Sunday Roasts (6 page)

As a young, fledging cook, I often turned to my Southern family’s recipes for inspiration, but when it came to pork, I had to look elsewhere. The simple fact is that today’s pork is quite different from the meat that was available to an older generation of cooks.

First, it is bred to be leaner, and this requires some significant adaptations to ensure a moist, succulent roast. In the recipes that follow you will be urged to baste frequently so that the meat does not dry out. Second, today’s pork does not need to be cooked to those high internal temperatures of 170 to 180°F/77 to 82°C that used to be recommended for safety reasons. Most professional cooks agree that 150°F/65°C is perfect—the point at which pork roasts retain a slight blush of pink and are moist and flavorful.

This chapter reflects a breadth of choices when it comes to pork. From inexpensive shoulders and hams to premium tenderloins and racks, there are a variety of cuts that are suited for roasting and readily available at meat counters. One of pork’s outstanding features is its versatility. You can pair it with fruits, herbs, spices, cheeses, and much more, so you will find some imaginative creations in this section. Pork Loin with a Blue Cheese Stuffing and Roasted Pears, Ham with an Orange Marmalade Glaze and Rhubarb Chutney, and Cumin-Rubbed Pork Tenderloins with Fresh Peach Salsa should whet your appetite. For showstopper entrees you can’t beat the glrious Crown Roast of Pork with Tarragon-Mustard Butter or the impressive Racks of Pork with Apple Chutney.

This is a splendid main course for special occasions. A platter with succulent slices of roasted pork tenderloin, napped with crimson-hued cranberry port sauce, makes a striking centerpiece for a holiday meal. The sauce can be cooked and the tenderloins seasoned with the herb rub a day ahead, so that all you’ll need to do before serving is to roast the pork for about 20 minutes.

Serves 8

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 45 minutes, including making the sauce

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 30 minutes, including resting time for the cooked meat

Cranberry–Port Wine Sauce

3 tbsp unsalted butter

2 cups/250 g chopped onions

4 medium garlic cloves, minced

3 tsp grated orange zest

1½ tsp dried sage leaves

1 tsp dried thyme

2 cups/480 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

1½ cups/360 ml cranberry juice cocktail (see market note)

2 cups (8 oz/225 g) fresh or frozen (defrosted) cranberries

½ cup/100 g sugar

¼ cup/60 ml Tawny port (see market note)

1 tbsp cornstarch/cornflour

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pork

4½ tsp dried thyme

1½ tsp kosher salt

1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Three 1-lb/455-g pork tenderloins, trimmed of excess fat

4 tbsp/60 ml vegetable oil

FOR THE WINE SAUCEM
:

1.
In a large, heavy frying pan set over medium-high heat, melt the butter and, when hot, add the onions. Sauté, stirring, until golden and softened, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, half of the orange zest, sage, and thyme and stir 1 minute. Add the broth and cranberry juice and simmer until the mixture has reduced to 2½ cups/600 ml, for about 8 minutes.

2.
Strain the sauce into a heavy, medium saucepan, pressing down on the solids with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible; discard the solids. Place the saucepan over medium heat and stir in the cranberries and sugar. Bring to a boil and cook just until the cranberries pop, for about 5 minutes.

3.
In a small bowl, whisk together the port and cornstarch/cornflour to form a paste. Add to the sauce and stir until the sauce thickens, for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. (Cranberry port sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate.)

FOR THE PORK
:

1.
Mix together the thyme, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Pat the tenderloins dry with paper towels/absorbent paper, then brush them with 2 tbsp of the oil. Rub the herb mixture over the tenderloins. (The pork can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

3.
Heat the remaining oil in a large, heavy, flameproof roasting pan/tray set over 1 to 2 burners on high heat. When the oil is hot, add the tenderloins and brown on all sides, for 5 minutes. Roast the pork until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 150°F/65°C, for about 20 minutes. Transfer the pork to a carving board, tent with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes.

4.
Skim off and discard any fat in the roasting pan/tray. Add the wine sauce and the remaining orange zest and set the pan/tray over 1 to 2 burners on high heat and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently.

5.
To serve, cut the pork into diagonal slices ½ in/12 mm thick and drizzle with some sauce. Pass extra sauce separately.

SIDES
: Serve this roast with some creamy polenta seasoned with grated Gruyère cheese and Brussels sprouts sautéed with garlic. For a holiday menu, offer the Wild Rice with Roasted Grapes and Walnuts and tender green beans.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Slices of this tenderloin are delicious simply warmed up with some of the sauce. You could also use the pork in a sandwich. Use sourdough bread slices or a crusty baguette and top with leftover pork, sliced white cheddar, and some of the sauce, brought to room temperature.

MARKET NOTE
: Cranberry juice cocktail is available in the juice aisle of the supermarket.

When temperatures soar and you are looking for a quick, easy, and cooling main course, these tenderloins are the answer. The pork needs only about 20 minutes in the oven, and the colorful, bracing salsa can be assembled in just a few minutes.

Serves 4 to 5

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes, including making the salsa

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, including resting time for cooked meat

2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

2 pork tenderloins, about 1 lb/455 g each, trimmed of excess fat

Olive oil for sautéing

Fleur de sel (optional)

Fresh Peach Salsa

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

2.
In a small bowl, mix together the cumin, salt, and pepper. Rub this mixture over all the surfaces of the tenderloins. Add enough oil to coat the bottom of a large, heavy, ovenproof frying pan and set it over medium-high heat until the oil is hot. Add the tenderloins and brown on all sides, for 5 minutes.

3.
Roast the pork until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 150°F/65°C, for about 20 minutes. Remove the tenderloins to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes.

4.
To serve, slice the pork ½-in/12-mm thick and arrange, slightly overlapping, on a platter. If desired, sprinkle the slices lightly with fleur de sel. Spoon some peach salsa over the slices and pass any extra salsa in a bowl.

SIDES
: Couscous tossed with butter and minced chives and 5-Minute Roasted Sugar Snap Peas would make ideal sides to this main course.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Slices of this pork are just as good served cold as warm, especially when accompanied by some of the peach salsa. For a great sandwich, spread some mayo on lightly toasted whole-wheat bread, top with pork, then with salsa, and finally with a few baby spinach leaves.

Natural partners, blue cheese and pears can be used inventively to turn an ordinary pork loin into something extra-special. The cheese finds its way into the herbed bread stuffing, which is packed compactly into the center of this boneless roast. Quartered pears, brushed with a balsamic glaze, roast alongside the meat. The pork slices with their delicious nuggets of stuffing are napped with a simple pan sauce and garnished with golden pear wedges.

Serves 6

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 30 minutes, including making the fresh bread crumbs

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 40 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

One 2½-lb/1.2-kg center-cut boneless pork loin, trimmed and tied

2 tbsp dried crushed rosemary (see cooking tip)

2 tbsp dried thyme leaves

1 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups/85 g fresh bread crumbs (see cooking tip)

1 cup/115 g crumbled blue cheese

3 tbsp plus 1 cup/240 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

4 to 5 tbsp/60 to 75 ml olive oil

3 tbsp balsamic vinegar

3 slightly under-ripe Bartlett/Williams or Bosc pears, unpeeled, quartered, and cored (keep stems on the pears if you like)

2 tbsp unsalted butter

Fresh rosemary and thyme sprigs, for garnish (optional)

1.
Using a long, narrow knife, insert the blade into the center of one end the pork and push the knife all the way through to the other end. Turn the knife to create a pocket about 1 in/2.5 cm in diameter all the way through the roast.

2.
Mix together the rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper. Put half of this mixture in a bowl with the bread crumbs and the cheese; reserve the rest.

3.
Using your fingers, rub together the bread crumb mixture (as you would for a crumble), and then stir in 2½ to 3 tbsp of the broth, just enough to moisten mixture. Using the end of a wooden spoon (or, if easier, your thumb), push the stuffing into the pocket to within ½ in/12 mm of each end. (It will seem as if you have too much stuffing, but it will be compacted as it is pushed into the cavity.) Pat the roast dry with paper towels/absorbent paper and rub the remaining seasoning mixture over the entire surface. (The roast can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

4.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

5.
In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 tbsp of the olive oil and 2 tbsp of the balsamic vinegar, then add the pears and toss to coat.

6.
In a large, flameproof roasting pan/tray, add the remaining 2 tbsp oil, or enough to lightly cover the bottom, and set the pan over 1 to 2 burners on medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, brown the pork on all sides, for 6 to 8 minutes. Place the pan in the oven and roast the pork for 10 minutes, and then scatter the pears, skin-sides up, around the meat. Roast for another 10 minutes, and then turn the meat and pears. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer registers 150°F/65°C when inserted into the thickest part of the meat and the pears are tender and golden, for 20 to 25 minutes longer. Remove the meat and pears to a cutting board; cover loosely with foil and let rest for 15 minutes. Remove and discard (or sample!) any loose stuffing from the pan. Skim off and discard any fat in the pan.

7.
Place the roasting pan/tray over high heat and add the remaining 1 cup/240 ml broth and remaining 1 tbsp vinegar; reduce the liquids by a third while scraping the bits on the bottom of the pan into the sauce. Swirl in the butter and season with additional salt if needed.

8.
To serve, slice the roast ¾ in/2 cm thick, removing the strings. Place the slices on a serving platter and garnish with the pears and, if desired, with fresh herbs. Drizzle the meat and pears with some pan sauce.

SIDES
: Honey-Glazed Carrots and Parsnips would make a colorful and tempting accompaniment for this roast.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Serve leftover slices as you would a pâté or terrine with some French cornichons and a good crusty baguette. A green salad tossed in a vinaigrette could round out the garnishes.

COOKING TIP
: To make coarse bread crumbs, use a good-quality peasant or country bread loaf that is 1 to 2 days old; sourdough works particularly well. Remove the crust and process large chunks of the bread in a food processor until you have 1½ cups.