Sunday Roasts (16 page)

On my sole visit to Japan, I was determined to visit Tsukiji, the celebrated fish market in the center of Tokyo. I rose very early in the morning and walked in the dark, accompanied by my half-asleep husband, from our hotel to the market. As we arrived, just in time, I heard the bell ring for the tuna auction. I was stunned by the size of the tuna on display: They were enormous, weighing in at hundreds of pounds. The amount of tuna called for in this dish is a mere fraction of those huge fish, but the recipe’s Japanese accents bring back memories of that remarkable visit. Cubes of tuna are marinated in soy, and then skewered with pickled ginger before being quickly roasted. A bowl of peppery wasabi-scented mayonnaise accompanies the fish.

Serves 4

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour

MATERIALS
: Four 10-in/25-cm (or longer) metal skewers, or wooden skewers that have been soaked in water for 30 minutes

Wasabi Mayo

2 tbsp wasabi powder (available at many supermarkets in the Asian food section)

½ cup/120 ml good-quality mayonnaise

Tuna

1¼ lb/570 g fresh boneless tuna

2½ tbsp soy sauce

2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper

1 small jar pickled ginger

Canola oil for greasing the baking sheet/tray

A bunch of watercress

FOR THE WASABI MAYO
:

Use a fork to mix together the wasabi powder and 1 tbsp water in a small bowl. Stir in the mayonnaise. (The Wasabi Mayo can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before using.)

FOR THE TUNA
:

1.
Cut the tuna into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes, and then place them in a shallow dish and toss with the soy sauce. Marinate at cool room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes, turning once or twice. Remove the cubes and pat dry. Place the tuna in another bowl and toss with the pepper to coat well.

2.
Cut the pickled ginger into 20 to 24 ribbons that are 2 to 3 in/5 to 7.5 cm long.

3.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8. Line a baking sheet/tray with foil and oil it generously.

4.
Skewer the tuna cubes alternately with the pickled ginger. You should get six or more cubes per skewer. Arrange the skewers on the baking sheet/tray and roast for about 4 minutes for medium-rare in the center (see cooking tip).

5.
Serve each skewer on a dinner plate on a bed of watercress. Pass a bowl of Wasabi Mayo.

SIDES
: 5-Minute Roasted Sugar Snap Peas and white rice tossed with minced chives, toasted sesame seeds, and a little sesame oil would make fine sides.

LEFTOVER TIP
: This tuna is best cooked and eaten immediately, but any remaining cubes are good served cold and topped with dollops of wasabi mayo as an appetizer.

Coral-hued salmon resting upon a verdant field of spring peas is a tempting sight. This visually impressive dish looks sophisticated, but is actually quite easy to assemble. Both the salmon and the peas are seasoned with a flavorful mixture of parsley, butter, shallots, and lemon that are whizzed together in a food processor. The fillets need less than fifteen minutes of roasting time, and while they are in the oven, the peas can be quickly blanched.

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 40 minutes, including roasting the salmon

5 tbsp/70 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp chopped shallots

1 tsp minced garlic

1 tsp grated lemon zest, plus thin lemon slices for garnish (optional)

Kosher salt

Olive oil for greasing the baking sheet/tray

4 salmon fillets, about 6 oz/170 g each and ¾ in/2 cm thick

6 tsp fresh lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cups/455 g fresh peas or a 16-oz/455-g bag frozen peas, defrosted

Parsley or watercress sprigs for garnish

1.
Combine the butter, parsley, shallots, garlic, lemon zest, and ¼ tsp salt in a food processor; pulse to combine, for about 30 seconds. (The butter mixture can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8. Line a rimmed baking sheet/tray with foil and oil well.

3.
Place the salmon fillets, skin-side down, on the baking sheet/tray, and sprinkle each one with 1½ tsp lemon juice and season generously with salt and pepper. Let rest for 10 minutes.

4.
Reserve 3 tbsp of the butter mixture for seasoning the peas. With a metal spatula or table knife, spread the remaining butter evenly over the tops of the fillets. Roast the salmon until the flesh flakes easily when pierced with a knife and is opaque, for about 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.

5.
While the salmon is roasting, bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tsp salt and the peas and cook until the peas are just tender, for 3 to 4 minutes for fresh and for 2 minutes for frozen. Drain the peas and return them to the pot. Toss them with the reserved 3 tbsp butter and season with salt.

6.
To serve, spread the peas on a platter and arrange the salmon on top. Garnish each fillet with a parsley or watercress sprig and, if desired, with a lemon slice.

SIDES
: Serve baby red potatoes sprinkled with sea salt or basmati rice scented lightly with saffron. To complete the menu, add a salad of mixed greens, thinly sliced cucumbers, and sweet red onion tossed in a vinaigrette.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Flake any remaining salmon and combine with leftover peas, some chopped green/spring onions, and goat cheese; use as the filling for an omelet.

This is an unusual and impressive way to serve salmon. Instead of using individual-sized portions, a salmon fillet is roasted whole, and then garnished with a fresh orange and ginger relish. Because the salmon is marinated for several hours before it goes into the oven, the fish is moist and well seasoned when done.

Serves 6 to 8

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes, including making the Orange-Ginger Relish

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 3 to 5 hours depending on how long the fish is marinated

1/3 cup/75 ml dry white wine

1/3 cup/75 ml fresh orange juice

2½ tbsp soy sauce

One 2½-lb/1.2-kg salmon fillet half, about 1 in/2.5 cm thick in the center section

Vegetable oil for greasing the baking sheet/tray

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Orange-Ginger Relish

1.
In a small bowl, whisk together the wine, orange juice, and soy sauce and pour into a 9-by-13-by-2-in/33-cm-by-23-cm-by-5 cm baking dish. Carefully lay the salmon, skin-side up, in the dish. Cover with plastic wrap/cling film and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 4 hours. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before roasting.

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

3.
Line a heavy, rimmed baking sheet/tray with foil and brush generously with oil. Remove the fish from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Brush the salmon skin with oil and arrange skin-side down on the baking sheet/tray. (If the salmon is longer than your baking sheet/tray, arrange it on the diagonal.) Salt and pepper the fillet.

4.
Roast the salmon until the flesh is opaque in the center, for about 20 minutes. Remove the baking sheet/tray from the oven, and use a large metal spatula to loosen the salmon from the foil. Using the foil as an aid and wearing oven mitts, carefully lift the salmon from the baking sheet/tray and let it slide from the foil onto a serving platter.

5.
To serve, mound some Orange-Ginger Relish down the center along the length of the salmon and pass the remaining relish alongside.

SIDES
: Buttered basmati rice sprinkled with minced chives and 5-Minute Roasted Sugar Snap Peas would make ideal sides to this main course. Or serve the salmon with roasted asparagus and buttered couscous.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Flake any remaining salmon and add to a watercress and cucumber salad tossed in a white wine vinaigrette.

The creation of gifted chef Deborah Snow of the Blue Heron Restaurant in Sunderland, Massachusetts, this is a glorious dish to serve when summer herbs and tomatoes are in season. Striped bass is roasted simply with lemon juice and olive oil, then dressed up with a multihued cherry tomato salad. A bowl of easy-to-make aioli complements this fish beautifully. You can serve the fish straight from the oven or offer it at room temperature, with equally tempting results.

Serves 6

COST
: Moderate to Splurge, depending on the season

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour

Tomato Salad

2 cups/345 g cherry or grape tomatoes (see market note)

½ cup/65 g chopped or thinly sliced red onion

1 tsp minced garlic

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

½ tsp kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp minced or 2 tbsp torn fresh basil

1 tbsp minced or 2 tbsp torn fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tbsp minced or 2 tbsp torn fresh mint

2 tsp minced or 1½ tbsp torn cilantro/fresh coriander

Striped Bass

1½ tbsp olive oil, plus more for greasing the baking sheet/tray and the fish

1 boneless striped bass fillet, 2 to 2½ lb/910 g to 1.2 kg (see market note)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1½ tbsp fresh lemon juice

1 tbsp dry white wine

Aioli

FOR THE TOMATO SALAD
:

Combine the tomatoes, onion, and garlic in a large mixing bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and several grinds of pepper. Pour over the tomatoes and mix. (The salad can be prepared to this point 2 hours ahead; leave uncovered at room temperature. The herbs are added right before serving.)

FOR THE STRIPED BASS
:

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

2.
Line a rimmed baking sheet/tray with foil and oil it generously. Brush the skin side of the fillet with oil and place the fish, skin-side down, on the baking sheet/tray. Season the fish with salt and pepper, then drizzle with the lemon juice and wine, and finally with the 1½ tbsp olive oil. Roast the fish until the flesh is opaque and flakes easily, for about 20 minutes.

3.
While the fish is in the oven, stir the basil, parsley, mint, and cilantro into the tomato salad and toss to mix well.

4.
Using two metal spatulas, carefully transfer the striped bass to a large platter. Spoon the tomato salad on top. Serve warm or at room temperature with a bowl of aioli.

SIDES
: Tender green beans seasoned with sea salt, and a crusty baguette or peasant loaf would complete this menu.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Extra fish is good served at room temperature with a dollop of aioli for a light lunch.

MARKET NOTES
: You can use any small colorful tomatoes, preferably not more than about 2 in/5 cm in diameter. I typically buy red, yellow, and orange cherry tomatoes and add some small green, orange, or red heirlooms. You can leave the tomatoes whole or halve them.

If you can’t find striped bass, you can substitute halibut steaks or swordfish.