Sunday Roasts (12 page)

Because all of us succumb to those little supermarket rotisserie chickens from time to time, we need to be reminded of just how good a homemade version can be. This bistro-style roast chicken, a big bird that you slather with flavorful butter and baste frequently, is not likely to disappoint. A trinity of herbs--parsley, rosemary, and thyme--and some crushed fennel seeds season the butter, which is used to baste the chicken, as well as the onion wedges and garlic cloves that roast along with it. To gild the lily (or the bird in this case!), there’s a rich sauce prepared with the pan drippings.

Serves 6

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, 35 minutes, including resting time for the chicken

8 tbsp/115 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley, plus 3 sprigs

1 tbsp minced fresh rosemary, plus 3 sprigs

1 tbsp minced fresh thyme, plus 3 sprigs

¼ tsp fennel seeds, crushed

Kosher salt

1 roasting chicken, 6 to 7 lb/2.7 to 3.2 kg, with neck and giblets removed and discarded or saved for another use

Freshly ground black pepper

3 medium onions, peeled and quartered lengthwise without removing root ends

14 medium garlic cloves, peeled

1 cup/240 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

½ cup/120 ml dry white wine

1½ tbsp all-purpose flour/plain flour

1.
Combine the butter, minced parsley, minced rosemary, minced thyme, fennel seeds, and ½ tsp salt in a bowl. Remove 1 tbsp of this mixture and reserve for the sauce. (The butter can be made 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes or longer to soften before using.)

2.
Arrange a rack at lower position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

3.
Rinse the chicken and pat dry. Season the cavity with salt and pepper, then fill it with the parsley, rosemary, and thyme sprigs. Slide your fingers under the skin of the breast and the upper part of the legs to loosen. Spread 3 tbsp of the herb butter under the skin covering the breast and upper leg meat.

4.
Place the chicken on an adjustable rack in a large, flameproof roasting pan/tray. Tie the legs together so that the chicken will hold its shape. Scatter the onion wedges around the chicken; brush the chicken skin and dot the onions with 2 tbsp of the herb butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

5.
Roast the bird for 30 minutes, then remove the pan and stir the onions. Scatter the garlic cloves around the chicken. Brush the chicken, onions, and garlic with 1 tbsp of the herb butter.

6.
Roast the chicken and vegetables for 30 minutes more. Brush the remaining herb butter over the chicken and vegetables.

7.
Continue to roast until the chicken is golden and the juices run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pierced with a knife, for about 30 minutes longer. A thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh should register 175 to 180°F/80 to 82°C.

8.
Lift the chicken with a long-handled wooden spoon and tilt slightly, emptying any juice from the cavity into the pan. Transfer the chicken to a platter and surround with the onions and garlic. Tent loosely with foil and let rest for 15 minutes while you prepare the sauce.

9.
Pour the pan juices into a large glass measuring cup; spoon off any fat from the top and discard. Set the roasting pan/tray over 1 or 2 burners at medium-high heat. Add the broth and wine and, with a wire whisk, scrape up any browned bits into the liquids. Add the pan juices from the measuring cup and bring the mixture to a simmer. Blend the reserved tablespoon of herb butter and the flour in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. Whisk the paste into the liquids and simmer the sauce until slightly thickened, for 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

10.
Serve the chicken with a bowl of the sauce.

SIDES
: Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes, either the basic recipe or the Buttermilk–Country Mustard variation , and 5-Minute Roasted Sugar Snap Peas would make fine side dishes.

LEFTOVER TIPS
: There are countless ways to use leftover Bistro Roast Chicken. You can cut it into chunks and use it in pot pies, adding any leftover sauce to the filling. For a great salad, combine julienned slices of the chicken, sliced Granny Smith apples, and baby spinach, then toss in a mustard vinaigrette. Garnish with some crumbled bacon and shaved white cheddar.

A celestial trio of Italian ingredients—dried figs, sliced prosciutto, and creamy Gorgonzola—makes an irresistible filling for boneless chicken breasts. Once stuffed and skewered, the breasts are pan-seared, then quickly roasted until golden brown. A glaze made with honey and balsamic vinegar gives the chicken a polished look and complements the distinctive flavors of the stuffing.

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 40 minutes

MATERIALS
: Short wooden skewers or sturdy toothpicks, soaked in water for 30 minutes

4 large, boneless skinless chicken breast halves, 7 to 8 oz/200 to 225 g each

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 thin slices prosciutto (4 oz/120 g)

One 5-oz/145-g wedge Gorgonzola, crumbled

½ cup/80 g thinly sliced dried figs, preferably Black Mission

1½ tbsp olive oil

½ cup/120 ml balsamic vinegar

¼ cup/60 ml honey

2 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley

Fleur de sel

1.
Using a very sharp knife held parallel to the work surface, make a horizontal slit through a chicken breast, stopping just short of cutting it in half, and open the breast up like a book. Repeat with the remaining breasts. Cover the breasts with plastic wrap/cling film and pound until they’re ¼ in/6 mm thick, then salt and pepper them.

2.
Cover half of each breast with 2 prosciutto slices, and then divide the cheese evenly over the prosciutto. Divide the figs evenly and place over the cheese on the breasts. Close each breast and secure each with 2 or 3 wooden skewers. Salt and pepper the breasts on both sides. (The chicken breasts can be prepared 2 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

3.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

4.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, ovenproof frying pan set over medium heat. When hot, add the breasts and cook for 1 minute per side. Place the pan in the oven and roast until the chicken is very tender and the juices run clear when pierced with a knife, for 12 to 15 minutes, turning once after 6 minutes.

5.
Using oven mitts, remove the frying pan from the oven and transfer the breasts to a carving board. Tent them loosely with foil.

6.
Add the balsamic vinegar and honey to the frying pan and, again using mitts, since the handle will be quite hot, place the pan over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the mixture has reduced to ½ cup/120 ml, for about 5 minutes.

7.
To serve, use a dish/tea towel or mitts to remove the skewers or toothpicks and cut each breast crosswise on the diagonal into slices 1 in/2.5 cm thick. Arrange the slices on a platter, slightly overlapping. Drizzle with some sauce and garnish with a sprinkle of parsley and fleur de sel.

SIDES
: Serve this chicken with buttered linguine or orzo and with tender green beans sprinkled with toasted pine nuts.

LEFTOVER TIP
. For lunch or a light supper, garnish a mixed greens salad tossed in a balsamic vinaigrette with cold slices of the chicken and enjoy with some crusty peasant bread.

Many cooks overlook dark-fleshed thighs and legs in favor of their white-meat counterparts, breasts and wings. The truth is that thighs and legs are both moist and flavorful and can easily take center stage. In the following dish, chicken quarters (both legs and thighs) are roasted slowly in an aromatic mix of green olives, lemon, and white wine until they are golden brown, juicy, and tender. For serving, the chicken is showered with crumbled feta.

Serves 6

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 30 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: about 1 hour, 45 minutes

3 large, thick-skinned lemons

6 chicken leg-and-thigh quarters with skin left on, about 3½ lb/1.6 kg total (see market note)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 to 4 tbsp/45 to 60 ml olive oil

¾ cup/75 g chopped shallots (2 to 3 large shallots)

6 tbsp/12 g minced flat-leaf parsley

4 tsp minced garlic

2 tsp dried oregano

1¼ cups/300 ml dry white wine

1 cup/175 g green Mediterranean olives, pitted or unpitted (see market note)

¾ to 1 cup/180 to 240 ml chicken broth

½ cup/80 g crumbled feta cheese

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C/gas 5.

2.
Zest 2 of the lemons to yield 2 tbsp zest, and juice to yield ¼ cup/60 ml juice. Cut the third lemon into 6 wedges for the garnish.

3.
Pat the chicken quarters dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Trim and discard any excess fat or dangling skin. Salt and pepper the chicken generously on both sides. Place an extra-large ovenproof frying pan (with a lid; see cooking tip) over medium-high heat with enough oil to coat the bottom (3 to 4 tbsp). When the oil is very hot but not smoking, add the chicken pieces in a single layer. Brown well on all sides, turning several times, for about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the chicken to a side dish. Reserve 4 tbsp/60 ml of the oil in the frying pan and discard the rest (or add more oil to make 4 tbsp/60 ml if necessary).

4.
Return the pan to the stove over low heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until just softened but not browned, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add half of the parsley, the garlic, and the oregano, and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the lemon zest and juice, wine, and olives, and then return the chicken to the pan.

5.
Bring the mixture to a simmer, then cover the frying pan and place it in the oven. Roast until the chicken is very tender when pierced with a knife, for 45 to 50 minutes, then remove the lid and roast for 5 to 10 minutes longer to let the juices reduce slightly. Watch carefully so that the juices do not evaporate completely.

6.
Remove the chicken to a platter; tent loosely with foil and set aside. Add ¾ cup/180 ml broth to the pan and heat until it is warm. The mixture should have a very thin, sauce-like consistency. If too thick, add an additional ¼ cup/60 ml broth. (The chicken can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat, covered, in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 oven until hot, 15 minutes or longer, adding extra broth if needed.)

7.
To serve, pour the juices in the pan over the chicken. Sprinkle with feta cheese and with the remaining parsley, and garnish with the lemon wedges.

SIDES
: This chicken, which is definitely Mediterranean in character, would be delicious served with Zucchini and Tomato Gratin and with a bowl of buttered couscous or orzo.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Rewarm leftover chicken and, for a great lunch or light supper, serve it with a mixed greens salad dressed in lemon and olive oil. Serve with a basket of toasted pitas.

MARKET NOTES
: If you can’t find whole chicken legs (that is, the leg and thigh attached together), you can use six thighs and six legs.

Picholine or Lucques olives are good green French olives that work well in this recipe.

COOKING TIP
: If you do not have an extra-large frying pan, you can use a flameproof roasting pan/tray covered with a double thickness of foil.

As this turkey roasts to a rich golden brown, it fills the kitchen with the enticing aroma of apples and leeks, which roast along with it. Cider, used to baste the bird and also in the scrumptious sauce, adds a fresh, fruity accent to this roasted fowl. The recipe calls for a 14-lb/6.3-kg bird, perfect for serving eight with leftovers.

Serves 8

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 4 hours, 10 minutes, including resting time for the turkey

MATERIALS
: Kitchen twine

One 13- to14-lb/5.9- to 6.3-kg turkey, rinsed and patted dry

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups/160 g chopped leeks, white and light green parts only (3 to 4 leeks)

2 small Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-in/12-mm dice

4 fresh sage sprigs, plus extra sprigs for garnish

4 fresh thyme sprigs, plus extra sprigs for garnish

12 tbsp/170 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tbsp dried sage leaves

1 tbsp dried thyme leaves

2½ cups/600 ml fresh apple cider

1¼ cups/300 ml dry white wine

2 to 3 tbsp flour

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 325°F/165°C/gas 3.

2.
Season the cavity of the turkey generously with salt and pepper. Combine the leeks and apples in a medium bowl, and place 1 cup/100 g of this mixture in the cavity along with 4 sage and 4 thyme sprigs.

3.
In a medium bowl, mix together the butter, dried sage, dried thyme, 1½ tsp salt, and 1 tsp pepper until well blended. Reserve 2 tbsp of this butter for the sauce and set aside. Use 4 tbsp/55 g of the remaining herb butter and rub it over the surface of the turkey. Truss the turkey: Use a long piece of kitchen twine and tie the legs together, slightly overlapping, then bring the string around the sides of the bird, pulling the wings toward the body, and tie the twine to secure (see cooking tip).

4.
Place the turkey on a rack set in a large flameproof roasting pan/tray. Spread the remaining leeks and apples on the bottom of the pan. Combine the cider and white wine and reserve 1½ cups/360 ml of this mixture for the sauce; pour 1/3 cup/75 ml of the remaining cider mixture over the turkey.

5.
Roast the turkey until golden brown and a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 180°F/82°C, basting every 30 minutes with 1/3 cup/75 ml of the cider mixture and 1 tbsp of the herb butter, for about
3 hours and 10 minutes or longer. Watch carefully and if the turkey begins to brown too much, cover it loosely with foil. When done, remove the turkey to a platter and tent it loosely with foil. Let rest for 30 minutes while you prepare the sauce.

6.
Drain the liquids from the roasting pan/tray into a bowl, pressing down hard on the roasted leeks and apples to release all the juices; discard the solids. Skim off and discard any fat from the drippings and return the drained juices to the pan. Add the reserved cider mixture and any leftover cider mixture from basting to the pan and place it over 2 burners set on medium-high heat. Using a whisk, scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of pan into the liquids. Cook, whisking often, until the liquids have reduced by about a third, for 5 minutes.

7.
Combine the reserved 2 tbsp herb butter and any butter left over from basting with 2 tbsp of flour and blend with a fork to make a paste (if you want the sauce to be thicker, increase the flour to 3 tbsp). Whisk the butter-flour mixture into the pan a little at a time until the sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon, for 5 to 6 minutes. Season the sauce with salt if needed and transfer it to a serving bowl.

8.
To serve, remove and discard the twine and the ingredients from the cavity. Garnish the turkey with bouquets of sage and thyme sprigs. Pass the sauce on the side.

SIDES
: Sourdough Dressing with Roasted Root Vegetables or Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes Buttermilk–Country Mustard variation , Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots , and Cranberry and Dried Cherry Chutney would make mouthwatering accompaniments.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Use this leftover turkey, with its slight hint of sweetness, for sandwiches made with whole-wheat bread, lots of Dijon mustard, farmhouse cheddar, and a good dollop of cranberry chutney or sauce.

COOKING TIP
: The reason a turkey is trussed is to help it keep its shape and ensure that it roasts evenly.