C and the onions are softened and browned around the edges, for about 1 hour.

6.
Remove the racks from the pan, arrange them with the bones intertwined on a platter, and surround with the onions. Cover the racks and onions loosely with foil and let rest for 20 minutes.

7.
When ready to serve, slice the racks into chops (which will be extra-large), sprinkle each with some salt, and top with some Apple Chutney. Garnish with a few onions.

SIDES
: Serve the racks with Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes and Honey-Glazed Carrots and Parsnips or try them with Wild Rice with Roasted Grapes and Walnuts and blanched green beans dusted with fleur de sel.

LEFTOVER TIP
: For a great sandwich, thinly slice any remaining pork and mound on baguette or sourdough slices. Spoon some chutney on top of the pork and add some shaved white cheddar.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask the butcher to prepare the racks by removing the feather and chine bones so that you will be able to slice the racks into individual chops. Also ask the butcher to french the racks, which means that the meat between the rib bones is trimmed away for a neat appearance. A thin layer of fat should cover the exterior of the ribs to keep the meat beneath moist as it roasts, but other excess fat should be trimmed.