Sunday Roasts (10 page)

This dish boasts some of spring’s early harbingers—lamb, mint, and new potatoes. Beautiful racks (with their bones frenched so that they look particularly elegant) and small red potatoes are brushed with oil, mustard, and garlic, then roasted together. In place of traditional mint jelly, a fresh mint pesto accompanies the lamb.

Serves 8, with 2 chops each

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 30 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 15 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat while the potatoes finish roasting

Mint Pesto

2 cups/55 g packed fresh mint leaves

¾ cup/180 ml olive oil

¼ cup/60 ml fresh lemon juice

4 medium garlic cloves, peeled

1 tsp kosher salt

Scant ½ tsp red pepper flakes

Lamb and Potatoes

½ cup/120 ml olive oil, plus more as needed

6 medium garlic cloves, minced

2 tbsp Dijon mustard

1¾ lb/800 g small red new potatoes (1½ in/4 cm diameter), scrubbed and quartered (unpeeled)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 racks of lamb, 1½ lb/680 g each with 8 chops, trimmed and frenched (see market note)

Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish

FOR THE MINT PESTO
:

Place the mint leaves, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and red pepper flakes in a food processor or a blender. Process, pulsing machine on and off, for 45 seconds or longer until mint and garlic are finely minced and the mixture has a pesto-like consistency. Remove and set aside at cool room temperature. The pesto is best prepared no more than 1½ hours ahead for its color to remain bright green (see cooking tip). You should get about 1¼ cups/300 g.

FOR THE LAMB AND POTATOES:

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C/gas 7. Have ready a large, heavy, rimmed baking sheet/tray.

2.
Whisk together ½ cup/120 ml olive oil, garlic, and mustard in a small bowl. Transfer 1/3 cup/75 ml of this mixture to a large bowl and add the potatoes. Toss to coat well.

3.
Heat enough oil to lightly coat the bottom of a large frying pan set over medium-high heat. When quite hot, add 1 lamb rack, rounded-side down, and brown on that side only, for about 3 minutes. Remove and repeat with the other rack, adding more oil if needed. Let racks rest until cool enough to handle, for 10 minutes.

4.
Transfer the racks to the baking sheet/tray and arrange them facing each other with bone ends pointing up, browned-sides out, and bones intertwined. Scatter the potatoes around the lamb. Season both the lamb and potatoes generously with salt and pepper. Brush the lamb with the remaining mustard mixture on all sides.

5.
Roast the lamb and potatoes until a thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 130°F/55°C for mediumrare, for about 20 minutes. When the lamb is done, transfer to a platter with bones intertwined. Tent with foil and let rest for 15 minutes.

6.
Continue to roast the potatoes until cooked through and crisp, stirring once, for about 15 minutes longer.

7.
Surround the lamb with potatoes and garnish the platter with several bouquets of mint. Slice into chops, and serve with a bowl of the mint pesto.

SIDES
: This meat-and-potatoes dish could be served with blanched asparagus or snow peas/mangetout sprinkled with snipped chives. Or try it with a watercress and cucumber salad tossed in lemon juice and olive oil.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Extra chops make a nice cold lunch. Serve them at room temperature topped with some mint pesto and accompanied by toasted pita wedges. If you have any potatoes left, toss them in some vinaigrette and enjoy as a salad.

COOKING TIP
: Leftover pesto can be kept refrigerated for 3 to 4 days and will still taste delicious even though it will lose its bright green color.

This is an elegant yet simple way to prepare racks of lamb. Marinated in a classic combo of lemon, garlic, and olive oil, these racks are browned quickly and roasted until rosy pink inside. What makes this dish unusual are the interesting garnishes. Roasted cherry tomatoes and dollops of creamy whipped goat cheese seasoned with lemon and dill are perfect partners for the lamb.

Serves 8 with 2 chops each

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 1 hour, including making the Whipped Goat Cheese and marinating the lamb

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 50 minutes, including resting time for the cooked meat.

Whipped Goat Cheese

1 cup/225 g creamy fresh goat cheese

¼ cup/60 ml olive oil

4 tsp minced dill, plus 2 or 3 sprigs for garnish

2 tsp grated lemon zest

Lamb

¼ cup/60 ml olive oil, plus more for sautéing the racks

2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 racks of lamb, about 1½ lb/680 g each, trimmed and frenched (see market note)

1½ cups/270 g cherry or grape tomatoes

FOR THE WHIPPED GOAT CHEESE
:

Put the cheese in a medium bowl and, with an electric mixer on medium speed, beat for 30 seconds, then gradually, a little at a time, beat in the olive oil. Stir in the dill and lemon zest. The mixture should be light and fluffy. (This can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

FOR THE LAMB
:

1.
Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, 1 tsp salt, and 1½ tsp pepper in a shallow nonreactive pan. Add the lamb racks, turning to coat well. Marinate the lamb at room temperature, turning the racks occasionally, for 45 minutes. (If you want to marinate the lamb longer, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 hours. Bring to room temperature 30 min-utes before cooking.)

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C/gas 7.

3.
Remove the lamb from the marinade and salt and pepper each rack on both sides. Add enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom of a large, heavy, flameproof roasting pan/tray, and place it over 1 or 2 burners set on medium-high heat. When hot, add 1 lamb rack, rounded-side down, to the pan and brown on that side only, for about 3 minutes. Remove and repeat with the remaining rack, adding more oil if needed. Pour out any drippings in the pan. Let racks rest until cool enough to handle, for 10 minutes. Arrange the racks in the roasting pan/tray facing each other with bone ends pointing up, browned-sides out, and bones intertwined. Roast until a thermometer inserted into the center of the lamb reads 130°F/55°C for medium-rare, for about 20 minutes.

4.
Remove the racks to a platter with bones intertwined, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 15 minutes. Retain the oven temperature and add the tomatoes to the roasting pan/tray. Return the pan to the oven and roast the tomatoes until just hot and starting to shrink, for about 5 minutes.

5.
Garnish the racks with tomatoes, and serve them with a bowl of the Whipped Goat Cheese. Slice into chops and spoon the cheese atop each chop.

SIDES
: Golden Potato Gratin and sautéed zucchini/courgette or blanched tender green beans could round out the menu.

LEFTOVER TIP
: If you have any Whipped Goat Cheese left, it makes a great spread for a sandwich or a good topping for toasted pita wedges served as appetizers.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask the butcher to french the racks, which means that the meat between the rib bones is removed. Also, a thin layer of fat should cover the ribs to keep them moist as they roast, but other excess fat should be trimmed.

You won’t find this roast waiting in the packaged meats section of your supermarket; a boneless top loin is a specialty cut that you will need to order from your butcher. Although it comes with a noticeable price tag, there is absolutely no waste in this tender, delicious cut. The best way to cook this veal roast is simply, as in the following recipe, where it is studded with garlic, then browned and placed in the oven for about 40 minutes. The exceptionally flavorful Tarragon-Mustard Butter is used to baste the veal while it roasts and as a garnish for the beautiful, warm slices.

Serves 5 to 6

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes, including making the Tarragon-Mustard Butter

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 30 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

Tarragon-Mustard Butter

1 boneless top loin veal roast, 2 to 2½ lb/910 g to 1.2 kg (see market note)

2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and cut into thin slivers

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp olive oil, plus more as needed

1.
Put half of the Tarragon-Mustard Butter in a small, shallow bowl to serve with the cooked roast; cover and leave at room temperature.

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

3.
Pat the veal dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Using a sharp paring knife, make slits all over the entire surface of the roast, and insert the garlic slivers. Season the roast generously with salt and pepper.

4.
Heat the oil in a medium, heavy roasting pan/tray set over 1 to 2 burners at medium-high heat until hot. Add the veal and brown on all sides, for 4 to 5 minutes; add more oil if necessary. Spoon off and discard any excess fat in the roasting pan/tray. Brush the roast on the top and sides with a generous tablespoon of Tarragon-Mustard Butter.

5.
Roast the veal until a thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 135 to 140°F/57 to 60°C, for 30 to 40 minutes. Baste the roast with a tablespoon of the butter every 10 minutes. When done, brush meat with any remaining basting butter, and then transfer the roast to a cutting board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 15 minutes.

6.
Cut the roast into slices ½ in/12 mm thick and arrange them overlapping on a serving platter. Serve the warm veal slices topped with dollops of the reserved butter.

SIDES
: Sautéed Spinach with Blue Cheese and Hazelnuts and buttered new potatoes would make delectable accompaniments for this roast, or serve it with the Golden Potato Gratin and roasted or blanched asparagus.

LEFTOVER TIP
: This sliced veal is superb in a sandwich. Top good whole-wheat bread with veal, sliced tomatoes, and creamy goat cheese.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask your butcher for a boneless top loin veal roast with a thin layer of fat on top and have it tied. The roast will be long and slender in shape, about 10 in/25 cm long by 3 in/7.5 cm in diameter, depending on how the butcher cuts it.

This boneless top round roast (cut from the same part of the veal used for scaloppine) is a special order, but definitely worth the effort. The meat is studded with slivered dark olives and garlic, and then roasted and chilled. The cold veal slices, topped with a piquant Tomato-Olive Relish, make a stunning centerpiece for warm-weather meals. Besides its great look and taste, this roast has another important advantage. There’s absolutely no last-minute work, since both the veal and the relish are prepared well in advance.

Serves 6

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 3 to 4 hours, including resting and chilling time for the cooked meat

One 2-lb/920-g boneless top round veal roast, tied

¼ cup/40 g pitted and slivered kalamata olives

2 large garlic cloves, cut into thin slivers

Olive oil for coating the roasting pan/tray

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup/240 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed

1 cup/240 ml dry white wine, plus more as needed

Juice of ½ lemon

Tomato-Olive Relish

Fresh basil sprigs for garnish

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

2.
Using a sharp paring knife, make slits all over the entire surface of the roast and insert the olive and garlic slivers.

3.
Generously coat a large, flameproof roasting pan/tray with oil. Place over 1 to 2 burners and heat over medium-high heat. Add the roast and brown well on all sides, for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the roast, salt and pepper it well, and place it on a rack in the same roasting pan/tray.

4.
Place the veal in the oven and roast it for 15 minutes. Then, combine the broth and wine and baste the roast with ½ cup/120 ml of this mixture. Roast the veal for 15 minutes more and baste with another ½ cup/120 ml of the broth-wine mixture and pour the lemon juice over the meat.

5.
Continue to roast the veal until a thermometer inserted into the center of the roast registers 130 to 135°F/55 to 57°C for medium, for about 45 minutes more, basting every 15 minutes with ½ cup/120 ml of the broth-wine mixture. (If necessary use equal amounts of extra broth and wine.) Remove the roast to a platter. Cool it to room temperature, and then cover and refrigerate until cold, for 1 to 2 hours. (The roast can be prepared 1 day ahead.)

6.
To serve, slice the cold roast into thin slices (
¹
/
₈
- to ¼-in/3- to 6-mm thick). Arrange the veal in overlapping slices on a platter and spoon some Tomato-Olive Relish down the center. Garnish with basil sprigs. Pass the remaining relish in a bowl.

SIDES
: Make a salad of tender green beans and thinly sliced fennel tossed in lemon juice and olive oil and seasoned with plenty of black pepper. A baguette or a good peasant country loaf could complete the meal.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Extra sliced veal and relish can be paired for a great sandwich. Pack them in a pita pocket or mound open-faced on a baguette slice and sprinkle with crumbled feta.