Sunday Roasts (11 page)

My grandparents lived just north of New Orleans, so I visited the Big Easy often as a youngster. Later I spent my college years there. If you stay for any time at all in this unique American city, you’ll fall in love with the vibrant flavors of its cuisine. In these luscious roasted veal chops, spicy andouille sausage and a splash of Tabasco sauce lend a New Orleans taste to the stuffing.

Serves 4

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes, including making the fresh bread crumbs

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: About 50 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

MATERIALS
: Short wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes (see cooking tip)

1½ tbsp olive oil, plus more as needed

1½ tbsp unsalted butter

2 oz/55 g andouille sausage, cut into ¼-in/6-mm dice

¼ cup/30 g chopped green/spring onions, including 2 in/5 cm of green stems

1½ tsp finely minced garlic

2 packed cups (2 oz/55 g) baby spinach, coarsely chopped

¼ tsp hot sauce

1 cup/55 g fresh sourdough bread crumbs (see cooking tip)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 veal rib chops, 10 to 12 oz/280 to 340 g each, and 1¼ to 1½ in/3 to 4 cm thick, trimmed of excess fat

1.
In a medium, heavy frying pan set over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil and butter until the butter has melted. Add the andouille sausage and sauté, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the green/spring onions and garlic and sauté, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the spinach and hot sauce and cook, stirring, until the spinach has wilted, for about 2 minutes. Stir in the bread crumbs and cook until they are golden, for about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and cool completely.

2.
Lay a veal chop on a clean work surface. Using a sharp knife, cut horizontally, making a pocket from the outside edge of the meat all the way to the bone and along the entire length of the chop. Repeat with the remaining chops. Stuff each chop with 2 to 3 tbsp of the stuffing (you may have some stuffing left over) and close the chops with wooden skewers. Salt and pepper the chops on both sides. (The chops can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

3.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

4.
Heat enough oil to generously coat the bottom of a large, ovenproof frying pan and place over medium-high heat. When oil is very hot, add the chops and sear for 2 minutes. Turn and sear for 1 minute on the other side. Transfer the frying pan to the oven and roast until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chops registers 135°F/57°C, for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes. Using mitts or a dish/tea towel so that you do not burn your fingers, carefully pull out and discard the skewers.

5.
Serve the chops with any juices in the pan drizzled over them.

SIDES
: Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots , and a salad of mixed greens dressed in lemon and olive oil would make fine garnishes to these rich chops.

LEFTOVER TIP
: If you have any extra stuffing, fill scooped-out tomato halves with it. Brush the tomatoes with olive oil and bake in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 oven until tomatoes are tender and stuffing is warm, about 20 minutes.

COOKING TIP
: Use the shortest wooden skewers you can find for securing the stuffing in the chops. If you only have long ones, use kitchen scissors to snip off several inches so that they are about 6 in/15 cm. Even though the skewers will protrude awkwardly when used to close the chops, you can still easily sear the veal.

These veal shanks, prepared ossobuco style, are cut crosswise into round pieces, and then cooked in an aromatic mixture of vegetables, broth, and wine. In this version, the veal simmers in the oven instead of on the stovetop, and, when done, the tender shanks are served with buttered fettuccine in place of traditional risotto. This dish improves in flavor when prepared in advance, so there’s no last-minute angst. At serving time, you simply reheat the veal in its sauce, cook the pasta, and arrange both on a platter.

Serves 6

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: About 3 hours

6 veal shanks, cut about 1 to 1¼ in/2.5 to 3 cm thick (4 lb/1.8 kg total)

Kosher salt

4 tbsp/60 ml olive oil

4 cups/500 g chopped onion

4 medium carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into slices ½ in/12 mm thick

4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Two 28-oz/795-g cans Italian-style tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped

4 tsp dried sage leaves, crumbled (not powdered sage)

2 bay leaves, broken in half

3 cups/720 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 cup/240 ml dry red wine

1 to 1¼ lb/455 to 570 g fresh or dried fettuccine

1½ tbsp unsalted butter

2 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

2.
Pat the veal shanks dry and season generously with salt on both sides. Heat the oil in an extra-large, deep-sided frying pan (with a lid) over medium-high heat. (If you don’t have a frying pan large enough to fit all of the veal shanks and then the vegetables, use a large, flameproof roasting pan/tray.) When the oil is hot, add the veal and brown well, for 4 minutes per side. Remove the veal to a platter. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic to the pan. Sauté the vegetables, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Return the veal to the pan along with any juices that have collected on the platter. Add the tomatoes, sage, bay leaves, 2 tsp salt, broth, and wine.

3.
Bring this mixture to a simmer, then cover and place it in the oven. (If using a roasting pan/tray, cover tightly with a double thickness of foil.) Roast until the meat is very tender, for about 2 hours. (The veal can be prepared 2 days ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat covered in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 preheated oven until hot, for about 25 minutes.)

4.
When the veal has finished roasting, return the frying pan with the shanks to the stovetop and set over medium-high heat. Cook, uncovered, until the liquids have reduced and thickened slightly, for 5 to 10 minutes or longer. Cover to keep warm while you prepare the pasta.

5.
Cook the fettuccine in a large pot of boiling salted water until it is tender, according to the package directions, usually for about 5 minutes for fresh or 12 minutes for dried. Drain, toss with butter, and season with salt.

6.
To serve, mound the pasta on a platter and top with veal shanks. Nap both the veal and pasta with sauce and sprinkle with parsley.

SIDES
: A spinach or arugula/rocket salad tossed in lemon juice and olive oil and a loaf of ciabatta for sopping up the delicious sauce are all you need.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Any veal and pasta that remains can be quickly reheated in a microwave or in a frying pan set over medium heat on the stove.

Whether it’s the diminutive Cornish hen fit for a single diner or a plump turkey for fifteen-plus people, roasted poultry is easy to prepare and irresistible. With a little bit of care, you can transform whole birds as well as individual pieces into lusciously brown, succulent, and tender dishes.

The most important thing to remember is that poultry needs to be kept moist as it roasts so that it doesn’t lose its natural juices. That’s why so many of the recipes in this chapter call for brushing birds with butter or oil or even wrapping them in bacon before they go into the oven. Basting birds with additional butter or with liquids such as wine and broth as they cook will also ensure that they don’t end up with parched skin. Finally, poultry needs to be fully cooked (no medium-rare here!), and the best test for doneness is to plunge an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of a thigh and look for 170 to 180°F/77 to 82°C.

Every culture seems to have a favorite recipe for chicken or some other poultry, and you’ll find recipes with flavors from around the globe on the following pages. Bistro Roast Chicken with Garlic, Onions, and Herbs pays homage to the French, who know how to roast chickens to perfection. Chicken Quarters Roasted with Lemons and Green Olives has Greek roots, while a Turkey Breast with Cremini, Porcini, and Pancetta Stuffing is redolent of the Italian pantry.

Whatever the occasion, you’ll find a recipe for a glorious roasted bird in this chapter. For a simple family meal, try the quick Chicken Breasts Stuffed with Figs, Prosciutto, and Gorgonzola. With just a little more time, you can dazzle your clan with the Chipotle-Rubbed Turkey Breast with Fresh Corn Salsa. For Thanksgiving or Christmas celebrations, Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey and “Never Fail” Roast Turkey with Shallot Pan Gravy are winners. Enjoy!