Sunday Roasts (3 page)

There is nothing more enticing than the rich, complex smell of beef roasting in the oven. As a youngster, I remember listening to the crackle of fat as it slid from the meat into the roasting pan and knowing that dinner was at hand. Beef appeared on my family’s table regularly since my dad worked as an administrator at a large meat company. Often he surprised my mother with a beautifully cut roast that she transformed into a feast for family and company alike.

When it comes to beef roasts, the choices are many. For special occasions, I frequently turn to high-end cuts—those glorious standing rib roasts and smooth-as-velvet tenderloins. Fortunately, there are more modestly priced possibilities, like short ribs, chuck roasts, and boneless top sirloins. With the proper preparation, they too will be juicy and succulent and burst with flavor. Regardless of which cut you select, look for quality and buy the best you can afford. For beef there are two primary grades—”prime” and “choice.” The first is the best and most costly, and often reserved for restaurants. “Choice” meats also make excellent roasts and are the ones most of us pick up in the market. Look also for marbling, those white flecks of fat that run throughout the meat. This internal fat will melt into your roast as it cooks, keeping it luscious and tender.

In the pages that follow, you will find some of my favorite recipes for beef roasts. On days when you want to prepare a homey, family meal, try the Old-Fashioned Pot Roast and Vegetables with Extra-Rich Pan Gravy or Roasted Beef Short Ribs in Barbecue Sauce. For holidays and celebrations, there are plenty of enticing entries, including Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Shallots, Bacon, and Port, New York Strip Loin with Béarnaise Butter and Smashed Fingerlings, and the festive Standing Rib Roast with Porcini Mushroom Sauce. And for Sunday roasting, why not savor the Perfect Sunday Roast? A richly browned sirloin served with a simple pan sauce, surrounded by roasted red onions and mushrooms, this mouthwatering dish will bring smiles to everyone at your table.

This is my idea of comfort food at its best. An inexpensive cut—a boneless chuck roast—is rubbed with crushed rosemary, basil, and red pepper flakes for extra flavor, then pan-seared. Next, the roast is slowly cooked in the oven in an aromatic mixture of beef broth, red wine, tomatoes, and root vegetables. Some of the fork-tender cooked vegetables are pureed and whisked into the pan liquids to thicken the delicious gravy.

Serves 5 to 6

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 45 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
:

3 hours, 45 minutes

1 boneless chuck roast, 3½ to 3¾ lb/1.6 to 1.7 kg

1 tbsp dried crushed rosemary (see cooking tip)

1½ tsp dried basil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ tsp crushed red pepper flakes

3 tbsp olive oil

1½ cups/190 g halved and sliced onion

1 cup/140 g finely diced carrot (¼-in/6-mm cubes)

¾ cup/85 g finely diced celery (¼-in/6-mm cubes)

3 large garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

3 bay leaves, broken in half

One 28-oz/795-g can diced tomatoes, drained

3 cups/720 ml reduced-sodium beef broth

2 cups/480 ml dry red wine

½ cup/120 ml orange juice

2 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

2.
Pat the roast dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Combine rosemary, basil, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp black pepper, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl and rub on all sides of the roast. In a deep-sided, ovenproof pot (with a lid) set over medium, heat 2 tbsp of the oil. When hot, add the meat and brown well on all sides, for about 5 minutes. Remove the roast and set aside.

3.
In the same pot, heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil until hot over medium heat, and then add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are softened, for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute more. Add the bay leaves, tomatoes, broth, wine, and orange juice, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Return the meat to the pot; cover and roast in the oven until the meat is fork-tender, basting every 30 to 40 minutes with pan juices, about 2½ hours total.

4.
Remove the roast to a serving platter and cover loosely with foil. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Skim off any fat and discard. With a slotted spoon, remove 1 cup/255 g of the vegetables in the pot and puree in a food processor or blender. Return the pureed vegetables to the pot, and place it over high heat. Reduce the liquids by a third. If not serving immediately, return the roast to the pot. (The roast can be prepared 2 days ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat, covered, in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 preheated oven until the roast is heated through and the sauce is hot, for about 30 minutes.)

5.
To serve, cut the roast into slices ¼ in/6 mm thick and serve topped with pan sauce and a sprinkle of parsley.

SIDES
: Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes and your favorite mixed greens salad tossed in red wine vinaigrette.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Sliced leftover beef is delicious served atop a mound of buttered noodles with leftover sauce ladled over both.

COOKING TIP
: If you can’t find dried crushed rosemary, crush regular dried rosemary in an electric spice mill, or place it in a self-sealing plastic bag and roll over it with a rolling pin.

Studded with garlic and seasoned with a simple rub, this boneless top sirloin roast is browned, and then placed in the oven along with a separate tray of red onion wedges and creminis. When served, the rosy pink beef slices are drizzled with a pan sauce, topped with thin slices of blue cheese, and surrounded with roasted vegetables. This roast needs only about an hour in the oven, and when done, both the tender meat and slightly charred vegetables boast a deep and richly satisfying flavor.

Serves 6 to 8

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes for the roast, plus 15 minutes for the vegetables while the roast is in the oven

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 50 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

One 4-lb/1.8-kg boneless top sirloin roast (see market note)

5 medium garlic cloves, peeled and cut into very thin slivers

2 tsp dried thyme leaves

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tbsp plus ½ cup/120 ml olive oil, plus more for oiling the pans

3 medium red onions (about 1½ lb/680 g)

12 oz/340 g brown mushrooms such as creminis, cleaned and, if large, halved

1½ cups/360 ml reduced-sodium beef broth

¾ cup/180 ml dry red wine

1½ tbsp unsalted butter

1 bunch watercress

One 4-oz/115-g wedge of blue cheese

1.
Pat the roast dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Using a sharp paring knife, make slits over the entire surface of the roast and insert the garlic slivers. In a small bowl, mix together the thyme, 1½ tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper and 3 tbsp of the oil. Brush this mixture on all sides of the roast. (The roast can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before proceeding.)

2.
Arrange one rack at center position and another at a lower position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

3.
Lightly oil the bottom of a medium, flameproof roasting pan/tray and stand the roast, fat-side up, in the center of the pan (see cooking tip). Roast the meat for 15 minutes.

4.
While the meat is roasting, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Oil a large, rimmed baking sheet/tray generously. Peel the onions and cut them into wedges ¾ in/2 cm thick, leaving the root ends intact. Arrange the onions on half of the baking sheet/tray and the mushrooms on the other half and drizzle both with the remaining ½ cup/120 ml olive oil. Toss the vegetables lightly to coat well, adding more oil if necessary. Salt and pepper the vegetables.

5.
After the meat has roasted for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350°F/180°C/gas 4 and place the pan with the vegetables on the lower shelf. Continue to roast the beef until a thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 130 to 135°F/55 to 57°C, for 50 to 60 minutes. Roast the vegetables, stirring every 15 minutes, until slightly browned and charred around the edges, for 50 to 60 minutes.

6.
When done, transfer the roast to a cutting board and let rest for 20 minutes. If the vegetables are not done when the roast is, continue roasting a few minutes more, checking every 5 minutes, until done. Remove the vegetables and tent them with foil to keep warm.

7.
Skim off and discard any fat in the roasting pan/tray. Place the pan/tray over medium-high heat, and add the broth and wine. With a wire whisk, scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan into the liquids. Bring the mixture to a simmer, and reduce by half. Then swirl in the butter. Season with salt and pepper.

8.
Cut the roast, crosswise against the grain, into slices ¼ in/6 mm thick and arrange on a serving platter. Garnish the platter with bouquets of watercress and surround the meat with the onions and mushrooms. Drizzle the sliced meat with some sauce and pass extra separately. Top each serving with a thin slice of blue cheese.

SIDES
: Pair this roast with Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes , or the Golden Potato Gratin , and with Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots

LEFTOVER TIP
: Sliced leftover beef is delicious used in sandwiches made with good peasant bread or a baguette. Slather some Dijon mustard on the bread, top with leftover roast beef, crumble any remaining blue cheese over, and add some watercress sprigs or a few arugula/rocket or baby spinach leaves plus some sliced tomatoes.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask your butcher for a roast cut from the top portion of the sirloin. These are more tender and sometimes referred to as “spoon roasts.”

COOKING TIP
: This particular cut of beef sometimes tips over as it roasts. To prevent this, you might want to use a roasting rack with sides that you can adjust to steady the meat.

This tall, stately roast with its rich marbled flesh is definitely meant for special occasions. Brushed with olive oil and seasoned with rosemary and coarse pepper, this big roast needs a long time in the oven, but when it comes out you’ll be rewarded with exceptionally tender and flavorful meat. A glorious mushroom sauce, made with both dried porcini and fresh white mushrooms, can be partially prepared a day ahead and pairs exquisitely with the beef. For extra ease with carving, be sure to check the market note that follows the recipe.

Serves 8

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 4 hours, including resting time for cooked meat

1 standing rib roast with 4 ribs, about 8 to 9 lb/3.6 to 4 kg (see market note)

6½ tsp dried crushed rosemary (see cooking tip)

Kosher salt

Coarsely ground black pepper

½ cup/120 ml olive oil plus 2 tbsp

1½ oz dried porcini mushrooms

4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

10 oz/280 g white mushrooms, sliced ¼ in/6 mm thick

4 medium garlic cloves, minced

2 tbsp flour

1½ cups/360 ml reduced-sodium beef broth

¾ cup/180 ml dry red wine

2 bunches fresh rosemary for the garnish

1.
Place the roast, fat-side up, in a heavy, shallow roasting pan/tray. In a small bowl, mix together 4 tsp of the rosemary, 1 tbsp kosher salt, and 2 tsp pepper. Stir in the ½ cup/120 ml olive oil. Brush the roast on all sides, including the bottom, with this mixture. (The roast can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature for 45 minutes before roasting.)

2.
Put the dried mushrooms in a medium bowl and cover with 2 cups/480 ml boiling water. Let stand until the mushrooms are softened, for 20 minutes. Strain the mushrooms in a fine strainer over a small bowl, pressing down on them to release as much liquid as possible. You should get 1 cup/240 ml; if not, add enough water to make this amount. Reserve the soaking liquid and coarsely chop the porcini.

3.
Heat 2 tbsp of the butter and the remaining 2 tbsp olive oil in a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the white mushrooms and cook, stirring, until browned, for 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and chopped porcini and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Season with ½ tsp kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper.

4.
Combine the remaining 2 tbsp butter, remaining 2½ tsp rosemary, and flour in a small bowl and mash with a fork to make a paste. (The porcini soaking liquid, mushroom mixture, and butter-flour paste can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover separately and refrigerate.)

5.
Arrange a rack at lower position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

6.
Roast until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 125 to 130°F/52 to 55°C for meat that is rosy pink (medium-rare), for about 2 hours and 30 minutes.

7.
Transfer the roast to a serving platter and cover loosely with foil. Let rest for 35 to 40 minutes while you prepare the sauce. Skim and discard any fat from the pan juices (there will be a small amount of pan drippings); reserve the juices in pan.

8.
Set the roasting pan/tray over 2 burners on medium-high heat. Add the reserved porcini soaking liquid, the broth, and the wine. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly to scrape up any brown bits on the bottom and sides of the pan into the liquids, for about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushroom mixture and cook for 1 minute more. Whisk in the butter-flour mixture, a tablespoon at a time, and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens, for about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

9.
To serve, garnish the roast on the platter with several bouquets of rosemary. Slice the roast and pass the mushroom sauce in a separate bowl.

SIDES
: Yorkshire Pudding with Bacon and Sage and Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots are delectable accompaniments for this showstopper roast.

LEFTOVER TIP
: What could be better than a warm roast beef open-faced sandwich made with succulent slices of this roast? Toast bread slices (a good sourdough is particularly nice), then top with slices of roast, and finally nap with leftover sauce.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask the butcher to prepare an 8- to 9-lb/3.6- to 4-kg standing rib roast with 4 ribs. I usually request that the roast be “boned and tied.” What this means is that the butcher removes the back or chine bone from the rack, then cuts the meat off in one piece from the ribs and finally ties it back on to the bones, so that the roast has the exact same appearance as one that has not been boned. At serving time, it’s a breeze to slice the meat. The rib bones are still intact, but can be cut into individual servings for any guest who wants to nibble on one.